Jump to content

The Low Volta

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The Low Volta

  1. - if you insist on using SS, go for Atrac advanced lossless in any of the bitrates (as you are going to transfer them in realtime, the bitrate doesn't matter as you'll be using the entire lossless file) ...but... - as you're using realtime and won't use any of SS's features anyhow, why not switch to a better music library system like foobar2000 or something else and use the open lossless format: FLAC Just use Exact Audio Copy to rip the CD's and install the FLAC codec so you can convert to FLAC automatically from within EAC (allt his is explained in the FLAC/EAC faqs you can easily find on the web and use foobar for gapless playback of the lossless files and you'll have: (1) the best quality SP you could get; (2) full SQ backup of the CD's you don't own ...eh... do own but want to backup just in case they might get burnt or something (the music industry might read this ) (3)a better, lighter, open source, free,... music library management system
  2. CD's can be protected nonetheless in the EU... they simply can't carry the audioCD logo then. And indeed you can get your cash back if you buy a cd with the logo AND CP... but then you still do not have the music...
  3. @1kyle: if you're going to compare formats and the way you put the music on MD (SS or optical) at least use the same setup for listening to them... use the RH1 and the best possible headphone you have in stead of a deck with optical out and a portable player with analog out
  4. not 'better', but as far as SQ is concerned, the same as method (1), only a bit more cumbersome/timeconsuming and it needs a CDr (one could use CDrw though ) and a good CD-player or soundcard with optical out... so I would value it as 'worse by lack of practicality' IMHO PS: as you'd need an RH1 for method (2), I really only see two options: - you do not have the RH1, but all the stuff to do method (1) -> it is the best option - you do have the RH1 -> just record in HiSP or PCM and enjoy the ease AND preserved SQ of method (2)b Otherwise, I don't see why one would go through method (2) using SP... unless you are recording on a deck with timer functions etc perhaps
  5. ok, first a couple of basics: - legacy formats: SP = atrac @ 292kbps; LP2 = atrac3 @ 132kbps - HiMD formats: HiSP = atrac3+ @ 256kbps; PCM = lineair wav @ 1411kbps first method: MD-MD (optically): i.e. you record in SP and then 'rerecord' it to a second MD in SP so the steps here are: - recording in SP -> lossy compression @ 292kbps - output is digital so no SQ-degradation - rerecording on second MD in SP -> 2nd lossy compression @ 292kbps (unless digital rerecording would be bitperfect, but I really doubt that) second method: MD-PC-MD: i.e. you record in SP, upload with RH1 to PCM, download to MD in (pseudo-)SP, the steps again: - recording in SP -> lossy compression @ 292kbps - transfer = digital so no SQ-degradation - storage on PC is in PCM (SP doesn't exist on PC, so you need to choose between HiSP or PCM) so the SP gets 'filled in' with 'zeros' till 1411kbps (but SQ doesn't get any better than the original SP recording) - downloading to MD as SP... this is the main issue so I'll just focus a bit more on this step: * as said above, there currently is no SP on PC, the atrac (not atrac3 or atrac3+) codec hasn't been developed for/ported to PC yet hence the choice to store the uploaded SP as either HiSP or PCM. * as there is no SP possible on PC, Sony searched for a way to download 'something that SP-only players could read' to MD nonetheless * the solution Sony came up with was to convert what you were trying to download to MD to LP2 (atrac3 @ 132kbps) on your PC (in SonicStage) (why LP2 and not HiSP? because it had to be compatible with non-HiMD NetMD players as well... * this LP2 file is transfered through USB to your MD * in you MD, the LP2-file gets 'rerecorded' or 'reconverted' to the SP-format... but as SQ-degradation is a one-way process (you can't get SQ back by converting a low-bitrate file to a higher bitrate one), this will sound like an LP2-file still and even slightly worse because it has been reconverted once more (from LP2 to SP) - so summarizing this means PCM (1411kbps) (but only at the original SP-292kbps-SQ) gets converted to LP2 (132kbps) (this is a lossy reconversion AND to a lower bitrate as well so definitely leads to a certain SQ-degradation) - then the LP2 is digitally transfered through USB (no SQ-degradation) - the LP2 gets 'reconverted' to SP in your MD so lossy reconversion again... which (even though bitrate increases from 132kbps->292kbps) leads to (slight) SQ-degradation as the second way passes through more lossy conversion-steps and has a lower-bitrate step in the chain and SQ-degradation is a one-way process whereby the lowest quality at any point in the process greatly determines the end-SQ ((1)-> 292kbps; (2)->132kbps) it should be clear that the SQ should be better preserved through method 1 SP is the only (Hi-)MD format that isn't present on PC, so using any other (Hi-)MD format this would be different as the second method would be: - original recording in HiSP (as an example, it is the same for all non-SP formats) = lossy compression to atrac3+ @ 256kbps - uploading through USB -> digital, no SQ-degradation - storage on PC = the transfered file, so HiSP without any further conversion or loss in SQ - downloading to MD is again digital and without any conversion or degradation so should be the same SQ as the original recording (though again it probably won't be bit-perfect) as PCM is considered to be lossless (full-SQ that CD can offer) the above with PCM should give you lossless SQ in the end as well all of this misses some nuance etc., but I still hope this helps to understand it a little *edited for typos and for clarity in a couple of places
  6. - converting to lossy formats does induce loss in SQ (but this can often be very hard to hear when high bitrates are involved) - converting to lossless formats (i.e. the uncompressed stuff like wav, PCM and the compressed things like FLAC, wavepack, WMA-lossless, ...) doesn't affect SQ. It doesn't lower SQ, nor raise SQ, it simply keeps what was there in the first place without adding/substracting anything... so please KanakoEtc., check the facts before posting and besides, the reconverting/SQ-issue isn't really relevant to the original question as this thread is about MP3-playback failure
  7. ever heard of HiMD? it really is great as you can upload your recordings to PC and burn to CD and distribute / sell... the best budget option (NH700) sells pretty cheap nowadays (new, while MDLP would be sued at least and a used unit might die on you pretty soon and cost more in the end) if you ever get a couple of bits uploaded to computer, be sure to share 'em through the gallery and win some fans good luck in your search and do stick around on MDCF... lots of MD-related info/recording tips here
  8. hi KanakoAndTheNumbSkulls, welcome to the forums... hope you enjoy MDCF as much as I (and a lot of other pll) do! just as a helpful hand... you are replying to a post stemming from April 2006... not to criticize you at all, but unless you've got really something remarkable to add (and saying LP4 and even LP2 do not really sound very good isn't considered as 'new' ) it really isn't necessary to reply to posts that old... especially if all the questions in the post you rplied to can easily be answered by 1) reading the user manual/SonicStage help or 2) do a simple search on these forums hope we'll see lots of posts from you further on! Best wishes, Volta
  9. hi and welcome to MDCF... (a quick search would have learned you that) only the M-models (MZ-M10, M100, M200) and the RH1 offer mac-compatability. All, I repeat, ALL the other MD's, NetMD's, HiMD up to now do not offer mac-compatibility no matter what software you install... PS, as you have a macbook, just install a very light version of windows and run SonicStage... you will have upload abilities then and do not need to invest in a new PC or a new HiMD
  10. the reminder: please do not create double threads... the answer: LP2 = atrac3 @ 132kbps the truth: a quick look in the user manual, a search on these forums or a quick browse of minidisc.org could have told you this as well (and those options would also give you an explanation of atrac3 and 132kbps and the other possible formats etc.)
  11. found an affected CD and posted some pics in this thread
  12. yes, but then you aren't 'listening' to both, are you? You are talking about 'ignoring' one and 'listening' to the other...I guess lots of ppl can do that, but that is kinda rude; either towards the person you're pretending to converse with or towards the music. Honestly, my first suggestion would be to split up actions. - Either be social, have a talk and perhaps put on some background music for the both of you (over speakers or share the second bud)... perhaps the person talking to you might enjoy some musical distraction as well, as talking with someone partly distracted (like you 'listening' to both sources at once) can be pretty boring! - Or lock yourself out of the world and tune into the music... unless you consciously select rubbish with semi-attention in mind already, most music you buy should be valuable enough to deserve your full attention (and not in mono either). really, I do not think I could respect someone who zones out partly during a conversation by listening to music ... and I do not think any of my friends/family could either. ...but if you are really sure about what you are doing... I'd suggest getting a decent pair of open phones (cheapest but very good value for money are Sennheiser px100 or Koss KSC75), tell your companion what open means (that you can actually hear most of the things around you so they can address you if they feel the need) and still have the courtesy to take 'em off for a sec while the conversation lasts... if this is even too much effort for you... I'd rather suggest for your possible companions not to talk to you
  13. - from SS3.4 on, the one-time-only limit on uploading was dropped - legacy discs (60/74/80 min discs recorded - NOT transfered - in LP4/LP2 or SP) can be set to 'write protect' (with the plastic tab on the disc) and still uploaded (with the RH1 -> PC as said before). But HiMD recordings (1gb discs for sure and I believe with HiMD-formatted 60/74/80 min discs as well) need to allow writing to upload IMHO, MD still doesn't classify as a very good archive medium but mainly for other reasons (I'd prefer a technology whose future wasn't questioned every few months and whose player/recorders last mroe than a couple of years)...but that is just my view of course
  14. I'm not near my CD collection until this weekend, but I'll take some pics then... (I think I still have a disintegrated targa disc laying around somewhere) the top layer (the metalish side where you write the title etc, not the shiny metal but covered in pastic side) consists of a very thin layer of an expensive metal and something to reinforce/cover that layer. With the CDR's I lost, very small bits of both the metal and the thin cover layer on the outer edges of the top surface actually let go of the clear plastic disc. This could be seen by holding the CD towards a lightsource and noticing that the edge (of the layer, not of the disc) wasn't smooth anymore. At a later stage, quite big 'flakes' a couple of mm's diameter could be chipped of easily with my fingernail (without applying pressure, just by 'touching' the CD with my nail where I suspected a weakness according to the other test) further I have also found an imation disc that showed 'holes' in the top layers when held against the light (so unuseable) and a Sony 50 CDR spindle contained three discs that simply weren't covered with any top layers (just a couple of clear discs) which I had them switch of course EDIT: Beware: these are only symptoms I noticed with my own discs! I do not dare to say that any disc will be safe as long as it doesn't show these signs ... only that a disc most certainly will be on the verge of being history if it does. I do not have a decent source (only speaking from personal experience here) but if you wan't more security/better early symptoms to recognize deteriorating before it gets dangerous for the data I'd recommend searching the web or asking the brands themselves or something. I do not take any responsibility for lost audio/data caused by 'waiting' for these (quite extreme) symptoms to pop up
  15. wayward... you can always have a read in my PX100/D66SL review (linked in the first post I believe) or if you want a very quick answer: - they look cheap 'cause they are cheap... but they sound pretty darn expensive (lots of ppl call them - together with the Koss KSC75 - simply the best or more realistically the best value-for-money portable headphone in existence) - they do NOT really block out external noise so they aren't really suited for noisy environments (city streets) as they make you listen at much higher volumes than 1) you normally do and worse 2) is good for your ears
  16. MD's are much more stable as a medium as far as I know... but the players/recorders on the other hand do not have infinite lifespans (far from it with certain models even) so I wouldn't really be afraid of the discs disintegrating or something, but if Sony at one time stops the production of MD-recorders/players your data/music could become ultimately safely 'stuck' on an inaccessible medium
  17. as I said, have fun experimenting a bit if the situation permits you... and be sure to post some bits so we can all learn (and enjoy the music of course)
  18. Factory pressed CD's do last for a very long time, but CDR/W's use a very thin silver (or gold or other sorts of metal) layer (which is actually the surface you write the title on with a soft-tip marker and hence the reason you need to use a soft-tip instrument and not a pencil). This layer is know to degrade with time and I have had numerous discs of which the layer slowly came off. It starts by a bit of chipping at the edges (which often aren't used for data unless you use the whole capacity right up to the limit). This isn't noticed at first but: 1) it doesn't stop there and soon the rest of the layer starts flaking; and 2) it can ruin delicate instruments like CD-players as the flakes stick to things they shouldn't stick to... I've had this happen with CDR's after only 6 years of infrequent use, while some others have lasted for 15 years already and have been played much more often. It seems to be a thing of built quailty (so brands/makes) more than age/use. I do still use CDR, but not as a long living storage medium (so never as the only repository of irreplacable data/music) and I do check all my CDR's for flaking before I put them in any decent CD-player/CDROM-drive
  19. ah... only using HiMD for recording, I never gave any thought to playback autopause... please ignore my post and good luck in your search (perhaps a footpedal could help?)
  20. when plugged into the computer it should never say 'XX min left', just charging. When plugged in (computer or ac-adapter) it can take a few sec for the RH1 to realize it is charging so if you haven't waited at all this could be it (took about 40 secs at one time with my RH1). Have you checked the battery is inserted correctly? if nothing works and performance seems really strange, do not hesitate and return it as fast as possible (or perhaps demand a battery switch first if they will do that)... no need to accept a faulty machine of course PS: not applicable here, but nonetheless interesting for random readers: when the battery still is nearly full, the machine won't say charging or 'XX min left' but it might still be recharging the last 20%
  21. what do you mean, that it stops when the input volume drops (as the set is done) or is it enough that it adds a trackmarck when the volume drops? the first I haven't seen on any HiMD yet, the second is quite standard (it can't even be shut off ) and as HiMD offers 8 hours/1 gb disc in very good compressed quality (HiSP) this shouldn't make you run out of disc space at all
  22. I'm definitely with you on the aux-part... but I'm a fan of my in-car CD-player! My girlfriend and I will never agree on radio stations (I like the alternative one better and she's into commercial 80's stuff...) but we do have a few CD's that we both can agree on, but only ten of them or so. No need to keep a whole stash of CD's in my car cause when I have to ride for long(er) stretches, my girlfriend is with me and she just loves acting as a lazy DJ giving all those mutual CD's a bit of playtime according to her state of mind and when I'm alone I mostly only need my car for a relatively short distance and I just love to put on my one favorite CD of the moment / turn to the one radio station I can stand / scan the radio freqs and enjoy myself nagging about the rubbish they dare to air... so yes, I would've loved an aux, and to a lesser degree MP3 CD in my car, but as I got a decent Sony CD/tuner system with my second-hand car I won't complain at all HiMD would be ok, but really not even necessary and I don't think I would spend money on it...but I would definitely resell...uhm, throw out a legacy MD-player as I do not feel the need at all to create special in-car legacy discs. I'd rather enjoy the time outside my car with great quality music and the time in my car with my eyes/ears focused on the road (saw just too many car-crashes from lack of attention recently... some involving very close friends and not their lack of attention either)
  23. I think I can't/shouldn't add much to greenmachine's answer (he's often right you now that's why we buy his mics as well ) but just to let you know that recording a good organ is ne of the most difficult sources to capture in their full range IMHO. A good organ has not only a vey wide frequency reach (can produce extreme highs and lows) but also a very wide dynamic range (it can switch from intimately quiet to overwhelmingly loud in very little time) I have been talking to a guy that was present at a professional recording session in the Notre Dame de Paris quite some time ago for a record and he was telling me about all the difficulties even a very proficient and well-trained crew had to position mics correctly and set recording levels so the full sound of the organ would be captured... I haven't tried it miself, but if you do succeed at capturing something you are happy with please share (and even if you're not content, share it so we can try and give tips to improve the recording) but most of all: have fun recording!
  24. really you should check the cost... cause last time I sent a disc from Belgium -> US it really didn't cost much... and you'd get something in return as well afterall
  • Create New...