MDX-400

Where are you located? Canada, UK, USA? Elsewhere? I know that in Canada/US it is usually faster to return a warranty item directly to one of Sony's factory repair centres (or to a factory-authorised service centre--independent local shops that can handle Sony warranty claims). However if you're in the UK or somewhere else I'm not sure how warranty claims are processed. The A3000 is not a valid USA model and I don't think Amazon.ca sold it, so I'm guessing you are in the UK?

The A1200 should not be modifying the sound coming from the file it is playing, particularly in terms of L/R separation. The face that you're getting the effect you mention is most likely due to the way the original file was recorded/encoded. The best way to fix that would be to fix/modify the original file(s) causing the problem. Surely it can't be that way with all files you playback, can it?

Hmm something weird is happening there it seems. How long are you waiting before the useage spikes? Your computer's CPU is not that slow. Considering 0-1% useage of a P4 2.6Ghz, that's still nowhere near 50% of a P4 1.8Ghz. Given we don't know the bus speeds here and there are slight differences with P4 generations, that isn't really a big deal talking about a 1% CPU load.

Huh??? It's a whole new model year that's why. GTxxx means nothing. If you wanted to go by model numbers you'd have had a thread going from like 1992-2002 with CDX-Cxxx models... We have a new thread everytime some new random flash player model set comes out, sometimes even one for individual players (and there are like 50 of those released a year ) so why would we have one thread for car audio models w/ATRAC support; and at that covering years of model lineups? Talk sense!

What are you using to check the CPU useage?

Not automatically. You have to go to Format and Initialise HDD in the menu (if it's the same procedure on the HD5 as it is on the HD3). If you don't do that, you will likely get the "database not found" error on the screen.

As I remarked on the T-board, Sony had already done this a year ago (in terms of their car support for Walkman), when they decided to make the XA-110iP instead of a Walkman adapter. This is certainly no surprise. When someone finds the press release and descriptions for the new 2007 car HU lineup however, I think we should start a new thread for that instead of having a thread which starts out with 2006 units and then mentions the 2007 units later. This thread is essentially a year old...

If you format the old drive with Windows, in a different format than the HD5 would have used then no the HD5 won't be able to use that drive again until you reformat it with the HD5. That is it will work again, but you'll have to format it in the HD5 for you to do so.

Nope, it's just you, LOL. I just tried and sure enough SS and it's modules take up like 0-1% of CPU useage when idle. Nothing anywhere near what you're getting. I have no idea why it's doing that for you. Maybe check for viruses?

1. Whatever format you want to use, lol; provided the player supports it of course. What model/capacity player did you get? 2. If you plan on using ATRAC3/3plus then yes you'll have to use SS for all ripping. If you plan on using MP3 then I'd recommend using something like EAC to rip from CDs and LAME to convert to MP3 (LAME and any other command line encoder is supported in EAC, so it can be done in "one step".) 3. No, not in my opinion it isn't. Some people use rates that low but I wouldn't personally. But again, back to #1, use whatever you like yourself. 4. Yeah sure, it's not a big deal, put the folder wherever. If you're ripping to ATRAC3/3plus WMP won't be able to read the files though really. Well actually it will if you have the runtime/library installed but it won't show track information for ATRAC IIRC. 4.5. Yeah you can transport data no problem, the device will not get "confused". Deleting music quickly on the other hand, you'll want to stick to SS to do that so you don't run into problems. SS isn't really that slow at deleting music but just don't go trying to find the music files on the player and delete them because it probably isn't a good idea. 5. GYM is used only to get MP3s (not ATRAC files) and transfer them back to the PC; and to play MP3 files on your device, AFAIK. If you plan on using ATRAC3/3plus GYM isn't really a good idea (as it will mess up your ATRAC files on the device). Honestly I don't see what Sony hasn't told you in the instructions though...

That is insanity! No question about it. I don't get how that thing is worth that much. Computer stuff depreciates, from the day it's released and that thing is so obsolete it isn't funny. Brand new or not, there's something seriously wrong with people willing to pay that much for something like that; and that's all I have to say about that.

On the Connects2 website forums a lot of people seem to be saying they are getting their products from a store called "Halfords" I think. So you might want to see if you can find one of those when you're in England. Also you can try the Connects2 website http://www.connects2.com to see if they have a list of distributors; or you can visit their forums and ask there...

Review is now here: http://www.atraclife.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2999

Intro: As a little introduction this is probably my first review ever on one of the MD/ATRAC-related forums, so don’t kill me if it’s not perfect. Questions are welcome! One main reason for this review is because another user here had posted a mainly negative review (which I refuted at the time as well) and I thought I would add my own review as well. I’ve been using the Connects2 unit for over a month now and it has served me very well. This device goes under several model numbers: ASONWHD001 / MSC-01 / AHD-D001 but they are all actually the same thing. The newest firmware (which is NOT user-upgradeable but requires return to Connects2 UK for programming) supports the NW-A series HDD players as well. Though I don’t have one of these I was told my unit does have that firmware revision on it. It’s also supposed to support MD Walkmans and though I haven’t tried all of mine with it, I have tried a few and they all seem to work perfectly with it I heard about this device quite some time ago and posted information about it way back then on a few forums. Wasn’t much interest but I was determined to get an NW-HD3 and this device at some point. Well finding an HD3 was easy enough but this interface took some time. Firstly Sony was supposed to make their own interface but they never did, opting to make an iPod adapter instead of all things (the XA-110ip). However Connects2 had been making this interface and an iPod interface for UniLink HUs for quite some time. There was a Connects2USA division (that was really just Aardvark Multimedia in the US distributing the product) but Aardvark decided to drop the line and these interfaces are no longer sold in retail chains in the US I was lucky enough to find someone selling one (steeleuk) here on the forums and bought it from him (and at a pretty good price I would add!). The box arrived and, well, here’s the review! Box/Package Contents: Well the unit comes nicely packaged in a square box with a glossy “sleeve” surrounding it. Some pictures of Sony Head Units and Walkmans are pictured on it. Slide the sleeve off and open up the box and here is what you find inside: -Interface Box In the UK apparently these interfaces are known as Connects2 “little silver boxes” as they use the same type of shell for nearly every interface they have. I had previously thought they were made of metal however they are just silver plastic. Interestingly mine was missing a screw (?) but that’s of no consequence as the other ones hold it together fine. -Walkman-to-Interface cable This cable has the standard Sony miniplug + 4-pin remote connector (to connect to a compatible Walkman) on one side, and a 9-pin mini-DIN male connector on the other end. The only thing about this cable I didn’t like was the lack of length—it is only about 4 or 5 ft long I believe and some installations may require a longer cable. I could’ve used a longer one but I just put the box closer to the Walkman install location. It seems that you can extend it with an old-skool 9-pin mini-DIN Macintosh serial (M-F) cable. However those cable extensions are pretty hard to find, lol; and I didn’t want to bother getting one on eBay because shipping would make it like $20 afterwards… -UniLink Cable Connects the silver box to the HU/UniLink bus. It’s not an official Sony cable (you can tell just by looking at the ends) but it’s functionally fine. A little short as well but this one doesn’t need to be long anyway. -Pair RCA Cables Just a standard analog RCA cable here. Nothing special, pretty cheap dollar store type but does the job. I plan on replacing it whenever I find a Lightning Audio cable of the right length (as all the other RCAs in my car are LA Storm series ). -Instruction Manual This is a very thin 2 page square pamphlet type deal—not too informative but really it doesn’t need to be. You pretty much just connect up the thing logically (as you would any UniLink device) and it works—plain and simple! The pictures for connection are rather crude but the instructions that the [now defunct] Connects2USA provided (I previously dl’d these off the internet) were a little more in-depth for installation. However, if you can’t hook up a UniLink device on your own already then you might want to think about “professional install” lol--really though, it is very easy. The only instructions you really need to note are for the text output. If you leave the HU to play with no play mode it will cause the unit to output Artist text to UniLink’s “Disc Name” display and Track text to UniLink’s "Track Name" display. If you select the “Repeat” play mode you instead get Album text in place of Artist text, above. This seems a little strange but it really is interesting that they could do it this way--it works perfectly as well. Installation: Well mostly covered above… Very very simple install. Just connect it up as if it were a UniLink changer and off you go. UniLink cable connected to the HU (in my case I had to connect it to my Multi-Changer Adapter, but it worked fine with the MCA and shows up as CD device/changer #7 in my install). Connect the RCAs to the box and then to UniLink analog audio (again either to the HU or to the appropriate slave port in your UniLink system). Connect the other cable to the box and then connect the other end to your Walkman wherever you ended up “installing” or placing that. Pictures of my installation can be found at this thread: http://www.atraclife.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1334 And here is one copied over here to spice up the review, lol HD3 is velcroed to the mirror cover on my sunvisor and the cabling runs through the A-pillar. (The other thing beside the HD3 is simply a temperature display for the outside temp, btw). Operation/Features: Well here we get to what everyone’s probably waiting for! Keep in mind that the interface is limited in two ways. One, what the remote/phones port allows you to do on the Walkman itself; and, two, what UniLink allows you to do in terms of control/display options. First of all you set up your Walkman in the playmode you need it to be in (for HDD-based players that includes Album mode, Artist mode, Group mode, etc.) and then you’re supposed to max the volume on it. This was one of my initial main concerns about the device. Since you are using the remote port, the Walkman will not let you engage LINE OUT mode. This is Sony’s limitation, but a limitation nonetheless. At first it seems like it is going to affect sound quality, particularly through the maximum level you can get out of the unit. I was so concerned about this initially I had decided to get two HD3s and eventually attempt to hardware modify one so it was permanently in the Line Out mode. Thankfully I did not have to do this! I was thinking at one point that Connects2 could have done what Sony did with the XA-300 Aux-Input adapter… That device has two analog RCA inputs but one of them is cleverly designed to put a gain on the signal, meaning that if you have a device with only a headphones amp output (or an otherwise low line level) you can use the other input and have the signal boosted for better volume. I’m glad to report it seems like this is exactly what Connects2 have done! There is no real need for Line-Out mode with this device as it does indeed gain the signal from the Walkman. I found that setting the volume to maximum on my HD3 would easily clip the analog inputs of my XDP-210EQ processor! Therefore I can set the HD3 to about 80% volume and get a perfect line signal for the XDP. Next up you need to select the Connects2 box as your current CD changer. This is done on most Sony HUs by pressing the SOURCE button until you get to CD mode--"CDx"--and then pressing MODE until you get to whatever device the Connects2 box is. In my application I have to go to CD7 but if it's just a HU and this box you'd only need to hit MODE once to get to CD2 which would be the Connects2 interface. With that out of the way I ventured to use the unit with the HU. Well it works quite well I must say. Tracks skip forward and backward fine, as do albums (or artists or groups depending on what you set the player to). Text comes up properly/nicely and it actually seems to be able to throw commands on Sony’s UniLink that you don’t normally get. For example when you switch tracks it will actually flash the Artist (or Album depending on your selection mentioned in the other section above) momentarily and then display the track name (or go to whatever display you’ve selected on the HU). This isn’t normal operation but it’s actually quite a welcome addition! Scrolling works as it does normally on UniLink and with the A.Scrl option on the HU set to ON, it will scroll once and then stop. I had only a few instances where text seemed to stall or stop working all of a sudden and only the track time would display properly thereafter. Fixing this was as simple as changing a track manually and then text was restored. This does not happen often at all, but I did encounter it perhaps twice so far. Navigation other than track +/-, and disc +/- is not that easy but there is no facility in Sony’s changer protocol to do this really. However personally I find the track and disc control is all I need. This is exactly why I mounted the unit to my visor so I could navigate on the HD3 as normal (which is completely possible/permissible with the interface hooked up, by the way--something which cannot be said for any iPod interface due to the way the iPod works in it’s different remote modes). Another interesting feature I found one day when my HD3’s battery ran down was that the Connects2 module was smart enough to continuously flash “Low” as the Disc title and “Battery” as the Track title on the head unit! So if your battery goes low, it simply flashes “Low Battery” at you on the HU, so you know what’s up even when the Walkman is out of sight. Power control is another feature of the interface… When you turn on the HU (into any mode even not selecting the interface as your “current” changer) it powers up the Walkman and places it in standby mode. For this reason playback can start from the HD3 faster than you can get audio from a UniLink changer, in most cases! After the standard timeout on the HD3, the device will turn off if unused. If you are using the Walkman as the playback device and you turn off the HU/car, the Walkman goes back to stop/standby mode and again powers off once the time out has gone by as normal. The only thing a little quirky about it is if you didn’t have the Walkman as your playback device (and it was already powered down) and you turn off the HU/car then the Walkman actually powers up and goes back into stop/standby and then shuts down again after the time out. This is probably a little bit of a waste of battery power but it isn’t too big a deal. Unfortunately, unlike most iPod interfaces, this interface cannot charge/power your Walkman on it’s own. This is again because it has to use the phones/remote port which has no such charging facility. If you need to power your Walkman you will have to be powering it with the proper DC in voltage, from a DC-DC converter in the car. With the HD3 this proves a silly exercise since you need the stupid minidock. However on a device like the HD5 this might not be so bad since you have the DC in jack right on the player. As for the audio from the device, it really sounds great. Despite having to use the headphones amp, the slight gain you get from the interface allows you to match the normal line level quite well and therefore it performs very nicely. Overall the device is well worth the money, based on the US retail which was $105. It gives you very nice integration with a Walkman to your Sony UniLink HU and does everything it says it does. Unfortunately it isn’t available in North America any longer, though it seems PAC (another mobile electronics adapter manufacturer) has started to use Connects2 to OEM products for them. The PAC Sony-iPod interface is made by Connects2 but rebranded and the plastic colour is changed from silver to black. PACs site does not list the Walkman adapter however, which is a shame especially considering Sony already makes an iPod interface for their HUs. Perhaps PAC or another company will start distributing this interface in the US. I guess it may be a little moot as even the A3000 is obsolete now as we await a new Sony player. Well that’s the end of my review anyway, pretty long I guess! Summary: Unit: Connects2 ASONWHD001 / MSC-01 / AHD-D001 Walkman-to-UniLink Car Audio Integration Adapter Company Website: http://www.connects2.com (UK) Price: $105 US, though no longer marketed in the US. Features: Provides complete integration for Sony Walkmans to Sony car audio head units with UniLink control. Allows for text display, as well as track and album skipping/control from the Walkman, on the head unit. Review Info: Product used with Sony CDX-C7850 Head Unit (1998 model) in a UniLink system with 2 other CD changers, an MD changer, XA-300 Aux Adapter, MCA, and XDP-210EQ UniLink Processor. Pros: -Great interface, text and control work very well. Walkman need not be in sight, except for more advanced navigation. -Low Battery warning transferred to head unit indicates intuitive and well thought out design. -Gain added to volume to compensate for Sony’s line-out/remote limitation. -Good value--price point is competitive to other similar interfaces (usually for iPods) -Compatible with most Sony products with the standard Sony 4-pin remote port. Now works with NW-A1000/A1200/A3000 Walkman models. Cons: -Bundled cabling. Walkman to UniLink cable could be longer. RCA cables could be of a little higher quality. -Documentation/Manuals. Differences exist between the US market and UK market manuals; manuals not very in-depth. Granted, there isn’t much to the unit and it’s operation so the manual need not be much more detailed anyway. -In-Depth navigation must be done on the device itself, however this is a limitation of Sony’s UniLink head unit protocol, which was never designed to handle a mass-storage device like a Network Walkman. -Rare communication problems for text display.

Does it do this when connected to AC or does it do it when only powered by the battery? Because if it's the latter that's quite silly, lol. I mean how can it tell you the battery is missing if it has no battery power? LOL. Might be a intermettent open in the battery contact(s) or with some wiring or solder joints in the player Or the battery might be defective somehow...

Yeah I was guessing the HDD from the sounds of it. You can sometimes find the HDD cheap on eBay if you look around but LOL that's eBay again... Another thing you could do would be to try selling it as is for some money for someone else to repair if they wanted or for spare parts. You probably won't get much for it, but it's better than throwing it out...

LMAO! As if you'd see any Sony player like that with "MP4 Digital Player" written on it I think the only players I've seen like that with stupid text like "MP4 player" on them are cheap, crappy, Chinese knock-offs. Usually they have some off-brand name and look like Apple products (like the Nano) but this one is funny. Sony? LOL, as if. Shocking that they'd actually use the Sony name on them. They could have at least tried ZONY or something! "MP4 player" has to be the stupidest name too. There's this guy at work who has one of the knock off Nanos and he goes around calling it an "MP4 player" like MP4 means superior to MP3 or something, hahaha; meanwhile its really a POS compared to the Nano...

How does it react when connected to a PC? From the sounds of it, it seems like the HDD might have failed It'll probably cost more to repair than to find another good condition one on eBay and buy that instead (or replace it with another player). Depending on what really is wrong you could fix it yourself but obviously you need to first figure out what exactly is the issue and second you'd need some skills/knowhow in replacing something like the HDD (if that's the problem).

Hmph! Still no blue HD3, lol...

So how much will you be selling that E720 for? What colour is it? Condition, pics?

The information is correct yes, but again I don't think this is the case with all Li-Ion cells/batteries. Still what you're showing is examples of where the battery is subjected to things such as over-current, over-temperature or overly deep discharge. None of these relate to charging or using a nearly identical battery in the HD5. In fact there are probably normal production differences that are larger/the same between two LIP-880s as there are with one LIP-880 and one of the BST-33s. Since they don't relate to anything we're discussing here (using a BST-33 in an HD5) what's the point of mentioning them? Believe me it's not a big deal. Li-Ion differences and tolerances were quite crucial way back in the day when Li-Ions were first being used in consumer devices. Then the batteries and electronics were relatively expensive and they were only used in certain electronics. Now the technology is quite cheap and tons of manufacturers are making Li-Ion batteries and chargers--it's definitely nothing special or delicate in this day and age. Furthermore the batteries of today are higher quality overall, more reliable, and far less susceptible to charger and device differences. Even if the battery stops working you lost what? $10? Not really that big a deal. Plus it isn't like there aren't high quality BST-33s out there either--you could always buy a genuine OE one as well. Might not be any cheaper than the LIP-880 but it's probably easier to find I'd imagine. The bottom line is the batteries are pretty much the same and they're safe to use either way (LIP-880 in the BST-33 charger/device and vice versa). Talking about a difference in rated capacity of a mere 20mAh and an accepted difference in nominal voltage specification thinking those things are going to cause something catostrophic to happen is pretty over the top if you ask me. Again normal production differences are probably larger than that in different batches of the same battery model, so there's nothing to worry about.

Usually, charging-while-playing does not function exactly as you describe. Think of the battery as the storage device in the circuit, then think of the unit's internal charging circuit as the power deliver/recharger. The battery is like a buffer of sorts... Just as in a car, however with a more advanced charge controller due to the difference in battery chemistry. So when you charge and play current is still going only one way however instead of having all the current go to charging the battery some (actually usually most) of the available current from the power supply goes to powering the unit. The excess current that doesn't need to be used to run the device will "go to" the battery, to charge it. So it's not as if you were "powering the unit with the battery and charging the battery with the charger", rather you're both charging and powering the unit with the power supply but since there is a limit of current available, some goes to the device and the rest goes to up the storage level in the battery. So charging is slower that way. The one thing that puts you at a disadvantage with doing this is that if the unit gets warmer that way so will the battery, and as we know Li-Ion degrades more over time with higher temperatures. Hence why laptop batteries fail relatively quickly--the temperature inside a laptop gets quite warm and leaving the battery in there, particularly when plugged into the wall outlet (when you don't need the battery) kills it faster. With a small portable audio device there is much less heat and the bttery probably won't get that warm; however it will be warmer than without being plugged in and will likely reduce it's overall life somewhat, if not to a large degree.

WTF? What's funny about this thread is that people keep presenting these huge misconceptions about batteries that are way out in left field and then sokomind keeps correcting people and then people manage to add more each time?!?! First of all the 3.6V and 3.7V "difference" is no difference at all. Either is acceptable for an Li-Ion or Li-Ion-Poly cell, for what we call the nominal voltage. You must understand that if the OCV (open circuit voltage) of the cell is near that voltage, the device will usually not be able to run as the capacity of the battery will be exhausted... Yes that's right, if you see 3.7V or 3.6V as the OCV on a Li-Ion, that battery is most likely "run-down". All single-cell (or parallel combination batteries) that are Li-Ion will have a nominal voltage stated as being either 3.6V or 3.7V. The .1V difference is of no consequence at all. Also I've never heard of protection circuits causing "pernanent shut-down" of the battery... How exactly would that be accomplished? It's true that some Li-Ion batteries (particularly when more than one cell is involved) have built-in ICs that communitcate with the charger. However that is designed to tell the device when to cut-off--I've never heard of one that could somehow cut off the battery's connection to the terminals permanently. Also not every Li-Ion has such an IC in it, many do not and the charge/power control functions are all handled within the device. This is often (though perhaps not always) the case where the battery has only two terminals (+ and -) instead of 4 or more terminals (which most IC batteries would have). Most Li-Ion-Poly (pouch) batteries have no IC at all and even when cells are paralelled, the power control is performed by the device using the battery. Anyway the end of all this goes like this... Both batteries in this situation will work and charge perfectly fine given the fact that it seems they are physically identical and both the same chemistry type and voltage (again the .1V is meaningless here). If the other battery is rated for 20mAh more, if that rating is truthful, it should last longer. However note those are also nominal or "typical" ratings as well. So you could have a battery rated for 880mAh which (when new) provides 920mAh in reality; at the same time one rated for 900mAh may only give 880mAh or similar. (Unless those are "minimum" ratings.) Again however, there should not be any problems with either. If there were, the device would refuse to charge and/or give an error message, which does not appear to be the case here...

It's not permanently fixed, it's held by velcro. Couple peices on the visor, one strip on the back of the HD3. Otherwise I'd never be able to charge it or transfer to it, lol. Two peices on the visor make for more velcro-area for positioning

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I never did get around to adding pics as I said I would, oh so long ago. Anyway long story short I mounted the HD3 to the outside of my mirror cover on my sunvisor (with the help of velco--I know it sounds ghetto but it looks really quite nice IMO). I had it running through my XA-300 Aux Input Adapter but I eventually got the Connects2 interface (thanks to steeluk!) and it works great (I'm gonna submit a somewhat updated but short review of the device in the other section momentarily). Anyway enough talking, here's the pics (added some of my car interior in general to get a gist of how everything goes together ). Note the quality of the pictures and quality of photography may not be the greatest they were just some quick snaps I took one day as I thought I should take some, lol. Actually probably the first time I'm posting pics of my own ever! Connects2 Box & Contents, Model # ASONWHD001 / MSC-01 / AHD-D001 [All the same model]: Connects2 "Little Silver Box": Full Left Car View: Sunvisor (Notes: the other thingy beside the HD3 is a temp readout for OAT; note that the HD3 is playing back the track "Endlessly, She Said" by AFI) Visor Closeup: Centre Dash, High; CDX-C7850 w/"AFI" text shown: Centre Dash, High; CDX-C7850 w/"Endlessly," text shown (remainder must be scrolled): Centre Dash (Climate & MDX-400 View): Centre Dash (MDX-400 & Shaker Control View): Centre Dash (MDX-400 & Shaker Control View): Well hope those look good! (I noticed some slightly jagged edges after resizing But they still look okay I think). Car sound setup is as follows, in case anyone was interseted: Source Gear: Sony CDX-C7850 mobile ES Head Unit Sony MDX-400 4-MD Indash Changer (UniLink Slaved, Digitally Connected) Sony CDX-T60 mobile ES 6-disc CD Changer Sony CDX-828 mobile ES 10-disc CD Changer (Digitally Connected) Audio System Accessories: Blaupunkt CDC-Bridge (Rebadged Sony XA-U40 MCA--makes more than one changer a reality) Connects2 ASONWHD001 Walkman Integration Adapter Sony XA-300 Tri-Input Aux-Input Adapter Soundgate GMSW1 Steering Wheel Controls to Sony Wired Remote Protocol Adapter Aura Bass Shaker Control Knob Processing: Sony mobile ES XDP-210EQ 21-band EQ/DSP (Digital Domain Crossover and Time Alignment) JVC KS-N60 Electronic 6-Way Crossover (providing bi-amp facilities ) Front Stage: Focal Polyglass 165V 6.5" Component Set Subwoofer: elemental Designs e12a.22 12" Subwoofer, in ported enclosure tuned to approx. 26Hz Bass "Assist": Aura AST-2B4 Bass Shaker x2 (1ea. mounted under driver and pax seats) Amplification: Aura RPM3004 (85Wx4 RMS @ 13.8V), Biamplifing Focal set Aura Class-D Digital Bass Shaker Amp (50Wx2 RMS) Aura RPM3002 (~300Wx1 RMS), Temporary Sub Amp... Vechicle: Well let's see who can guess what it is from the interior shots!