nathantw666

I got this when I tried playing a file: No suitable decoder module: VLC does not support the audio or video format "undf". Unfortunately there is no way for you to fix this.

And this is why people hated Minidisc players -- copy protection. I'm feeling angry for you. I would have hated losing my concerts that I recorded.

I had a hard drive crash on me and I basically lost my music that was on SS. It was a real pain and I was angry. I still am. Nowadays when I need to transfer music from my minidisc to SS I make sure that it creates a WAV file so I'd at least have another copy of it somewhere. I'm not a fan of WAV since the files are so big, but it's better than nothing.

Thanks. I tried the HQRP green batteries I purchased from Amazon. It did a pretty good job and lasted quite a while. The gray ones were terrible and I was barely able to charge them. Of course the real batteries are the ones to get if you can find them. In the meantime, I'll pay the $10 for the HQRP ones.

Yes I do have a working laserdisc player. I hadn't used it in a LONG while and when I did the gears must have gotten gummed up because the laser would hardly play and when it did and actually made it to the end of the disc it wouldn't flip to the other side. The picture was terrible and since it was a combo player (dvd and laserdisc) it kept defaulting to DVD. HOWEVER, after using it consistently it's much better than before and plays laserdiscs whenever I put it in and flips to the other side without a problem. The picture wasn't all that great since I was using a S-Video port on a new television. However, I found that if I used composite instead of S-video the picture suddenly cleaned up an got better. Kind of an opposite result than what was expected. It has something to do with the A/D or D/A conversion. I had the same "ah-ha" moment when finding that out and when I found out I could use the Line-In instead of Mic when recording live events with the minidisc (you can find my ah-ha post in the "Recording" section). My Garmin 60CSx is pretty good in daylight. Since it's at home on the trail of course it would get used. However, I recently took it on a driving trip and I had forgotten how much better it was for information than my built-in car GPS. I have the screen set up (yes, customizable) so I could have the destination distance and time, upcoming turn distance and time, altitude, time, dates, longitude and latitude coordinates, and compass heading all on one page. On my car GPS it's either, or, or none at all. Best of all I can get all that with a map without a cellular phone signal.

Thank you for the article. As sad as it sounds I still use a lot of the old technology they mentioned, such as the minidisc, standalone GPS, boom box, e-reader and laserdisc. My feeling is that just because there's something out there that's all in one or "better" doesn't mean that you need to trash the old things that worked the way you like.

If you don't mind me chiming in, I personally love the remotes. I normally carry the mindisc and the remote in my coat or jacket pocket. I can basically just reach in there to fast forward, reverse, stop, start, change albums and change volume all without taking anything out of the pocket. Everything is by feel. That's better than taking my phone out of my pocket when listening to music since all I can do by feel is change the volume. At concerts I use the RM-MC40ELK. It's great because my minidisc and the microphone battery pack stay in my pocket and I'm able to change levels by just looking at the remote's backlit LCD screen that's clipped on my pants pocket making it easily accessible. By the way, I've done what you said about ripping the headphones out of your ear, which is the reason why I don't attach it to my backpack any longer.

I agree that the problem of dark RH1 (and RH10) screens are going to get worse. I was wishing someone would just make a new, modern OLED panel that was compatible with this unit. It'll be a shame when all of the minidisc units are dark. By then everyone will be using solid state units that use SD cards instead. That's fine, but they look like recorders. I like the minidisc because they don't look like recorders and can be used to just listen to music. That fact it makes it easier to bring into concerts than something that's blatanly obvious that its used for recording.

Wow. Color me impressed! Great job!

I don't think it would be beyond your capabilities to replace the panel. Just need to be persistent. It helped a lot that the service manuals were online. I personally don't have an electrical degree nor a "fixin' it" degree. I go in with a screw driver and Philips and hope for the best, though recently I've been pretty successful fixing things, though, I did blow out a display on my wife's ipod nano, but buying a new screen fixed that. Whew. I was really wishing I had purchased two RH1's when my problem first developed. Now that the one is fixed I'm a happy camper. I'll probably rarely use it though for fear the left display will start fading now. I'm just using my RH10 for music now. Hopefully that won't fade too.

I found a working EL display for the MZ-RH1 and decided to replace the display myself. If you're wondering what it entails here's my video: Took about 1.5 hours and the hardest part was taking the EL panel off since it's basically glued on with heavy duty adhesive. Putting everything back together wasn't that simple either because of the buttons. Enjoy.

I always set my displays to auto off because I use the remote for all operations. Unfortunately the display still aged and is about 40% of where it was new. I wish there was some way we could retrofit some LCD or even a color oled display in its place.

Unfortunately you can't change menu options by remote, at least the one I'm using. I need to use the left hand screen on the rh1. The remote I'm using is the one with 3 lines of info.

I know this is an old topic, but it's just driving me mad that my OLED on the RH1 is fading to black. I didn't use it anywhere as much as I'm sure some people have used theirs and it's still going dark. Sadly I'm thinking it's the age that's killing the OLED. Once it goes dark, I'm thinking that maybe a newer solid state recorder will be in order instead of buying a new RH1 since the display will be dark after 7 years or a less. FWIW, I sent my unit to Sony last August and they sent it back saying they couldn't fix it.

I just recorded the loud concert and unfortunately I didn't see this message in time. I used a 69Hz cutoff and you're right, I really didn't need it. The recording came out PERFECTLY! I used a 12v battery box. I'm very happy with the sound, though it could use more bass. ;-) Once again the RH1 came out like a champ. I remember reading that people had trouble with recording with the unit if it moved and that it had to be completely still when it was writing to disc. Well, I'm here to report that as long as it's not jostled around you can move around while it's recording and writing to disc. However, if you jump up and down...well, it'll be game over then.

Hi ja, Thanks for your detailed explanation on how and what you record. I usually record at concerts where there's a lot of bass and the music is loud. My microphones need to be discrete to get into the stadiums so I use the in ear ones sold by Sound Professionals, SP-TFB-2 and use either a 9v or 12v (with bass rolloff) battery box. The 12v one is new and the other night was the first time I've used it. Now that I learned about using line-in instead of mic I'm not really sure I need to use the bass rolloff. If I do I think I'll keep it at 69 Hz. The next concert is coming up and I'll report how it goes.

You don't get the bass problem I got? I am setting the level manually. I try to put the level just above the middle dot on RH1. What do you set your low pass filter to? If I use the line-in can I just bypass the low pass filter? I had it set for 69 Hz previously and was ready to make it even higher than that. What do you think?

Why oh why didn't I visit this forum to learn how to record? I've been frequenting this forum and the minidisc forum for years now. Unfortunately it doesn't seem I've been reading the "right" posts. I've been recording concerts for a few years now (especially after my RH1 arrived) and I've always had problems with the bass sounding like it's killing the microphones. I've purchased a couple battery boxes and even tried one with a bass cutoff at 69Hz. After Monday's concert I just had it and looked up whether I needed a better microphone (it goes up to 120db with a battery box). What I found out makes me a bit angry I didn't look here and read other FAQ's elsewhere...like the place that sold my microphone. They all recommend for loud music to use the LINE-IN and not the MIC. The MIC sensitivity will overload and that's why the bass sounds like it's hitting a wall. They said with a battery box and a loud music to use LINE-IN. Truthfully I didn't know a microphone would work with a line-in input, but I must be wrong. If the mic is powered then it'll work. So a few concerts "wasted" when I could have had perfect recordings. Sigh. Just goes to show that I should frequent these places a little more often. So, the next

Truthfully I tried this a while ago so I don't remember. I do remember that it didn't even see my minidisc player. Maybe they fixed it since the last time I tried. My PS3 isn't near me so I can't try.

I tried this when I first got my PS3 a year or two ago and it didn't work. The PS3 also doesn't seem to read ATRAC CD's, which is really strange considering it'll encode your music onto the PS3 in ATRAC if you want it to copy your CD.

If they had put it on UMD they absolutely shouldn't use the case that the PSP uses. The clear plastic cover always get gets pushed in and the disc fails to read. Its happened to at least 2 or 3 discs I've had. Not very reliable, especially if it were used in a professional environment. That said I'd love something more than 1 GB, especially when recording PCM (I missed the last 4 songs of a concert because I was recording in PCM by mistake). However, that's what we have if we want to stay with minidisc. The unfortunate part about the SD card-based units is that they look like recording devices. If the security guard saw that he'd say leave it at home. If they saw the MZ-RH1 you just say it's your music machine and they wouldn't think twice about it.

Are you using Windows 7 Professional? I had concerns about installing SS onto Windows 7 64-bit, but everything seemed to work perfectly. Starting with Windows 7 Professional you get XP compatibility, so Professional and Ultimate will give you that. Not sure if SS works with the versions below Pro.

Howdy, Now that Windows 7 is offically released, have any of you beta users had any success installing Sonicstage 4.3 onto your 64-bit systems? Everything I look at says it's not compatible. However, I did see one person had tried a XP compatibility mode. Does that work under 64-bit? Thanks in advance. Nathan

That's correct. I didn't know how to phrase it and you did a better job.

I'm a little late on this thread, but I agree that the RM-MC40ELK was expensive but it's worth it. When I first purchased the remote I thought to myself that I was nuts to spend so much on a remote, but after my first, second and third concert recording I realized it was worth every cent. Being able to adjust the recorder on the fly and seeing the VU meters without taking the RH1 out of my pocket made the remote so worth the money. The only flaws it has is that you can't start a recording with the remote since there's no record/pause button. You need to put your recorder on record/pause before slipping it away. The other flaw is that you can't skip albums when just using it as a listening device. If you can find the remote I suggest you buy it.