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Thanks for correcting me, guys. I haven't tried most of this, so kudos to you for chasing it down. I would say that the N910 is built like a tank, all metal, whereas the DN430 is mostly plastic (at least the casing). So the former is a much higher-end item as was reflected in the original price (it's the only one that ever showed up up at my local London Drugs and I thought it was WAY overpriced). As far as 2x vs 4x, I do recall something about how the decks manage copying (eg the MDS-W1) at high speed. They use a higher frequency, doubling the data rate. So if you're trying to do this higher data rate, then probably the cheaper versions of an MD portable had some expensive components compromised (by selection of cheaper ones?). I don't know, but it seems reasonable given that Sony never expected anyone to upload anything from either of these devices. I also recall that there was a problem with NetMD and *writing*. I learned very quickly to record disks from the USB only when there was external 3V power supply. It's supposed to work, but particularly with NetMD all units (including the MZ-N910) used a lot more power, at least transiently when downloading music from the PC to an MD. Great consternation when I got my 6-MD car changer, and was seriously concerned when driving along and a song would literally freeze. This was how i found out the hard way about the NetMD power problem. Disks recorded in real time on a deck never ever had this playback problem. I guess there are limits to our digital mindscape after all.
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I'm fine with the RH1 not doing 4X SP upload, so that's not what I'm trying to achieve. The problem I'm having is that I cannot get the RH1 into Unrestricted HI-MD mode, after following the steps indicated in the Wiki. This is as far as I get: Connect the Hi-MD device to the computer, while it's in MD mode (either with a regular MD inside, which has at least one track, or just set to MD disc mode and without a disc) Connect it to Web Minidisc Pro, as you would do if you wanted to use normal NetMD mode. Open the overflow menu, select Settings, then 'enable homebrew mode shortcuts', then close the Settings (this step needs to be done only once) Open the overflow menu, select Homebrew shortcuts, then 'Switch to HiMD unrestricted mode'* Everything works just fine, until the part that's bolded: When I open the Homebrew shortcuts, the option to switch to HIMD Unrestricted Mode is NOT there. Mind you, I was able to get it working as described when using the browser-based Web Minidisc, exactly as the wiki indicates, so it's not a big loss for me. I'm stumped about the fact that it will work with the browser version of Web Minidisc, but not with Electron. Win some, lose some, I guess. There's another issue I'm having, and want to know the opinion of others who own Net MD machines: When transferring tracks on SP at 4X mode using an MZ-DN430, I get "jittery" sound glitches, but when transferring at 2X, the sound is flawless. This happens on both the web version and Electron WMD, regardless of source format. (I'm using pure WAV and FLAC, by the way.) Has anyone experienced something like this? (I will later upload samples showing what I mean) This doesn't happen with my N910, regardless of application version. Same computer, same disc, same USB cable, same source file, SP 4x transfer. The only thing that changes is the recorder. Could it be that my DN430 is a bit of a dud?
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Having a standard MD in the unit is enough to put it in MD mode and is sufficient for a connection to electron WMD. @Syrius Which of the options are you wanting to use? AFAIK the SP speed upload feature has not been implemented yet for the RH1. However for the 'Strip SCMS' and 'Unprotect all tracks' options, these are found after you have enabled the homebrew shortcuts slider in 'Settings' then 'Enter homebrew mode' -> 'Toolbox':
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but.... the insertion of an old MD does NOT force it permanently into that mode. And I bet that's what is happening, it thinks u want to burn a HiMD format. Do you have an RH10 or some other 1st or second generation HiMD unit to try this with? Failing that you will have to figure out the jog lever presses (assuming that does NOT show up on the remote screen).
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Old-style MD, just as indicated by the Wiki. (I use an SP MD to get it into that mode)
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What disc mode is the RH1 in?
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I'm having trouble getting my RH1 to work. I have installed Zadig, and can use the application (Electron WMD) to do with the RH1 anything I could with a regular NetMD, but cannot seem to get Unrestricted mode to work. I've followed the steps in the WebMD Wiki, up to "Enable Homebrew Shortcuts" but when I open those, I don't get the option to connect to HI-MD unrestricted. Just "Archive Disc" (clickable) with Strip SCMS, Un-protect All Tracks, and Enable SP Upload Speed Up grayed out. What am I doing wrong? EDIT: Made it partially work by using Web Minidisc with Chrome, this allowed me to install the driver through Zadig. However, I still don't get the option to connect to HI-MD unrestricted in Homebrew shortcuts when using Electron WMD, and yes, there is a regular MD with at least one track in the recorder when I try to do this.
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FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
sfbp replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
I looked at the video for replacing the OLED out of interest (mine still works mostly, some problems with jog lever but OLEDs are fine). As long as you can do it without breaking anything (and the guy had clearly bust one of the plastic lugs for the front panel, previously - learning how to do it?) then you get access to the guts of that front panel as well as a chance to re-seat the 2 display ribbon cables. I'm thinking about copying that activity and trying to see if there's anything obviously wrong in there. Has anyone else tried anything like that? My RH1 is perfectly fine for uploads, which is the only reason I ever use it. -
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FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
BearBoy replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
@Syrius - good to hear you've got it, at least partially, working again 👍 -
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Hot on the heels of the replacement screens for the MZ-RH1/MZ-M200, MDGadgetry are taking pre-orders for replacement OLED screens for the Sony MZ-RH10: MDGadgetry link: https://mdgadgetry.com/products/Replacement-Screen-for-MZ-RH10-p750245452 Link to the r/minidisc Reddit announcement:
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MDS-JE510 loosing tracking and freeze
sfbp replied to magicnumbers's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
My only comment is: this is a servo mechanism. As such it will display strange behaviours when it stops working (ie cannot self-correct by repositioning and maximising the signal for a track). Right, Kevin? -
FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
BearBoy replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
Understand completely. I don't think I would be confident to try it either. I've carried out some maintenance on decks (MiniDisc and cassette), and am happy enough soldering wiring in guitars, but portable MiniDisc recorders would require a whole different level of precision/skill that I just don't think I have. -
Hello to all, Recently i got my hands on this minidisc deck. I bought it as non working which indeed wasnt,mechanism was dry and out of sync,lubed it clean it and reads ok. Recording is another story of it, doesnt record since the recording head was messed up by the metal frame inside and was badly bent and cut. My issue -apart from this- is that sometimes when i insert a disc,or changing tracks,or middle of the song (same spot) the laser looses track and mysic stops,or if its on toc reading stays there forever. Disc cant eject and player enters a zombie state which wakes up after 20-30 minutes,regardless of if i unplug cable switch of etc. No service menu is possible too. Is this something familiar to anyone? Actions i had were increasing laser output through Service menu,quite a few steps 6-7 and errors are less. But occur.
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FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
zzzuppp replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
Yes, I know that but I don't feel remotely confident enough to do the work involved...my son has volunteered to have a go (he's done things like replacing the battery in my cellphone) but I don't think he realises how fiddly the process is going to be with a Minidisc. -
FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
BearBoy replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
@zzzuppp - have you seen that you can get replacement OLED screens for these now? -
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FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
zzzuppp replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
Sounds as if its in very bad shape. The usual problem with MZ-RH1s is the OLEDs going (I have two MZ-RH1s and both of them have lost both OLEDs) but all those other problems you mention haven't visited themselves on my units. What a shame for you. -
FREE: MOSTLY BROKEN MZ-RH1 *No Longer Available. OFFER RESCINDED*
BearBoy replied to Syrius's topic in Classifieds
Much as I'd love an RH-1, I fear I completely lack the skills required to resurrect it. Very generous offer though @Syrius! Hope it finds a good home. -
EDIT: I managed to get it to work with a computer after cleaning the USB port, so it is at least partially useful to me. No longer available, thank you. This is not a delayed April Fool's joke. I can't bear to have this mostly-dead RH1 with me, as I cannot use it, so I'd rather hand it over to someone who may want to take it apart for parts, or what have you. I've kept it safely tucked away in a drawer, humidity and smoke-free for years, so it hasn't been mishandled, but it has started to develop more and more failures over time on its own. You're getting it AS-IS, so know what you're getting into before you decide grab this unit: One of the OLED panels doesn't light up anymore. Unit will NOT enter PC-MD mode when connected to a PC. Not sure how or why. The computer will not detect it, but power flows through. The jog lever doesn't respond when moved up or down, or will do something else other than moving the track forward or backwards. (Opening the edit menu, for example) Same when used with the remote (not included): It will either not respond, or activate an entirely different command. Unit will read the disc TOC, and play it if you can get it to "listen" to your pressing of the play button. Makes no difference if it's formatted as HI-MD or legacy. It will try to charge the battery (not included), but I haven't been able to confirm if it will do it to completion as my battery is old and doesn't retain the charge. Unsure if the recording capability still works, due to how "deaf" the unit has become over the years. I was able to record a couple discs before storing it away, however. Please give this unit a decent send-off, dissection or burial, at your discretion. All you will have to pay is the shipping and fair and reasonable handling fees. I will only take Paypal. I will ship within the USA. Canada and Europe, PM first to discuss shipping based on your location. Thank you.
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I'm sure it's a function of how many bots are attacking us. Speaking for myself, I know there were huge runs about 1 month ago (around 25/2) but that might be different for someone else such as our hoster which is somewhere in the USA.
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No, it's not an April fool, we appear to be back 🙂 We seemed to run out of bandwidth especially early in March?
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The standard RM-MC38EL should work. Maybe if you dream about it you can wake up with an idea of what to do. I'm stumped. However the middle bit looks like the NH900's.
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Well, I was able to remove the lid from my MZ-DH 710 and then remove the circuit board from the lid. The part is the same as shown in the RH 900 service manual:, I have a non-functioning RH 900 to experiment on. Unfortunately, the exploded diagram showing the 'jog dial' and '5 way control key' is a tease. The entire switch control is a single sealed unit and soldered solidly to the circuit board. I imagine that if one ever went in for repair, the entire circuit board would be replaced. Bummer! , especially so because there is no remote for this mode and it doesn't have even have enough heft to be a paper weight. Thanks for the assistance. Maybe I'll send it to some Sony repair facility and see if they react in any way.
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Limp means it's not electrical, i think. Take a look at page 50 of the NH900 service manual. The others will surely all be similar.