greenmachine

The optical-in is an analogue line-in as well (automatically detected depending on what you connect). You can use the headphone-out of your HiFi (although a line-out would be preferred sound quality wise).

Hello, i build 'binaural' microphones much similar to the style of Sound Pro's SP-BMC-2 myself. Since left and right channel can be separated, they're much more flexible and will have an advantage in sound quality for realistic field recordings compared to single point microphones. I will ship within europe for EUR 2,40 (~USD 2.86) and worldwide for EUR 3,50 (~USD 4.18). To evaluate their sound quality, you can find a large variety of sample recordings here and here. You can take a look at this thread and this site to see how they're made and look like. You (and others) are welcome to send me a personal message if interested.

Church acoustics are different from average clubs - virtually no boominess like in smaller rooms (room resonance usually below 30 Hz), very little damping of the walls, lots of high frequency reflections. Most of the time no amplification through (boomy) loudspeakers. A perfect place for ambient recordings with omnidirectional microphones (in my opinion).

To me, everything that sounds good is HiFi. What's your definition of HiFi?

Atrac Life is is the right place for non-MD Atrac devices related issues.

I have to second this. I'm also very impressed with recording quality of all the various musical performances i've recorded lately. Very close to professional quality indeed. Each equipment might have its own quirks, but i think sound quality is all that really matters in the end. Welcome back, veezhun.

The more heat you apply, the shorter you have to keep the soldering time in order not to damage it. Passive cooling should lower the risk somewhat. I've also (most of the time successfully) done it with a 25W iron before i got a better suited one. The trick is to work quickly. If you don't succeed instantly, let it cool down then try again.

1411kbps pcm is uncompressed lossless compared to audio cd resolution. The resulting bitrate of a lossless compression is lower but unpredictable (not fixed).

Doesn't post noise removal either dull the sound or amplify artifacts?

This restriction has been removed from Sonicstage 3.2 onwards. You can find the latest version, 3.4 here: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=9586

Transcoding from a lossy to another lossy codec will always result in quality loss, no matter how high you set the bitrate. The higher you set the bitrate, the less obvious it will be though. The '128k mp3 equals the quality of 64k a3+' relation is just one of sony's myths. Re-rip directly to the final codec/bitrate whenever possible for better fidelity. Otherwise choose a bitrate slightly above (i.e. Hi-SP) to keep transcoding losses as small as possible without wasting too much space. If you have a 2nd gen Hi-MD you don't need to transcode.

Don't give up yet, you'll get into it sooner or later. It works pretty much like any other audio editor without some of the advanced functions.

Almost 28 days continuously or almost two years with an average of one hour per day if your files average 128 kbps. At that point you will have listened to each file only once. I think 1GB is plenty for portable listening since you can easily rewrite the media.

The player itself will decode the content in realtime, which can be captured by your soundcard's input. USB upload is not possible (yet). http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=7070

Audacity - free basic editing software with good documentation (i think).

It's hidden in the depths of the gallery, category theatre and spoken word, here: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?act=m...album&album=209 The first example appears to show the for cardioids typical nasal, dimensionless sound. RockyDisc, if you have the chance to share different recordings / kinds of music for evaluation from time to time, we'd appreciate it. Thanks for sharing.

How do you like the sound without a separator (your head) in between? From own experiments, i think it sounds a little lifeless/flat, without real dimension/depth. You could also try to experiment with a jecklin disk, dummy head or any other kind of artificial baffle. Thanks for sharing.

I think it was almost 2x, not 3x.

If you're talking about unencrypted data content, you could move the data to a temporary drive, wipe the disc and copy back. I don't know if it would work with encrypted audio files though, if they would be still readable. I'd rather worry about the durability of the device's mechanics. Discs can be relatively easily replaced for relatively little money, while your unit cannot. Standard MDs are rated for (theoretical) 1 million rewrite cycles iirc, i don't know about 1GB discs though.

I'd rather use a multimeter or any other externel battery tester, but you can try this simple circuit. You'll need a pushbutton, two resistors and a red LED (2V). At 9V the LED will glow bright enough to be easily recognizable, at 7-8V pretty dim and from approximately 6V and below there's no indication anymore. At that point it's about time to replace the battery. Always disconnect either the microphones or the battery after use to avoid unnecessary drain. Don't use a permanent switch, which can be accidentally left in 'on' position to avoid unwanted current drain by the test circuit. If you want to use blue, white, green or any other 3V LED, you'll need different values for the resistors. Here's an exemplary schematic: [attachmentid=1437]

You can store anywhere from less than 30 minutes up to 45 hours of music on one disc, depending on what what mode, quality and disc you use. http://www.minidisc.org/hi-md_faq.html#_q93 Pre Hi-MD machines can store 80/160/320 minutes on a 80min standard MD, depending on what quality you use.

http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=7070

I'm using a computer fan for cooling when fast charging batteries (>0.1C). As long as they don't get hot, they shouldn't swell, at least if you don't overcharge them significantly. Avoiding heat should extend their lifespan. Once they're damaged, there's no easy way to 'repair' them. You propably have to dispose the swollen battery. [attachmentid=1432]

Seems like a color index. Choose whatever you prefer.

Does it still make that particular door lock noise when you set it to rec-pause or stop afterwards?