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Posts
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Everything posted by sfbp
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tyvm. Flat rate shipping doesn't usually mean UPS, good stuff. If he uses USPS for the "higher cost options" then probably this is regular mail too. Yes UPS charges are backend-ed onto me when it gets here, sigh (and that doesn't even include the relatively small amount the Govt will charge me for importing them). $12.95 isn't too bad as long as it's mail. I just ordered 2 since the shipping is only 50% more.
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Sure. So I am back to the same problem as everyone else. You know, I think UPS pays these people a kickback. It's that much worse to Canada because they charge $30-$50 to clear each shipment, and the whole thing is precleared ("more efficient you know") so no way to intercept it and clear yourself ie go to airport and convince customs it ain't worth their while to take $1.99 off you.
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Did you buy them in person from somewhere near you? If so I am sending you money and a begging letter to get me some
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Tough one. Try looking here: T(ools->O(ptions->Transfer (from the Main SonicStage menu) Now highlight NetMd or HiMD (probably HiMD for you) and push the button on the right that says "Transfer Settings" Now you get a new screen, headed Transfer Mode Settings. Click the button towards the bottom right that says "Advanced" and... Bob's your uncle.... (Bob, where are you?) You can find where the tracks are being put, currently. You may find it easier to move that location, though for tracks already uploaded you will need to move them to the new location. The files there are "forgotten about" by Sonic Stage, unlike .oma files which are tracked in the database and should not be moved by hand. Hope this helps. Welcome to MDCF.
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Interestingly the best place to find MZ-NH700 has been the UK ever since I started looking. For a while the price got driven up as some guy in Spain was buying every unit at any price. However demand has finally fallen and I just saw a unit change hands for 30GBP. Try ebay uk and talk to the seller about shipping to wherever you are, you may be surprised.
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I'd buy them through ebay (or just paypal) if you can figure out how to ship them to Canada cheaply. The problem with the only suppliers I found are that they are in the US and insist on using UPS. Apart from doubling the price, now I get to pay a ridiculous customs clearance fee to UPS of about $30, whereas the mail mostly doesn't bother and when they do, I pay the duty/tax plus a mere $7.00 processing fee.
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well... even if u just gave me the exact specifications. And if I cannot get locally, then maybe I paypal you a buck or two - heaven knows what the TSA (or whoever scans all the mail) will make of a few loose screws (that are probably from my head anyway). Out of the 10 possible screw positions I noticed there was only 1 (and that on the one side) where the screws which are a bit too long currently, would have touched anything. So I took a deep breath and turned it on hoping that I hadn't missed anything. The toughest bit was getting the faceplate/cover (not the detachable thing by Sony, but the piece of plastic that finishes the mating of the two technologies Sony->Chrysler) on, especially since one of the 4 lugs was broken off right out of the packet and with some trepidation I had to superglue it back, before attempting to snap in.
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Sync recording will do this... if the level drops too low, it will mark a track. On portables, joining tracks is as simply as removing a track mark. There's a small trick which will work on any MD portable I think. At least any I have had my hands on. Play the first track, press the pause button. Now skip to the track mark by pressing and releasing FF (or RW if that is your idea). Now it will be in pause mode exactly on the track mark. Press the track mark button, and the OLED should show "MARK OFF". Hope this helps.
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I just got through installation and preliminary testing. Sure, the 610 would have been nice, but at least this one does everything I want. I guess the USB port is a major difference. I really am not into the USB/MP3/*pod wave, so I don't care. It should play MP3 CD's which I have already made at home. Funny you should mention it, I made an Atrac3+ CD-R months ago to test out a bookshelf unit in the store - and the last test I did just now was to put it in, and it works quite beautifully. So I have HiMD in my car!!!!! No worries about screws, I got some and the countersunk, metric variety might have to wait until I get to a bigger store than the one I went to today. But it's fairly literally hanging in there, now. You also have/had a Chrysler?
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I got a Sony head unit (GT510) off craigslist for $60 and an XM satellite radio (XT-XM1) for $50 on Ebay (of course the radio needs a subscription but it's there on the shelf if I finally get around to putting it in the car). Each is about 2 years old. This was triggered (excuses, excuses) by the weird behaviour of the Sony-to-Chrysler interface with my MD changer, though the sound is excellent, way better than the RF modulator. Frequently (in fact on any track over 10:00 mins in length) it would fail to advance the time, for about 3 minutes, leaving the unit essentially in lala land until about 13:00. Sound still comes out, but no Unilink bus commands being delivered AFAIK. No track numbers or times showing, and impossible to increase the volume (decrease always works even with no bus connnector there at all). The hardest part was finding the right connectors and mounting kit which cost almost as much as the unit itself, lol. Right now it's not installed, as I lack mounting screws, the guy didn't have any, to put the special brackets that lock it in to the front dash. All I know is that they have to be less than 8mm long, I think. Off to the hardware store tomorrow, or Monday. This thing looks to be amazing, does everything except make the tea. Controls the Satellite radio, the MD changer, plays all CD media including ATRAC3 (LP2 and LP4), ATRAC3+, WMA, AAC, MP3 in most flavours of CD-R and CD-RW (though there are some weirdnesses about whether it will play CD-RW that isn't specially made for audio), and of course has a proper display of the MD titles and recorded bitrate/format for the stuff from the changer. It even has an Aux 3.5 mm input, and I am seriously thinking about hooking the audio out on the back of the unit to something that will play into some headphones so I can listen while someone else is driving or sleeping. Thank you Sony! Pictures to follow, if I can organise it.
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I specially like the look of these Bryco racks for 16 or 80 MD. i. has anyone actually got some? ii. do they take bare MD or MD in slip cases? (or both) iii. does any other supplier stock these? iv. do they fix to a wall nicely?
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Sure I moved them over, np. Mea culpa, should have started a new thread myself at the beginning.
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That's all fine. I don't consider a gentle auction with the price rising over a period of some days and the last bid 1/2 hour before the end, to be a bidding war. The real problem is the *idea* of sniping fails (or at best gets botched because of technology) when more than one person does it. We each think that sniping/not-sniping is the best way to avoid silly prices. To each his own.
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Them, and MDC (now pauseplaystop.com). About the same after currency conversion. MDC had the best deal for a while (around $3 a disk).
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Yes, my pet hate is overlong listings from CDDB dragged in by Simple Burner.
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Interesting. My own instinct is quite different. I don't mind revising how much I am prepared to pay for something - frequently it will change as I see others bidding or get more information, or (downwards) decide I don't need it that much after all. It just seems much more civilised to have time to think about how much you really want something before making that final bid that seals it. Sure there's excitement in that, why not? Often I really don't know how much something is worth when I start bidding on it. So sniping really doesn't give me a chance to evaluate the auction and change my expectations. If we have much more of this maybe we better make a new topic. I can split them if necessary.
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Unfortunately sniping has become a way of life. There are even websites that do it for you mechanically. The problem I see is when you get multiple people bidding like this, the price gets totally out of control. The snipers argue that it is better to save money by keeping the price low. My argument is that it is better to have honest and open auctions where it's known how interested folks are. People end up bidding in the heat of the moment that they really didn't intend to and cannot afford. Good for Ebay - maybe? But I am guessing the two effects cancel out, and all you get is a lot of stressed out angry bidders.
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Not me, I seen too many slasher/crime/thriller series recently
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Well, it ain't exactly a protocol to begin with. More like a series of resistance values. Sufficiently proprietary that to copy it would probably make a whole lot of trouble and incur a whole lot of license fees they didn't want to pay for.
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The linux-minidisc project will do this easily.
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Yeah mine was definitely brand new when I got it a couple of months ago. Shipping to Canada was GBP14.99.
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I just sent you a copy. Also I just got confirmation that it is the same company, directly from them - so I unreservedly recommend this transaction.
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No intent to create a commotion. Barock, I tried to send you the email response from microlink - but no luck.
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Please don't take offence, skogens. We've only known you for a couple of weeks. I was suggesting an alternative. There IS another supplier whose price is in the same ballpark. That's all.
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Just a second folks. I know this sounds like a good deal but I for one am reluctant to give someone new to the forum my email and paypal addresses, which is necessary for a purchase. I've noticed that there can be a propensity to get spam as companies figure a paypal address is a live customer, and the address gets passed around. No offence to OP, who is doing an excellent job. I'm really sorry to jump in like this. But I just wrote an email to the same place that Barock and I bought B10's from and, guess what? Right off the bat, for group purchase, they are willing to --almost-- match the price we are being quoted here. I prefer not to mention money at this precise instant because it maybe completely irrelevant if you blow me off, and because I don't want to put the nice lady there in a difficult position. She did say: Now I do not want to organise it, especially since I am not in England (Barock????). Even if the price was a little more, maybe we would all feel a bit more comfy dealing directly with an established commercial firm. I suppose the same problem might apply for payment but I am pretty sure these guys will take Visa. What do you think? (added) BTW one comment about these highly desirable machines... they WILL run on a "standard" 3V DC minidisc power supply (or a generic one from the drugstore as long as the right connector).