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Everything posted by imkidd57

  1. Welcome to the forums. Are you sure the tracks were transferred from Sonicstage as SP? A legacy deck like the JB920 should play them even though they aren't true SP. Can you check...maybe they were encoded as LP2 or LP4 which it wont play.
  2. As a point of accuracy, most legacy recorders will apply a time-stamp to an MD recording, which will be written to sector 2 in the TOC information. With some decks, this information is accessible via the 'Retry Cause Display Mode'. The minidisc.org archives are a valuable source for this [1, 2]. It' a slightly precarious procedure as you have to pretend to record on a disc, then put the machine into a form of service mode which allows the time-stamp to be displayed for each track by rotating the AMS knob. The process can be exited without actually recording on the minidisc's TOC. *Ed
  3. Thanks NGY... the width of the shell is 23mm so ordered some 29mm and 32mm diameter material that’s due to arrive in 4-5 days. Film thickness 0.1mm
  4. Thanks NGY - that is a great suggestion. In practice, the critical tolerance for fitting into the MD compartment is the thickness of the LiPo component (the 'front-to-back depth' of the one on your image). It's definitely worth a try though... could you provide a link to the eb@y seller's items?
  5. OK so I made two ;-) Was pretty straightforward from the instructions given on the original site. It's a very well-designed shell for the parts, and my earlier doubts about the battery being loose in the frame were unfounded as I didn't read properly: it is held in place with glue between its 'wings' and the frame. A few minor comments: The areas on a new print that catch inside the MZ-NH1 casing are the '+' and '-' characters, which were printed raised a bit too high. Easily reduced with careful sandpapering. The new LiPo battery's original orange sellotape, that cover
  6. How did you get on, Rusty? I printed a shell on a Prusa i3 MK3s+ in PLA, and although a bit rough and ready, it fits inside an MZ-NH1 quite well. A couple of areas needed a touch of sandpaper to stop them catching. Will try soldering the contacts and attaching a LiPo battery in the next couple of days.
  7. FYI... I noticed a post by someone who created a 3D-printed shell for the new LiPo battery type, thus disposing of the need for the original LIP-4WM case with its extra thickness. The shell is printed on an Ultimaker, which is a fairly top-end machine, but some members may have access or could verify the print accuracy on a different unit (the .stl file can be downloaded from that page). It could also be useful to verify whether the new arrangement is a frictionless fit in Sony portables other than the RH1 which use the LIP-4WM, such as the NH1. https://www.hallaminventions.com/projects/m
  8. OK can you be a bit more specific with your trials; it sounds like you have the outer covers off, but let's not assume. Did you use a charged and verified AA battery, or a 3V power supply? Pressed <Play> button with either blank or recorded disc? Does anything appear on the display, with or without a disc? Which electrical tap points are you measuring at, and what voltages are you expecting to see?
  9. Another confirmed plus for this method; and one suggested slight modification. There seems to be a couple of layers of the orange tape holding the replacement battery's regulation circuit in place, which increases the thickness of the whole assembly. It's possible to take the outermost piece of sticky orange tape off, and 'unroll' the circuit away from the battery itself, reducing the thickness for eventual easier insertion into the MD player. There's still one layer of orange tape remaining to protect the little circuit board. I set the half-assembled new battery to charge in an external
  10. Legacy MD and MDLP, yes... Though AFAIK the MZ-RH1 (M200) method would not work for NetMD files, whereas MDTE does.
  11. There's a Sharp MD-MT2x0 on the top line, second from right.
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