sfbp

I don't get it. That is why it (the original posting of this) got moved to The Loft (usual place for jokes and so on). But I have never understood The Far Side.....

I plan on putting the original unit back in both cars that I converted, in each case before resale of that vehicle. I went the same route as you initially, and did not get satisfaction until I went all-Sony. I see no reason why the right head unit should look in the least incongruous.

No, you won't. There's no hardware support for it.

Can you post a picture of the pin end of the cable that goes into the BMW changer? I looked for the adapter but the one I found seems just to have gone off the market. I know you don't really want to have "non-BMW" in your car. But these units are ISO standard size, so it may be just as easy to give the headunit you take out a rest in your garage, and get a Sony. Here's an example for you: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-CD-Player-xplod-CDX-GT610U-/160617571827 Note that Sony changers always come with the 15 ft cable. This includes the MD changer and any CD changer (there's one that plays MP3 CDs as well as ordinary ones, but unfortunately not Atrac CDs). Threading the cable should be no big deal. One more thing - I don't think you can have both changers in your car at the same time without a switcher box. Sony has one, called the XA-C40 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-RfCSBz95Gse/p_158XAC40/Sony-XA-C40.html Unless BMW/Alpine allows the daisy-chain in some unrevealed fashion, this kind of box is the only way to accomplish that. The XA-C40 (and its predecessors second hand) is readily available. If you can make the existing wiring to the boot work with Sony, the hardest question is can the Alpine headunit switch between the devices via this box or not? My guess is not.

A neat little beast, lacking only one thing of course.... HiMD.

It's all in the perspective. So many times have I seen such pics of MD's and equipment only to be knocked sideways when I realised how TINY it is.

Note that the nice display thingummy attaches not to the 66XLP but to the RF modulator-controller. If you get a head unit that can actually talk to the changer then everything else goes away (you really don't want the RF modulator, it is a last resort). There are lots of these in Japan and sometimes a few in the UK. As to the converter, it has my reservations, and my conclusion is the same... trust Sony+Sony. Ooohhh go look at piccies at installer.com. Is it POSSIBLE that BMW is actually using a Sony interface? Finally, this article about head unit installs looks pretty much on-point for you Beamer owners.

There should be no problem with connecting an S-link device (Sony bus) to something else provided you know what the something else is - at the electrical level. Installer.com seems to have most of the converters. I bought one for Sony->Chrysler, and I have to admit, it was not a great success, because the programming of the thing was not finished. Every time I got a track that got to 9m59s the counter stuck until 11m0s (and same at 19m59s etc too). So you need to know what the head unit does. What sort of connector does the CD changer attach with? I assume you have already sourced an MDX-66XLP. They are not so easy to find, and I had to get mine from Japan, second hand. IMO you can't do much better than simply go all-Sony. The existing speakers should be fine with the Sony headunit, of which there are dozens to choose from, just make sure the one you pick has changer control coming out the back. Installation aside you should be able to pick up a nice one for under 50 quid. Any of them will work your proposed 66XLP, which unit will fit almost anywhere (even in the glove box if you're desperate).

funny, I looked again and it really looks like they are the std MD dimensions. But I am sure we woulda heard about this from Sony, who always included all possible lengths in their docs for every unit.

Ha! tyvm John

Hi Jeff, I'm curious about 2 things: 1. What are the 90m disks in the third picture? I had no idea that such a thing existed, and would order some in an instant if I could 2. What is the model # of the "NetJuke" and what does it do? So far I have not seen an MD unit with an ethernet connection. Nice to have you back here with us Stephen

This IS Sonic Stage 4.3 CP.

Sorry my friend Analog is analog, bits = 0 or bits = infinity. The input to the D->A converter is 24 bits, but that is the case anyway, since ATRAC is stored that way. The only externally available digital sound in 24-bits is from the 940 (and maybe a couple of others, 333ES and 555ES, the latter also permitting the unusual 20 bits output). I might guess that it would be possible to fix some other units to output 24-bits but way beyond my competency. Most people are buying the high end stuff for the ANALOG output, i.e. great D->A.

I doubt it. Sony made all the core technology, and merely licensed it to others. You will see how Sharp and Kenwood just "happened" to get 24-bit ATRAC right around the same time Sony did (or a little after). And I don't know of ANY deck except the 940 which has true 24-bit S/PDIF output. Unless you can show me a service manual that shows different, I believe that most of the non-Sony improvements are cosmetic/marketing. That's one reason I have stuck 100% to Sony.

Notice I say get FROM the decks. TO the decks is mostly 24-bits. Everything from JE530 onwards, I think. And a few high-end (ES) models before that, such as the JA50ES (the JA3ES is still only 20 bits).

I think most if not all Sony recorders store ATRAC as 24-bits. Since Sharp doesn't let you get it out digitally, the only ways to get 24-bit ATRAC from the decks are a. uploading with Sonic Stage from RH1 b. the MDS-JB940 which will actually output 24 bits to TOSlink.

Probably you cannot. To do so requires a very dodgy procedure whereby the firmware of the drive is rewritten. I've done it but not with a Sony. Knowing Sony, they probably made it difficult if they could. However the Mats drive procedures are fairly well known (and published), it's your risk. Suppose you have two region codes you need to watch (very common situation). It's possible to change the region of the drive 4 times, not very cool. However if you set your internal drive to 4 (Oz) you could get a USB external drive that you could set to 1 (USA) or 2 (Europe). Not perfect but should be good enough, as external drives are not bank-breaking affairs any longer. PS did you see this thread?

Jim Hoggarth probably has an opinion. When I got my (used) Denon DRM800 tape deck I went through this, by simply following the service manual's instructions. It's pretty easy to fix the azimuth because basically you are simply looking to equalise the signal between channels. I wouldn't be in the least surprised if there was something else messing up the tape transport itself - but I assume you cleaned in the time-honoured fashion before posting, Bruce. If you have a commercially recorded tape of any description, the chances are the levels should be balanced between channels (and you can check using the non-broken deck maybe, before starting). Here's the manual (beware this site only allows 2 d/l per day, so don't click around too much). The link says "Get Manual" in quite small writing near bottom right. Sorry I did my usual thing, re-reading the thread, you have the manual already. http://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_ct-w806dr_ct-07d_sm.pdf/download.html I took a copy anyway so worst case I can find a way to get it to you. You can easily use one of the PC Sound editing programs to generate a 315Hz test tone (and indeed any other tones) which you record on the good deck. Page 40 tells you the exact contents of said tape. Stephen

Does the video version of Sonic Forge (it's called Vegas, I think) do what you want? I know there are some hooks in SF to help with editing video sound tracks, but the real DVD stuff is elsewhere. Nero 9 should do most of what you want. There's also WinDVD Creator.

http://www.encompassparts.com/products/?A-4672-542-B $107.59 Stephen PS a couple of other sources state almost the same price.

lsass is the security system (kerberos). Without it, Windows dies. Yes indeed, XP never supported 3GB properly; it may well be that you can put the last 1GB back in AFTER you finished a new install. I had not realised you were running the install when the crash occurred. If you have the proper Sony disk with valid XP license (and activation code), you are ok. Otherwise get ready to hand over shekels, zlotys, forints to Microsoft. Note: with any generic version you will have to install all the drivers from that website I posted the link to. There's got to be an easier way, though I've done that with an IBM Thinkpad many a time.

AAL is a storage format. Even the devices that claim to play it are simply playing the compressed (lossy) part. If you rip to AAL (just like to flac) then conversion to the format of your choice should go easily. You will have to turn flac to WAV first. I suggest you import WAV to SS, then convert to AAL whence you can a. regenerate WAV if needed b. transfer to MD If you pick the lossy part of the AAL to be 256K (detailed configuration, I am sure you will find it), then this will allow reduction to either LP2 (132k) on MD or almost-direct transfer of the lossy part to HiMD. It's not a good idea to use USB to transfer MDSP (292k) to disk, because the software only gives you half (LP2) quality. If you have a need for SP (such as a car player that is SP-only), recommend you record in real time through the optical input of the MD recorder.

If you look at "about" (under Help) you will see a list of the versions. Most significantly, OpenMG Secure Module shows (on mine) as 5.0.00.11280 Stephen

It's the first download in the downloads section. "Just" click on downloads at the top of this screen and you'll see it right away. Stephen

That's the version of the main program. Avrin actually packaged up some newer versions of some of the components in that download on our website, so it's actually NEWER in some regards than the package from Sony.