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sfbp

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Everything posted by sfbp

  1. Would it be totally unreasonable to suggest buying a second unit? Then you can share the cradle between two units. I have no idea how much you paid, but there were N10's in Ebay UK changing hands for between 30 and 40 pounds. About 8 of them in the last 2 weeks, in fact. I would think that you must have been very unlucky, as I would wager all the ones listed there had a cradle included. Another idea also involves looking for an N910, but that one uses NiMH batteries (which are bit easier to find). Good news, the N910 takes a standard 3V supply instead of the less common 6V (which is presumably needed to charge the LiIon battery). Maybe some N10 owner can tell us if THIS CABLE does the job you want. Sorry I don't know the answer to that. This is the second one of your queries I have answered... you maybe didn't notice my reply to the other one about the Denon DMD-1600AL.
  2. If you PLAY BACK a fully recorded disk with the unit, do you hear some thumping/clicking/banging noises when you get to the end tracks? My guess is the head is not travelling freely at the extreme of its travel, if so. I have seen this when there was some sticky stuff on the part (90degrees to the head) that the arm is resting on.
  3. It seems clear that the menus are dependent on the unit, rather than the remote itself. And in the Japan-only units (like the EH70) there are some menus that never change from Japanese. I'd love to know what it says the first time I press Display (picture at top of thread). Wow you've got a lot of stuff. Changing the subject, I see you have some nice car setups, including an MD changer. Have you tried the Atrac3+ CD units yet? Effectively HiMD in your car, with the proviso you must record an Atrac CD (which is good because noone will bother to steal it and you don't have to change very often!) first.
  4. Someone is selling a Denon-1600AL in the UK, it has a manual. Maybe you can contact him.
  5. Can you label or number them before you do the import? I avoid clicking those column heads because there seems to be no way to "unclick" i.e. to leave "unsorted". Can someone help us out here?
  6. I've never heard MD noise with a stealth recording of any kind. Presumably this is because the unit is in my pocket. Even with the ECM-DS70P directly attached, the whirring gets lost and deadened by the fabric, while the microphone sticks out over the (shirt) pocket. You'd be surprised. And with a microphone extension, or SoundPro BMC3 on those quite long leads, you'll never have a problem. Worst case, you can put a hat or scarf over the RH1 to muffle it.
  7. Well if you look closer, you see it says SP/DIF I/O at 96kHz. Isn't that what counts? If you have optically connected devices at that bit rate, they will work correctly. The "up to 48Khz" presumably applies to A->D, but you are planning to use the PCM-D10 or some other recording device to do the high resolution stuff. If you aren't, I doubt if any in-the-PC sound card will be good enough anyway; there are probably too many sources of noise, yes? And for playback do you have devices that reproduce the higher rate, that you want to connect to the card? What you want is compatibility, surely.
  8. Doesn't their 7.1 card do that? http://www.terratec.net/en/products/Aureon_7.1_PCI_2252.html I had trouble finding it on their website, so you may have to look in stockists. They have a list of dealers in the different European countries.
  9. Holy cow! I paid that many POUNDS for mine. And thought that it was cheap. I recommend ANYONE here to grab one at that price!!!! FYI the toslink-to-mini looks like this toslink-to-toslink looks like this The adapter cable is optical at both ends, just happens to fit in the specially designed linein/optical sockets which also accept electrical input from a normal stereo 1/8" jack plug.
  10. Dat's (pardon the pun) de one. 5.1 PCI?
  11. It's not so much about the "quality" of the digital in/out but more about the functionality. For example the Terratec has a nice little check box that allows you to ignore SCMS (at least I think that's what it does, I've never had a hassle with MD output into that card). Sonic Stage is quite useful for titling before you upload.
  12. You're right Bob. I was meaning to add that to my post. Of course anything which is :prohibited: eg something downloaded onto MD, won't work with that route, whereas it *will* work with the optical.
  13. Very quickly: - Sony w/opti out, yes. - Terratec PCI, yes, not expensive (Turtle beach, no way I sent the Montego back). Don't have experience of the USB version. However you are going to need USB (and all of the bandwidth) for SonicStage at some point, using a dongle-type optical input may turn out to be annoying in the end. The only problem you have is that Terratec is hard to find here in N.Am. - Toslink is the square plug from back of deck, and into my soundcard. Minitoslink is only for the INPUT to md (or conceivably Apple notebook). If you need mini-to-mini or mini-to-toslink, you can buy the right cable on ebay without too much difficulty. Toslink at both ends can be found locally most likely. - Software you need something that can capture the sound card's digital input. Waverec is free and german-menued, but it works fine. - For editing, I use CoolEdit which was bought by Adobe and became Adobe Audition. There are lots of others. If you have an editor that works for you, that's fine. Good luck, and welcome to MDCF!
  14. One of my favourites, that. Lots of priceless moments, in particular the scene where the star pretends to have a fight with an unknown intruder behind a door with the whole world watching (and listening). John Malkovich as Pascal, the frenchman who wants to take over the House of Windsor and turn the UK into a prison island. So many funny touches, like when the Queen is threatened, and no giving in until her corgis are going to be shot; and a hilarious scene in a Japanese Sushi restaurant where there is a complete mistranslation of something Johnny says in Japanese. Oh yes, and his so-earnest assistant Bough (rhymes with "Toff" not with "Cow") who always carries the can. Highly recommended.
  15. Try responding to jernikfra in his classified ad You won't beat that price especially if you are also in Canada. But I never had problems with MDC (pauseplaystop.com, same thing) in Montreal, maybe you have your browser set too restrictively (eg no JavaScript). You can even fax or call them, they are perfectly reliable, and good stock. Stephen
  16. Just snapped up 48 of the finest, thank you very much Jeremy. Now I have enough media until Armageddon. I jumped in my car and was there in 15 minutes before any could be promised to anyone else. A pleasure to do business.
  17. Generally irony doesn't work well online. Sorry.
  18. I just commented in another thread that it seems likely the major reason I had to repair an N505's ribbon cable was that there was guck on the shelf that supports the overwrite arm, as it travels back and forwards (left to right). Looking at it from POV of position and composition (sorry I didn't think to take photos) suggests to my inexperienced eye that the only way something like that could have got there was from a sticky label curling off the MD and then sticking to something else.
  19. Why do I think this post isn't real? Anyway it turns out I did this hack yesterday. I actually ignored the exhortation to use headphone wire so I may be doing it again. But it works quite fine (at the moment). Turns out the biggest problem was some guck where the overwrite head travels. this may even be what caused the ribbon cable to break in the first place. I've a pretty good idea the guck was from a sticky label.
  20. If Bobt is right, you can fix the ribbon cable to the overwrite head. I just did such surgery and it is very painful (to the surgeon!) but it works. If he's not right, have you considered turning off the Synch record setting? It's also possible that the recording is "jumping inputs" if you read about the priority of inputs (Page 32, top of right hand column). Another thing to try is to see if the same happens when you record with the recorder plugged into its charger (not the charge stand, use the yellow tip from the power source direct into the 707). Many record functions require more power than a rechargeable battery supplies, so if this always works, you can try using a real alkaline battery for those critical field recordings. Disclaimer: I have not owned a 707, so I cannot speak directly. However I have seen many of the above behaviours at different times. On the whole MD's are pretty reliable. Welcome to MDCF!
  21. Auto-off on the RH1 probably helps a fair bit, though I never leave mine plugged in as some do. I'll never know with the RH10, sigh, missed my only chance when someone offered me one for $100 (Can, was only $70 US at the time) and I chickened out.
  22. Yeah. output is nominally 230 but the power in this old house is more like 117, so not too surprising it's below spec. My bigger worry is 60Hz vs 50Hz though the spec explicitly mentions both. I assume the "special for UK" designation on many units has something to do with particular mains noise? I recall hum was always bad when I recorded stuff way back when.
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