matheis

Hello All!!! Looking to divest myself of my RH10 (US, black) and himd's. The RH10 is in immaculate condition with a screen protector over the oled display and is in perfect working order. All accessories will be included, in fact the RH10 will be packed in the original box. Looking for $200 + shipping in the CONUS. I also have 15 himd's I'd like to sell. I want to sell them as a package for $75 + shipping in the CONUS. Or a package deal for $275 for the RH10 + himd's shipped in the CONUS. Please email me at matheismd AT yahoo DOT com (removing spaces and adding punctuation/symbols as appropriate). Thanks! Nikolaus PS, I might not respond right away, as I'll be out of town Dec 29 - Jan 2.

bump for price drop on blanks to $0.65 each + shipping pm or email me. i know someone must be interested in some blanks at this price!!!

hello all!!! i've got LOTS of blanks for sale. 74 and 80min. music on some. some labeled, some not. sony, tdk, memorex. looking for $0.75 each + shipping. feedback under the same username at head-fi. feedback here and here and here. if interested email me at: matheismd @ yahoo.com thanks! nikolaus

Hello All!!! I am interested in picking up a player-only unit and am especially interested in the following... Kenwood Q-Series (Q33, Q55, Q77) Panasonic MJ9x Series (MJ90, MJ95, MJ97, MJ99) Sharp DS8 (might be interested in a DR80, as well) Unit must be fully functional and in good physical condition, with at least the main unit, remote, battery, external battery case, and ac adaptor or charger. PM me if you're interested in making a deal Nikolaus

oh yeah, i stand corrected about panas having weaker output than the other units. after a bit of research, it turns out that pana just quotes their output with odd specs. so, when you see 2.5mW x2 channels, it's actually 2.5mW per channel at 50ohms. sony quotes their output as 5mW per channel at 16ohms and sharp at 5mW per channel at 32ohms. so, pana is actually around 5mW per channel at 25ohms, putting it in between sony and sharp in output power. and, i had the mr220 for awhile. it was a pretty cool unit! i liked the slider the remote needed some work, though! the non-mdlp mr200 was a nice unit, as well - and had the cool slider. i preferred the remote from that unit! the background behind the lcd screen pulled inside the unit when the remote is placed in the hold mode, leaving the lcd screen see-through!!! i think i saw a mr200 and mr220 on e-bay this morning, and they had some time left on them. i doubt they'll get too high in price. i was outbid in the last couple of hours for a pana mj75 last night sold for a whopping $50 and included 15mds. hope the person who snagged it has a recorded and recharger, as the unit doesn't actually charge the battery - you need a separate charger or another md unit. later nikolaus

i've owned many brands and models of md equipment, so just a note to you regarding some of the players/features you mention... the speakers on charging stands are not very good (i'm being generous here, too) panasonic has a nice eq for "brighter" music but doesn't pack much punch when it comes to powering higher impedance headphones sharp is my second favorite in terms of sound quality but gets used the most kenwood is my favorite in terms of sound quality, however they have a few quirks that drove me away (like when you pause, there is no auto shut-off so it stays on forever - so you think you'll hit stop to kick in the auto shut-off but then playback starts back at the beginning of the song you were on - not at the point you stopped at like every other brand) (or like it gave me read errors on md's that my sony, sharp, and pana's could read just fine) - but in terms of pure sound quality, they kick ass!!! if it were me, i'd think of picking up the ds8 that audiocubes has for ~$170 usd right now. i owned one for quite awhile. it's pretty darn small, sounds good, is a sharp looking player (pun intended), and you'll get a one-year warranty (if something goes wrong, send it to audiocubes and they'll get it fixed or repaired for you). later nikolaus

amen to that!!! a few states in the usa have implemented laws completely banning corporate campagin contributions. of course, the corporate elites are still free to contribute, but usually states with corporate restrictions also severely restrict the dollar amount an individual citizen can contribute. in the state of oregon, we're working on campaign to put a hard limit on the amount of money any one entity can contribute in total to campagins per year. some municipalities in the usa are wrking to severely restrict corporate charters so that they have a detailed definition of what the corporation will accomplish and the time frame for dissolution of the charter. this is the way in which corporations were viewed by the "founding fathers" in the usa - time-limited and task-specific. also, us corporations are given the full rights of an individual citizen here in the usa - including free speech rights (of which campagin contributions are the primary use). this right was given to corporations by a us supreme court clerck in the late 1800's and was not in the actual ruling of the us supreme court - only in the abstract summarizing the case. coincidently, the court clerck was a railroad man (if my memory serves me correctly) and would have benifited greatly from this in his business dealings. i hope people partaking in this discussion have seen "the corporation" (a great documentary on the powers of corporations in the usa and around the world) and are following the bludgeoning of workers aorund the world through use of wrold bank and international monetary fund so-called "economic reforms". i also suggest checking out www.counterpunch.org and www.zmag.org as two great resources for activism in the fight against the corporate leviathan!!! nikolaus

all depends on the context, i think. in my neighborhood in portland, or - a local property owner signed a long-term lease with walmart in an area known for it's local artists, great restaurants, and antique stores (not to mention strong community spirit). in oregon, an initiative passed whereby a property owner can now be compensated if governmental action diminishes his/her property value (or money gained from property usage). so, here we have an under the radar lease with walmart, which the community has come out strongly against but since governmental intervention has been strongly curtailed by passage of the initiative, the walmart will likely go in, providing low-paying jobs with poor (or no) health care, congest our streets, and harm local businesses. so, i'd say that in this case, i'd definitely prefer governmental intervention to stop the property use that the owner desires. not quite what the original topic is, but closely related - i think. the supreme court ruling does seem weighted to moneyed interests, which is unfortunate. what we need is more community involvement and awareness! i mean if the government is going to intervene, it should at least do so to further the best interest of the majority of people in the affected community. instead, it always works out to the best interest of the moneyed elites...

oh...so you're molater, eh! i think i knw that at one time but fogrot. that was before the mdcf had taken off & the t-board was all the rage with the cool kids well, thanks then worked like a charm!

guess i'm just paranoid about my md's then. i've always used the write protection tabs - even going back the my pre-netmd days

toothpaste works pretty well, too. just put a small dab of toothpaste on a q-tip, get very slightly damp, and rub in circles over the scratch. took out some scuffs on my mz-n10 lcd cover with this method (at the prompting of a minidisc t-boarder, back in the day). might be worth a try with the rh10. certainly a better price than a ~$15 "scratch removal kit"! just make sure you use regular toothpaste and not the baking soda or whitening kind - they'll have more grit and could lead to more fine scratches. regular toothpaste is very fine and worked well for me. good luck! nikolaus ps, after that put a plastic cover on it!!! i got a couple of small, fine scrathces on my rh10 recently. i just cleaned it off with hot breath / shirt method & palced a palm pilot screen protector over the left half of my rh10. visibility is not impaired (or at least not much) and i feel confident that it will protect the oled well and for quite some time.

so, it looks like bwerbrou's confirmed that you can get the hi-md's apart without trashing them too badly. that's a good sign. i might have a crack at it this weekend when i've got some time then. thanks for the update on that. regarding the rear hole. if you epoxy it so that it's permanently filled in, don't you run the risk of accidently erasing the material at some point? perhaps i'm just being paranoid, but i think the tape method sounds more cautious. it's what i used to do with cassette tapes after recording them - break off the tabs and then put tape over them if i wanted to erase/record again. later nikolaus

i look forward to hearing back about whether or not you think the hi-md cases can be salvaged!

so the hi-md cases are glues together? i guess that's okay for the most part. i have some of those memorex colr series md's that start to pop apart after awhile i'll have to think about prying the hi-md's apart then! do y'all think there's any hope of getting 'em apert without breaking them?

so, this looks interesting! i have lots of regular md's and several hi-md's and wouldn't mind trying this out. i like bwerbrou's job with gluing it together and using the hi-md shutter. i'm wondering how you distinguish your "new" hi-md blanks, valder? i'm also wondering if you (valder) had problems getting the hi-md disc apart? bwerbrou mentioned breaking the case to get at the hi-md disc inside. i'd like to be able to use all of the discs and am leary of taking them apart if i only get one good hi-md out of the deal (no matter how stylish it now looks) and end up having to throw the regular md away because the hi-md case is too broken to put it in. i still use old md's in sp mode in my auvi shelf unit and need a stash on hand for new cd->md dubs. hi-md is more for listening to at work (so i don't have to have so many md's around) and for live recording. anyway, if you can give me a little reassurance that i can get two functional md's out of the deal, i might be up fo giving this a whirl thanks! nikolaus

bah!!! if you want to record live, the glowing blue display of the rh10 is a godsend!!! i shudder when i think of the dark days (pun intended) of live recording, when i had to try to aim my dr7 at whatever light source might be present (usually none) to try to ge the recording levels right. with the rh10, i just sneal it out of my case logic case momentarily, check the record levels, put it back, and enjoy the show last time i recorded a live set, the security was busy chasing people with camera phones & never bothered me, even when they passed me by while i was checking levels! try that with an n1 & a FLASHLIGHT

over in this thread i talk about something similar. i recorded a concert in pcm with auto track-marking on. after hearing about problems with track-marks and glitches between tracks, i combined the tracks in ss3.0 before editing in an external program. i then saved the file as several tracks and imported them as wav files into ss3.1 (upgraded) and transferred to md as hi-sp files. this introduced glitches between tracks. i also tried this with the good-ol' dino's nero-simpleburner method and found that when i created a cd image of the tracks and loaded that into simpleburner i didn't get any glitches at all. i could see a difference in the two different methods in the album times, as well. even though they were he same album, the ss3.1 transferred album was 2 seconds longer due to repetition of material. so, i'd suggest loading the split tracks into nero and making an image file and then using simpleburner to get them back on md as necessary for glitch-free playback hope this helps! nikolaus

think i figured it out. i thought of one other non-common parameter, which is that i used a different transfer method for the two versions of the concert (non-eq & eq). for the non-eq version with no glitches, i used the nero-simpleburner method. with the glitch-marred eq'ed version, i imported the wav tracks into ss3.1 and then transferred as hi-sp. i think that using ss3.1 gave me the problem. i'm going to try again using the nero-simpleburner method for the eq'ed version and see if the glitches are still there. then i'll know whether it was the eq-ing or the ss3.1 hi-sp conversion/transfer that gave me the glitches. if it is ss3.1 giving me the glitches, i'll be one happy camper as far as the concerts go

hello all! i recorded several concerts last week with my rh10 (some were recorded hi-sp and some pcm) and uploaded them to my hard drive via ss3.0 the one i'm discussing right now was originally recorded in pcm. after upload, i used the ss combine function to make them all one track and exported the combined file as a wav. i opened it up in goldwave, dropped in some cues, normalized, split the file at cues and transferred to md as hi-sp tracks. these worked fine but the sound was a bit muddy/boomy. so... i went back to the original wav file (w/cues but no normalization) and played around with the eq settings a bit. i ended up substracting some from the low-mid bass, more from the upper bass and low-mids, and adding a touch on the high-end. sounded great then i normalized, split the file at the cue points and transferred to hi-sp. it now sounds much better. but... there is a split-second glitch in between the tracks that isn't there in the non-eq tracks - not good. any ideas as to why eq-ing would add the glitch? any ideas on how to fix this? two routes that come to my mind are eq-ing and then saving as one file instead of splitting at cues and transferring the monster file over to hi-md and splitting it up there. can i do that directly with the rh10? or do i have to convert the wav file to hi-sp and then divide in ss? i really don't want to do that because i can't see any graphical data such as levels or exact time in ss. or i can just leave it as one long file after transfer, thinking that i'll probably only listen to it as one long track. let me know if you have any ideas. thanks! nikolaus

well, i used the edit->combine function in ss3 to combine the tracks before sending them out as a wav file. we'll see how that works. i then put them into goldwave and found logical spots for track marks and split it up into individual tracks. then i'll normalize the tracks. i know, not all at once (bad me) but some of the tracks were w/music and some solo rap w/no music so quite a bit of volume swing. i'll normalize the solo stuff quiter than the stuff w/music but not as quiet as it would've been if i'd normalized the whole thing at once. hopefully it all goes well. and from now on - no track marks during live recording anymore! seemed good w/manually recording to hd but not as good w/direct uploading. later nikolaus

hello i'm wondering if anyone knows when agc kicks in when recording through the line in. i'm assuming it isn't compressing all the time - but only when levels are getting too high. in this thread i describe how i recorded a concert with my new rh10 with a battery module through the line-in with the agc function on. it doesn't sound compressed, though. the levels don't get too high when using the battery module, so i'm wondering (and greenmachine postulated) that maybe the levels weren't high enough for agc to kick in. the levels seemed to max out a couple bars before 0dB - so maybe the agc setting didn't kick in? anyone have any ideas about this? if i could use the battery module and agc setting and still get a good recoring level when recording live - and not have agc sompression kick in - it would simplify recording. thanks! nikolaus

it certainly might be the case that it didn't kick in the agc, even though it was on that setting. i think the battery module does a good job of keeping the levels low enough to not distort. it has been a rare occasion when i had to back off from max input levels when using the battery module with the line-in on my dr7. might be an interesting post to get some responses to on its own. from memory, the recording seemed to be maxing out at 1-3 bars below the 0dB level, so i don't think that increased noise floor should be too much of an issue. i'm hoping that the sony engineers come out with a firmware fix for the hi-md character input issue and also institute recording manual vs agc as a memory item, eg it stays where you set it instead of defaulting to agc. another good firmware addition (if the rh10 is capable of it) would be to have the 30sec delayed recording that the dr7 has. that's a nice feature that has saved the beginning of several concerts for me. hopefully sharp will come out with a hi-md recorder soon with the good features of the dr7. if so, i'll probably be purchasing one thanks for the input so far! nikolaus

i usually use my dr7 for recording and have never used agc before. given that this venue wasn't ear-bleeding loud, i think everything went pretty well by using the battery module in conjunction with agc. i've never edited through ss before. is it as easy as using my md units? and i guess the point i was making is that i've done this type of cut & paste with wav files before and never had any problems remaining gapless (perhaps because i use nero?) and think that combining them before might be overkill unless it's easier than just cut & pasting in an audio editing program. thanks! nikolaus

hello just made my first live recordings with my new rh10 over the last couple of days and have a question or two. first, the specs... rh10 line-in-> sound pro's mini power module w/bass roll-off set to 69kHz -> sound pro's omnis rh10 set for 5min track marks concert number one: three acts in hi-sp with acg concert number two: two acts in pcm with acg i want gapless playback from these, as the concerts were continuous play. i uploaded the first act from concert number one and used hi-md renderer to convert to wav. so, it's in several tracks now in hi-sp and wav on my computer. in the past, i've just used my audio editing program (goldwave) to cut & paste the tracks together to get one continuous wav file after recording to my hard drive. this worked fine. in the hi-md upload faq, i noticed that kurisu mentioned combining tracks in ss3 before converting to wav for gapless palyback. is there any benefit to doing it this way instead of splicing them together w/audio editing software? also, i'd like to raise the overall ratio of mids & highs in the concerts, as the venue was pretty bass-friendly. i'm figuring that subtracting bass is better than boosting mids & highs? then normailize & burn the cd or make hi-sp w/virtual cd -> simpleburner. sound right? thanks! nikolaus

man, i think sony really needs to start sending us units to beta-test