• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About NGY

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

942 profile views
  1. I wish I could reach him. Tried several times, on several channels, no reply. I would need a good 530 BD board - he probably has one pulled off.
  2. PhilippeC is right, it should fit. A couple of notes though, you might want to consider: - there were at least three variants of the KMS-260. While all those are pin compatible and share the same frame (therefore all three would fit mechanically and electronically the vast majority of the Sony MD decks), the laser power is different, and the deck must be set up accordingly - either way, once you replace the OP, for proper settings (for the sake of longer laser lifetime) an LPM is necessary, as well as a test jig, to measure the IOP. These are both very sensitive values, and a wrong or loose setting can kill the laser in a relatively short time. (Not mentioning that the deck may not be able to read, write, or both, if settings are way out.)
  3. I have finally bought an RM-D21M. Would have never expected one popping up here on home soil (my W1 might well be the only one in the country, but certainly there are not many), then it happened by chance, and I almost overlooked it. Remote cost ~19€ that I think is a fair price for such a rare item. With that, this thread is now --- SOLVED ---. Thanks to everyone.
  4. spdif

    It depends on the final goal. This multiplexer IC (and the encoder switch) can handle four channels. As one position is currently used for "mute", that can be converted to an optical input. One coaxial input can be replaced by an optical receiver quite easily, also, adding an extra optical output (or more) is not a big trouble. These would be relatively small additions/changes to the original circuit/board. However, if two or more additional optical inputs are needed, besides the existing coaxial channels, that would be a different circuit. It is certainly doable with discrete logic ICs, but it would probably make better sense to build the new circuit around a microcontroller and a few push buttons instead. (And adding IR remote control is much easier, than to the current device.) As for building one: there are PCB making services available, so no hassle eith etching, drilling, etc. at home. Some level of soldering skills is certainly necessary, but other than that it is a pretty easy assembling task. ICs are in sockets, and the passive components are not that destructable, even for a hand without practice.
  5. Am I? I am very sorry, if you misunderstood what I wrote. Where did I take anything out of context and misread?
  6. We cannot really compare ATRAC and FLAC, a lossy and a lossless format. "Superiority" of ATRAC shows only on the playback side (like 20 bit oversampling etc.), while FLAC "simply" plays back the original audio - but preserves every single bit of it during encoding.
  7. Because ATRAC is not compressed. It is encoded.
  8. Well, in the case of FLAC, it is very close to the zip/unzip idea. WAV is "compressed" to FLAC without throwing away any data, and the exact same WAV can be restored. The FLAC file is resonably smaller, than the original WAV file.
  9. I have an MZ-R90, that had similarly corroded battery contacts. I took the contacts off of the player, using a fine bronze bush I removed the loose particles of the oxides and the remainings of the leaked battery juice, then dipped the contacts into 5% HCl acid (regular household stuff for cleaning) for about a minute. The acid removed the remainig oxides from the copper contacts. Sadly, the original protective plating was already gone, and although after this cleaning the player worked OK, the copper contacts would oxidize again when exposed to air. Therefore, to "imitate" this plating, I tinned the contacts with a soldering iron. The player thanks very much. I know this is a kind of tinkering, but postponed the useful life of the player. (I think I took a couple of photos of this "repair", if I find them, I post them here.)
  10. You probably did not have the OP in proper parking position - see this discussion>> here <<. Just a few - unintentional - turns of the gears at the back of the drive during disassembling/reassembling can slightly move the OP out and open the microswitch. The MDM7 mechanism family seems to be sensitive to this.
  11. My understanding is that it is rather decoding than "uncompressing", when it comes to playback. And it is done by the codec of the given format. When "compressing" and audio file, it is actually encoding it (again, by that codec), and in case of certain formats this encoding can reduce the actual file size compared to the original wav audio - either lossy or lossless way, depending on the format. FLAC encoding is lossless, mp3 and ATRAC are lossy.
  12. Nobody? Nah... Anyhow, back to the original thread: I have solved half of my remote needs: I bought an RM-D49M finally. It cost 62 pounds - OK, I got some extras with it: an MDS-JB940QS with manual :-) . But I am still after an RM-22M RM-D21M - let me know, if you have one for sale. I just figured out, that I also have an RM-D37M (for the MXD-D3), should anyone need that for a swap or trade in. [UPDATE: model name corrected]
  13. --- SOLD ---
  14. Great stuff - and very environment-friendly. And this is when "great minds meet" :-) - I came up with the exact same idea. For the gumstick "craddle" I used a Li-ion charger I bought on fleabay, (for $0.99 - incl. free shipping...). All electronics were removed, except for the spring loaded contacts. Cable and alligator clips were from an ex test lead (also cheapo Chinese thingies). I have the Technoline BC700 (European version of the Lacoste), that is a great little charger. Besides my "dead" NiMH gumsticks, I actually revitalized more than 30 pieces of NiMH AA cells, that my cameras rejected with "low battery" message (and I kept buying new batteries, while only the improper chargers were the cause of frequent battery mortality...). Now, those old (some of them 14-15 years old) cells can keep about 60-80 % of their original nominal capacity.
  15. I am just curious how many people would be interested in such a solution. I had some thoughts, and wonder if there are any volunteers (to hack their precious MD gear). Here is my concept: 1. Take an MD remote and add a 3 position switch for controlling 3 different MD decks, and add an extra piece of circuitry, that can change the IR signal as needed (see point 3.). My candidate is the RM-D15M, for a couple of reasons: it is fairly common and relatively inexpensive, it has a lot of buttons (~90% of other advanced decks' remotes), and it is big enough, so has room inside for the mod. (RM-D7M-s are available from the US at very cheap price, like $7 each or so, but it does not have the +/- buttons, that is worth a lot for many decks.) (Instead of a modded original MD remote, a universal remote can also be used, if and when it is programmable to such modified Sony IR code as below.) 2. Build a circuitry into those decks (up to 3) that need to be independently controlled (actually, only into second and third, because the first one can remain intact). This small circuitry will "understand" the modified remote, and transform the IR signal back to the original Sony protocol (again see point 3.). This device must be between the deck's IR receiver, and its main processor, therefore, the deck itself must also be tinkered (the line that runs from the IR receiver to the main IC must be cut at the most appropriate point, plus two power lines must be connected to the added circuit). The device can be "hard wired" to selection 1-2-3, or can also have a switch (say wired onto the back of the deck), to be able to select its ID. 3. Now, before you say it is "way too complicated" (like I did earlier), here are those "little circuitries": in fact they can be very small, like a coin - just a microcontroller (an SMD one), one or two transistors plus a few passives. The microcontroller in the remote takes the signal of the original remote (naturally, for deck 2 and 3 only), changes the device ID code (but nothing else) in each and every button sequence, and drives the IR LEDs. The same microcontroller (well, different microcode) in the deck then replaces this "fake" device code with the original Sony MD ID ("15"), and sends the "clean" signal to the deck's main IC. As simple, as it gets. The thing here is that Sony's IR protocol is fairly simple, so we can play with it. We can also find two unused device ID-s for this purpose, to avoid bothering other Sony gear. So anybody who dares, raise their hand :-).