sfbp

Well that (a wall charger) was my only bust in that area. Bought one and it was an obvious fake, never worked. You know now I think of it, there WAS a local firm offering a legit charger. Maybe that's the best idea - I can confirm that I have had better luck using my R91 to charge things than any other unit so I tended to use it to charge gumsticks, lol. When I last considered that option, I had only 1 machine with that type of battery, so it was never going to be cost effective. But by the time I have chased around in Japan, I might indeed be better off. Update: I just called them, and the guy even threw in 2 gumsticks - I am sure he wanted rid of them. Sorry, Guitarfxr, I think culp is right. My offer to exchange a stand with something on Vancouver Craigslist stands, however, provided it's not too pricey. There's a guy selling a used N505 for $250, sound good???? (He has been posting it for months, started at $350, and when I wrote to him dropped it to $250). Seriously, there's a nice N505 for $60 this week, right in my area. Got it. Turned out to be a GP. One of the sticks had corrosion on it and wouldn't do anything, so cleaned it off. Now they are both charging, and we shall see

My apologies. We can continue via PM. How much does it weigh, this stand???????? Cheers

Moi? Not mine......

Ah... I didn't understand that these are skins for the mini-player only. Thanks.

Wow, mine just arrived, absolutely brand new. It's tiny. Basically the same as a portable but with a speaker and mono microphone built in, and compartment for 2 AA batteries. Standard red stereo microphone socket and white line/optical socket. Type-S of course, with megabass-like settings (ChrisG you would like this unit!). Can run off wall adapter just fine (not supplied) but will not charge the installed batteries. The socket for foot switch (which I don't have) works fine with a standard MD remote (except that the volume is only controlled by the volume knob on the unit, the one on the remote doing nothing at all). The speaker cuts out as soon as you insert the remote or headphones into the socket (clever!). I like having all the buttons. There's even buttons for erase and erase all. It will be especially nice for taking an off-air recording and trackmarking it, since the unit sits on the desk nicely and has a nice big trackmark button. I'm sure it's intended for speech but with an add-on microphone I bet it's just fine for recording purposes just as the other MDLP portables. Oh yes, one funny thing, more than half the weight of the package is comprised of manuals in: English French Spanish Italian German Finnish Portuguese Dutch Swedish

So far all I did was to install and select one from the menu under options. However nothing happens. (Like in "Adventure")

Which one do you recommend?

....... sorry, I am not used to discussing money in public, if you want me to say a number, I will however. $20

You betcha!

You can do *that* upgrade by buying a tuner remote, the RM-MC37LT or RM-MC39LT. No real need to wait for an NHF800, you can just buy a spare NH700

I don't think you can really improve on the NH700. It's a marvellous machine, and I have 4 (well, 3.5) of them. The N1 is NetMD, not HiMD. The RH710 has no microphone input (maybe that doesn't matter - to you) The RH1 is the only realistic upgrade and I still would use the NH700 for most things. Other nice models (none available new) are NH1, RH10, RH910, and NH900. You can also buy a player-only model, they are supposed to be somewhat tougher - but no ability to MAKE the disks you play in it - such as EH1 (v rare and expensive), NH3D (ditto), EH50 and EH70.

Name your price I don't suppose there is any *good* that you would like? since you don't have Paypal. Perhaps there is something easily available here that is hard to come by in Japan, that I can mail to you. Take a look in Vancouver Craigslist? Failing that I am sure we can come to some cash arrangement, as I just came back from the US and have some US dollar bills in my wallet. Thanks very much.

Thank you so much. It looks like I definitely need that stand, sigh, although it does clearly take the Sony std 3V yellow ring-tip connector from the wall adapter.

My first contribution to this long-lived thread is to comment - what a great way to spam us. Maybe it's time to lock the existing thread, and start a new one........?

I am looking for someone here who is an owner of the EH70 to explain to me what the standard setup of the EH70 is. I cannot find a manual, so one option is perhaps some kind individual might scan us all a .pdf file of that. That would solve the problem. Here's the issue: how is the EH70 charged? There is a charge stand supposedly, what does it do? Is there a "normal" 3V input on the EH70? Is there another charge stand that works instead? I understand there's no USB connection at all, so it cannot be charged that way. Someone has an EH70 I want to buy but no charge stand. I'm not clear if the charger being offered separately is just a battery charger or actually charges the battery whilst inserted into the unit. Finally, for you owners out there - is the EH70 a good enough unit that I should grab one anyway and look for the charge stand later = or do without a charge stand altogether? The problem with "doing without" is that EH70 takes gumsticks only.

I think that all that is required is Unilink (Sony's special bus). Check the specs. The control is fine. Mine works completely fine from Chrysler head unit, so I am sure Sony will be better (I don't have title display but I suspect the Sony will). Mine allows me to go forward or back a disk, as well as forward or back a track, as well as FF and REW. Sorry missed answering the other part. The wiring is nothing because it all comes from the unilink cable. The changer is small, and the wire that comes with it is long (15ft or so), so it can go virtually anywhere. The ONLY trick was threading it under the carpet - which I used a coat hanger for.

Right. It's just that playing the .oma files (which are much smaller) stops abruptly if you don't decrypt the files before any crash or re-install.

I don't think they added line-in jacks when MD car decks were still being produced. Trust me, the MD changer is TINY. Take a look at the dimensions on the website here. When mine arrived I couldn't believe how small it was.

Focus sounds like vertical positioning to me. Any true experts? (I'm just guessing)

Having taken apart several (!) NH700s and studied the service manual and that of the NH600, I can confidently say that almost everything mechanically and electronically is the same between 600 (and 600D), 700, 800 and 900. Well... that's probably an overstatement. However grab some of the manuals and you will see all the diagrams and most of the mechanism parts lists refer to the NH900. As far as I can see, and I am more than willing to be corrected by the old hands here, even the 600D has the same basic electronics as the better models, plus or minus a few connectors and a different display. I noticed that the 600 has a battery door that seems less likely to fall open. It also lacks a charging circuit for the battery. I wonder if this might affect longevity - since most of the machines with charging of the battery from 3VDC input get kinda warm when charging. This in turn tends to affect the life of electronic components, right? Or maybe I'm just soapboxing here...... It was my second HiMD unit, too. Despite the RH1's wonderful playback, I think that beast needs to sit quietly on the shelf at home for uploading, or for when I need it to make marvellous microphone recordings. Buying an NH600 would certainly allow you to assign those roles (only) to the MZ-200.

Oh, importing CD's. I don't often do that, and never noticed that menu when I did. So what is your explanation? Many people here seem to swear by SB, so if it uses the lower quality, this is all very interesting. Something else odd, I noticed. LP2 is fine on all NetMD. LP4 (and this is probably why I never used it before) sounds bad on the MZ-N910 (one of the last NetMD models?) but much better on a HiMD player such as the NH700. I did an A-B comparison, same disk, same headphones/remote, and the difference was dramatic.

I highly recommend this version put together by one of our experts, Avrin. Yes, I tried it already. Good luck

Sure, I can edit the registry. Sigh. But 1. your experiment seems to indicate "High" doesn't improve anything 2. I can't find the parameter you refer to, unless it's arrived at by some combination of other choices. Heeelp

A lot depends on your car. Suggest strongly you have a poke around this website

I was in a rented car last week made by Chrysler, relatively new, from the clock probably about 1 year old. It had, all included in the one in-dash unit, a 6-CD changer and a 3.5mm jack for "line in". The biggest problem with the "changer workaround" is you need some clever electronics to fool the bus into switching on the changer audio input. It has to send commands to the unit which then responds. There's no single wire or jumper to enable that input. Looks like the newer head units with the jack solve this problem. I actually really like the MD changer in my own car - it takes almost no space, and was easy to install. So you could buy any Sony CD in-dash unit, and add to it a Minidisc changer. The one you probably want is the MDX-66XLP since it is the only model that reads LP2 and LP4.