kgallen

I have the exact same on a N505. I resoldered the headphone jack but it didn’t help. Pressing gently around the headphone amp chip on the PCB got back full operation so my fear is there is a broken joint somewhere in that circuitry rather than the jack itself. As you say it’s tiny surface mount stuff so no chance of getting even my finest soldering tip in there without blobbing lots of solder shorts all over the place! So I’m intrigued if any of your ideas work... Kevin

Great story. Hope the drive transplant goes well. I suspect the main PCB and power supply is good too. Maybe the failed audio is a killed output cap if some Neanderthal abused the poor thing by back-driving it from say a power amp. Is it both channels failed? If so possibly the output stage op amp which would be trickier to replace as it will be surface mount. Any news on the analogue input side?

Bought mine new too and it’s never been out of the box since a couple of weeks later I did your option 1). I think it was my E12 but same result!

Random, sorry, but I just dug up the Behringer manual page on SCMS for the SRC2496 so thought I’d capture the section here for reference (yes I know you can download the pdf from the Behri website). This also shows all 4 combinations of the two binary digits.

The only disc I’ve ever scrapped is a TDK RXG where the disc surface looked like it had gone ‘rusty’ - specs of reddy brown in patches. It wouldn’t read or record. Otherwise I have Sony, TDK, Maxell, BASF, maybe the odd Sanyo. Some look nicer when in the wrapper than when unwrapped!

Probably don't need to swap the plastic facia - swap the PCB behind it with the buttons and display. And certainly just swap the drive, don't risk transplanting that OWH (although actually that process is probably a couple of tiny pozi screws and a 2-pin header). But overall if you put the silver drive in the black machine are you done? ETA; Ha @BearBoy just beat me to it with a much more succinct answer!

Good call @NGY. ‘Dry joint’ is what I’d know a bad joint as. However in your example I think that’s a stress fracture. But I think they have the same consequence - a poor and highly resistive joint. Sounds like you had yourself a solder joint low pass filter!

Give us more information. Like what did you do to awaken the chipmunks? 480 doesn’t have a pitch shift function that I can see in the UM.

Cases arrived this morning. Agree they are a nice case (kids are loving them for their MDs! :-D ). The case will also fit (just) an MZ-B10 (left photo). There is a cute zippered back pocket that will hold AA batteries and a velcro one that will hold probably 3 MDs in cases. Also the back pocket can un-velcro at the bottom and will then fit a small smart phone like an iPhone 5s (as modelled here by my son!).

As my trial above shows, it ignores SCMS in the input SPDIF and sets it on the recorded track per the Copy Bit menu setting. What do you mean by ‘strip’ compared to ignore (in the context of the E10)? I realise other machines may ignore on the input and ‘strip’ for the output because they don’t have a means to allow the user to configure them (effectively a ‘copy bit killer’). If I get time I’ll try similar on my E12 but it’s probably the same as the E10.

I get the impression SCMS was never enforced in the J model - maybe not enforced in any J MD model? Would be interesting if anyone other than Techmoan has some Japan-sourced machine and if any of them give a hoot to SCMS adherence.

I thought I saw a definition for GC and UC somewhere but after posting above I couldn't find it again to reference as I thought there might be a query (and here it is!). For sure, UC was USA and Canada. I think GC covered everywhere else they seem to have specific locale designations for (EU/GB, AUS, J). Ah here we go:

The different SCMS behaviour we (may) see between E10 machines could be down to a change made on later machines. I have "Supplement-1" to the E10 Service Manual (probably from Elektrotanya) and it describes a different resistor configuration for the SCMS setting. Which way this takes SCMS handling is not clear, it just says "now do this". Note in the schematic the interesting point, pin 87 (pin list=AVSS,schematic=SCMS) versus pin 72 (pin list=SCMS, schematic=CDR/MD) (see schematic, 3rd image) If you're intrigued by R435 (which is not on the schematic), it's just a resistor that can pull up pin 87, whereas R434 pulls it down - fit one only otherwise you'll create a power supply short (see PCB layout, 4th image). Note: red/blue annotations added by me.

Right, here goes. I set up my Sony MDS-E10 PRO and my Tascam MD-350 and connected them only via an optical TOSLINK cable (both machines have both optical in and out). I have 4 discs: - Blue is the "master disc" - an MO MD that was dubbed in LP2 from a commercial CD using a Tascam MD-CD1 Mk1. So this is a 1st Gen Digital Copy of a CD. - I have Yellow, Purple , Black MO MD discs that I make successive generation copies on where permitted. The MDS-E10 PRO has a menu option "Copy Bit" that can take one of 3 setting: Permit, Inhibit, PreRecorded. 1) MD-350 --TOSLINK--> MDS-E10 PRO For the first step I play a disc track on the MD-350 and record on the MDS-E10 PRO. I make successive copies of a track Blue -> Yellow then Yellow -> Purple then Purple -> Black. I repeat for all settings of Copy Bit on the MDS-E10 PRO. Conclusion: - MDS-E10 PRO will copy (record) via optical TOSLINK, a disc track played on the MD-350 of *any* generation that was recorded with *any* Copy Bit setting used when that track was recorded on the MDS-E10 PRO. The drive in the MDS-E10 PRO is MDM7SC (SC=serial copy?). On Yellow, Purple and Black discs I now have a set of tracks recorded with each setting of Copy Bit on the MDS-E10 PRO, where Tk1=Permit, Tk2=Inhibit, Tk3=PreRec and Yellow=1st Gen Copy (i.e. a copy of a Blue track), Purple=2nd Gen Copy (i.e. a copy of the respective Yellow track), Black=3rd Gen Copy (i.e. a copy of the respective Purple track). 2) MDS-E10 --TOSLINK--> MD-350 Now I reverse the TOSLINK connection and play on the MDS-E10 PRO and record (where permitted) on the MD-350. MDS-E10 PRO has the Copy Bit setting at Permit (but I now see this setting is irrelevant for playback). This is where I make some further generation copies where I can, but recording using the MD-350 which I presume obeys SCMS coming in on the TOSLINK. Blue Tk -> Cannot Copy Yellow Tk1 (Permit) -> Copy to Purple Tk4 Yellow Tk2 (Inhibit) -> Cannot Copy Yellow Tk3 (PreRec) -> Copy to Purple Tk5 Purple Tk1 (Permit) -> Copy to Black Tk4 Purple Tk2 (Inhibit) -> Cannot Copy Purple Tk3 (PreRec) -> Copy to Black Tk5 Purple Tk4 (Permit) -> Copy to Black Tk6 Purple Tk5 (PreRec) -> Cannot Copy Black Tk1 (Permit) -> Copy to Yellow Tk4 Black Tk2 (Inhibit) -> Cannot Copy Black Tk3 (PreRec) -> Copy to Yellow Tk5 Black Tk4 (Permit) -> Copy to Yellow Tk6 Black Tk5 (PreRec) -> Cannot Copy Black Tk6 (Permit) -> Copy to Yellow Tk7 So after all of that, some readers are laughing their socks off, because the results are unsurprising. So, recording on a machine that honours SCMS (the MD-350): - Tracks with the track recorded as Permit can be copied digitally without generational limit (well at least 3 times) -> the Permit propagates down the generations. - Tracks recorded as Inhibit cannot be copied. In addition a track dubbed digitally from a CD cannot be copied (using a Tascam MD-CD1 Mk1 at least). - Tracks recorded as PreRec can be copied once only. Hope that clears it up. Kevin

You could be right. What this means is you're going to make me go back into the shed in the rain and get out a bunch of MD machines and find out...

No worries! Not exactly a masterpiece - much better examples seen on this forum! As you say over on TH, is there an MDS-E10 and a MDS-E10 PRO? I'm pretty sure my original-still-not-working-no-I-dont-want-to-talk-about-it E10 just says "MDS-E10" on the display when it starts, i.e. not "MDS-E10 PRO" like in the video above. It won't initialise far enough that I could get into the menu system to look. Maybe the chap on TH has a "non-PRO" and this doesn't have the menu item. Maybe that is a conundrum we can resolve soon, so please report back on what happens over on TH! ETA 04/Sep/21: Indeed there does seem to be a difference - machines that don't say "PRO" on the startup screen don't seem to have the Copy Bit menu item in Setup (regardless of the resistor settings shown in the SM Supplement for SCMS). However it's possible, but not proven yet, that they ignore SCMS (possibly dependent on those resistor settings in the SM Supplement) but just can't be configured for the Copy Bit setting to write to the disc.

This any use for your chap on TH? (Sorry, useless at this video stuff - on the phone these 14secs were 25MB and I managed to shrink to 5MB - but still not sure why it's so big...) From what @bluecrab said on the thread linked above, you need to select "Permit". The video below is from turning it on with the power button. There was no disc in the machine. (If you're wondering, the machine below the MDS-E10 is a Tascam 112 cassette deck that I rescued and refurbed a few months back - see my other waffly threads on my first encounter with LP4 and audio books from the charity shop...) MDSE10_SCMS.mp4

Is it possible the SCMS was forced in some territories (e.g. US) and allowed to be programmable in other (e.g. EU)? i.e. in US versions you don't get the SCMS menu options - on the E10 at least, don't know about the E12.

I think it depends on your E10 - some start up "MDS-E10" and some "MDS-E10 PRO". Possibly only the PRO version (which I think is just a later version of the E10, no way to tell them apart when off!) has the menu options. These are as my observations on my E12 (I think this was my first SIF post!). Kevin

Could be Win10 and that sound card? I had that card installed in my Win10 desktop machine up to a few months ago (because it's one of the few with optical TOSLINK in and out) and it just got more and more unreliable to use. Swapped it for a Startech PEXSOUND7CH which seems to have been more reliable. I always have the problem with sound cards not working after the PC has been into "sleep" mode though, like the driver doesn't reinitialise it when the PC wakes up. Never found a satisfactory solution to that one despite copious googling.

Right, yer on trust, 'cos I just bought 4! Good spot!

Thanks for sharing your work Nicolas, it’s always good to have some accurate templates. Also nice to hear the process you went through - the journey is often the most interesting part!

Great news! Thanks for the follow up and pictures which will no doubt help others. At least we’ve had one success this month - they’ve been in short supply recently! Kevin

Agree I've just been looking at my copy of the service manual and as you say no mention of service mode which is... maddening. I've also been having a good google since my last post and have found nothing better. So the gears you've been winding have been moving the sled along. This carries both the OP (optical pickup - the laser assembly) and the OWH (overwrite head) which is the floppy bit that comes down on the top side of the disc if the disc needs to be written. On Exploded View-2 (SM p13) OP = item (15) , OWH = item (25) On the drive in the Tascam MD-801R, there is a gear that lifts the OWH off the surface of the disc, then continues rotating to eject the disc. I don't know the mechanism in the MD-350 but you need to be looking for something similar. It may have a cam that traces in a gear. Admittedly I can't see anything like this on Exploded View-2 although it's not the clearest copy I have. Whatever, we need to get the mech to lift the OWH from the surface of the disc and then eject, otherwise we're going to ruin it. So leaving alone that one that moves the sled, can you find anything else accessible that you can rotate (other than the disc itself). Unless you can see it operating the OWH lifter or elect slider mechanism, as you did above, don't force anything beyond where is happily wants to move. Kevin

Right we need the deck to forget the dirty TOC. Possible idea - pull the mains plug out just after pressing eject. Then after repowering have your finger on eject. If not then possibly we need to find the service mode runes to do a forced eject. If nor that then the lid needs to come off to wind the gears to get the disc out (once we’ve freed any OWH).