Avrin

Why would you need a remote with a unit with such a great display and controls?

For Hi-MD - ATRAC3plus 256 kbit/s or 352 kbit/s, created in SonicStage. The latter (352 kbit/s) is simply unbeatable. Of course you may also use LPCM, which has the best quality available, but occupies much more space. Use your ears! For MD SP the only chance is to record via optical in on an ATRAC Type-R capable portable or a good deck.

If you need to volume-hack your European RH910 AND keep the titling function, you may set address 0113 to 20 (US), which removes the volume limitation and keeps the English titling function, or to 23 (Japan), which also removes the volume limitation, and gives the capability to title in both English and Katakana.

I would also advise using the new cheap IDE drive for anything that doesn't actually require a SATA drive. This way the SATA drive will last much longer.

The need to enable DOLBY B NR depends on the quality of the source material. If this is a cassette that you have recorded yourself on the same deck with DOLBY B (or even C) enabled, then you should try enabling it during playback. This should make the frequency response flat in the appropriate range, and leave just enough highs. In case of pre-recorded cassettes or cassettes recorded on another equipment, experiments will help. If enabling DOLBY B NR leaves enough highs - use it. Otherwise, don't. And don't forget that you'll almost always have to adjust the head azimuth for each side of a pre-recorded cassette, the process of which is an exact science by itself. After adjusting the azimuth, fast-forward the cassette to the end, and rewind it back, so the tape is smoothly laid out, and the azimuth does not change. Ideal playback is not always possible, especially on cheap clear glued cassettes, which often have required parts missing. If you have a precious record on such a cassette and want to do the transfer in the best possible way, you may consider disassembling it (by accurately cutting along the seam and breaking the cassette open) and moving the tape to a good cassette mechanism. You'll have to change the reels too, since they are oftern deformed in cheap cassettes.

I've seen transfers stopping unexpectedly. Rebooting the computer usually helps.

The Euro version is easy to tell - it has EU8 printed in bold at the top left corner of the bar code sticker on the box. It's not as crippled as second generation units, BTW.

Turns out there is also a direct link to a web-installer for this version. Here: http://dl1.aii.co.jp/contents/connect/_dat...geInstaller.exe It installs the program, and some updated drivers, which look to me like the ones re-designed for the Japanese 16 Gbyte ATRAC flash player series. You may separately download the drivers here: http://dl1.aii.co.jp/contents/connect/_dat...r/pa_driver.zip There is no version for any other languages except Japanese. Believe me, I've checked all SONY servers I know about.

What's strange is the fact that the Readme.txt file for SonicStage doesn't mention that it requires an IDE drive. Only a Windows Media Driver compatible drive is needed. Is your drive normally seen/working from other applications, such as Nero? Is Windows Media Player able to extract music from it?

The RH1 used to cost about $320 from SonyStyle here in Russia, including shipment from Finland (I got my second one this way). Now it costs about $410 from them. Although there is a couple of shops here in Moscow that still sell them for about $360. But there seems to be no way to buy Hi-MD blanks in Russia anymore.

Here's the actual MDAC setup used by the SonicStage 4.3 web-installer: http://dl1.aii.co.jp/contents/connect/_dat...taller/mdac.zip Unzip and run the MDAC_TYP.EXE file.

See Tweak #3 here: http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?s=&am...st&p=127856 You may want to backup the registry key in case you'll need the CONNECT functionality back.

I don't have a SACD player, but some of my discs are hybrid SACD/CD issues. No problems at all. They rip nicely and CDDB works perfectly. And they play fine on my CD and DVD players (the CD layer of course).

No, the program is no longer being developed.

Actually, you can't control the unit with the remote in the line out mode. If you press any button or adjust volume on the remote, the unit immediately switches to headphone out.

Actually, since the RM-MC60 does not have a display, no digital signal is transferred to it, so it does not bring any additional distortion or noise to the sound. And, as I have written elsewhere, the RH1 is even able to work in the LINE OUT mode through the RM-MC60, as long as you don't press any buttons. As for durability, believe it or not, but two my 12-year old Li-Ion batteries for a SONY camcorder are still giving me juice for 2.5 hours of operation. Just as if they were new! I store them fully discharged, despite all recommendations. And they were really heavily used in 2002-2005!

It is possible that the service center readjusted the unit. There is a procedure to adjust battery control and charging, but it is quite complex, and requires that the unit be taken apart and connected to measuring instruments. Cleaning the contacts of the battery and the unit may also significantly increase battery operating time.

The switch may have oxidized. Try opening and closing the lid several times - this may break the oxide.

Seems like two sets of drivers are on same page you downloaded the M-Crew software from. Try the one for Windows 2000. It should be compatible with Windows XP.

Hardly. Deteriorated genuine batteries simply lose their characteristics, but will never swell or explode.

Better get a GP gumstick charger complete with two supplied gumsticks. Some users here have reported unbelievable RH10 operating times using these batteries charged by the charger, even when recording in LPCM. The cause of this is that the unit itself is afraid to charge even its own battery completely. Presumably it charges to about 900 mAh only.

This definitely sounds like a fake. I had some bad experience with a fake chinese NH-14WM in 2006, purchased in a completely serious store (turned out they hadn't known of it being a fake, and they disposed of all the remaining ones after I told them it's a fake). It didn't hold the juice properly, so I disposed of it the day after I bought it, since I'd already read the horror stories here. It didn't look exactly like the one on the photos (it was grey). But the signs of it being a fake were as follows: 1. MADE IN JAPAN. The original NH-14WM, which came with my RH10, was made in China. Although the NH-10WM, which later came with my RH910, IS made in Japan. 2. The supplied plastic battery carrying case is slightly bigger than the one of the original battery. 3. It was an NH-14WM, but on the lower side it said that you should use a charger for the NH-10WM to charge it. Hope your unit is OK!

Not quite so, since you are still using the player itself after connecting a remote. And the NH600 is not supplied with a remote just to make it cheaper.

Still no Worldwide/Walkman release, only Japanese/VAIO.

Bought a sealed NH600 this December. Warm sound, nice analog amp and great battery life. Strongly recommended to anyone wanting a cheap portable. To avoid jog wheel wear simply connect a remote. The blind RM-MC60 will do.