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Everything posted by Jimma

  1. Battery Riddiculousness.

    I wil start by apologising for wiriting this post when I'm slightly pissed (drunk) but I've spent the last two hours listening/dancing to some quality tunes on an Aiwa AM-F65 that I bought from a car boot sale for £2.00. The thing that is winding me up is that the notoriously hard to find and old battery, LIP-902 has lasted me well over 2 hours at a considerable volume. What I want to know is, why do I only get about five minutes, if that, from an old or brand new NH-14WM in an MZR-55, MZ-RH10, MZ-E501 or pretty much any other MD player that takes that type of battery. It doesn't matter if it's charged in the unit or in a BC-NHP2 charger, the results are still the same. I might as well forget about gumstick batteries. As I write this the LIP-902 is still going strong!
  2. Strange recording issue.

    I am having trouble with the MD section of my CHC-CL5MD bookshelf system and any advice anyone could give as to the cause of the problem would be greatly appreciated. The problem is that the MD will now only record successfully if the disc is brand new. This issue has developed gradually over time. To begin with, recordings on used discs had occasional dropouts or skips on certain decks but would play perfectly on the CL5MD and a few other machines. This slowly got worse and worse and now, the CL5MD cannot play back recordings made by itself on used discs and these discs display either blank disc, C14 TOC error or the TOC is read correctly but the disc won't play when put in other units. Any recordings made on any make of brand new disc on the other hand, play flawlessly on any unit. This is quite frustrating as, when it's working this is a great system for copying CDs to MD. Any ideas?
  3. Sitting at my desk eating lunch and reading this made me smile.
  4. MZ-E2 doesn’t sounds

    The disc you are playing is not MDLP is it?
  5. Clone MD > MD

    After seeing your labeled up disc I thought I'd dig this out from my collection. It's on N5MD which was originally started as a MiniDisc only label. I can only assume Tim Koch is an MD fan, which is great. I like the look of your disc and will be interested in a copy once it is released. Please let us know the details.
  6. Clone MD > MD

    Apart from the MDW80T, the latest and current disc.
  7. LIP-4WM Battery Rebuild.

    After Sphig's success with finding a method of replacing worn out batteries for the MZ-N10, MZ-E10 and MZ-1, I thought I'd look into a solution for those of us who have units that run on the almost impossible to replace LIP-4WM using the same inexpensive 3.7 volt battery sourced from eBay. The link for the battery is at the bottom of this post. Please only attempt this if you are confident in what you are doing and be sure not to short circuit either the old or new battery as this can be dangerous. I cannot be held responsible for damage to either you or your valuable MD equipment. For this you will need to sacrifice your old dead LIP-4WM as we will be using parts from it. 1. Carefully remove the sticker from the old battery. 2. Once the sticker is removed you will notice that the opposite face of the battery from the contacts is black and shiny. This is another sticker and you should also carefully remove this. It is very sticky so you may need to use the edge of a blade to lift the edge of it. 3. After removing the second sticker, you should see the silver metal casing of the battery itself. The battery is glued to the plastic casing and will need to be very carefully revoved without damaging the plastic back battery housing. I did this by gently flexing the end of the plastic casing furthest from the contacts away from the battery slightly and then sliding the end of a wide plastic cable tie in between the battery and casing to separate them. 4. Using a pair of scissors you should now be able to cut through the two metal tabs connecting the battery to the PCB with the battery contacts. Cut these as close to the battery as possible to leave as much of the metal as you can attacked to the circuit board in the platic casing. 5. You should now have the plastic back battery housing with just the contact PCB and its small plastic cover. Your new battery can now be placed in the plastic housing and secured using piece of very thin double sided tape or glue. 6. The wires from your new battery should now be soldered onto the tabs that the old battery was attached to, making sure that you get the polarity correct. You can see the correct way to connect the wires in the photos below (the negative connection is next to the diagonal cut off corner of the casing). 7. I then used a piece of regular sticky tape to go over the area where the wires and connections are just to keep it slightly more secure and less prone to accidental short circuiting of the new battery. I used thin sticky tape rather than electrical tape because there is very little room in the battery compartments of these MiniDisc units and electrical tape is a little too thick and causes fitting problems. 8. Finally I added a piece of sticky tape to the underside of the end of the battery housing that doesn't have the contacts and folded the end of it over to make a battery removal tab as shown in the photos, as the newly fitted battery is a very cosy fit (certainly in the NH1 I tested it with), and this gives you something to hold on to when removing the battery from the unit. You should now be good to go. As you can see from my pictures, my MZ-NH1 is now happily running on its new battery and I see no reason why this shouldn't be a success in any other MD unit that uses the LIP-4WM although I don't have anything other than the NH1 to test this for myself. The NH1 operates exactly as it should and charges fine from its charging cradle. I hope this helps any of you who, like me, are having problems with batteries that have seen better days. Good luck:) http://www.ebay.com/itm/181291308343?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  8. As I stated in a previous post, for quite some time now I've been having problems with the NH-14WM gumstick batteries. In many of my portables, they have become unusable, with some units saying that the batteries are flat even when they have just been charged. For example my first MD Walkman, a yellow MZ-R55 has not been usable on any of the gumstick batteries I own, both Sony and other brands, for quite some time. It would just say "Low Battery" immediately the battery was inserted. I tried different brands for battery of differing ages, all supposedly fully charged but to no avail. I've cleaned contacts, tried adding small bits of foil, charged the batteries with different machines/chargers and other suggestions I've read in various places but all with no luck. Many other units I have suffer from the same problem including 3 more MZ-R55s and an MZ-RH10 whereas my MZ-N1 and MZ-E45 and several others have no such issue. It has been driving me mad! Then a couple of days ago, for some unknown reason I thought I'd try scoring the positive end of an old Sony battery with a small, sharp screwdriver. I then put it back into the MZ-R55 and to my surprise, for the first time in years, my first MD Walkman was happily playing on batteries without the AA sidecar and showing full battery level. So I bought a small file and roughened up the surface of the + terminal on all my gumsticks and sure enough, all the previously problematic units were suddenly working as they should. Why I should have to do this, especially on batteries that are new is beyond me but it has done the trick and made me very happy!!
  9. The Return to MD

    You may know this already but unfortunately SonicStage doesn't recognise FLAC files. You will have to use something like FLAC Frontend to change them back to WAVs before importing them into SonicStage for transfer to your NH1 once you get your USB cable. The MZ-NH1 is a fantastic bit of kit and I'm sure you'll be very happy with it. I love mine:)
  10. http://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/14753045.Cameron_has___1m_memoirs_backed_up____on_MiniDisc/ The first time I've heard of someone using MD due to it being "unhackable".
  11. It looks like you're going to have to keep it in one piece and just welcome a new member to your MD family:)
  12. Google has shut down Picasa so all the photo albums that were there have been transferred to Google Photos but unfortunately that means the pictures are inaccessible to anyone but the owner unless they set up new public albums, which is very annoying. The same thing has happened to the MD Channel galleries.
  13. MZ-RH10 HiMD repair?

    Hi mimerskol. I really hope you are able to get your MZ-RH10 up and running, but if this proves impossible I would be very interested in buying it from you if the display works as my RH10 has the common oled display fail issue. If you have no luck repairing it and are interested in selling, please let me know:)
  14. Blank Disc Catalog

    Those sites don't include every disc ever made, but I've not seen any more comprehensive sets of pictures.
  15. I've just received some of the brand new Sony blank MiniDiscs through the post and the packaging bears a striking resemblence to the very first blanks from back in 1992. This makes me wonder if they are finishing in the same fashion as they started and that this is the last new blank we will see from Sony. I certainly hope not but I have included a few photos of the 1992 and 2015 discs together for comparison. http://www.sony.jp/rec-media/products/MDW80T/
  16. SonyMZ-R30 issues

    From past experience, game consoles and Blu-Ray or DVD players don't transfer the track marks for some reason. I am at a loss as to why they would not transfer from the Arcam CD player though. I have never had any issues transfering track marks via optical to any MD deck or portable from any dedicated CD player with any CD. The only difference is that I don't use Syncro Rec. I just rec/pause the recorder, play/pause the player and then start them at the same time. That might be worth a try but I can't really see why it would make any difference.
  17. Sonic Stage Folder view?

    The problem I have is that if you import an album such as, for the sake of argument "Now That's What I Call Music! 93" in MP3 format and each track has the album title and artist metadata then SonicStage splits it up into 44 seperate albums called Now 93, one by each of the 44 artists. Unless I'm missing something then the only way to transfer the album onto MiniDiscs with the tracks ordered correctly is to read through the tracklisting and painstakingly select each track individually before transfer. To change the album to a the same artist or no artist at all would in this example require changing the artist on all 44 "albums" individually. I have played around with this a lot and have found no way around it apart from erasing the artist data from the MP3s before importing, which is also a pain. Maybe I'm just being clueless Stephen.
  18. Sonic Stage Folder view?

    Nemo, I would really like a copy of your app if you'd be willing to let me have it. It drives me mad when you import a compilation album into SonicStage and it splits the album up according to the artist metadata.
  19. Hi Steve. A NiMH battery should charge just fine using the charging stand and it will likely give better performance and none of the memory effects of the original NiCd.
  20. The new blank disc from Sony. Is it the last?

    I got them from a Japanese seller on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=u-japan&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xminidisc.TRS0&_nkw=minidisc&_sacat=0 This new model was released in November as far as I can tell. The five packs even come in an old school cardboard box with five individually wrapped discs inside which is a nice touch. Sony still manufacture the Neige discs as well unbelievably. I picked up a few of those in their new 2015 individual packaging a couple of months ago.
  21. Boombox/Ghetto Blaster Project

    I've always fancied a portable boombox with MiniDisc but here in the UK they are quite hard to come by and rather expensive. They are even rarer if you want one that runs on batteries which is vital if you want to be totally portable. Having seen the listings on eBay for supposed warehouse find brand new 1980s boomboxes I thought I'd grab one and see if it was suitable for modding. The seller I bought from has a listing for stereos with one faulty tape deck for £29 including delivery so I ordered one and once it arrived, set about finding out how hard it would be to change the faulty tape deck for MiniDisc. The results can be seen in the attached pictures and I am very pleased with the way it has turned out. It is a big old beast though and will be expensive to buy batteries for as it takes 10 D size and 1 AA for the clock/MiniDisc. If anyone wants me to explain what I had to do to achieve this, please ask and I'll be happy to go into more detail, although stupidly I didn't photograph the whole process.
  22. LIP-4WM Battery Rebuild.

    Mine also only charged for a very short time to begin with. It got up to the full charge time after I discharged it once or twice. As far as the tight fit goes, it is cozy to say the least but I don't think it's tight enough to cause any problems. Interestingly the battery listing on eBay suggests that they can manufacture batteries to the buyers size specification so I may ask the seller about this. It may be that it would be prohibitively costly to do and I reckon there is a good chance that they would not be able to thin the battery down to less than the current 4mm anyway. They could possibly add some extra capacity by lengthening the battery though.
  23. LIP-4WM Battery Rebuild.

    I'm pretty sure there is no need for both protection circuits but I see no reason to suspect that having two lots of protection will have much of an effect on battery performance. I left both of them in situ as the one on the new battery would be a pain to remove and the other is pretty well integrated with the output terminals of the old battery which we need to use. I also thought that I was more likely to get an accurate battery level reading from the MiniDisc unit using the original protection circuit. If you can somehow bypass the original protection circuit and wire the new battery straight to the output terminals I don't foresee you having any problems, although I can't say for sure as I have not tried. This could be a solution if you think the original circuit is fried for some reason. Good to hear that you're being sent the correct batteries Stephen.
  24. LIP-4WM Battery Rebuild.

    I did use Sellotape but it was wide enough to only have to use one piece. I suspect packing tape would be ok as it is quite thin and very flexible so should follow the contours of the casing exactly. You will find that the new battery inside the plastic casing from the original is quite a tight fit inside the MD unit so you don't want any tape you use to take it from a cosy fit to not fitting at all.
  25. I just tested out this online creator for making front and back MiniDisc jewel case inlays. It is fairly basic but allows you to add a cover photo, text for artist, title and track details in many colours as well as selecting background colours from a decent sized pallete. This has seemingly appeared on the internet only recently and produces basic covers using a good set of MiniDisc templates. Well worth a look if you're after a simple way of producing inlay cards for your discs. http://minidisccover.com/