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Perus

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About Perus

  • Birthday March 14

Previous Fields

  • PlayStation Network ID
    Perusen
  • Sony Products I Own
    TCD-D8, NW-A105, NW-A35, WM-EX550, D6C, PS4 PRO

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sweden
  • Interests
    IT, Hifi, Photo

Audio

  • ATRAC Devices
    NW-HD3, A1000, A3000, A808, E405, D-NE920
  • Headphones
    Sony WH-H900N, WH-1000M3, WF-1000M3, Bose QC25
  • Amplification
    Onkyo Integra
  • Minidisc units
    MDS-JB980, JE470, MZ-NH700, RH1, NH1, N10, Sharp MD-DR470

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  1. Hi! Being a bit late to this I recently acquired the DR470 and was also a bit afraid of using it with 3-pole HPs but Sharp has planned for that and protects the output with the following resistors in-line with the R- and L- signal. R774 and R773 makes it possible to create a sort of "virtual ground" when interconnected on 3-pole HPs like below; Going to try a set of 4-pole HPs soon since that would make the Amp to work as designed - and the resistors shouldn't be needed there either in a 4-pole "only" world 😉 Edit: Would love to see the internals of this adapter though: https://aiueokblog1.blogspot.com/2015/02/sharpad-d1acsharp.html Not easy to find one these days. /Per
  2. Many hours later I've changed my mind a bit, the RH1 wins and especially the way it handles bass - the rest (NH700, NH1, N10) are weaker in that regard IMHO. It probably helps that the in-line output capacitors are larger in the RH1 (470uF vs 220uF for NH1) and with low impedance HPs that's a plus! However, speaking of non-Sony MDs - just recently acquired a working Sharp MD-DR470 and the sound from that one is interesting and under evaluation ftm. /Per
  3. Hi! Since I received the N10 this summer I've tried to charge it with a BCA-NWHD3 (@6V) and can confirm it doesn't charge even if indicating so. The reason is most likely due to some control pins (cradle_det?) ends up connected to GND due to different pinout compared to the HD3/NH1 which it was made for. I plan to solve this with a separate MAX1811 IC connected within the BCA-NWHD3 adapter directly to the cell which is available for the N10! /Per
  4. All this sorted after I found a RM-MC40ELK in a bundle with a NW-HD3 to play with 🙂 /Per
  5. The menu options from the RM-MC38EL connected gives me all the settings stated in the manual except for the "clock set". I guess it needs three rows to be able to perform that...
  6. Apologies for the resurrection of this rather old thread but I guess the need NH1 charging still remains these days. I'm looking for the name/PN of this special NH1 connector as I don't want to pay 80 USD for an aftermarket cable with that connector. The connector looks like one of those proprietary phone ports from the past... /Per
  7. Thanks for the suggestion, I didn't know that would work. Unfortunately I don't have the cradle nor the USB cable yet. Guess I need to find myself a USB cable. /Per
  8. Hi! I recently managed to find a NH1 for a "reasonable" price these days but without the remote and now struggles with setting the clock with my remote from the RH1 (RM-MC38EL) - should that be possible or do I have to find a RM-MC40ELK? Thanks, /Per
  9. Hi! This is interesting since I've also been shifting between MD/SP and Hi-SP and haven't decided yet what to use. For stationary use MD/SP is the only choice but while portable I would like to use Hi-SP, according to Sony it "should" be better; Not the whole truth I would guess. /Per
  10. While awaiting my R909 to arrive I'm prepared to fix the overhead cable - if needed - and noticed the following way to repair it, any pros/cons with this way? /Per
  11. Yeah, it's missing the screw hole for support but do have two additional metal pins instead which should work as support I hope. Thanks, /Per
  12. Thinking of adding a DLT-1150 (found in a bad working optical switch) to my JE470 - that should work since it handles 3-5VCC
  13. A bit late but better than never I guess, I prefer the sound of the NH700 even if the RH1 is nice. Could be due to the NH700 using a analogue HP-amp instead of the HD digital amp in the RH1 and also the NH900 which I don't have anymore.. /Per
  14. My recently acquired MZ-R90 is losing most of the settings when turned off like and realized it contains a backup battery (BAT1) - does anyone know if this by any chance is the ML614? or something else? /Per
  15. Unfortunately I couldn't do the rebuild in a LIP-4WM case since the dedicated LIP-4WM I acquired was in perfect condition (to my surprise actually) Not that common these days to find a working original battery. I'm keeping it at 40-60% and hope it lasts forever :P /Per
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