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BTW, I think a lot of trouble arises from the idea of "HDMI passthrough". I have an AV receiver which even in standby mode passes the last connected source to the projector. I wonder if this might be related to your problem, ie the power-saving settings on the PC?

I bought it let say locally - 300 km. I managed to connect it to PC and now I am able to download music via webminidisc pro.

Thanks. I disconnected other devices from their respective HDMI ports as an experiment. Unfortunately that did not help. Yes, I am beginning to accept that that’s the way things are😖

I have way too much MD "junk" already. I assume you found it on yahoo.jp, there is another one for sale right now.

Without service manual. Seems it wasn't too complicated although the unit itself is tightly packed. I like this CMT-AH10 and sounds great. I have no remote control but AIWA ADN-1 remote covers most of the operations. If anyone is considering purchasing it, it is worth buying.

And they could fix a 19 year old unit? Impressive.

Nothing, I took it to the service center 😉

Hooray! Well done, what did you do exactly to fix it?

It is working now.🙂. Problem was with power supply. When unit was on stand-by pushing any button froze the all.

My recollection/experience is that the effect of enabling the feature(s) which allow something at the other end of the HDMI cable to power on/off a device are fraught with difficulty. Sometimes it works, and if so, leave it, you are lucky. Clearly you hit one of the cases that doesn't work, and should resign yourself to powering the TV and soundbar on and off separately. You might even buy a programmable remote that turns them both on (and off) together.

Hello, After connecting the ARC Ultra to my Sony KD-65X9300D via the HDMI ARC port I find that when I turn of the TV and it’s left in standby for some period e.g. overnight, then the next time I turn the tv on it does a complete reboot. This can take 3-5 mins to complete and is totally annoying. Anyone come across this? Any suggestions on how to config the ARC or the TV? Granted it’s an old model tv, still I don’t see why connecting something to a HDMI port (I have a Pioneer Blu-ray and a no-name internet video receiver connected as well) can cause this problem. The Sony tv performed perfectly before this albeit there were a few hiccups occasionally which simply required powering off and on at the wall to correct. thanks.

Seeing as we don't have a service manual, and looking at the general design, you might start by looking at its predecessors: HCD-M373 (from CMT-M373NT) HCD-MD595 (from CMT-PX3) And numerous others listed here https://forums.sonyinsider.com/files/category/6-bookshelf/ and here https://minidisc.org/part_Bookshelf_Sony.html Maybe the service manuals will give you a clue to how the machine is taken apart (disassembled). In addition, the page at minidisc wiki shows some stuff with the power supply. Maybe you need to figure out if the transformer is working. Kevin.....?

I disassembled unit but had no idea how to remove front panel.

No idea how to do it but as I mentioned before it is possible to turn it on using buttons which then are inactive.

Time to take off the face plate and check the cabling to the front panel.......

Thanks, @sfbp. No, both devices do not even begin to read the discs. I forgot to mention that I do can spot the read laser when looking at the lenses in the dark. Unfortunately, I don't have good units to compare. I also have, of course, removed all grease and regressed everything in the beginning. I have noticed that, when everything's fine, the device should apparently immediately spin up the disc, begin and complete focus search right away and then start reading the disc. The E3 doesn't do that. It spins the disc but then goes "click-clack" moving the lens up and down six times before it gives an "Error". I suspected focus issues, but it passes the focus servo test fine. It does hang on "EF balance", but I am unsure what could be done to clear that up. Of course I fiddled with the FCBIAS and EF BALANCE settings in service mode, but that didn't change anything. Without knowing what precisely an optical block is supposed to do on startup and in what order I don't think this is fixable. Would get a new one in working order, but I would only want to do this if I knew this type of KMS isn't prone to frequent failure.

Yes I've checked Wiki. I have 100V supply. I have no remote. When i plug USB nothing happens. Seems to me some buttons are pressed. I can't turn it off with power button.

Wow, I never saw anything about this unit. I always thought Sony didn't make anything HiMD in a deck/bookshelf except LAM-X1. Did you look in Minidisk Wiki? Do you have the remote? What happens when you plug it into USB? And... are you running on 100V supply?

EF Balance rings a bell in my memory. I would be very careful to check all mechanical movement is unrestricted (prime candidate is congealed/rubberised white silicone grease). I'd also check continuity on the head but it sounds like you are way beyond that. You might investigate what comes right before and right after the EF Balance check step, on a working unit. Can you read a CD (pre-recorded/manufactured)? That is a prerequisite before any writing tests. Maybe you know much more about this than me.....

Hi I bought CMT-AH10 and received it today. I could turn on the device but than all buttons are not active. Unit is in very good shape and was sent fully functional. What to do?

I know that some of Sony's early optical pickups in some portables are particularly problematic, e.g. KMS-190A (MZ-R2). But do we have any reliable knowledge beyond hearsay which ones should clearly be avoided? And: Do we know what types of issues indicate a fully broken pickup? I am asking because I just picked up an MZ-E50 and E3 for cheap and both are (expectedly) broken. The E50's (which apparently does not even have a service manual) sled moves in and out repeatedly before giving "Error" and the E3's KMS-201A lens package moves up and down a number of times before again checking out with an "Error". However, it does pass the focus test fine. In auto-adjustment mode, however, it hangs at "EF balance" test. I was not able to revive any of the two. Are both blocks fully dead? Is any better identification of these issues possible? Should the E3 or E50 be avoided in the first place? How do I know if my block may be resurrected? Thanks!

This video by "Spare Time Repair" popped up in my YouTube feed this morning. Thought it might be of interest to some people here 🙂

I could have replied yesterday but didn't get around to it - the "cradle" is generally the word we use for the charge stand that the entire portable unit is dropped into for easy overnight charging, or in some cases as a dock like you would have for a laptop. The bad news about cradles is two-fold: 1. There are lot of different designs, and only rarely did Sony make several models with the pins on that cradle (and the portable) that were interchangeable 2. The charging (in my experience) tends to be somewhat unreliable, though this is the case (also) with direct charging via a 3V adapter, for instance. Indeed some models ONLY charge with the cradle, which is a real pain. But if you mean the carry-mechanism that slides in and out of a deck, then everything Kevin said is correct.

If you mean the drive in a deck then the same drive is usually used in the same generation of deck. Look at the last two digits per the examples from @BearBoy. But you can’t swap between generations e.g. you can’t put a drive from a 530 into a 520. The drive has the ATRAC chip on it and these chips evolved over the years as the ATRAC coded was revised. Also some machines of the same generation have a variant of the drive which makes them incompatible. For example the ‘pro’ machine MDS-E10 has an MDM7SC drive in it and you can’t swap that for a consumer MDM7A from e.g. an MDS-JE440. Similarly the MXD-D4 high speed dubber uses an MDM7AX2 which supports the high speed dubbing. Again you can’t drop in a ‘vanilla’ MDM7A drive from a 440. If you give a list of your machines we can be more specific on what options you have.

Hi @RomulusXXV. Are you asking about portable recorders or decks? The drive units for the latter are shared among multiple different models (e.g. you can put the drive unit from an MDS-JE480 in an MDS-JE780 or MDS-JB980). I think @kgallen might have produced a list on here at some point.