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Everything posted by cochra1

  1. I think 'plug-in power' means that a condensor mic has its 'phantom power' (essential for a condensor mic to function) fed up the wire from the machine and so does not need its own little battery.
  2. Do try to stay focussed on minidisc-related topics, Doomlordis.
  3. Cool. I heard from a guy in a music shop that too low a voltage can cause damage (rather than too high) - but it does sound illogical to my uneducated ears, so I'm sure you're probably right!
  4. I'm one of those people that won't dip below 256 mbps! In fact, if I'm using SonicStage I tend to go up to 352. The higher bitrates just sound smoother, more transparant, and give less ear fatigue. You can get so much stuff on a 1Gig disc, even at those rates, and if you need more tunes, well, just pop another disc in your pocket, simple as that. As for differences in actual recording quality between an NH600 and an RH1, I may be off beam here, but would there really be any difference at all (if recorded from a digital source/uploaded from SS)? The difference would really be in the playback only, due to the different analogue stages (and the addition of a digital amp in the RH1). I can't imagine the data recorded to the disc would be any different in either machine. Of course, recording from an analogue source would produce differences in quality between the two machines, and I'd be very surprised if the RH1 didn't come out on top (by a long way). But I've never compared them.
  5. Yes he does, that's right.
  6. I agree with the previous poster. If the recordings are that precious to you, get an external hard drive and stick them on that. As for the file format, in terms of quality you should get all your original tapes recorded from a high quality tape machine onto your PC via a decent quality sound card, in uncompressed WAV format (disgard your ATRAC copies, they aren't worth the limitations). You can save a lot of disc space by zipping up the files in compressed folders. There's plenty of recording software/sequencers out there that'll record your sounds without adding DRM protection - in fact check out the freeware that's available. And even if the files are wrapped up in DRM there are many more programs that'll remove it too. But to be honest, if you're recording onto your PC from an analogue source, there is no way you'll be forced by most recording software to apply DRM if you don't want it (and who does).
  7. Maybe you can get some tips from this thread my good man. http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=18540&hl=
  8. Yeah, the NH1 - like all digital disc players - works the same way. Reads a bit from the disc, which is loaded into a buffer or memoray storage area, and this then feeds the DAC (digital-analogue-converter) which produces the analogue sound. Because the disc can be read much faster than the DAC needs to convert to sound, it only needs to do this in dribs and drabs to keep the memory topped up as required. How often the disc needs to be read also depends on the bitrate of the files. Lower bitrates have less data per unit of sound so need to be read less during the course of any given listening period as the buffer is emptied more slowly and the DAC converts at a less strenuous rate, hence longer battery life at low bitrates. I would guess that this intermittant disc spinning can't be physically heard or felt so much on the NH1 due to superb engineering.
  9. cochra1

    md again..

    That statement makes no sense no matter how many times I read it... ...anyway: get yourself a Hi-MD from Sony my friend. Doesn't have to be an NH1 (although they are really sexy beasts) but you can also get really cheap (if just a little chunky) NH600s on the web. These are very power-efficient babies too. The main advantage of Hi-MD is the high disc capacity (1 Gig) coupled with advanced compression codecs giving improved quality over old minidisc ATRAC. The right sound can be achieved by investing a little in a pair of reasonably good earphones. The sound can also be tailored as necessary with the 5-band eq which is standard on (as far as I know) all Sony Hi-MDs. So for little earphones you may need to give the bottom end a little boost. The NH1 is great also as it plays MP3 files, very convenient if you buy your downloads of the net. After all, the ATRAC files available to download from Sony's site are horrible quality (very low bitrates) but MP3s are available up to 320 mbps. Buying goods off the net these days is very easy and, if you use a reputable dealer, very safe also. It's also generally a good bit cheaper than a shop and offers massively more variety. I highly recommend it.
  10. Of course my friend. I use a Pro-Ject Debut turntable. My minidisc is strictly for use on the move. As much as I treasure my Hi-MD, I wouldn't sully my stereo system at home by feeding it that!
  11. Not at all. As long as the machine gets its required power supply - whether from a rechargable, an alkaline, or even via a mains adaptor - the sound output will be exactly the same. The only thing that matters is that it gets the correct voltage. Even then, if it works, it works - you won't hear any difference in sound by varying the voltage a little. But generally the wrong voltage (particularly if too low, as I understand it) may cause damage to the circuitry and cause the machine to cease to work. Bottom line is it'll either work or it won't, but there is no in-between effects to the sound or output. That's digital electronics for you.
  12. Thanks. After some searching I did find one company in the UK and have ordered one. There are some on ebay being offered from China at about a third the standard price. I wouldn't touch those with a barge pole, they've got to be cheap fakes, you can smell it a mile off. Shame the only batteries I can find for the NH1 from anywhere at all are only 370 mAh capacity. I've got rechargable AA batteries at 4 times that capacity. Maybe it's cos they're so small...
  13. Ok, thanks. Any suggestions as to where I obtain a battery for the RH1 in the UK? Thanks Rentabau.
  14. You only do PCM recordings? Seems a bit extravegant given that the best ATRAC bitrates are pretty near indescernable from the uncompressed sounds (IMO of course), especially when out an about in the city. Having said that, if you use the unit to play through a decent stereo I'm sure you would hear some difference.
  15. Guys, can anyone advise me on this, as I have just bought an RH1 and am awaiting delivery. Check out this product tour from Sony: http://www.sony.co.uk/view/ShowArticle.act...;site=odw_en_GB Now look down the page to this paragraph: Functional, attractive design Ultra slim, compact and weighing a mere 106 grams, the MZ-RH1 slips comfortably into a handbag or breast pocket. The unit’s operating buttons have also been well thought out, and are conveniently positioned for easy and intuitive use. The MZ-RH10 can be powered either by a single "AA" Alkaline Battery, Lithium ion Rechargeable Battery (LIP-4WM), or AC Power Adapter (AC-S508B) as supplied. It provides up to 19 Hours continuous playback with the rechargeable battery. A power level indicator also ensures fail-proof recording. Alternatively, the MZ-RH1 offers a USB Bus Power/Charging option, which means you can connect it to a PC and charge the unit through a USB cable in the absence of an AC adapter. The choice is yours. Notice anything? It suddenly launches into a pitch about the RH10, mentioning it can be powered by an AA battery. First time I read this I was deceived into thinking the RH1 could be powered by such a battery - or is it just a typo, meaning the RH1 does take an AA? Further into the same paragraph it advises that the RH1 can be recharged direct from a PC via the USB cable. But I have read elsewhere on this forum that charging from the PC is not possible. Anyone in the know, please advise, thanks! Also, I've been looking around UK sites to buy a back-up battery for the RH1, but can't find one anywhere. Any recommendations? Thanks. Andy
  16. Actually, most ears can detect a cutoff at 14khz. This is experienced as a lack of transparancy and lack of realism. That area of frequency between 10k and 20k is quite important when aiming for a relaxing, effortless sound. However, I would say the bottom end is the more important of the two extremes to preserve - its the bottom end which is the first thing to be persevably lost when listening in most noisy environments (eg on a train) as man-made/machine/engine noises tend to generate a lot of low end frequencies which drown out your music's bottom end.
  17. Just bought a brand spanking new sexy black RH1! Can't wait for it to be delivered. Before I listen to it I'm gonna look at it for a while first, and admire those luscious curves, and maybe pleasure myself a little. Then we'll share a cigarette and I'll slip a big HiMD disc into it's tight little loading bay. Oh yes. I'll shove my earphones in tight then listen to the dulcet tones as it sings to me, and I'm gonna hack it's volume limiter till it screams... Ahem...er, sorry, got a bit carried away, I am kind of excited about getting her - I mean it.
  18. Interesting. Think I'll do that. I see on another of your posts you still have your RH1 - thought you sold it cos you were skint! Maybe I misread something. I just bought one off ebay and am awaiting delivery. Anyhoo, I think I'll get a genuine pair of CX300 phones as you said they are 'the lick'. I gather that means they are quite good. Oh yeah, the name's Andy - Kanako is the lead singer with my band Kanako & The Numbskulls!
  19. Thanks everyone for your advice, I have now purchased an RH1 through ebay for £175, and am awaiting delivery. Can't wait!!!
  20. Well, I got my CX300s from the seller on Amazon, and I reckon they probably are fakes cos they really don't sounds that nice. The bass is muddy and the top end trails off quite dramatically at around 8-10k. I've heard too many good things about these phones to believe these are the real deal. I'll get some genuine ones - or maybe something else - but I'll spend a reasonable amount this time. Oh well. Eight quid. They say if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.
  21. WRONG! IN YOUR FACE ERIKTOUS! Only joking my friend, it's cool! It seems, from much of the feedback to be found, that the D Normalizer is about the best of all the various 'volume-effecting' modules out there.
  22. As I understand it, they didn't just single out the old SP for exclusion on SS; in theory all the old modes were to be discontinued. But it so happens that the old LP2/LP4 codecs have been incorporated into the lower regions of the range of Hi-MD codecs (and re-named), that's the only reason they're still there. Old SP was thought to be obsolete, given the apparantly higher quality (yet lower bitrate) top Hi-MD modes now available. I think I got that right, but I'll stand corrected if anyone knows different and thinks I'm talking BS (which I may well be. )
  23. Haha, good man, quite right. I was only indulging in a spot of banter, no offence meant I'm sure. Hit me baby one more time
  24. Best thing (in terms of as-close-to-audiophile-quality-as-possible) is to turn the thing off. The thing is basically a compressor/limiter, not a real 'normaliser' (which would require pre-analysation to behave as true normalisers do). Having this thing enabled is just another module to sap the life out of your tracks (as with AVLS). Having said that, I have heard that it is quite subtle, but I wouldn't use it myself. If you really want to normalise your tracks do it on your PC (in WAV format). This will degrade the tracks slightly as they have to be reprocessed during format conversion and during normalisation. In fact, get this notion of normalisation out your head boy, and enjoy the true dynamics of the recordings - the odd push of your remote's volume will take care of songs that are drastically different in volume.
  25. Genesis - The Lamb Lies Down On Broadway Kanako & The Numb Skulls - Sounds Of Numb Skulls (sorry, shameless publicity)
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