NGY

Members
  • Content count

    188
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About NGY

  • Rank
    Versed

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

1,056 profile views
  1. Agreed.
  2. Yes, this is a way to make a copy of an audio content. I did not go this route, as I had the belief the OP wanted to "read that format and transfer the data through its USB output". Few things might be worth to mention: - making a copy via the digital audio output (should that be coaxial or optical) of a MD deck to a PC soundcard (or another MD recorder) will result a similar, but not exact copy. The digital signal on the optical (coaxial) output is a decompressed ATRAC audio, not the original ATRAC data. The copy on the PC will suffer another compression, whatever the format will be. The difference might well be marginal or even unnoticeable, I just wanted to make a note this is not a real transfer in the digital domain. - a copy via the digital output is only possible, if either 1) the original recorded material is a first generation digital recording, or 2) the receiving PC sound card can eliminate SCMS. - if the aim is just to save the audio content of the original disc whatever it takes (and sound quality is at second priority), then even a simple analogue copy is possible, once the disc is released and is found readable by another MD player device.
  3. "Full backward compatability with std-MD system -- records SP/Mono/LP2/LP4 format audio to std-MD discs and uploads std-MD recordings to PC in PCM, Hi-SP or ATRAC3 format audio files. Uploading is in no way restricted (unlimited uploads of mic, line and digital recordings are permitted)" [Quoted from here] Sony had always been making all efforts to restrict copying digitally recorded audio, and part of this they put limitations everywhere, on what and how could be copied. Although several HiMD recorders can play standard MD discs, only the MZ-RH1 is enabled to copy such discs to the PC.
  4. Yes, it is (given the conditions and disc you described). (As mentioned before) you may want to consult the SonicStage user manual (as well as the MZ-RH1 manual).
  5. My first idea was that the main processor detects an error and sends the standby signal to the relay driver circuitry. But there can be multiple other causes that led to this symptom. One thought: before replacing those filter caps, it might be worth doing an ESR check first. An acceptable ESR value might save the time of the replacement.
  6. I am afraid, the only device that can transfer this audio via USB is the MZ-RH1. And for that SonicStage is required (available from the download section of the forum). I will look into the MDS-JE302's service manual, to figure out how can a stuck disc be released. Yes, it is one of the first devices, and has one of the problematic mechanisms. The disc can definitely be removed, the question is just how much must the device be stripped down. One thought, without any intention of disappointing you: unless the audio on that stuck disc is something a unique recording like a live event or so, it may not be worth to take all the hassle of removing a disc, finding an MZ-RH1, installing SonicStage (can be a real pain, depending on the OS), and so on. Might be easier and faster to look for that music on the net, and download it. And it is not only the trouble, but also the sound quality - that deck had ATRAC 3, a very early version, with known limitations and artifacts.
  7. Can you share the make and model? Would help to figure out, how to release the disc. There are many, many MD players/recorders - decks, walkmans, etc., with different mechanisms. Success of the MD to PC transfer: it depends on how that disc was originally recorded/formatted. If it was a legacy MD recording (ATRAC audio), only an MZ-RH1 can transfer the content from the disc to the PC. If it was formatted as a HiMD disc, a couple of HiMD models can do the transfer (audio or data). (If it was a data MD disc by any chance, it would need a dedicated data MD player/recorder.) File format on the PC: you may want to refer to the SonicStage manual for possibilites (many) - you would need that software anyhow, for the transfer.
  8. Thanks for the link and the quote. Interesting reading, and makes sense. I could not notice a difference between the two 940-s though. True, I did not make any A-B switching back and forth listening tests, that would have probably given a good evidence. I will dig my photos out I took when compared the two units' internals.
  9. Great job, congratulations. I am getting envy now :-) !
  10. I wonder if anybody here has some comparison of the "regular" Euro/US/Japan vs. UK Sound/Edition (etc.) decks? I am really curious, whether it was just a marketing trick, or it does have to do with the sound. My observation is that the UK version 940 is actually missing a relatively large piece of circuitry (blank areas on the main board), that exists in the normal version. So the question is, it is the case of the "more with less"? Unfortunately, all my service guides discuss the regular versions only. If someone possess service manual(s) for the UK versions, I would love to read and compare them.
  11. Sounds a bit long. It is not a problem from resistance point of view, however, long cables can pick up electromagnetic noise, like an aerial. What you can do though is to fold the cable in Z or Omega shape, making sure the folded parts cover each other precisely - in other words, wires won't get over a neighbouring one, to avoid interference. And no need for very sharp edges, to avoid cracks. In your case keeping the 125 mm distance beetween the two ends you first make a fold at ~100mm, then at ~75mm from the first one, making the Z. In the middle you will have triple layers, consuming about 225mm of the length, plus ~25-25mm-s at the ends Once this is done, you may want to tie it together with a piece of adhesive tape.
  12. Yes, 0.5mm pitch 50 pin can make it in a 1mm pitch 25 pin socket. I found this, but looks tooo long: here. But that guy has other width/length, may be worth asking. What is the length of your cable, Chris? I can also check my spares box. And whether or not is it an inverted cable (contacts on one end are on the back side of the ribbon).
  13. That's right - seems both edges of the cable are damaged. Yes, NC stands for "not connected".
  14. I took a look at the schematic. The leftmost (topmost on the second photo) pin is for the -36V, that gives the cathode a negative charge (heating AC is delivered on pins 5 and 6). The Rec LED is driven from pin 24 (second from other end).
  15. Yes, this cable looks broken, and most probably not only the two left lines - see how the whole thing is wrinkled. Bad handling for sure, for several times. If you tell me which connector it is, I can check, whether or not it was the cause for the dark display. And such a cable you can replace yourself easily. New cables are available on ebay for example. Just look for the proper pitch (inches or millimeters beetwen two lines), if you don't find a cable with the exact number of lines, buy a wider one, and cut the excess wires using a pair of scissors. (There is a method of repairing such a broken cable, but it is kinda time consuming, plus requires thorough attention and an easy hand)