sfbp

Check your temporary file location is writeable. Most likely modern windows install is protecting all directories. SS has to convert files one by one after you press the transfer button. MP3 is not a good starting place for you. Don't try to run before you can walk. Get some OMA files you want to transfer and see if they can be sent to the device. If not, I would suspect strongly you didn't put the 64-bit NetMD driver in place. BTW, it's an MZ-N520, that N is the key to it being even hookable to the PC.

I fixed the links. Is this MDGadgetry?

Thanks for correcting me, guys. I haven't tried most of this, so kudos to you for chasing it down. I would say that the N910 is built like a tank, all metal, whereas the DN430 is mostly plastic (at least the casing). So the former is a much higher-end item as was reflected in the original price (it's the only one that ever showed up at my local London Drugs and I thought it was WAY overpriced). As far as 2x vs 4x, I do recall something about how the decks manage copying (eg the MDS-W1) at high speed. They use a higher frequency, doubling the data rate. So if you're trying to do this higher data rate, then probably the cheaper versions of an MD portable had some expensive components compromised (by selection of cheaper ones?). I don't know, but it seems reasonable given that Sony never expected anyone to upload anything from either of these devices. I also recall that there was a problem with NetMD and *writing*. I learned very quickly to record disks from the USB only when there was external 3V power supply. It's supposed to work, but particularly with NetMD all units (including the MZ-N910) used a lot more power, at least transiently when downloading music from the PC to an MD. Great consternation when I got my 6-MD car changer, and was seriously concerned when driving along and a song would literally freeze. This was how i found out the hard way about the NetMD power problem. Disks recorded in real time on a deck never ever had this playback problem. I guess there are limits to our digital mindscape after all.

but.... the insertion of an old MD does NOT force it permanently into that mode. And I bet that's what is happening, it thinks u want to burn a HiMD format. Do you have an RH10 or some other 1st or second generation HiMD unit to try this with? Failing that you will have to figure out the jog lever presses (assuming that does NOT show up on the remote screen).

What disc mode is the RH1 in?

I looked at the video for replacing the OLED out of interest (mine still works mostly, some problems with jog lever but OLEDs are fine). As long as you can do it without breaking anything (and the guy had clearly bust one of the plastic lugs for the front panel, previously - learning how to do it?) then you get access to the guts of that front panel as well as a chance to re-seat the 2 display ribbon cables. I'm thinking about copying that activity and trying to see if there's anything obviously wrong in there. Has anyone else tried anything like that? My RH1 is perfectly fine for uploads, which is the only reason I ever use it.

My only comment is: this is a servo mechanism. As such it will display strange behaviours when it stops working (ie cannot self-correct by repositioning and maximising the signal for a track). Right, Kevin?

I'm sure it's a function of how many bots are attacking us. Speaking for myself, I know there were huge runs about 1 month ago (around 25/2) but that might be different for someone else such as our hoster which is somewhere in the USA.

The standard RM-MC38EL should work. Maybe if you dream about it you can wake up with an idea of what to do. I'm stumped. However the middle bit looks like the NH900's.

Limp means it's not electrical, i think. Take a look at page 50 of the NH900 service manual. The others will surely all be similar.

I can't offer help on this model, but i recall something similar with an NH700. You'll have to take it apart. Inside the lid the switch board is probably secured with a couple of screws. We're hampered here by not having an exploded diagram from the service manual, but you might benefit from the fact that these designs kindof evolved... yours being a later one than said NH700. Not much use but don't panic yet. Kind regards Stephen

The other thing that changed recently is the effectiveness of Chromecast (and I am sure the many clones). I am away from home this week, and for the first time I am able to blast my videos from home (not copied, but via the internet) directly on to the TV there. So if you have a phone that will get the content you need, maybe this is enough. Once again, this is not a property of the TV, but the fact that you can reliably plug in a device which catches your casts from portable device(s).

Very kind of you but I think 6 years later this guy is probably long gone. He only ever came to the site in 2019.

Sure. But if you are having trouble with software that browses the internet on that particular date it seems not unreasonable to ascribe to a common cause. I'm sure there's nothing wrong with your hardware. I have Sony TVs from the last 20 years and both sport access to things "out there" (eg music sites that are long gone) and no longer do any of those extra things.

There's a kerfuffle of sorts relating to Firefox's root certificate expiring on 14th March. https://www.theregister.com/2025/03/13/mozilla_certificate_update/ Was your problem beginning exactly then? It's not clear to me that Sony ever used anything from Mozilla - but what do I know? Seems a bit of a coincidence..... If it were me, I would stop relying on anything baked into your TV (and updates thereto) and get a real computer (for example a Raspberry Pi if you cannot stand working with Windoze) to drive the TV screen