Jump to content

A Solution To Blankdisc And Recording Problems.

Rate this topic


Recommended Posts

On 5/25/2020 at 10:54 PM, sfbp said:

Ok well done with that - certainly can't hurt. My own experience with the featherweight E909 was that I had to fiddle with it several times to get it back together perfectly, but when I did, the (resulting?) lack of mechanical resistance means that the battery lasts forever, as it should with that model.

I think maybe time to do some adjustment. You'll mainly need a regulated powersupply capable of sourcing exactly 1.2 volts (the minimum acceptable voltage for gumsticks).Once you have all the electrical checks done, then you can try the self-alignment routine, if that didn't make the difference.

I cleared the NVRAM, performed the electrical adjustments, item 764 (V1PWM) was 2.28V instead of 2.30V. I adjusted it successfully to 2.30V, but now I have a bigger problem. I cannot pass the automatic CD adjustment anymore, it gives me 324 NG 00   0 00 error, which from my understanding is traking error. The manual recommends to perform the laser check and set the LrefPw, HrefpW and WritPw, but I don't have any laser power meter to test the power. Also, the temperature compensation value that I set is always reset to default for whatever reason I don't get even if i press pause to save the values.

Bottom line: I cannot use my MD anymore, it now always enter test mode on powerup because the adjustements are not completed. Can you or anyone help me complete the adjustmnets to make it work again?

A thousand thanks!

Edit: How in the world should I measure the voltage drop on the R521 resistor during laser power adjustment when the resistor is just on the other side of the pdb when assembled toghether? Are they nuts for putting it on the other side?

Edit2: Can anyone with a MZ-R700 tell me the values for the above settings to get mine working again?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, sfbp said:

Still sounds mechanical to me. The CD test is by far the least demanding, and if it fails (I assume you tried it before and it worked) there's something seriously wrong.

Well, the self-calibration tests were working before I reset the nvram. I now need somehow to get the laser power back to normal to pass the tests, doesn't look mechanical to me.

Maybe the write was failing previously due to the low voltage on the laser and now after I get the calibration right it will work. The problem for the moment is that i cannot make sure the laser power is good to pass the self-calibration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"reset the NVRAM" is actually a misnomer. All they did, when you pushed the 911 emergency panic button was to reset a single byte in memory. Emphatically the NVRAM was not cleared. The laser power settings will not have been touched. All you did was to force a calibration.

My deduction is (FWIW, free advice is worth what you pay for it), you are having a similar issue to myself with the player I mentioned, that somehow things are not moving right. It turned out to be absolutely tiny variations in how I tightened the relevant screws when re-assembling.

 I'm curious, just how far did you strip it down?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...