fatmuttony

It's definitely not Volume - Max, because when I turn my RH1's out port to Line Out, you can't hear anything on the headphones. In fact, if I recall correctly, a line level signal is infact low gain. But yeah, I think Sony did this as a workable compromise for all the folks asking for a deck. Is it a full recharge?!

Well, one can't say the RH1 is just an RH910 plus a $100 surcharge. That was being kind of unfair to the best ever Hi MD Unit to come out IMO. Sorry if I sounded a bit too evangelical. I have an RH710 (RH910, minus Mic In, minus Ni MH rechargeables) and I love it to death. But having used both, I really do think the RH1 is well-worth the extra dough.

At that price, think of it as a basic cellphone. Make calls, receive calls, that's it. Similarly, play, pause, and stop, that's it. AFAIC, even the Line-In recording facility is a huge bonus for the price.

I know that when importing tracks from a CD, I like the Advanced Lossless Atrac 256 Kb/s setting because it's the right trade off between space and quality. However, I don't know what bitrate Atrac to convert my MP3s to before transferring to my RH710. THe RH710 is a 2nd gen unit, and MP3s transferred as is don't sound too good. So, for MP3s that have been encoded on 192 Kb/s, what Atrac should I convert to to get the best trade off between space and sound quality? Does this change with other bitrate MP3s (128 for example)? Thanks in advance. PS - Mods, if this would be better suited in the Software/SonicStage section, please move this there.

1) RH910 doesn't remember Rec Level = Manual settings. Everytime you start recording, you have to reset Rec Level to manual and then set the level. It starts off in Auto AGC by default. RH1 remembers Rec Level settings. 2) RH910 has only a headphone out. RH1 has a true line out because it uses Li Ion batteries. It's nice to have line out if you plan to EVER connect the unit to an amp system instead of headphones. 3) RH910 is a second gen unit, and all 2nd gen units have a small problem with the MP3 playback quality, making them sound kind of emasculated at the higher end of the audible frequency range. This problem has been fixed in the RH1 and MP3s sound perfect. 4) If I'm not mistaken, the RH910 comes with an Ni MH rechargeable battery which suffers from the memory effect. So, you can't charge from half charge .You have to do full charge and discharge cycles always. THe RH1 uses Li Ion batteries which don't suffer this problem. Charge anytime without worries. 5) RH910 can charge only through the AC adaptor. There's some sort of 'almost charge' facility when connected to a computer via USB. THe RH1 charges perfectly both through the AC adaptor and when connected via USB cable to a computer. In fact, even the wall adaptor ends in a USB plug which plugs into the USB port of the unit. If you want the best, the choice is obvious. RH1 it is.

There's no group button, the jog wheel has to be used to scroll through the tracks, and the three line display shows you the current track, previous track, and next track in this mode. However, with the jog dial, it's not much trouble. BUt yeah, the piano black 710 is a beauty, and a perfect work horse in conjunction with the RH1.

Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the info!

Maxell makes Hi MD blanks as well...

What was the setup you used to make these recordings A440?

I used to play in a band, in which, the bass player had a primitive Sharp MD recorder. We used to work with the Sound Engineer to work with the Aux Sends on each channel such that there were two mixes, one going out to the main speakers, and another mini-mixed to go into the MD recorder. However, I agree with A440 that the mix was never satisfying. It always seemed to lack that little something. I would say Mic is the best way to do it. Unless you have a very patient and cooperative Sound Engineer at the boards. As far as cables go, I think Mixer outs are usually RCA? So, you'll need an RCA --> EP cable. The EP is also called the stereo/mini/1/8th Inch cable. Looks identical to your headphones jack. I guess the other out option maybe the Phono (aka 1/4th inch) jack, in which case, you need a phono --> EP cable.

I think it would make sense to buy in Chile rather than London. EU prices are way higher than US prices, and the price you saw in Chile is pretty close to US retail price. I think UK prices are about 320 GBP? Which converts to much higher than 320 USD. Also, EU units have a wierd volume restriction that makes units sound kind of emasculated. If your unit resembles the US specifications, then you will have no volume restriction. Why do you want to pick it up in the UK rather than in Chile?

Aah, now it's recognized. I guess when the Battery came completely uncharged (upon delivery), the MD unit was not able to send the correct identifying signal back or whatever. Now that one charge cycle has happened peacefully, they seem to recognize each other like long-lost friends. Thanks for your help. Thanks! I went out and got an connector in any case. It makes logical sense that the same cord should work with a different connector. Because Power = Voltage x Current, and considering that the static impedance of the adaptor will remain a constant, if there's a higher input voltage, then the adaptor will draw a lower current to maintain the same power rating, right? IN which case, the cord that was built for 110 V (and hence a higher current carrying capacity) will easily handle the lower current that flows from the 220 V supply. Do correct me if I have it all wrong.

But my unit is not accessible if I click on Cancel when it says it needs to find a driver. Any ideas? . My display is blank. No animation, no dots, nothing. Though, after hooking it up for a while, I disconnected and pressed play to check if it was charged even a little, and it did come to life. So, I guess the USB charging is happening, but the unit is not recognized by the computer!

Ok. Got it. Meanwhile, like I said, I've hooked it up to my computer via USB. However, the display shows nothing. Any idea how long I should leave it hooked up to USB to get a full charge? LI Ion batteries don't like to be interrupted while charging right?

Thanks Avrin. I checked the socket in the adaptor and it looks like my stereo system uses the same socket to receive power from the mains. Should I try using the cord that leads from my mains to my stereo system to plug into my RH1? Or is that a dangerous move? Meanwhile, I've hooked up my RH1 to the computer via USB cable (I didn't realise that it could also be charged that way! Silly me ) but curiously enough, the computer flashed me a warning saying new hardware discovered, and to identify a driver. Is this driver on the CD that came with the unit? Does this mean I also have to install the SonicStage that came with the unit before it will be recognized? As of now, SonicStage (I have 3.4 ) does not show the Hi MD option in the Transfer options. Only Create an MP3 CD, Create an ATRAC CD, etc...

I just got my MZ RH1 package delivered to my house, and I need to know how I can power up the unit considering that the cord that comes with it is built for use in the US, ie 110 V, 60 Hz. I live in India, where we use 220 V, 50 Hz. THe user manual says that the input power to the adaptor is 100 - 240V ac. Does this mean that all I need is a connector that can interface between my wall socket and the US plug? Or do I need a device to step down the input voltage before I can power the unit? I'm currently hesitant to plug in and try it out... Any advice?

I'm still torn between getting an NH1 on sale (it's selling for what, 100 GBP now?!?) and waiting for the RH1 and getting it. My primary requirement is recording, and the NH1 has pretty much all the features there except for remembering manual gain settings. Additionally, NH1 has the AA versatility as a benefit. Damn, this decision is really hard. Any help from anyone? Why shouldn't I just settle for an NH1 going cheap, instead of forking out 350 Euros for the RH1? PS - I didn't vote, because my mind's not made up yet

Woohoo! That's good news then! Ok, so if one were to make a list of the package that they might want to purchase. What all do you think will go into this package? 1) RH1 2) 3 (?) Batteries 3) 10 (?) 1GB Blanks (Obviously fewer or none for those that already own a bunch of blanks) 4) Remote (?) if none owned previously (model number?) 5) Case (??) Anything else?

As a matter of comparison, is there any way in which either Gen 1 or Gen 2 players/recorders are better than the RH1? I can think of a dedicated line out in the NH1 and NH900 for one thing. THe 6 line display in the RH10 has been commented upon before this. Anything else?

Apologies to TLV and A440, I missed these two replies from the two of you. I am SERIOUSLY considering greenmachine's mics. But, what with the RH1 due for announcement, and my need for a good MD recorder with line-out capabilities (NH900?), I need to plan out my expenses a bit I guess I'll have to wait for reviews of RH1 (June?) before I can make up my mind. Thanks for all the info though.

Aah, MP3! I guess it's a sign that I don't care for MP3 playback compatibility since I obviously overlooked that bit. So, if the RH1 does not have a line-out or time-stamping, how do you think it compares to the NH1 (and the NH900) disregarding the whole MP3 bit?

I'm a bit confused between the MZ-NH series and the MZ-RH series. From specs, I can see that MZ-NH1 and MZ-NH900 seem to have more features packed into them (line-out for one) and some users have reported that they sound better than the MZ-RH910 and the MZ-RH10 when amplified. However, the MZ-RH series is supposed to be 2nd Gen HiMD and the MZ-NH series is supposed to be 1st Gen HiMD, correct? So the 1st Gen HiMD units remain better than the 2nd Gen units?

Right, so as of now, they're pretty much equal with HiMD having distinct advantages in on-the-field high fidelity recordings. Now, if the RH1 has only the features outlined above, and IF the Microtrack makes significant updates before releasing V2 (any idea on a probable date for V2?) then the MicroTrack has a slight edge. Is that what you're saying?

Aaah! But of course. I bow to you master, your kung fu is indeed better than mine.