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About sfbp

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  1. Reboot. Otherwise somehow there may be traces left of them and Windows will figure out to install them AGAIN. Make sure that there's only ONE NetMD file shows up in the display, and that it is the UNSIGNED one we gave you here that will work with all units. You can check the version number by inspecting the properties of the file before you install it and then check that this is the version that the installer is pointing to. You'll have to make quite sure you turn off driver signing for each device that you install with this driver. ie each time you install a new MD unit that requires the driver.
  2. Sorry in haste.... You have to get rid of all the copies of NetMD drivers from C;\Windows\inf It's necessary to search all oem<nn>.inf for ones with the NetMD... there will be a bunch ... and delete them.
  3. Reinstall SS. Over the top. No need to uninstall. Presumably the latest hack-panic-fix-autoupdate messed up something. Hopefully you won't lose any protected tracks, install should be ok at getting the rights back. However do not do not trust the system with protected tracks. Always put them through file conversion tool immediately if you can. And prevent updates until you did that.
  4. Yup I believe their silence in the manual is very telling. All the consumer decks have the screed about not making copies. I believe the E10/11/12 do not have that couple of pages Another device that defeats it is the Behringer Ultra Match Pro 2496 - as you pointed out. I decided with all the MD decks in this house, it would be better to get that than yet another deck for purely that feature. YMMV.
  5. all it takes is for someone to hit the track mark button and the disk is blank. Usually the ribbon cable cracks. Unless you have extremely good eyesight and an extremely steady hand with a soldering iron, I think this project is not for you. Better to buy something else.
  6. Busted overwrite head. Standard problem. Have to fix it or throw the machine away.
  7. oops, I forgot one more way. If you can get an HHB Portadisc http://www.ebay.com/itm/HHB-Portadisc-MDP500-Professional-Minidisc-Field-Record-/120834359500 This device DOES output a USB stream directly. Standard Play (SP) only, but that's what you have. Probably overkill unless your recording is VERY special.
  8. Yup well done. Stuck mechanism. Probably replacing the caps undid some sort of safety interlock, I bet you'll find they're not actually blown. Kind regards
  9. Note: most PC sound cards don't seem to care about SCMS. I would take the optical transfer instead of analogue any day of the week.
  10. There IS another way to get data off that disk. You can play it back through the optical out of a deck into a computer that will accept the optical input. This means a sound card in your pc which you might have to add. This will allow you to record in whatever format you feel like, since what is transmitted by optical is the standard 16-bit (or so) WAV format like a CD.
  11. Probably mechanism jammed or something short circuited. If standby light is red, then I would suggest: Unplug from mains. Now put into service mode by plugging in with both AMS and STOP depressed at the same time (page 4 of the manual). If that gets you nothing, then I'm wrong and it's the power supply. Disconnect the MD side and see what happens. Sounds like you have this in hand by the stuff you've ordered already. One person on here DID have the identical problem in the last 12 months. I don't have time to find it, but you should be able to. I think it was a capacitor. I've definitely seen decks suddenly do strange things and be perfectly fine after disconnecting from mains and fiddling about.
  12. Sorry, no self posted Ebay listings.
  13. I've wondered about this from time to time. Jim always was most sceptical saying the difference twixt 780 and 980 was a couple of screws and a plate. But from growing up in England my memories of all recordings is 50Hz hum. Maybe there's some real effect to do with that. My 980 has the aforementioned sticker (guess where it came from) and works just fine on 60Hz 117 volts (or so), of course with a transformer. Certainly the magic of Sony decks seems to be the way they clean up analogue input.....
  14. The 900 was the original "standard" (many people wouldn't spring for NH1) and there are lots out there. It has some issues with powersupply, typically the screen gets dim and needs to be adjusted, but on the whole is pretty reliable (and includes a mic socket which the NH600 and RH710 for example do not). A word of warning: do NOT under any circumstances put rechargeables in the AA battery case. All the happens is that the charging circuits get very confused. You need a decent 1.6 V. It may even be the way that some of these machines become unusable. The HQRP batteries for internal are currently widely available. I picked up a few and am extremely happy with them. That said, I have only ever given up on about 2 (out of 15 or so) regular Sony-or-OEM-replacement NiMH gumsticks (not the case for the Li-Ion... they simply die after a while). One more thing. Running any of these units with a dead or non-existent internal battery seems to deprive them of a certain buffering of the PS (Gyula from Budapest will probably tell me this is rubbish!). I recommend having a chargeable battery in the unit especially when transferring tracks TO the unit (with FROM, either it works or it doesn't - but with TO, you may end up wasting your effort). And if you don't need your RH1 for upload, I am sure there's folks here who would buy it off you just in order to do that, at less than the ridiculous prices people are asking on eBay,
  15. Avoid the NH1, it has known issues with the unique cable, and a battery (same as RH1) which costs BIG bucks to replace. I'd keep the RH1 for uploading to PC (of SP/LP2/LP4/Mono), the one thing that it and only it can do. It doesn't need a screen for that. If you're going MD, I would recommend the NH700 as it seems the most reliable. The second gen (RH10/910/M10/M100) make a lovely sound on playback but seem to have had more mechanical/electrical problems. And the NH700 takes AA's - a very strong selling point. Another way is switch to all-digital, the PCM-M10 or ICD-SX7xx/8xx/9xx. If you get Sound Forge 9 (or 10) which comes with quite a few different devices for free, you can use it to edit uploaded ATRAC especially HiMD formats. The only trick to that is to be able to decrypt the files first which you do from inside SonicStage using the file conversion tool (built in to SS). Finally, the question answered that you didn't ask - for playback, use none of the above but get a purpose built player-only (either HiMD or "loMD", the former can play both). This is good for several reasons: 1. you don't accidentally destroy precious recordings by pressing the track mark/record key 2. They are very solidly built (you will need to invest in a good charger and some brand new Gumsticks but these are available for a few bucks) and can be taken in more severe external environments like jogging (there's only one that even attempts to be waterproof, the MZ-S1 and I don't particularly recommend it). 3. There is much less to go wrong with the mechanics/electronics. MZ-EHxxx (HiMD) or MZ-Exxx, making sure in the latter case you get the ones that can play MDLP. MZ-EH70,MZ-EH50,MZ-EH930,MZ-E630 and so on.