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I'm sure it's a function of how many bots are attacking us. Speaking for myself, I know there were huge runs about 1 month ago (around 25/2) but that might be different for someone else such as our hoster which is somewhere in the USA.

The standard RM-MC38EL should work. Maybe if you dream about it you can wake up with an idea of what to do. I'm stumped. However the middle bit looks like the NH900's.

Limp means it's not electrical, i think. Take a look at page 50 of the NH900 service manual. The others will surely all be similar.

I can't offer help on this model, but i recall something similar with an NH700. You'll have to take it apart. Inside the lid the switch board is probably secured with a couple of screws. We're hampered here by not having an exploded diagram from the service manual, but you might benefit from the fact that these designs kindof evolved... yours being a later one than said NH700. Not much use but don't panic yet. Kind regards Stephen

The other thing that changed recently is the effectiveness of Chromecast (and I am sure the many clones). I am away from home this week, and for the first time I am able to blast my videos from home (not copied, but via the internet) directly on to the TV there. So if you have a phone that will get the content you need, maybe this is enough. Once again, this is not a property of the TV, but the fact that you can reliably plug in a device which catches your casts from portable device(s).

Very kind of you but I think 6 years later this guy is probably long gone. He only ever came to the site in 2019.

Sure. But if you are having trouble with software that browses the internet on that particular date it seems not unreasonable to ascribe to a common cause. I'm sure there's nothing wrong with your hardware. I have Sony TVs from the last 20 years and both sport access to things "out there" (eg music sites that are long gone) and no longer do any of those extra things.

There's a kerfuffle of sorts relating to Firefox's root certificate expiring on 14th March. https://www.theregister.com/2025/03/13/mozilla_certificate_update/ Was your problem beginning exactly then? It's not clear to me that Sony ever used anything from Mozilla - but what do I know? Seems a bit of a coincidence..... If it were me, I would stop relying on anything baked into your TV (and updates thereto) and get a real computer (for example a Raspberry Pi if you cannot stand working with Windoze) to drive the TV screen

Great Did you press the NetMD button to turn on NetMD? If they show up in SonicStage (on the PC pane, not the MD pane) as non-transferable, it's most likely due to some copy protection. If you run the System Conversion Tool, you might be able to remove it. What format are you trying to transfer? I would be inclined to get hold of Sound Forge and look at the files. If they are unreadable by SF, they are definitely encrypted. If you find they are readable, maybe you have to change the file format (honestly, easier with SF than with SonicStage) to something that can be transferred. If your format is something that NetMD does NOT understand (Hi-MD, LPCM, MP3) Sonicstage is supposed to convert before sending to NetMD device. Maybe that is not happening, if the temporary directory SS is trying to use cannot be accessed (non-existent or bad permissions)?

Not sure about WMDP. But NetMD was never designed to transfer FROM the device to the PC. The fact that someone has done it is quite wonderful. If you don't follow the WMDP route, you have the following choices: 1. Play back through the optical port or the coax port (both S/PDIF) and capture the result in your sound card using simple Windows tools. So, not a transfer, only a recording. 2. Buy or borrow an MZ-RH1. 3. (if there are a very few precious files) Send the disk to someone who has an RH1. Sorry!

Well done! Generally, though, when the belt is dead or dying, the mechanism will do *something*, not just sit there.

BTW, I think a lot of trouble arises from the idea of "HDMI passthrough". I have an AV receiver which even in standby mode passes the last connected source to the projector. I wonder if this might be related to your problem, ie the power-saving settings on the PC?

I have way too much MD "junk" already. I assume you found it on yahoo.jp, there is another one for sale right now.

And they could fix a 19 year old unit? Impressive.

Hooray! Well done, what did you do exactly to fix it?

My recollection/experience is that the effect of enabling the feature(s) which allow something at the other end of the HDMI cable to power on/off a device are fraught with difficulty. Sometimes it works, and if so, leave it, you are lucky. Clearly you hit one of the cases that doesn't work, and should resign yourself to powering the TV and soundbar on and off separately. You might even buy a programmable remote that turns them both on (and off) together.

Seeing as we don't have a service manual, and looking at the general design, you might start by looking at its predecessors: HCD-M373 (from CMT-M373NT) HCD-MD595 (from CMT-PX3) And numerous others listed here https://forums.sonyinsider.com/files/category/6-bookshelf/ and here https://minidisc.org/part_Bookshelf_Sony.html Maybe the service manuals will give you a clue to how the machine is taken apart (disassembled). In addition, the page at minidisc wiki shows some stuff with the power supply. Maybe you need to figure out if the transformer is working. Kevin.....?

Time to take off the face plate and check the cabling to the front panel.......

Wow, I never saw anything about this unit. I always thought Sony didn't make anything HiMD in a deck/bookshelf except LAM-X1. Did you look in Minidisk Wiki? Do you have the remote? What happens when you plug it into USB? And... are you running on 100V supply?

EF Balance rings a bell in my memory. I would be very careful to check all mechanical movement is unrestricted (prime candidate is congealed/rubberised white silicone grease). I'd also check continuity on the head but it sounds like you are way beyond that. You might investigate what comes right before and right after the EF Balance check step, on a working unit. Can you read a CD (pre-recorded/manufactured)? That is a prerequisite before any writing tests. Maybe you know much more about this than me.....

I could have replied yesterday but didn't get around to it - the "cradle" is generally the word we use for the charge stand that the entire portable unit is dropped into for easy overnight charging, or in some cases as a dock like you would have for a laptop. The bad news about cradles is two-fold: 1. There are lot of different designs, and only rarely did Sony make several models with the pins on that cradle (and the portable) that were interchangeable 2. The charging (in my experience) tends to be somewhat unreliable, though this is the case (also) with direct charging via a 3V adapter, for instance. Indeed some models ONLY charge with the cradle, which is a real pain. But if you mean the carry-mechanism that slides in and out of a deck, then everything Kevin said is correct.

Sorry to say, the builders are still here and there is sawdust everywhere, so no way am I opening up MD on my impossibly messy desk right now. I still think, from bitter experience, that 3V power supply (which is what the alignment adjustment recommends) is the simplest way of avoiding power deficits, both during alignment and for actual live recording. The fact that you actually managed to record a couple of disks is very encouraging. The spin up/spin down is from what I recall, normal, but it maybe a sign of the laser being under-powered. I had something similar with my MDS-PC3 which required a very small bump in the read power. However, portables are not aligned using same methods, and the automatic adjustment sequence is the way to go. Don't forget that when a disk is written, the next thing it needs to do is to read back what was written (hence getting stuck at TOC Edit). So it is just as likely to be the read power as the write power (which is a MUCH coarser adjustment, since writing required 10x the power) that is in deficit, likely because of a laser that got a bit tired.

Didn't even think of looking there. Well done. Makes me wonder if the vibration is self-generated.

Sony's manuals are very good. Occasionally, on the later models, they leave out something that was perfectly explained in the earlier ones. The only thing I can suggest is you look at the manual for this device's predecessors, as far back as you have to (and have time to do). I would look in the 710 and the 510 (both NetMD) and perhaps the R900 and R90. Maybe the MZ-N1 (the first widely available NetMD portable) and the MZ-N10 (except that the latter uses Li-Ion, not NiMH). Let us know how it progresses.

There's a scratching noise when it seeks, on most of these 910s. If you don't have that noise, you are lucky. Nothing to do with spinning up/spinning down. MEM OVER sounds like a buffering error. REC ERR is surely what it says. That one probably means you got to do the real alignment. I'm pleased setting the basic voltages made a difference. Even if only temporary. Did you rule out mechanical stickyness? I think you did. Sorry I haven't had time to get my 910 out and play with it - fighting fires (not literally) here, so far this week I have had 3 disk drives and a screen fail. Something to do with cold weather, maybe.