Sargaso

The same thing is happening to me and I use google chrome. Except I don't get any error code.

Thanks for confirming that the remote is different. I'll just have to find one somewhere.

Yes, since they both came out at the same time, you might just be correct. I'll be on the lookout for a V33 on ebay.

Without a remote, I guess I'll never get to change sound settings on the V55. To bad. Thanks for the reply.

I have 3 remotes from DMC-T55, S55 and S33 and they all work on any of those 3 machines. However, none of the remotes work with any of the 3 DMC-V55's that I own. I have seen infomation that indicated that the same remote is used on the T55, S55, S33 and V55 but couldn't find anyone that could confirm whether or not this is true. Can you confirm this? Thanks

Does the V55 have a special remote that is different than the remotes for the S33, S55 and T55? I have not been able to find any information about the remote for the V55 except that it has a clip on the bottom.

About a thrid of the way down this web page begins the Sony Walkman collection. Good Luck, hope you find it. http://pocketcalculatorshow.com/walkman/page/2/

You might try to epoxy that lever back together.

The link shows what looks like some more dark ones. You might try the format again, maybe it didn't really reformat from HiMD. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-tdk-md-rxg-xa-74-pro-minidisc-minidisk-sammler-for-collectors-rar/282380921914?hash=item41bf36ec3a

Hi, Perhaps you may be able to get some info from here: http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/onkyo/md-185x.shtml It shows a link to download a partial service manual for an Onyko MD-185X good luck

Stephen, It may be that the LIP-4WM protection circuit may be a bit confused. I've had protected LiOn cells do this when they think there has been a short circuit or the output voltage gets to low. Just charging the cell gets it back operating again. I also bought a couple of those 350mah cells from the Ebay seller Jimma referenced and both of them were 350mah. Maybe I got lucky.

If you don't have the remote attached, make sure HOLD is not turned on. If Hold is turned on then the display won't show anything and it won't play, it will just look like it's dead.

I just removed the battery and put my NH1 (with remote attached) into the charging adaptor and It played just fine.

I have tried the "burn out" methods, including both the short duration 12v application to the battery and using a dumb charger like sony mz-r90/91 to charge. The battery does indeed get warm in the r91 during charging but didn't really fix anything. I'm sure some internal resistance can be reduced by these methods in some batteries depending on the conditions that caused the high resistance but it's just never worked in any of the batteries that came with any of the MD's I've purchased and of course none of the HQRP batteries. Anyway I'm pleased with the performance of the Sofirn NiMH's I'm currently using. Actually this post confused me. I didn't realize the OP was needing a replacement for the LIP-4WM. Should have looked at the topic closer. I wish I could report a good source for the LIP-4WM but they just don't seem to be out there. I keep thinking that some Chinese company will come out with a replacement but have not seen any yet, maybe someday.

Smart chargers can help with recovering some capacity (to a certain point) of the battery by repeated charge/discharge but can't do anything about decreasing internal resistance.

I tried the HQRP gumstick batteries and I never had any luck with them. They all had high self discharge characteristics and developed high internal resistance pretty quickly. The only NH-14WM replacement I've used that wasn't high self discharge is the Sofirn 3000mah battery from China. Don't let the name fool you , it's no where near 3000mah. Its like 1200mah but will hold a charge. The Sofirn battery is all white in color and its still going after a year now. It's not as good as the original Sony pr Sharp gumsticks were but way better than any HQRP I've ever tried.

I have a pair. Sent you a message about them.

I usually manually clean away the bulk of the residue then use a q-tip moistened with wet baking soda. Baking soda will bring back a neutral ph. Make sure everything is dry before applying power afterward. Looking at the service manual for the NH900, the negative contact for the battery (back end of the battery compartment you mentioned) appears to be on the main PC board itself. If there is leakage on the main board you may have to disassemble the unit to clean and repair any damage. Good luck.

Might it be that the "converting" done is SS (for the wav file) is just the encryption being done while loading the file onto the device? This also might be why the file on the MD is larger than the PC since it would contain more information.

Good to know it makes a difference. I used a fresh alkaline Duracell AA battery (measures 1.521 volts) when I ran the CD and MO tests. Maybe that's not within acceptable limits.

Good luck with your EH70. Fortunately mine has never given me any trouble (knock on wood).

I have received the factory MD and gone through the CD test, MO test and have gotten out of test mode. But CD and MO tests fail with some lazer alignment error if I don't pinch the hing area when doing the test. It passes if I pinch it and fails if I don't. Maybe I'll take it apart and maybe accidently correct some mechanical alignment issue during reassembly.

If you are referring to the chargers themselves, just do a google search and select images to see a billion pics of any of these charger/analyzers. The full names are: Opus BT-C2000, Powerex MH-C9000 WizardOne and La Crosse BC-1000 The links below are not the only places to get these (some have better prices) however I wouldn't get an Opus BT-C2000 anywhere else. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Opus-BT-C2000-Battery-Charger-Tester-Analyzer-NiMH-NiCd-AA-AAA-C-D-12-Volt-US-/331042777396?pt=Battery_Chargers&hash=item4d13afe934 http://www.thomasdistributing.com/MAHA-MH-C9000-Charger-with-4-Maha-AA-2700-Batteries-and-Holder-_p_1002.html http://www.lacrossetechnology.com/bc1000/ If you are referring to my particular setup then here are some pics of that: One set of wires are connected to a AAA to AA cell adaptor with a wooden dowel representing the AAA cell inside the AA housing. The other wires are bare but can be placed at the ends of one of the AAA to AA adaptors when its put into the charger slot.

Ok, here are a couple of pics. Took me a long time to figure out how to post pictures, even though it's easy.