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sfbp last won the day on January 25 2011

sfbp had the most liked content!

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About sfbp

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    Bridge, music, computers

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  1. Minidisc backlights on units

    It's fair to say that the original prices charged by Sony were definitely "premium". OTOH they generally made good stuff. If you want a player (ie no recording capability) try on that site for MZ-EH50, MZ-EH70, and MZ-EH630.
  2. Minidisc backlights on units

    would brand-new suffice? http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/e160880510 Kind regards
  3. Minidisc and new cars

    The only real solution for those of us who have vast libraries of ATRAC and don't want to convert to the markedly inferior MP3, is to get a (Japanese domestic market only) player that does Bluetooth and ATRAC. The NW-F887 is the ticket.
  4. You have to find the spot that's cracked and somehow solder a bridge over it without making the cable inflexible. All this with lead free solder and under a microscope, effectively. Very nasty, Start by measuring the resistance.
  5. Overwrite head not working. Probably cable fractured. (edit) You may have gotten the machine into an inconsistent state without actually busting anything. If so, taking out the battery and letting sit overnight, followed by plugging in to mains power may just reset things for you. I'm more concerned that you forced it open when it was trying to write the TOC. In the latter case, if you had waited a long time for the TOC writing to complete, then the damage was likely already done, so don't torture yourself. The cable to the OW head is known to fail on all these units. Extremely difficult to fix - but has been done on at least one of my units. PS I too have an R900 with exactly the same problem (I inherited it, was always busted from when I got it). It is used to blank disks which are otherwise difficult or impossible to blank (because of NetMD TRProtect flag).
  6. Charging the MZ-NF810

    Funny I had a machine in precisely this state yesterday, an MZ-N910. Hang in there and don't panic.
  7. Charging the MZ-NF810

    Take a look at the spring in the battery door (after carefully pulling off the plastic cover of the door). It's a contrary sort of beast - one might think that the little protruding bit is to contact the battery and needs to be bent down (toward the battery). NO! The prong is just a tensioner, to push against THE DOOR and force the rest of the metal into contact with the face of the nipple. Once you have grasped this principle, you may be able to get the contact to work. The other problem can be that the spot inside where the negative terminal of the battery sits needs some sharpening. You can only do this by taking the unit apart so that the whole of the battery compartment is visible. Needed: so-called "jeweller's screwdriver" set, not expensive and not hard to find. Zervun, your comments about the LIP-4WM are sadly irrelevant ("It's not irrelevant, it's a hippopotamus") as this battery is a NiMH and behaves entirely differently to something made with Li-Ion. The ones you can currently buy are by HQRP. See here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HQRP-Battery-for-Sharp-ADN55BT-AD-N55BT-Mini-Disc-MP3/260742544635 The other good news is that NiMH are not so dangerous to send from one country to another. Li-ion are becoming embargoed by many postal services (see the news yesterday for another smart phone which blew up in a plane's passenger cabin) which adds to the difficulty and expense, not to mention the rarity of the LIP-4WM. Generally the charge stands do not work as well as the direct prong from the wall charger. I have seen exceptions but the NF810 was not one of them. A mistake sometimes made is to put rechargeables in the AA sidecar. This doesn't work well and confuses the charging circuitry (I think). The device expects the external battery to be at a higher voltage than the internal rechargeable battery.
  8. MZ-RH1 (MZ-M200) Amazon MP3 256 quality

    I don't think even then you can drag-and-drop (except within SonicStage).
  9. MZ-RH1 (MZ-M200) Amazon MP3 256 quality

    ? I've never done this, but doesn't that prevent them from being played ? I'm pretty sure they have to be transferred with SonicStage. (see p.16 of manual).
  10. MZ-RH1 (MZ-M200) Amazon MP3 256 quality

    Did you format the disk NetMD or Hi-MD? There's something called "DISC MODE" which means the format of a blank disk will be one or the other, without specifically initializing the disk medium. The host disk has to be Hi-MD formatted. Also not ALL mp3's are transferrable, only sample frequencies of 32,44.1 and 48 Khz, with bit rates (fixed or variable) of 32 to 320 kbps.
  11. MDS-JE530 C13 intermittent

    Now I feel like a twit. It didn't occur to me that your sensor wouldn't fit. I just got my LP1 out of the box, and yes it's smaller. Is the BC20's sensor the wrong size for a portable OP too? Is it the shaft or the rectangular bit that doesn't fit? I see they have a lot of different sensors available, but I dread to imagine what Ophir wants to charge. Sad and puzzled S
  12. MZ-RH1 (MZ-M200) Amazon MP3 256 quality

    I've never been convinced that PCM is actually an improvement, being basically a marketing gimmick. All the ATRAC formats are 24 bit mantissa, 8 bit exponent logarithmic, whereas PCM is only 16 bits. Theoretically 352 should be the best format, then, although AAL is useful. However Hi-SP (256) is the highest bit rate that a unit will allow you to record, 352 is only available (as are 105 ATRAC3 LP3, 192 ATRAC3+ etc.) if you convert some other format using software.
  13. Minidisc backlights on units

    The remotes (eg RM-MC38EL) are nearly all backlit. Most of the portables are common-or-garden black on neutral LCD.
  14. Which external DAC/Amp for my NH700?

    It's a real USB port. But all you ever get FROM it (TO it there are other options, which is the essence of NetMD) is data. That data can be played back via a PC, but it still needs Codecs, DLLs, whathave you. There is no way to force the unit to "play just the music" digitally, over the USB output. The legacy disks (SP, MDLP) won't give you data at all... for that you need the MZ-RH1 (the only unit which has uploading facilities). You can get optical out from a DECK, the most compact of which is the MDS-PC3. Maybe this suits your needs? If you need something portable, then you cannot have digital output. If you need something digital, you need at least a PC and that PC's optical or coax (i.e. S/PDIF) output, or perhaps a deck (which will play the MDLP and SP formats but not the Hi-MD). I'm sorry it's so fragmented but that's the way things are. The only unit that I know which outputs "just USB data" is LUGGABLE, not portable. The HHB-Portadisc 500, I think it's called. And it only does SP, not any of the other formats.
  15. Which external DAC/Amp for my NH700?

    You can play the music recorded on your NH700 by hooking it up to a PC with an optical output. Other than that there's no direct digital out from the Hi-MD unit. Sony's software plays the HiMD disks nicely. Legacy (MDLP and SP) you are out of luck as the unit never sends those over USB toward the PC - one-way only.