sfbp

When I say "the old interlock problem" (I know Kevin is lurking about my obscure comments), I have (like most of us?) seen the difficulty which it's quite easy to get a portable into, if it gets stuck or loses power when the OWH is engaged ( and therefore we are/were recording something ). I have, perhaps incorrectly, assumed that this situation with the OWH bent is a comparable one, kind of like someone who gets arrested, arms-behind-the-back, getting stuck so because the arresting officer and the arrestee managed to have a struggle where the shoulder (of the latter) got dislocated. In that case, the (very painful) cure is for someone, chiropractor-like, to jerk the shoulder back into its socket. (as an aside) I always thought it funny that ordinary doctors seem to know how to do this manoeuvre even though the majority of the medical profession doesn't believe in proper "osteopathy" and calls it "bone crunching" in an effort to dissuade the public from using/receiving chiropractic/osteopathic services or manipulations. So yes, there is a risk that getting everything back to normal will cause something to break. The alternative is stripping down and reassembling everything, which most of us cannot begin to do. Jonathan's description of how to twirk the poor MD drive's shoulder seems an apt metaphor - you have to bend it well beyond its normal position expectation to break the interlock holding it in an impossible position.

Ahhhhhh the old interlock problem. Do not panic. This is exactly how most of these machines end up in the bin. Mine included - my first deck, and the only one that I ever had to get rid of. Insights please NGY!?

well done indeed

Great stuff! The Divide function (when done by buttons) is always twothree-phase. So either there's a parameter there or you have to do some other command first. (edit) Ok i get it, you tried the divide and THEN Div-Adj. 100 sounds like a quite a lot maybe too much.

My experience with portables is that the power adjustment can fail. So you have a good supply but it judges itself to be inadequate. At least twice I have revived a portable by doing the very first few electrical adjustments, that set the power voltages for the operation of the machine. The other ones can be followed but i do not initially recommend doing the "911" CLEAR ALL action as you will then have many other things to worry about. For the 510, I believe it starts on page 25. None of these power supply adjustments should affect the important laser settings. You SHOULD set the temperature value to correspond to the room you are working in. Good luck! PS if it's really gone sideways at this point you will need to do a full servo alignment (automated). Nothing to be scared of but you will need a pre-recorded disk (CD) as well as a blank, new regular disk (don't even think about using one that's been near a HiMD portable!).

Hooray!

Usually you can find one somewhere..... eg ebay Try "minidisc album" and select "buy it now" and sort by price. I found some for under 8 pounds.

Now I understand, you are saying you need a CD to get going on adjustment. Sorry about that.

If prerecorded (CD) mode works, most likely you have to do something check out the adjustment of the laser through the service procedures.

So the eject is happening mostly because of the disk read errors. That makes perfect sense. Gyula does that mean the laser is dying?

You will have to check the internet actual settings. This is not about Vaio per se, and you would be better off in a PC/Win forum. However, pull a command prompt, type "ipconfig /all" and tell us what you get. IF you really think it's Chrome, try IE instead to download something. But first you have have to establish connectivity.

WTG

The one that's in our downloads section. This stuff works, provided you have the right driver. I have no clue why slow but SS does have some strange code so I would turn off DEP protection as well as all realtime Windows Defender functionality. Honest!

The simplest method is undoubtedly "don't use Beatjam". We don't know much about it here. However, you don't even need an xp VM if you use SonicStage. You'll need our version, and (probably) the 64-bit driver for NetMD. Kind regards

Here's one for you folks en Angleterre, looks like the same ol same ol and the guy doesn't know about SIF: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-MDS-E58-Minidisc-Player-Recorder-Faulty/184694710868

Just did the rebuild as per Jimma original and worked perfectly

BTW I think it's probably fair to say that at sub 1mW (READ MODE) these things are safe. But of course a completely maladjusted or random failed circuit might be able to churn out more. The time you really need to be careful (with an already-functioning OP laser) is when the power is 10x that, which it is in WRITE MODE. Fair? Also pointing out that you may eventually likely blow the laser if you leave it on for too long in the service mode write mode. Remember in write mode, you are heating things up bigtime - what if that was your eye? Sort of analogous to frying certain parts of you in a microwave, even though microwave ovens are pretty safe. The MD lasers run at 780nm which is just barely into the infrared spectrum. It's the coherence of a laser which makes it so dangerous. The NHS advert currently running on uk tv about stroke F.A.S.T (and calling 999) pictures someone's head catching fire - my immediate thought was "MD Laser".

Nice to see you too, Philippe. Yes, 352 might be ok, but a. it's unusual b. it uses a bit more space c. not sure it makes that much difference I like AAL especially because it's well set up to be transferred to legacy MD (LP2). But plain 256k HiSP is a particularly good choice because now it works with VLC (and ffmpeg) right out of the box, EVEN IF ENCRYPTED (protected).

Nah, I'm the "higgerunt" one here. Guilty as charged.

I have said this many times before - from the POV of the best audio experience, playing the exact bits from 16-bit CD may not be exactly what you want. There are a significant number of people who have observed that ATRAC encoding actually makes the sound "better" however that is defined. Remember that ATRAC is a 24-bit (logarithmic) format, and a real CD in a real CD player is slightly better than the 16 bits nominal (somewhere between 18 and 20 bits). You only get the best performance from an actual CD if you have oversampling. I don't think Sony ever did that with their PCM (honestly, it was IMO a "mere" selling point to use LPCM) on MD.

Hmm - isn't that a normal event? Going to start, moving in a bit, then back to outside........... the failure you then see being from what it found (or in this case failed to find). (don't take any notice of me, it's so long since I had one of these apart I can't even remember if it goes inwards like a CD, or outwards from the centre).

All I'm really saying is that not all 6V power supplies are equal. The official 6v Sony one works. I have tried other ones (allegedly 6V) with less success! I now remember why I commented on the PC3. Its socket is the wrong size for most other 9V adapters! However the right size for 6V. (again I may have that backwards, knowing me)

Good job. As I sort of suspected. So the HD3 and the NH1 are electrically equivalent. Excellent news. You will have your work cut out reviving that battery. It's probably a goner. Jimma's solution works. The other oddity in all this is I am far from convinced that the NH1 really needs a 6V powersupply. It may WELL be it needs more like 9 V. Why? Because I have noticed that the MDS-PC3 seems confused about whether it needs 6V or 9V, AND the NH1 supplied powersupply (6V) seems to be the only one that actually charges it correctly. I think somebody under/over-specified something. I'm certain Kevin and Gyula will know what's going on from my thumbnail sketch. I'm not sure I do.

I have one of those gizmos for my NW-HD3. Unfortunately the "retaining plate" which nicely fits it for the NW-HD3 makes it physically impossible to put that in the MZ-NH1. It looks as if it should go but in fact the connector is upside down and it simply doesn't fit. You could cut that plate off but I think that might compromise the solidity of the connection for the HD3. I'm guessing (BUT CANNOT AFFIRM THIS) perhaps the resultant cut-down BCA-NWHD3 might charge and allow USB access all at once to the MZ-NH1. But there might just a a reason that doesn't work. That's perhaps why the NH1 comes with: a. the data cable and b. the charge stand. You cannot use both at the same time. It's possible that there some electrical reason (on the NH1, only) that they didn't want two types of power hooked up simultaneously. Sadly I'm not prepared to wreck an NH1 and/or the BCA-NWHD3 to find out. Kevin or Gyula can probably puzzle over the schematics to try to figure out whether it makes sense to use that other adapter (after it's been chopped up) on the MZ-NH1. (it's true that they don't charge ***via*** USB, Richard. But they charge via that same connector!)

Depends on the disk inserted. NH900 and all HiMD units will play both HiMD formatted and legacy-formatted (NetMD or MD) disks. You never need a driver for HiMD, you always need a driver for legacy, even in a HiMD unit. If you got the N707 going (I am assuming 64-bit Windows) then the same driver will be needed that you just installed (that you got from our downloads sections).