bluecrab Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 Not having said anything for some time, I just wanted to note that my Sony MDS-E10 is making a fine DDC (digital-to-digital converter). I had not intended this use. CDP (via optical) > E10 (via coax) > standalone DAC (via RCA) > powered speakers. Simply connecting the CDP to the E10 was physically easier for me, and resulted in less cable clutter behind the DAC. I do wish the on/off button on the E10 worked, but it does not. The deck is connected to a rocker switch, and powered on/off that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 And a VU meter in for the bargain! 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1JWR Posted April 9, 2023 Report Share Posted April 9, 2023 been using a 930 as a dac for yonks on a marantz cd63ki, via rca coaxial, improves the sound quite a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 13 hours ago, M1JWR said: been using a 930 as a dac for yonks on a marantz cd63ki, via rca coaxial, improves the sound quite a lot Oh yes, of course, I have used other MD decks as DACs...JB940, JA20ES, JA333ES...more. Interesting to know that about the 63KI. I'm not at all familiar with its SM5872BS DAC, other than the info on its Data Sheet. I do know the 930's CXD8735N, from having owned that deck. Yes, it is justly renowned as sounding good. I have in fact used the E10 as a DAC...not bad at all, but not as good as the 930. Just fine doing its DDC thing, though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 19 hours ago, kgallen said: And a VU meter in for the bargain! 😆 I'll bet you could fix that faulty power switch in 5 minutes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 5 hours ago, bluecrab said: I'll bet you could fix that faulty power switch in 5 minutes! With the right part it wouldn’t be a hard one, it’s a ‘proper’ clunking on/off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearBoy Posted April 11, 2023 Report Share Posted April 11, 2023 What seems to be the problem with the switch, @bluecrab? Do you think it's mechanical or electrical? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearBoy Posted April 11, 2023 Report Share Posted April 11, 2023 On 4/9/2023 at 3:39 PM, M1JWR said: been using a 930 as a dac for yonks on a marantz cd63ki, via rca coaxial, improves the sound quite a lot Interesting. IIRC the CD63KI was a well rated CD player in its day. Shows how good the DACs/analogue circuitry were in some of these MiniDisc decks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 On 4/11/2023 at 8:40 AM, BearBoy said: What seems to be the problem with the switch, @bluecrab? Do you think it's mechanical or electrical? Not sure, because I cannot recall if, when it was working, whether the power button stayed depressed when pushed. (It does not do so now.) Visually I did not see anything amiss inside. I would lean towards "mechanical." I suppose it could be something as simple as a spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearBoy Posted April 12, 2023 Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 I don't have one but @kgallen should be able to confirm how the button is supposed to behave as I think he has about 20 of the things 😉 All my decks are consumer models and they don't "clunk" on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearBoy Posted April 12, 2023 Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 Looking at the user manual, the diagram would suggest the button should stay in when the deck is on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 12, 2023 Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 Yea it’s just like a standard click-click on/off switch rather than a ‘soft touch’ one like on pretty much all Sony consumer decks. So when ‘on’ the button stays in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 12, 2023 Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 2 hours ago, BearBoy said: I don't have one but @kgallen should be able to confirm how the button is supposed to behave as I think he has about 20 of the things 😉 Nearly. Two E10, four E12 and one E12 that has some E10 bits! (And is actually the one I use most as it sits under my work laptop dock 🤣👍). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearBoy Posted April 12, 2023 Report Share Posted April 12, 2023 I wasn’t that far off then 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2023 10 hours ago, BearBoy said: I don't have one but @kgallen should be able to confirm how the button is supposed to behave as I think he has about 20 of the things 😉 All my decks are consumer models and they don't "clunk" on and off. Good point. Right underneath my E10 is an HHB BurnIT CD-R, which does have the clunky on/off. As much as I'd like the E10's power button to work, the deck is one of the two that remain (the other being an MXD-400), and I am wary of messing much with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 On 4/12/2023 at 4:04 PM, kgallen said: Yea it’s just like a standard click-click on/off switch rather than a ‘soft touch’ one like on pretty much all Sony consumer decks. So when ‘on’ the button stays in. So what keeps the button IN and what releases it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 34 minutes ago, bluecrab said: So what keeps the button IN and what releases it? It’s just a standard on/off slide switch and if I remember correctly it’s mounted directly behind the front panel, not actuated by a push-bar. So the actually ‘mechanism’ is part of the switch which will have a latching cam arrangement and a spring to put tension in the operation. Not unlike a click on/off biro type pen. From your description of the symptoms it sounds like the spring is missing, but as it will be mounted around the actuator stem I can’t see how it would ‘just go missing’. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 10 hours ago, kgallen said: It’s just a standard on/off slide switch and if I remember correctly it’s mounted directly behind the front panel, not actuated by a push-bar. So the actually ‘mechanism’ is part of the switch which will have a latching cam arrangement and a spring to put tension in the operation. Not unlike a click on/off biro type pen. From your description of the symptoms it sounds like the spring is missing, but as it will be mounted around the actuator stem I can’t see how it would ‘just go missing’. Thanks! Based on your input, the look & feel, and the E10's SM, I think there is a reasonable chance that it's the spring. There could have been some kind of mishap when the deck was repaired (not by me). IIRC, that's when the issue began. Unfortunately, the repairer is not local, and I don't want to ship the unit back and forth again for this issue. It's apparently stuck in the "On" position, as supplying power to the deck turns in on immediately. I don't recall seeing a spring or anything else where it shouldn't be, but the least I can do is open it up and look again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 I will attempt to photo one of mine shortly to see if the spring is external and you might be able to substitute something similar. Let me see what I can find out… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 Some piccys. Click to get bigger version. Out (off): (Latched) In (on): Markings, overall PCB, schematic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 Switch only Sony part number 1-572-267-21 (Ref Des S901 on the schematics). But it's made by Alps, model SDL1P-A TV-5 (although mine is marked TV-3). Searching around it seems a "common" type of switch for TVs, amplifiers, that sort of equipment. Simple soldering job, only 2 terminals. Here's one, UK only though, but seems like a standard part can be had with threaded holes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153884727081?hash=item23d43e9729:g:uygAAOSw4iJehODb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwHXDYgnppPiEI0xQNNYJiYpNXnCNe8BCn8nylFzfGHRWCkWAyWScnMSlEkOVZisfodriInwZcJ9PV6fCyCY8lAqRPRFf37sFJz%2FT95i21M%2Bo%2BR8%2FGC8xe%2BjH7nNwqmd%2Fdu4fMCOvQes4vhRc2pKxwfumhcx5MiOYDc9SuEqmL9dRThxGlpvTwl9jkT4jTMTnzzxue4u7yHwwbQnid03YG0pdRigqcMgGOX6UIOKbmXvjWQg5JsET3L7E984zDdKg%2BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9yi2ZTwYQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 US but not threaded: https://www.iccfl.com/product_info.php?products_id=23621 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 @bluecrab I've just grabbed a few of those switches from that UK seller. When they arrive, if they look identical to the one in my machine, I'm quite happy to post one over to you if you fancy the repair job. Even if you don't, with the part you should be able to find someone who can do the repair for you, it's not a big job to extract the front panel from the machine and get access to the switch PCB - because that's what I did to take my photos above. If you source locally, try and make sure it's a genuine Alps part. I found some suppliers in China but on closer inspection it was an unbranded part. As this is a switch on the mains supply, I wouldn't advise a "knock-off" part as you don't know the quality of the construction. The E10 doesn't have an earth connection (it's "double insulated"), so you don't want a poor quality switch here as it's in a metal body and screwed to a metal chassis in the machine... If nothing else, I could just send you the spring... 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 14, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 3 hours ago, kgallen said: @bluecrab I've just grabbed a few of those switches from that UK seller. When they arrive, if they look identical to the one in my machine, I'm quite happy to post one over to you if you fancy the repair job. Even if you don't, with the part you should be able to find someone who can do the repair for you, it's not a big job to extract the front panel from the machine and get access to the switch PCB - because that's what I did to take my photos above. If you source locally, try and make sure it's a genuine Alps part. I found some suppliers in China but on closer inspection it was an unbranded part. As this is a switch on the mains supply, I wouldn't advise a "knock-off" part as you don't know the quality of the construction. The E10 doesn't have an earth connection (it's "double insulated"), so you don't want a poor quality switch here as it's in a metal body and screwed to a metal chassis in the machine... If nothing else, I could just send you the spring... 🙂 More than kind of you, Kevin. I will take a look inside the unit. The photos help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 15, 2023 Report Share Posted April 15, 2023 I tried to take some better photos of the markings on top of the switch for future reference. There are no markings on the sides of my switch but are seen on some examples on the internet. Note: The Sony part number is stamped in this example. I don’t believe it’s a custom part though. We’ll see when the ones I’ve ordered come in and I can compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 17, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 On 4/15/2023 at 6:17 AM, kgallen said: I tried to take some better photos of the markings on top of the switch for future reference. There are no markings on the sides of my switch but are seen on some examples on the internet. Note: The Sony part number is stamped in this example. I don’t believe it’s a custom part though. We’ll see when the ones I’ve ordered come in and I can compare. That's what I saw when I opened up the E10 yesterday. I also removed the front panel. I had two mishaps. One was that the front panel, once detached, was reluctant to go back into its original position; that is, wasn't flush. A little fiddling with it took care of the brief problem. There was a bit of a front panel issue—right around the loading slot—when I bought the deck, but the seller fixed it on the spot. The second issue was...well, after I put the lid back on, 4 screws remained. I removed the lid again, but could see no obvious places for the screws. Same for the exterior. However, save the power button, the deck's functionality is all good. In fact, the power button is now slightly better-positioned than it was, although it still doesn't work. It feels like it does have a spring, though. My evaluation of all this is that the minidisc gods want me to leave well-enough alone, and just continue to use the external switch. (I do have a friend who could easily make the repair, but that would mean either a 3.5 hour drive or shipping.) Much thanks for all your advice and willingness to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 There are the following screws in assembly order (looking from front where required): 2 domed screws that hold the switch PCB to the front panel metalwork 1 domed screw (left) and 1 countersunk screw (right) that holds the front PCB into the front plastic 4 domed screws (2 each side) that hold the front panel assembly into the case lower metalwork 4 countersunk screws that from the underside hold the front panel to the lower case the lid screws, 2 each side plus 2 (I think) across the front and 1 in the rear This was from memory so I hope I got them all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 21 hours ago, kgallen said: There are the following screws in assembly order (looking from front where required): 2 domed screws that hold the switch PCB to the front panel metalwork .... This was from memory so I hope I got them all! Thanks. I will check. Can't have extra screws loose! 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfbp Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 I've had a screw loose for as long as I can remember. And so do most of my friends. 9 hours ago, bluecrab said: Thanks. I will check. Can't have extra screws loose! 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 5 minutes ago, sfbp said: I've had a screw loose for as long as I can remember. And so do most of my friends. Hey, watcha sayin’ ????? 😡🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearBoy Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 Haha 😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 18, 2023 Report Share Posted April 18, 2023 Hi @bluecrab The switches have arrived and they look perfect. Do you want me to send you one (FOC)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2023 14 hours ago, kgallen said: Hey, watcha sayin’ ????? 😡🤣 I thought that having the figurative screw loose was all but required for being here, but my E10 doesn't see the humor. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 On 4/18/2023 at 3:34 PM, kgallen said: Hi @bluecrab The switches have arrived and they look perfect. Do you want me to send you one (FOC)? It looks SO simple and easy in the photos, making me feel like I might not botch it. (My repair history with MD decks is fraught.) Let me consider it just a bit. Many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgallen Posted April 20, 2023 Report Share Posted April 20, 2023 5 hours ago, bluecrab said: It looks SO simple and easy in the photos, making me feel like I might not botch it. (My repair history with MD decks is fraught.) Let me consider it just a bit. Many thanks! You will need a decent iron (25W or more) and some decent solder wick as there is a lot of old solder to remove which will suck away heat from the iron. When you solder the new switch make sure to get the joint hot to avoid a dry joint and ensure to get the switch square as the holes in the PCB will be big to take the solder tag contacts on the switch. It’s easy enough but as with anything you need the right kit and technique! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluecrab Posted April 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2023 21 hours ago, kgallen said: You will need a decent iron (25W or more) and some decent solder wick as there is a lot of old solder to remove which will suck away heat from the iron. When you solder the new switch make sure to get the joint hot to avoid a dry joint and ensure to get the switch square as the holes in the PCB will be big to take the solder tag contacts on the switch. It’s easy enough but as with anything you need the right kit and technique! Ah. Sad to say, that pretty much eliminates a DIY effort by me, as I am not a solderer. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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