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The internal NiCd batteries can be replaced with NiMH ones. The charging scheme is very similar of the two, the device would work with the replacements properly. Once you are about to replace them, make sure you buy the new NiMH AA cells with connecting leads welded onto them (example), as these batteries don't like soldering. Or you can simply use a two cell battery holder, if there is enough room. As for the voltages: IEC R6 size (AA) NiCd or NiMH cells are 1.2V nominal, constrained by the chemistry. When fully charged, they show a ~1.5V voltage, so the two in series can reach the 3V noted in the SM. These cells cannot be replaced with lithium batteries, even with matching size/form (i.e., "14500") without changing the related circuitries, for the lithium cells being 3.7V nominal. (NiCd cells are also still available - search)

Your old NiCd AA cells (1.2V nominal) are probably dead, after having spent such a long time in storage. This unit can take regular - AA size - alkaline batteries (1.5V nominal). If you have other gadgets that run on NiMh AA batteries (1.2V nominal), you can also try two of them.

The S50 is nearly identical to the PC3 (and the 640) in terms of features, in "mini" (or some people say "midi") form factor. The optical output is missing unfortunately (no coax SPDIF either), and no pitch control, if I recall it properly. But it has SF-Edit and Fader, that can be very handy when making your own compilations. I am not using SonicStage, therefore cannot compare the two. But my experience with M-Crew is positive - simple stuff for simple tasks, and you can even title discs and tracks during actual recording. Important though, as Stephen pointed out above, that XP is the last OS it can run on properly (my "factotum" PC still runs XP, and will do so until it dies, I think).

A non-japanese S500 is rare like hen's teeth, I am afraid. The S50 can be a good alternative, with PC-Link and Type-R. Or in full size: 470, 770, 480, 780, 980QS. Or in very expensive: JA333ES ;-)

Was the laser having trouble during playback or when reading the TOC? If first, I would suspect it is more on the laser's account, then on the discs'. If latter, it was probably a bad TOC. I got one discs recently been forgotten in a recorder I bought for parts, and it would not play in some of my decks, popping out with disc error. After a couple of attempts I tried pushing "All erase" while the laser was struggling with the disc. It did erase the disc, and I got a fresh TOC. This disc keeps playing problem free since then. I only have a few hundrend discs, and do not play them on a daily basis, thus my limited experience with bad discs (only the one above) is probably not representative, but my view is that md as a media is very durable. Apart from mechanical damages or dirt, it should be normally error free. Bad production media can exist though, I admit.

I have a European version 940, and it is not recognized by the PCLK set via the front panel PS2 connection.

Both the PCLK and the USB converter are only media for transmitting the - same - digital audio data. No conversion is made on the line. In your case, analogue to digital is done on your PC, before the actual optical transmission, while the ATRAC conversion is done on the md device, after the transmission. The PCLK dongle is "only" a USB-to-optical converter - from this perspective, as other control functions are not used. (There exists the PCLK-MN5 from Sony, that is a limited version of the MN10, without all those control possibilites, having only the optical out interface.) Any difference in audio quality between optical and coaxial transmission (from the same source, and with the same receiving device) can only come from the things we discussed above.

The data transmitted on the TOSLINK and the coaxial SPDIF are identical in terms of ones and zeros, the only difference is the optical (i.e., light on/off) vs. electrical (i.e., low/high voltage level) way of transmission. Both outputs are driven by the same logic circuitry internally. Optical is naturally not sensitive to electromagnetic noises, nor can any ground loops develop when connecting devices together. With good quality coaxial cables, plugs, jacks and proper isolation at the SPDIF output of the devices coaxial can transfer the digital data in the same quality as the fibre (distances may play a role though). On the other hand, cheap quality optical cables, dirty/dusty TOSLINK receivers/transmitters can result errors in the data transfer. I would say if you already have the PCLK kit, buying a USB/SPDIF converter probably will not bring any increase in quality compared to the optical line (plus you would lose some functionality of the Sony kit).

Thanks for taking the trouble. In the lights of this, my version looks a bit overcomplicated :-) . I will digitalize the schematics and post it here in an enjoyable format, for those with some electronics vein who want to build their own. But prior to that I want to do the test ride, to prove the concept.

I would love to see, what's inside. No intention to disappoint you, but if it is a bidirectional device that works without power, then I suspect it is just a mechanical switch. Maybe a few resistors to keep the box at 75 Ohm, and a couple of capacitors for basic noise filtering, probably a high-pass filter, if the designer paid attention to such details. Would you mind risking your warranty by removing the sticker, to peep inside? I mean, if it is not a big trouble (de/recabling again). My own circuitry schematic for a 3-to-1 selector is just waiting for some spare time to make the PCB and solder a prototype. Would be interesting to see others' s solutions.

I am afraid, there is not any. I mean, anything a regular user could do easily. IR remotes use certain codes for different makes and devices, for the reason the different remotes would not interfere with other machines. Unfortunately, Sony created only one set of codes for minidisc desks (it is quite common at many brands, that a complete line of similar devices use the same set of IR codes), and there is no option to select between decks. Pity though, as Sony made several other devices, video recorders for example, where they implemented a switch on the remote, to select beetween three units (and matching selection can be set on the units). Technically it is doable to apply some sort of modulation on the remote's IR signal, and the same demodulation on the deck's IR receiver, also, it is possible to use a generic remote programmed to an altered set of codes, and to modify the unit's internal logics to be able read that set, but both would be sort of using a sledgehammer to crack a nut.

I am sorry for that. How quick would you need such a switch? As I mentioned in another topic, I am in the progress of making a selector switch - originally intended for optical only (and made from recycled Sony md deck parts), but no big deal to add coax too. When I am done, and if it is something I can replicate from ~15 bucks worth of parts, I can build a second one.

I know it may sound weird, but you can cascade two of these into a third one, and you can control four inputs. But that would probably worsen your cable problems.

That's right, I overlooked that part. (SPDIF optical to coax conversion is very, very simple though, and requires a couple of passive components only - I mean, if you do it before the TOSLINK transmitter. In other words, a unit with optical out can be modded for having a coax output. Same circuitry exists in many Sony decks.)

There are many of them, though mostly combined with optical TOSLINK, like this one for example. It is not very difficult to build one either. If you want something that is not passing the few MHz digital signal through the (somewhat unreliable) mechanical contact of a switch, you can use a couple of simple, standard CMOS IC-s.

Not the SPDIF digital signal, that can be stereo or even multichannel on one single line. For coaxial and RCA: "Coaxial" is a generic term, describing cables with circular cross section, a core wire in the center, a shielding net around, and an electrical isolation between. "RCA" is a connector (for coaxial wire), not only for analogue audio, but also for for other signals, like SPDIF, composit video, component video, or even for loudspeakers' outputs, etc. There are other type of coaxial connectors too, like "BNC" for example.

If I see correctly, this unit is switching analogue stereo audio signals on RCA connectors. While the physical connector is the same (except for "colour code") as the one used for SPDIF, there is a significant difference in bandwidth: the digital signal is in the MHz range, while the audio is in the 20+ kHz range. Having said that, if the inside is just a pure selector switch without any sophisticated electronics, it might still work, though at those high frequencies proper noise filtering is another issue.

Hi, when you search on ebay, it might give a better picture when you go to advanced search, and tick "sold listings". This will show the units actually sold in recent few months. Sometimes it includes unsold auctions too, so you may want to check those listings for having any bids. Recent search for MZ-RH10 shows a wide range of selling prices, i.e., 17.50€, 22.50€ on one end, 132€, 104£, $250 on the other end, and 70€ in between. Admitting the first two were probably pure luck, it seems Stephen's estimate is a good one to begin with.

Did not want to open a new thread for my question that relates to this topic (very) loosely: has minidisc begun losing all interest recently? I have been watching ebay (.de and .co.uk) since Januar this year, seeking for selected top models, and it seems to me that md deck prices dropped dramatically since then. Even the higher end devices, like the 9xxQS models can now be purchased at fairly low prices, compared to those sold about half year ago. As we speak, there are many of 930/940 simultaneously on ebay, that was not the case few months ago, and you can get them for 50...80 pounds. Spotless 930-s sold in Germany for ~100 Euro, cosmetically beautiful 980 with easily fixable trouble for 60 pounds in the UK, and so on. (Lower end models - 330, 520, 530, 480 - are so cheap, sometimes you can get them for the 1 euro initial bid, or a few more. I bought a couple of decks for the sole purpose of having spare parts for the future. But I still wonder, for how long will we see minidisc devices being sold?) Is it really the "agony", or is this just a temporary"silence" in interest, that has to do with after-holidays-back-to-school season?

It is indeed a valid point. The resolution and sample rate of a given digital audio signal can certainly have influence on selecting the appropriate transferring method and hardware. TOSLINK receivers/transmitters are characterised by transmission rate (optical wavelength is also important), i.e., what is the maximum number of bits they can squeeze through the fiber in a second. There are different modules used in audio devices with various transmission rates mostly in the range of 4...16 Mbps, but I have seen 100...125 Mbps modules intended for other purposes, like industrial data transmission for example. Now, transferring a true 24/192 signal would probably be not possible with these older modules (taken from period Sony CD/MD gear) being max. 4 Mbps (my guess, but will check their datasheets). There is another limitation as well, namely the input module and circuitry of my receiver. Nevertheless, for switching/splitting the optical signals of my existing devices the same optical modules that are being used in them must be fully appropriate.

Hi Dave, I am afraid, you won't find such a software hack. This kind of functionality is burnt into the main chip of the unit, and while there supposed to be a way to reload the firmware of the deck, I have not seen any modified versions yet (well, this does not mean too much anyway), nor any posts here or on other forums, that would discuss the how-to. Sony is known for keeping such proprietary firmware totally confidential, and hackers would only work on something that enjoys wide interest (i.e., when back in old DVD times, they hacked drives' firmware for region code, etc.). You may try to replace the main IC on the main board of the 440 with the one from a 640. I mean, if performing such a delicate rework is worth it for the end result.

MDS-JE520 Yesterday night I played with a faulty deck, and here is what I found. I bought this MDS-JE520 on ebay for parts originally, it was fairly cheap, so I did not mind stripping it down. But as usual, first I wanted to understand, what is the cause for the fault. The deck would not accept any discs, after loading one, it would try to read it, but then it would eject with C13. I had already some idea, that there can be multiple reasons for a deck rejecting a disc, however, here came another one I would have never thought of. Before jumping on it, here is a little puzzle: can you spot any differences? Left one is the drive of the 520 exhibiting a C13 error, right one is another 520, that works OK. . Yes, one part is missing, a spring! Here is the "difference": I had no clue, where actually the spring was, because it was not inside the deck when I opened it. More than that, how could that spring jump off? It takes an effort and a tool to take it out of its place. OK, but then what's the problem? It looks that the drive loads the disc halfway only, and cannot lower it into its nest, because this spring is responsible for holding the loading tray in the required position. Once the disc is not fully loaded, it would certainly not spin, and the laser would not read anything - disc error, eject. On the left the disc is stuck halfway, on the right it is properly loaded (well, I did it manually, for the sake of the photo): . For a quick test I lent the same spring from the other 520, and presto, the C13 error disappeared! Now, how can I destroy this unit for parts, when it is in full working order :-) ?

MDS-S40 (apropos of the similar case of an MDS-JA22ES) This is just a link to a C13 story in another topic - everything is detailed there, so I would not duplicate everything here. Essence in a couple of words: a broken part in the OP positioning mechanism caused the error.

That's fully right. I am already collecting broken Sony MD main boards for their TOSLINK receivers/transmitters (and other parts) on purpose. Once I have enough, I will build a switch that can connect 2-3 devices to a single input, as well as split a single output. I am aware these kind of devices can be bought, but then it will be fun to recycle parts from dead Sony MD decks into some new functionality :-).

On the STR-1090 there are multiple connectors, except for an optical or coaxial digital input, one would normally use to connect an MD player (that does have TOLINK/SPDIF output) to, for best possible sound, and least level of noise, or other disturbances. Still you can use a regular stereo RCA cable (or a 3.5 mm stereo jack to RCA cable, if it is an md walkman) to connect your md device to any of the analogue audio inputs (but Phono) of the receiver, i.e., DAT, TAPE 1/2, also to VIDEO 1/2 (and even CD too, in case). These connections are standardised in terms of acceptable signal levels, just as the analogue outputs of the md players. This a convenience feature on the receiver, that the different channels have names of the possible - most frequently used - devices, but your md player will sound equally good as if it was connected to an analog inlet labelled "minidisc". In other words, all these analogue inputs are interchangeable, you just need to take a note, wich device is on which connector. (My receiver does have two digital inputs, but as I have multiple devices with digital output (CD, SACD, DVD, 2x MDs), some of them can be connected to analogue VIDEO or TAPE only.)