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Everything posted by kgallen

  1. Please add your location to your profile. I'm going to assume you're in the US. Either of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-1-Minidisc-VICTOR-Clear-MD-80-2006-new-and-sealed/264526483528?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-3-Sony-MD80-Blank-Mini-Disc-80-Minutes-Recordable-MD-Japan-Genuine-F-ship/322993600431?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  2. Don't get me started on this one... yes the factory-fit CR2032 in my (theare) lighting desk did last for 5 years. However the Dura**ll pile of c**p I fitted next only lasted 2 years and I lost the last 20 lighting cues of Act 2 (fortunately during the dress rehearsal, not a performance). However I digress again and we're no closer to fixing ck10's machine!
  3. Yes I see you're right about the thickness/diameter - I was leading myself to the wrong conclusion thinking about the ML2020 I see in my E10 versus the smaller diameter one I see in my 440 (which I probably erroneously took to be an ML2016 but haven't actually looked...). However I think we're looking at different types of battery here - CR20xx are primary cells - exhaust once and throw away. The batteries in these decks are ML20xx which are rechargable. CR series are usually in a socket/holder so they can be replaced. The ML20xx I see have tags attached and are soldered into the PCB. Yup, CR20xx are small change. The ML20xx are in the 10 USD/GBP/EUR range from what I can see. I did buy a "pair" of ML2020 for my E10 and I got genuine Panasonic ones for about 5GBP each. At which point I must note that in desperation trying to repair my E10 I thought the battery voltage was a bit low and it needed replacing. Turns out that wasn't the issue - my working E12's had even lower voltages. So... this battery distraction I've taken you on (sorry!) might well not be the issue with the 510, it was just a thought!
  4. I just dug out the 510 SM. It's an ML2016 (rechargeable Lithium Ion), so probably the same as the 440 (the "16" bit is the diameter so it is a 16mm dia battery, compared to the 20mm one in the MDS-E10/E12). Not saying this is the issue, just updating my post from above now I've got the data! (These batteries are not "dirt cheap", around the 6GBP/8USD mark - not sure where in the world you are ck10).
  5. Internal battery duff? Or just flat through no use? Not sure what is in the 510 but in my E10/12 it’s a Panasonic ML2020. I seem to remember my 440 has similar but a smaller size. It’s soldered in to the PCB. Leave the machine turned on a couple of hours to charge it up and see if that helps.
  6. If you can’t edit the track that suggests it’s already fragmented too much. Can you copy the track to a fresh MD and start from there? assumes: - the record tab isn’t across on the disc (you’ve checked) - you have or can borrow a second machine
  7. Good work! Although I tended to find plumbing O-rings a little thick and stiff. I hope you found one that fits the pulleys nicely and is not straining the axle geometry at either end. The beltsI've looked at, even those that are still working well, are not under much tension and they are not particularly chunky belts. Kevin
  8. Of course you're welcome! Especially as you're MD! My Google-Foo has failed me on searching for any documentation on your machine. At an outside guess, is the clamshell not closing/seating properly? Kevin ps Jim could you add your location to your profile?
  9. There really is no hope. 18 months on from my previous comment in this thread, I "somehow" seem to have 12 machines... one Sony MDS-JE530 and MDS-E10 in the "still trying to repair" category (in theory I'll finally get hold of a suitable Laser Power Meter within the next month or so...), two Tascam MD-CD1 (MkI) in the "repaired and in use" category (for dubbing), two beautiful Sony MDS-E12 and a pristine Tascam MD-350 flightcased for use in theatre sound, plus my trusty original Sony MDS-JE520 in my home-office-cum-sound-studio and portable MZ-R700 at work where it gets pretty much daily use. An MDS-JE440 and a MDS-JE480 bought as "tatty and broken" donor/investigative machines for the ongoing E10 repair, but both of which are now fully functional too. Oh and it's 12 machines now (rather than the 11 I mentioned recently in another thread), as I've imposed the format on the rest of the family having picked up (and repaired the CD changer section of) a Sony DHC-NX5MD MD/CD based "mini-hifi" stack which is now in use in the Dining Room...! As I say... no hope. But honestly, I really don't have (physical) space for any more, even if mentally there's still room for the odd one more...!
  10. Great news! For the future reference of others, I assume you just pressed the "Play Mode" button to get out of Program? Regards, Kevin (apologies for not signing off on my first post!)
  11. Sorry for the daft question, but you haven't accidentally put it into "program play" mode have you? I'm not familiar with this particular machine, but an MD-based Sony Hifi I have gives this exact message when you try to play a "program" and you haven't created a "program" with any tracks in it. See page 25 of the manual: https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/support/res/manuals/3866/38666781M.pdf Page 42 lists the error messages and gives: "No program!! You tried to start Program Play when no program exists."
  12. I can't find an MDS-302 service manual anywhere that contains the schematics or PCB layouts. I understand the MDS-S30 is essentially the same machine. I've found an MDS-S30 SM that does contain the schematics... https://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals/download/Sony/MDS-S30.pdf
  13. Also can you clarify if the noise is dominant at normal listening levels or only if you wind up the volume on your amp to some very high level? Is the noise present in the same way on the headphone output?
  14. Any notable events to report like bad mains power or storms? Can you record on it and play back ok in another machine? Do all other functions seem to work ok like display, remote, editing functions? I’m trying to narrow down if one of the internal power rails has gone bad. Are you electronics minded/competent? The service manual is here: http://www.minidisc.org/manuals/sony/service/sony_MDS-302_service_manual.pdf (Although unusually there are no schematics which is a snag...p33-52 are missing, I’ll look around.) Kevin
  15. (Sorry for the thread-grab!) Thanks! Interestingly I also have a pair of MDS-E12 (yes, yes, yes I know I had one before, but this cute one came along and the E10 wasn't working, so I just had to.... well you know how it is... 11 machines later...) and even though they are the top rung of this particular range, they don't have Nichicon FG caps in them - although the caps they do have in them do look like a different style to your usual black-wrapped electrolytics. They are fairly plain silver cans, so maybe some other audio grade caps but not Nichicon FG??? We did have a chat about the SCMS defeat in another thread - seems they do keep that one quiet! http://forums.sonyinsider.com/topic/6161-help-anyone-have-access-to-an-mds-e10-pro-deck/?do=findComment&comment=193364
  16. True. Even on their ‘budget’ ranges I would expect Sony is using good quality components. The MDS-E10 I’m trying to fix is stuffed full of Nichicon Fine Gold caps in the audio stages...
  17. Great stuff! Getting the remote is indeed a rare event! 2 minutes hmmm. I wonder if there is some capacitor in the power supply that is a bit aged and taking a while before the supply rails are settling...
  18. There isn’t a fixed default value. Each laser is graded at manufacture against a reference light output and the required current to achieve this is recorded as the IOP value. Each laser will be different. The IOP value is on a label on each laser and is also captured in the EEPROM on the BD board. This is read using I2C by the deck motherboard microprocessor. This is why you can replace the drive unit without changing any settings because the characterisation data required for the laser is carried with it in that EEPROM on the drive.
  19. Ha excellent! Good buy! You see, you're getting suckered in...! It won't be long before you've picked up another machine... and a fist full of MDs and... If it wasn't so late here now I'd be pulling my 530 off the shelf and having a fiddle! (If it make you feel any better I've been spending hours recently with my MDS-E10 trying to work out why the heck it isn't working. I've written pages on here already on my trials a few months back and I'm still no closer to getting the little bugger working... and I've been so far now with an oscilloscope comparing it with a working machine and I'm still none-the-wiser!). Just for you I've just shoved a disc in my 530 which hasn't been on for a couple of months. Nope, it's just spit the disc out without reading it. Let's poke it back in again...! Tries 3,4,5 it reads. Tries 6,7,8 it doesn't. Pah! When mine works you can hear the sled operating inside. When it doesn't read you don't hear anything.
  20. I think I had that theory for a bit with my 530 but I'm not sure it holds out - the laser is only on when the unit is working a disc, so having the unit on to "warm up the laser" should be a non-starter. As for "warming up" the other logic, you'd be correct in that the chips will experience self-heating when the deck is on, but I'm not sure in an idle state the increase from ambient would be that significant. Even in operation I don't think they get even warm. None of the logic or mixed-signal chips (CXD/CXA parts) have heatsinks. Only the linear regulators in the power supply section do. However I'm happy to hear out your theory and see if it stands your soak-test!
  21. Yes you're correct with the power figures. Glad your machine is working more reliably. My MDS-JE530 is sounding more and more like your experience. Maybe I should be brave and really bump up the read power! Looking back at my post, it looks like I went as far as 3 steps up and down, but it didn't really fix the issue. Regarding LPMs, I'm in the same situation. Stephen (user sfbp, infinitely nice and helpful) has said that the Sanwa LP-1 is a usable unit and I've been hopeful to buy one over the past few months. However the only eBay supplier with stock in the EU let me down on an order promising new stock which has yet to materialise after several months. If I order direct from China or Japan I'll be hit with a fairly large customs and/or VAT bill on import which, like with you, make the whole cost basis a little on the excessive side for the use it would get. Still, I do seem to have 11 (eek!) machines now with 2 needing attention. On which note, speaking from experience (I had my 2 original machines 2 years ago, I now have 11), watch yourself. It starts with one machine and before you know it, you'll have a workshop full!!! :-D Regards, Kevin
  22. I'm never fully convinced by upping the laser power on a unit that we don't think has been run to the limits of it's life before we got it. The mechanical inconsistency is interesting. I don't know what the expected service life is of the grease. In my units it looks fine, but I wonder if it becomes more viscous over the years? Would it make sense to work through all of the plastic sliders and racks - those involved with loading the disk - as well as the stainless steel parts related to the laser sled, and clean and refresh the grease? How many "minor steps" did you increase your laser read power? When I was trying to get a "salvaged" 530 working reliably I did do one or two steps up and down, but it did not noticably help.
  23. Great news! Hmmm wondering now if a temperamental MDS-JE530 I have on the shelf is suffering the same stickiness! Let us know how it goes! Kevin
  24. Welcome! Glad to have you join the ‘gang’! Initial thoughts could this be a sticky sled? In service mode maybe spend a couple of minutes using << and >> to move the sled back and forward a few times to spread the grease around. I don’t think you’ll need new grease but in case you get tempted you need to clean the old off and use Molykote (details on another post somewhere from me, I’ll try to find a link). Good luck! Kevin Here we are:
  25. There is no coin cell backup battery or any other separate battery in any of my units E10, E12, JE5xx series. Edit: I was wrong above. There is a Panasonic ML2020 or similar in all "recent" machines (at least since 520, probably before). It's main purpose is to preserve a modified TOC is mains power is lost to the machine before the TOC is updated on disc. I did replace this battery in one of my E10s, but it didn't solve the problem I was having, even though the cell was reading a little low (even after having the machine switched on for a while which charges it). Kevin
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