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NGY

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NGY last won the day on January 18

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  1. The latter. Regular component decks are not designed to work standing on their side. Their mechanisms rely partly on "normal gravity" - springs, magnetic hubs, disc doors, sleds, etc., to name a few components. Edit: apologies Kevin, we wrote at the same minute. I did not mean "smashing" on your post, I replied blindly to the op.
  2. I like your approach, Kevin, and yes, on the low voltage DC side the regulator circuits should be OK with even a 15...20% higher input voltage. However, the main risk here is at the transformer side. Not sure about Sony, but in the commercial goods world it is common to squeeze out the most possible performance using the least possible material. When it comes to an AC power transformer, we speak about a lot of iron and copper to be saved. Then, when you consider how a transformer works, a 10...20% increase in the AC voltage can result a much higher increase in the energy "pumped" into the transformer, and that "extra" converts to different kind of losses (iron core loss, copper wire loss, etc.), and ultimately, heat. Normally, such a transformer is designed to work near the limit of possible magnetic saturation of the core, to keep the size (= cost of the material) small. If you go over this limit, that's when problems happen. Same for the copper windings: the diameter of the wire is designed to bear the maximum current that particular device is expected to draw. But if you increase the voltage, with the same copper resistance, the current will increase, so will the heat generated inside the copper. On top of all, this is a non-linear function :-( . I.e., 10% more current (or voltage) means 20+ % more energy, and 20% more current means 40+ % more energy. We did not speak about electric and magnetic (also, audible) noises of an over-saturated transformer, or voltage swings on the AC net, that can take the input AC voltage way higher, than the nominal value. Example: it is not uncommon on the 230V grids, that the voltage occassionally goes up to 238...242V. I believe it is similar on the 100/110/120V grids too. Imagine, if a device meant to be used on a 100V line gets a - say - 125...126V AC input voltage on a 120V net.
  3. While I fully agree with Stephen and would not butcher such a nice deck, I might have a non-destructive solution for you. But it is not going to be a "free lunch" :-) . Without having the SM, first you would need to carefully lift the PSU board from the chassis, and take some good photos of both the component side and the soldering side. It would be also helpful to have the component side from a few different angles besides from above, as well as the solder side with a ruler held alongside next to the panel. I need to check a few things then I can tell if my idea works or not. Again, what I have in mind is non-destructive and fully reversible, so no worries. (To remove the PSU board you obviously need to unplug the AC cord first, wait about a minute or two, then disconnect both the AC cord's and the main board's PSU cable connectors, and finally unscrew all screws that hold the board/main transformer.)
  4. That's no good news then. Just for a quick countercheck, is this the same when you try to enter regular Service Mode? If you can enter Service Mode we can do some further checks. If you cannot, we must do some guessing and trial-and-error. [In that case - as always when we try to fix something remotely, some questions or hints may make no sense to you (that is, not a fault at your end :-) ), but please try to follow the path. I am not saying my method is "the" way, but what I write here is exactly how I would try to work if the faulty device was in front of me. As I don't see the machine itself, I can only work from what feedback I get from you, therefore it is important we are on the same page. And please forgive me if this small "preword" is completely unnecessary for you - I have already run into cases here when the person at the other end of the line was moving on a totally different path (of his thougths), that resulted a bit of chaos in analyzing the results and possible causes, that led to an unsuccessful repair process. Your questions, ideas and other important feedback are always welcome though.] Back to your 510: I am trying to separate these possible faults: - MCU - the main processor has some of its I/O ports directly wired to those ribbon connectors. As you wrote above, misalignment of a cable under power might cause some trouble. Having said that, these I/O ports are protected to a certain extent (with pull up resistors, and/or internal latches, etc.), so there is a good chance the MCU is still undamaged. - display - as you noticed, the VFD is driven by a special IC. This IC receives data from the MCU on a serial line, but even if that line is damaged, the rest of the deck might still be operable, independently from a dark display. - drive mechanism - partly controlled by the BD board logic, partly by the MCU, let's see what works and what does not. - OP - one of the most sensitive parts is the optical pick-up, highly sensitive to ESD damages. A broken OP - among others - can for example cause the loaded disc not spinning up. - rest of the MB - there are power regulators, analogue audio and digital signal switching circuitries there - I would not expect any of them being damaged, but may need some checks too. So our next step: you wrote you could eject a loaded disc. If the Eject button works, so should the FF/FR, Stop and Record buttons do, because they are on the same MCU control line. Now, if you can enter service mode, even with a dark display, you should be able to load a disc, and try to move the sled back and forth, as well as to lower the OWH onto the disc as if it was in rec mode, even if the disc is not spun up. Then pressing the Stop button would then lift the OWH. Please let us know if these work. Next: in normal mode (Power led green) load a disc, set the Timer switch to Rec, set the source selector switch to Analogue, then unplug the deck (or use the switch on the back panel). After 10...20 seconds, plug the AC cord back in, and observe what the drive does: i.e., it moves the head into rec position, or just ejects the disc after a while, etc. Let us know what you find. So much for now. If there are no results I am expecting here, we can only possibly move forward if you can have access to another, similar deck - more on that later.
  5. I have experienced a similar situation a while ago. It was a regular USB mouse, and the PC was not a VAIO, but the exact same thing happened. I tried several times to disable/uninstall/reinstall the mouse driver - but it did not help. Finally I concluded, that one of the applications (or, the OS itself) might have had some interference in the system settings. As I had no time to debug each and every software on the machine, I simply made a system restore from an earlier back up I knew had been working all good, then the error disappeared. I am not saying here this is "the" solution, but in my case it worked well.
  6. Hi Stan, welcome to the forums. These are all good signs of the device not yet being fully dead. That the power button works shows your MCU is alive - it is sensing some of the buttons and can control the standby/power on led, therefore, it seems it is not blocked by a fault somewhere, that would cause the MCU forcing the device stay in Standby. That the disc load/eject works shows that your BD board is alive (might have some faults though - to be figured out later on). Let's begin with the trivial stuff: - I would first check the two ribbons that connect the drive to the main board. On the 500/510 decks it is fairly easy to seat one of the ribbons the wrong way, at the main board end. The wider one is pretty straigthforward (i.e., short enough, and folded sharply), but the other one can be plugged 180 degrees twisted around (I faced this issue a couple of times, and luckily those decks always survived this mistake). Both ribbons' contacts should face the rear of the deck, not the front. In other words, the ribbon side with the writing on it is facing the rear, the plain white side is facing the front. - second I would check the front panel's ribbon, for contacts peeling off like this, or being damaged otherwise: - then there is a display/controls check mode you can try, to see whether or not your display driver is alive, and/or the MCU can sense all other buttons/switches, as well as the IR sensor. Turn the deck off with the switch on the back panel, press and keep the AMS knob and the record button pushed, then switch the deck back on. The display should lit all segments, then by pressing each buttons one by one, you can turn off the segments one by one. Once all done, other tests can be performed, following the instructions appearing on the display. Let us know the outcomes of these checks, and we can take it from there.
  7. Is this what you are looking for? (These head-unit connectors are pretty much standardised these days, therefore it is very probably compatible with the AX5000 - and other models/makes - too. Wire colors might differ though.)
  8. Looks like this feature is available on selected QS (920, 930, 940) and on the ES decks only. Yet another reason for using a QS/ES deck for recording :-) .
  9. NGY

    Test Jigs

    The day has come - your MDM-7 jig boards are thrown together and ready to ship out.
  10. The 920 is an SP-only machine, while the 480 is MDLP capable. Edit - a bit more information: the 920 is ATRAC 4.5 and the 480 is ATRAC Type-S. There is also Type-R in between, and anything below Type-R cannot play MDLP discs (with LP2 and/or LP4 recordings). Even some of the Type-R machines are still SP-only (i.e., the x30 family - 530, 630, 730, 930), while others are MDLP-capable (i.e., the x40 and x70 families - 440, 640, 940 and 470, 770).
  11. Sure. Those items I purchased several years ago are not visible in my account history anymore, but there are many others as I see, and now even shipping directly within the UK, so you might not need to wait weeks, for a little extra money. As listings/sellers come and go on eb@y, for future readers here is my search term: "battery heat shrink tube", that gives tons of items. One > here < seems to be a good seller, for example, having a lot of products and providing good product information. A word on which size to choose: this tube can shrink to about half of its original, flattened size. You measure your new shell and calculate the circumference, then choose the closest tube width. For example, I used 23 mm wide for AA cells and 30 mm wide for 18650 cells - 18650 diameter ~18 mm, circumference ~57 mm, tube width 30 mm (2*30=60).
  12. Nice job. Yet another beautiful example of what 3D printers can do. I had one thought, that might be a practical enhancement to these battery packs above. (You can skip this next paragraph, and jump over to the point - this is just for some background of where the idea came from). Years ago I was "rejuvenating" my old Sony battery packs for my ancient MZ-R3. Nothing fancy there really, just two Ni-MH cells stuck together with a metal clip, a plastic place holder and some glue. Any standard AA size Ni-MH rechargeable batteries would work there naturally, I just wanted to keep the original look, and the original pack's "extra feature" of holding the two cells in the right position and polarity. I "skinned" the new OEM cells, and wanted to cover them with a plain black heat shrink tube. But obviously the regular heat shrink tubes that electricians use didn't make it, because those are too thick, making the pack too fat. Then I found a seller on eb@y who sold heat shrink tubes especially made for battery cells, transparent and opaqe, in several colors from clear to black, and very thin just like the OEM cells' shrinks. Using those tubes, the original clamp/placeholder and some new cells, I had completely original-looking battery packs, that fit the MZ-R3 battery compartment perfectly. So the idea is, with a minor modification to the original 3d design (making it slightly thinner, like between the marks on this photo), the new cell can be wrapped into this heat shrink, that would "hide" the cell (or not, if someone prefers transparent tube), and the same time keep it in place and also protect it.
  13. Yes, I did, a couple of times. If you know what you are doing, and you have the necessary soldering skills and equipment, it is fairly easy. (But more difficult than the MDM-5 drives, that are the easiest to service of all, by far.) Having said that, replacing the BD board on an MDM-7 flavour is still a "PITA". You have to strip down the drive "to the bones" so to speak, and from there multiple things can go wrong, big time. And we all know, decks with these mechanisms are the most vulnerable to our old "friend" called stuck-in-standby (or just a simple C13). And let me repeat the importance of the ESD protection measures. Disassembly: - lift the drive off the chassis (be gentle with the ribbons...) - remove the top part of the loading mechanism (easiest step, even no tools needed, though a pair of tweezers can be handy), - remove the OWH, then the sled with the OP (OK, one can accomplish a BD swap without this step, but there is a huge risk of damaging either one or both during turning the drive back and forth, upside down, poking around with a hot soldering iron, etc.), - desolder all three motors - making sure the copper foil is not burned off of the board, - desolder the prerecorded/writeable media and write protect tab detecting switches, - remove one screw, then lift the board - here is "what you get": Assembly: steps as above, in reverse direction. As the MDM-7 has all positions switches soldered on the BD board that can easily be damaged during re-assembling, you must be very careful, what part to put where, from which angle, etc. Once you are done with the BD swap, you have to perform a complete OP readjustment process (that requires all those special tools - jig, DMM, scope, LPM, test discs, etc.) - unless you swap the OP too, together with "its" BD board. Bottom line: as Kevin pointed out, it makes much better sense to swap the whole drive, unless your donor has faulty components you need to exclude/replace first.
  14. Greetings to everyone. Hope you all had great holidays. Also, glad to see that the forum is back. Thanks to all, whoever was involved in getting it back on track. To the OP: swapping drives between different Sony MD decks requires pin compatibility of the ribbons (and switch-board cables, where applicable) AND the same version of the DSP chip (practically the same version of the BD board). The MCU (located on the Main Board) wants to directly talk to the DSP, thus must find the proper counterpart. Type-R and Type-S devices have different DSP-s by nature, regardless those (MDM-7) drive mechanisms/OP/OWH being quite compatible. (In this regard, whether or not the deck itself is USB controlled has less relevance, because that happens on a higher level layer, but yes, this also means that the microcode in the MCU is different too.) If it is only the OWH that is broken off, you may not need to swap the whole drive. The MDM-7 drives are luckily "easy" from OWH (or even OP) servicing point of view. All you need to take care of (besides the usual ESD stuff) is not to move the sled out from and/or leave outside of its parking position before powering up the device again, or you may run into the infamous "stuck in Standby”. One more thing: if the replacement OWH has a different connection cable (yellow flat ribbon vs. white or black twisted pair), you may need to do a bit of soldering work too. With that, you can even use an OWH from an MDM-5 unit.
  15. NGY

    Test Jigs

    Great job, well done. You must begin somewhere. You see, it all started in the early stone age, tools were crude but worked - and now were are in the age of space- and "nano" technologies.
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