NGY

I am looking for these Sony minidisc remote controllers: RM-D22M RM-D21M and RM-D49M. If you have one for sale, please let me know in a PM. I have an extra RM-D15M, that I can offer for trade in, if someone needs it. Until I find them, can somebody owning these help me out please with the IR codes of the buttons. If you don't have the necessary gear, it is enough to boot your MD deck into display/buttons test mode (AMS+REC), and the last step of the diagnostics is the remote test - any buttons pressed will display a code on the display. [UPDATE: model name corrected]

--- SOLD ---

Definitely, no doubt. For some reason, I always get this language page, and I have to click on the upper right corner to get to their global site.

Yes, I agree. Shipments from the Far East can be a pain in the neck, and frequently they are ...

I am not sure, whether or not you like these guys, but they seem to have the cable you are looking for, >> here <<. Price is a different matter though.

Have you seen his post?

Model families before the 510 (inclusive) spun the disc in record pause, with the OWH lowered to the surface of the disc. This could become abrasive after extended periods of time. Successors of the 510 and newer models don't spin the disc in rec pause, but still keep the OWH lowered. It is not abrasive, but the two little flat springs that keep the tip of the OWH in the proper angle may loose their form, if left in such a position for very long time. As for playback, the disc stops spinning when in pause mode, so theoretically there are no parts mechanically stressed. Electronics are still under voltage in pause, and as semiconductors, capacitors age with time, long pauses can shorten their life cycle. Also, the lifetime of the VFD is limited, devices left just ON for long times, would fade their VFD much faster. I am not sure if this is what you asked. On another note: my practice is to shut off the decks for any time I don't use them. Even the one I use on a daily basis is plugged into the switched AC outlet of my receiver, so it gets no power when the receiver is off - less heat produced by the deck's transformer (heat is harmful to the insulation of the coils, as well as the filter caps), also less electricity wasted.

No, none of them :-) . I only wish I was.

Thank you.

Yes, and it works. More details >> here <<.

We had a brief discussion about coaxial SPDIF switches >> here <<. My experimental board got finally put together, and I have been testing it since a few days, with my 930, 940 and JA20 hooked up. I have attached the project files [projectfiles.zip] for those who want to build their own. The schematic is very simple, and can easily be developed further, like when someone needs more inputs, or wants to change channels with push buttons or IR remote instead, etc. Components cost about 12 Euro, plus the "soapbox", that is just a cheap small project box, to protect the board. I did not feel making a fancy techno looking chassis, even the rotating knob is from a salvaged 510S. The device has three SPDIF inputs and one SPDIF output (that is galvanically isolated, to avoid ground loops). It works from a 5...6V DC adapter. One LED is lit when the box is powered up, three others are lit respectively to the actually selected input channel, also matched by the position of the rotary switch (*). I chose a 4 throw switch, and used the leftmost position for muting the output (only the power on led is lit) - can be handy when swapping cables, for example. (*) One comment on the board: depending on the actual rotary switch model, switching order can be different. I had to tinker the board after it turned out, that the switch I bought worked the opposite way. In practice it meant I had to swap the connections of LED1/LED3 to pin C2/C4, also, ground pin B4 instead of B2.

Hello Philippe, in PM.

Mint condition, less than 200 total running hours, bright display, scratch free front. Original box, remote, manual. Free shipping within Europe, fully tracked and insured. PM me for details. Up for a few days only.

This 640 is still available. Reasonable shipping costs within Europe, fully tracked and insured.

Indeed. I have replaced many of those belts, in several models like the 640, 940, 470, 480, S50, PC3, etc. For me the best method is to lift the drive out of the unit (remove four screws, and the cables if you want to), and I access the belt from the front of the drive with the help of a pair of tweezers, and a paperclip bent as a hook. No need to disassemble the drive, and no sensitive parts are close to damage - if you know what you are doing. Most important is to protect the drive and the unit from ESD - my workbench has an antistatic ESD mat, plus I wear gloves, but as a minimum, one has to discharge the body's antistatic charge on a grounded metal piece, before opening the device for repair. Also, when it comes to lift the drive out of the deck, one hand should keep touching the metal chassis, before and until the drive is out.

Stephen summarized it very well, how to check the PSU board itself alone. My thoughts (~blind assumptions): - I would expect the PSU being fully OK without any boards/devices attached to it - see below why. - F905 is on the primary side of the main transformer. It would blow when 1) there is a transient from the mains voltage, or 2) the primary windings of the mains transformer is burned into a short circuit (not very probable, for the thermal fuse buried into the primary windings), or 3) one of the secondary windings is burned into a short circuit (not very probable either), or 4) there is an overload/overcurrent appearing on the secondary side. - the main transformer has two separate secondary windings. One is protected by two other fuses, F903 and F904. In case 4) above, I would expect one or both of those blow before the mains fuse would blow. This would conclude that all parts supplied from this voltage (+/- 14V and 8V) should be OK (from the power supply question's point of view). - the other winding is not protected by any fuses interestingly. If we disregard cases 1), 2) and 3) above, then I would suspect this part of the circuit having trouble. For one, as Stephen mentioned, the large cap(s). Next one: following the schematics, it shows that the power amplifier part is running on this voltage (+/- 22V). If one of the IC-s (IC101/IC201) is blown (i.e., their output transistors burnt thru, for a faulty speaker/cable, overdrive, or else - I have already seen similar cases), it can shortcut the power rail, and without any fuses on the secondary side, the primary side fuse should blow. You may want to begin with the instructions of Stephen. (It may also help measuring the secondary voltages, to see everything is in order.) Once the PSU board is cleared, check the resistance between points 9-10 and 10-11 of the CNP307 connector on the main board.

Do I understand it correctly: when plugged into mains, the display works (can play demo), also, the unit responds to the power button (switches the relay on). But then the unit does not come up into normal mode. If this is the case, I am not sure it is just a fuse problem. The "power on" signal is handled by the main IC, and that must have valid power rails to be able to sense the power button and to command the relay switching circuitry. Same for the display, the LCD controller must have proper power lines, to show anything on the display. The two fuses protect the main transformer (plus there is a third one buried into the windings), and in case any of them was blown, neither the display nor the power button would work. But my conclusion can be wrong, if the standby system is on a separate power circuit. I suspect one of the internal devices (CD or MD) stopped responding to the main IC, that disables the whole system. Troubleshooting and repair is still possible, but it is very hard via the internet, it is better hands-on, with necessary test gear.

What frequencies do you need to watch? If it is in the 20kHz range, you may want to use your PC sound card as an oscilloscope. A few passive components and a free software from a smart German guy, Christian Zeitnitz.

I believe >> this << is the topic you were referring to. And also discussed >> here <<, down in the thread. You may want to look for those funny looking "orthodontic rubber bands", but please note, those can also age over the years, so it mignt not make much sense to "stock" a lot of them at home.

Not my call, just my thoughts. 5 MB vs. 30 on an OS with most likely min. 1GB system RAM anyhow will not make a big difference. MD vs. mp3 - we can debate the sound quality, but most probably ATRAC is better. At least many people can hear the difference. Probably more than those who can hear the difference between a CD and its MD copy.

Andreas und Octave, PhilippeC fragte Ihnen, wenn Sie einen interessanten Beitrag oder Thema auf www.minidiscforum.de finden, kopieren Sie bitte den Link hier, so wir können es auch lesen (mit Hilfe von Google Übersetzer natürlich). Danke und MfG

I am not sure whether you meant this: you have a recordable disk with some recorded material already on it, and you want to make new track marks here and there in the recorded audio. If you did, then you may want to use the "Divide" function from the "Edit" menu ("EDIT" button), on either the unit or the remote. More details >> here << (page 24).

If both drives show the same symptom, then something common happened to them: - as punkrockaddict pointed it out above: ribbon cables plugged in the wrong way or improperly seated (most probable reason) - reassembling the drives was not proper (i.e., loading mechanism or laser head in wrong position or stuck, or else), and when the drive sends the error message to the main chip, that will not allow the unit to wake up from standby - in worst case (and hopefully not), both units got an ESD shock. These are very sensitive circuitries inside, and some safety measures must be taken before attempting any repair, or touching anything inside. Bringing up the deck in service mode as Stephen suggested can check whether or not the device is alive. If service menu does not come up, you may want to try at least the display test (I had few units, that "pretented" to be completely dead, but properly performed the display test), plugging the unit in while pressing AMS knob and REC button simultaneously. If the display test comes up, you can also test all buttons on the front panel, i.e., whether or not the STANDBY (power on) button responds.

Yeah, I had the same question in mind. It's the normal way, that seller says a price first, isn't it?

If the batteries are in sockets, then certainly there is no need for the tabs. I have not yet seen the inside of this particular model, and assumed the batteries are soldered to the main board (like the back up cells in many different devices). If you have some spare minutes, I would love to see a couple of good photos of the board.