1kyle

Actually if you load your player up BEFORE getting on the plane --and why carry a BOX of minidiscs with you anyway -- even 5 HI-MD's at HI-SP will give you nearly 40 CD's listening in any case so you shouldn't have that problem. It's not difficult in any case to load a MD into a player even if you are travelling "Cattle Class" on Ryanair - Not that I've got anything against Ryanair --had some good flights to Finland from the UK for 1 EUR (yes 1 EUR) from Stanstead (near London) to Tampere (near Helsinki. Having 20GB / 40 GB of music on an Ipod, fiddling around and deciding what to play can be a problem. With a Minidisc I just pop in say a Hi-MD disk of Mozart's Marriage of Figaro, put on a pair of decent Bose cans and ignore everything else until we are landing 3 hours later. With a pair of decent cans some IPOD music can sound excruciatingly HIDEOUS. The small white phones (same problem as the Sony Bud phones that come supplied with the MD units) mask horrendous sounds so Ipods can actually appear to sound reasonable. I'm assuming typical MP3 stuff at lowish bit rates on the IPODS --decent PCM will be OK but IMO if you don't use PCM /WAV then ATRAC3 plus at HI-SP or the old GENUINE SP sounds far better than other compressed formats by a UNIVERSE. Cheers -K

Just had a 2nd RH10 delivered -- this one is for use in my studio for recording lectures etc (I give a lot of photography lectures etc). Got from Amazon UK at a really LOW (for the UK) price - I get the VAT back so the price was 129.23 GBP or 190.61 EUR. Even if you have to pay VAT @ 17.5% which adds another 23.58 GBP or 34.65 EUR on the price this to me is an incredible bargain. Here's part of the invoice http://www.1kyle.com/amazon.jpg Actually anything I've bought from Amazon has always been good value and arrives on time. I wish I'd ordered another 2 or even 3 of them. Cheers -K

Thanks -- BTW I've solved the problem with SB 2.0 not connecting to gracenote CDDB --it wasn't anything to do with SONY's software at all. I've answered the problem in the software section -- but briefly it was to do with the CDDB applet not working after I'd connected a brand new 24 inch LCD for 1800 X resolution and added a new Nvidia graphics card. A Java update and Nvidi driver update fixed the problem !!! Cheers -K

Found the answer --strangely enough wasn't anything to do with SS or MB -- I'd installed a new Nvidia graphics card as well as a nice large "24 in) LCD monitor. I then needed a JAVA update as the - the little CDDB applet wasn't working properly when I changed the screen resolution from a hideous looking 1024 X 768 (OK on a smaller monitor but not on the nice new BIG ones) to 1800. After I'd done that and re-booted I got the CDDB registration screen on MD Simple Burner and it all works fine. So this time wasn't SONY's fault. Cheers -K

Version 2.0.04.180080 downloaded from the board doesn't seem to pick up CD info anymore from the CDDB database Version 2.0.03.16212 (installed on my laptop) seems to work fine Here's a screenshot of what I get with both computers First the latest version --doesn't get CDDB info (Unknown Disk !!) http://www.1kyle.com/sbdesktop.jpg (you might need to expand the image to see it clearly) the previous version from my laptop http://www.1kyle.com/sblaptop.jpg Anybody still got the older copy as I've overwritten it with the newer version . Cheers -K

The Web installer doesn't work either (although an alternate can be found via Google) The SB version I installed seems to have a problem with getting CD info from CDDB --on my laptop SB finds no prob getting CD info for the same CD's. (Computers Ugh Ugh). Cheers -K

"Necessity is the mother of invention". -- Of course I'm sure there are plenty of better methods -- but when you haven't got all the necessary bits and pieces then you can sometimes achieve what you want to do by going back to "First Principles" and making do with what you have rather than not doing it just because you "haven't got all the components" you need. If I really needed a recording and this was the only way I could do it with the equipment I had at hand then the choice is use this "Dinosaur" method and still get the recording or pine for new equipment and miss the recording. As a photographer I've often had to adapt "Dinosaur" technology to picture taking situations where I could grab the shot -- if I don't get the shot I don't eat !!. I'm not having a go at you -- it's just that I've seen so many situations where people just give up when they don't have ALL the right pieces rather than try and see if they can make what they have work --it's good practice using your ingenuity -- more fun than you think and you might even enjoy the satisfaction of having suceeded where others would have just given up. Cheers -K

1) -- When importing WMA Lossless into the library you get a whole collection of extra files in the library under "Optimized files" which seem to end up in OMA format as well as the WMA files. Now what on earth do these do --- are they also used somehow when you transfer music to the MD device or whatever. 2) A similar thing seems to happen when you use ATRAC Lossless. 3) WAV doesn't generate any extra files at all -- I've got OOODLES of disc space now (external 300GB discs are cheap enough and and 2 of these should be more than enough for any CD's I want to rip and keep on disc --- Blu ray etc with 35 - 50 GB is about to launch so backup should be no prob either). I don't bother with downloaded music --quality still not good enough and some restrictions irksome on where you can play it etc etc. 4) transferring to SP (the old SP mode) in version 3.4 of SS seems to use most of the RAW PCM file --there's some transcoding and limited encryption -- the original SP files had a very limited encryption and DRM issues were confined to a resettable bit in the TOC --actually it was SCMS --serial copy management system rather than DRM. Since the original SP (pre Net MD units) didn't have a USB interface I would suppose the transfer must be pretty much "Bitwise" with the transcoding done in the hardware itself --which could explain the length of time taken when transferring WAV to standard SP. 5) So transferring WAV to the old SP using SS 3.4 IMO doesn't actually use the "Fake SP" mode that the "Compressed" formats might use when transcoding. I've tried making some SP discs from WAV and they DEFINITELY DO sound better than either HI-SP or any of the MDLP modes. Hi-SP is pretty much OK --certainly better than "the competition" and LP2 is certainly adequate for most portable listening on the move such as in cars, trains and planes--but after trying out lots of options I've finally come round to the following Re-Rip EVERYTHING in WAV --external hard discs are cheap enough now. Keep HI-MD sp mode discs / LP2 discs for on the move listening. (Hi-SP if you want to take 1GB discs, LP2 if your device such as car radio only plays legacy gear) use HI-MD PCM for recording your gigs or at concerts etc etc. For at home playing stick to the old SP mode. (If you don't have a lot of disc space then use any decent LOSSLESS format and convert only the music you want to transfer to MD to WAV. Do your transfer and then delete the WAV file again). Hopefully this will be the LAST rip I have to do of my CD's. Cheers -K

That I don't know -- As they are on a computer it would be fairly easy I suppose to just either boot the computer at the time you want with a simple timer switch and switch it off again at the time you want to stop recording. Connect your MD to the same switch as well if it doesn't have a timer. However most decent MD decks have time recording option so that end of it shouldn't be a problem. My MDS-JB980 certainly has a timer feature on the front panel. On a Linux system it's even easier --you can schedule a job (Crontab) to start and end at specific times --Windows might have something like this --not sure. Google on Windows Job Scheduler or something like that and set it up to start playing your device at the time you want to start recording. Cheers -K

Now without wanting to run away too fast --wouldn't it be great if this device also had some sort of built in HD or solid state memory as well which could be used in-situ for transferring TO or from MD IN THE DEVICE -- that really would be the best of BOTH worlds -- you have your old MD's and a nice 20GB HD player concurrently ---(Probably as much chance of that happening as being bitten by Hens Teeth). Anyway great to have a new device on the horizon -. Cheers -K

That's the best solution ---using NERO driveimage you don't even need to burn a "Physical CD" either. I was just looking at some other ways of recording in "Legacy" mode but for my purposes HI-SP (for HI-MD) and LP2 are fine. If I Must have an SP disk then I'll just use the realtime method with optical in and out. Cheers -K

Does SS 3.4 rip in WMA Lossless or Lossy WMA. Microsoft media player 9 or 10 gives options WMA or WMA lossless for ripping -- problem with using Windows Media player for CD ripping is that invariably tack information is lost --I don't know what service it uses to retrieve track info but it only seems to give me a few tracks per CD and not the entire CD. How do I get the WMA lossless into SS 3.4 with all the CD track info or is there another Stand Alone CD ripper that rips into WMA lossless AND gets CD track information. Thanks Cheers -K

Just a warning to all those of you who've purchased their nice shiny new RH10's --there is a really weak point on these --- open the battery compartment VERY CAREFULLY INDEED or the tiny piece of plastic on the underside (the non shiny side)of the lever will break off. Lucky I've got Engineering skills --I've replaced this TWICE on my RH10 --it's fiddly but can be done --tiny watch makers screws have to be undone and the unit GENTLY prised from the case. You can then remove the battery opening lever and attach a new one. I've got the service manual and spare parts are quite easy for me to get (contacts in the business !!). I think the 2nd time it broke was probably because my repair wasn't 100% solid --it is now --- I still love the RH10 --but why on earth do they design a part such as a battery compartment with such a flimsy lever. --A flimsy 10 cent or pence component can render a 160 GBP / 280 USD piece of equipment USELESS. Whatever happened to quality and "Battleship" Engineering design. Anyway --if you are changing the battery PLEASE DO IT CAREFULLY. Cheers -K

You can get DAB radio cards for PC's -- find them in any PC world etc. All the "normal" BBC radio programs are on DAB together with a lot of extra one's and coverage in most of the UK is pretty good. Bit rates are lower than I would like --but for typical speech etc radio programs are more than adequate and better quality than "Podcasts". Cheers -K

Not sure how to add an image on this site but if you double click http://www.1kyle.com/minidiscapp.jpg you should see the screen The CD I got was an oldish one so the application might not be available on the newer version --but it's available all over the net. Cheers -K

I bought an Audigy 2 ZS card for my laptop (can get great 6.1 and 7.1 DVD sounds as well). The card also has an Optical IN and Optical OUT. Using their software you can transfer to minidisc (Minidisc centre included in the software) via the optical out on the sound card --fits into the PCMCIA slot on your laptop. OK the transfer to Minidisc is in "Real Time" but you get all the track info etc etc and there's a nice Minidisc labelling application included. This is great also for recording legacy discs such as SP mode where it is "Finicky" to add all the track info. The audigy library has no probs with format conversions or sharing libraries between computers. You can have Multiple libraries as well --- problem with SS is what do you do if your disk is full --you can't (AFAIK) add multiple volumes to the database --if I'm wrong please tell me how to do it --would be very interested. The MD application gives you MD playlists which you can store in an EXCEL spreadsheet for example so even if you don't want the real time application the play list facility is very useful. Cheers -K

I think this essentially shows that if you use any sort of MP3 you need a computer which can be a nuisance at times. For ripping CD's direct to MD or direct recording of your gig etc then you won't have a problem with MD if you record in realtime (analog / optical) or us SS for transfers at a decent bit rate. One can argue that it might have been better for Sony to have ignored the MP3 option altogether rather than include it but give it a "poor" performance -- after all would you buy a Ferrari if it had a Ford Fiesta engine in it. MD is a bit more than just a "playback" device. For just playback maybe another device might suit you better but as a recording medium MD still rules the roost --now that DAT is "officilly dead". For those toying with the idea of "Solid State" players -- an 8GB card costs around a cool 450 USD. What does 1 1GM HD disk cost -- you can get them for as low as 8 USD each now if you source them correctly. Audiocube sells a pack of 50 1GB HI-MD disc for 399 USD -- thats around 8 USD a piece. http://www.audiocubes.com/product/Sony_HMD...k_(50_pcs).html If you download highly compressed poor quality music from "ICHOONES" riddled with DRM issues a playback only device like an ipod might be your best bet -- I wouldn't use a MD device for listening to MP3 tracks anyway --wasn't designed for that purpose. Use WAV / WMA and convert to ATRAC3+ (or ATRAC3 losseless at highest bitrate). You'll get a much better sound quality --leave MP3's for Ipods etc. The MP3 playback was just added as an afterthought --Sony have no commitment to that format so you won't get the best encoding in any case. Cheers -K

I think the 8-track tape was a bad example. I've still got a Record deck that can still play 78 RPM's as well as albums and 45's. I use this from time to time and I'm not going to throw it away any time soon. I have a really top end high end MD deck and a bookshelf unit -- these will last me for ages yet even if the whole format IS dropped (which I don't think it will be). I have portable units as well and enough blank disks to last almost a lifetime so even if Sony does its worst I'll still be able to use the MD's for years to come. Some older equipment STILL works great even if newer technology is available. After all we can still ride horses even though cars have largely replaced the horse for travel,and in spite of people showing me those big buly personal organisers that seem to be a hugely popular gadget for the younger generation -- a notebook and ball point pen still works perfectly for me. Don't get rid of ALL equipment just because something newer comes along --it's not always BETTER. Also the big bugbear with MP3 players etc --apart from the sound quality which IMO is questionable is that to do anything useful with them you have to use a computer -- I like to listen to a high end deck on high quality speaker withoou a computer ANYWHERE NEAR ME. Cheers -K

You can get 7 1/2 hrs approx on a HI-MD disk at HI-SP quality (256) That's roughly 8 CD's. IMO HI-SP is 99.9% good quality enough for ripping most commercially available CD's you get these days. I'm not sure about the sound quality with PCDP but the general consensus is that the current version of ATRAC3+ given a decent bit rate (256 for HI-SP is fine) is very good indeed. One thing I have noticed in the last few years is that the general sound quality from commercial CD's seems to be poorer than it used to be --maybe this is because a lot more people are used to poorer quality music available from Download services or used to listening to MP3's made from appallingly low bit rates and the CD producers are trying to make their sound similar to these. (We've come full circle). A few exceptions such as some classical music and the SACD format -- which won't really get off the ground as there is hardly a market at all for another CD format which is incompatable with existing equipment and above al;l can't be played on a computer --so no ripping. To get the best quality on your MD -- rip the CD's in ATRAC3+ Lossless (these can be converted Losslessly into WAV if you want later) and then use SS to transfer the tracks to your MD at the highest bit rate. Cheers -K

I never thought about the editing However in PLAYBACK mode it would make sense -- the unit already plays back in SP/LP2/LP4/HI-MD/HI-LP/PCM/MP3 so why not ATRAC3+. The ATRAC3+ playback quality should be 100% equal to PCM (It's losseless afterall) and could be loaded to the MD via SS or (wishful thinking here --Drag 'n Drop from a computer). If one is not interested in editing a recording on the MD but prepared to do it on the computer an ATRAC3+ recording option could still be a decent choice in a lot of situations. Do many people still edit their recordings actually on the MD device or do they use a computer. As to the "Disk Time left" problem -- Atrac3+ in the "Worst case" scnario i.e if lossless compression can't compress the PCM very much you get roughly 2 times the amount of a PCM recording on a HI-MD disk -- so you could guarantee a minimum of 2 Hours per disc --- seems to me a reasonable amount. I'd then set my recording to 2 hour chunks and change discs at the appropriate points. In fact I'd have 2 recorders so I wouldn't miss anything and "Join" the recording or "Merge" it on a computer. This is probably what's done anyway with the 80 min PCM recordings. Cheers -K

I can't understand this -- you are going to a concert ( a one-off) and you haven't got a spare battery or at the very least didn't charge up your recorder before going. I'm afraid I can't help you out with recovering the recording -- but to me not having a spare in this situation is just asking for trouble. As a pro photographer I always carry a complete spare Camera when going to an assignment. It doesn't matter how good your equipment is --you will sooner or later get equipment failure -- hopefully lesson learned -- and take advantage of the kind poster who offered to send you a copy. Cheers -K

Your computer needs to be able to boot from a USB device via the BIOS --Your MD will appear just as a bog standard device like a Card reader or a USB stick. Set the USB option as a boot option in your computer's BIOS (Your computer will have a setup screen at boot time) --press the relevant keys for your machine when booting. If you can't set the computer to boot from a USB device then it won't work I'm afraid -- however nearly all Intel (PC) type machines made within the last 18 months to 2 years should have a USB boot option. You create the Bootable disk as a BOOTABLE CD in NERO with these options : NO EMULATION and NUMBER OF SECTORS set to 4 --don't try and use a "Floppy Boot image". Don't use the standard NERO boot disk creation options or it won't work. You have to use a "CD Image" --even if you are making a bootable DVD --works fine. For more info on creating bootable disks and running Windows from CD's etc you'll get a whole pethora of information from this site http://www.nu2.nu/pebuilder together with this one (Read BOTH sites) http://xpe.collewijn.info/index.php Warning --this stuff is addictive so don't start if you have something else to do once you've begun. I've given the Windows info as there's plenty of info on how to create the boot disks -- once you've understood the mechanics of Boot Disk creation you should then be able to create your own bootable disk with your Linux distro / app on it. Note that MD only boots at USB 1.1 speed not USB 2.0 so it's not a terribly fast booting method -- also your computer needs to have a decent amount of RAM in it or it will page like crazy --remember the whole OS is running from the MD. Finally some more articles for you http://www.weethet.nl/english/hardware_bootfromusbstick.php Cheers -K

Of course when your 60 GB device gets broken or stolen --you've got a prob re-creating all your music. Now with MD's --the worst that can happen is you lose 1 unit + 1 disk. Being in the middle of ripping all my CD's (hopefully for the last time) to ATRC3 Lossless I NEVER want to have to do this exercise again. Re-creating 60GB of music wouldn't also be my idea of fun either. Also what do you do with these devices if you want to buy a new one. AFAIK there isn't any easy option copying music between these devices. I don't like ITUNES or any other music downl;oad service which doesn't give me UNCOMPRESSED music and the ability to play it on whatever machine I choose so the convenience or otherwise of a HD player vs MD player for downloaded music doesn't interest me --however losing / re-creating music DOES. Don't think it won't happen that you will lose music --it certainly will. Long time computer users know to their cost what happens if they don't back up data regularly --apart from hard disk failures it's easy to delete data by mistake. With decently labelled minidiscs your collection is safe, secure and will play on any minidisc player on the planet (assuming ATRAC type recording rather than MP3). Cheers -K

OK I know we can't have verything at once -- and Sony has come up with a great version of SS SS 3.4 --does almost everything we want. Why not go the whole hog and allow the MD units to record and play back using ATRAC3 lossless rather than PCM -- this would certainly yield much more playing time on the discs as well. Transcoding could be done by dedicated hardware chips so you wouldn't notice any delay due to decoding / encoding. Hardware dedicated processors can be made incredibly fast now days --just look at what Nvidia is doing to its graphic cards --very fast processing on a chip the size of a postage stamp. These chips are going to be used in the next generation of mobile phones with video streaming. Similarly look at the dedicated processes going on inside top end Professional digital cameras (Canon 1-series for example). Don't confuse this process with doing it in software i.e on a computer --software is usually a zillion times slower at these type of tasks. Note if you need PCM for wider distribution SS will convert your ATRAC3 losseless to PCM so no probs there AFAIK. Cheers -K

If you use say the RH10's analog play back you might get a better sound as the manual seems to imply that certain features in the amplifier have been added to improve the play back of the earlier formats (SP/LP2/LP4). However if you've got a decent deck such as the JB980 which is ATRAC-Type R then I think the Optical Out from this type of deck to optical in on the computer will yield a better result -- although the quality of the RH10 is very very good as well. An Analog ==> Analog ==> digital (the final ATRAC3 Lossless file) will probably introduce more errors than the optical out from the JB980 to the optical in of the computer. In either case the result won't disappoint you. It's probably better as Dex has said not to use the old unit for making the transfer to the computer but to use a newer model. Cheers -K