sfbp
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Posts posted by sfbp
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Hard to tell from the description. I don't much like the sound of having to "move the adjusters" for the + and - terminals, when most Li-Ion batteries actually have 3 terminals.
I'd be inclined to check out this:
Sorry I don't remember if it fails to charge without the stand but I think not; that stand is very nice but a cosmetic detail, especially since you can't do USB to it (if my memory serves correctly). I would also comment that you do NOT want to be always removing and reinserting the LIP-4WM which is a really tight fit. Once it becomes less than tight, your connection (to the battery terminals) may become quite unreliable.
There is a stand for sale in Germany (no cable). Sigh.
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best and most reliable is to do a SS backup to xternal HD, then restore to new installation
Before you do ANY of that, make certain you deprotect all your tracks by running the File Conversion Tool. That way the raw files CAN be imported. If not, you're out of luck with that approach (file-by-file) and may never hear some of your music ever again.
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Fair enough, the actual contents of the ROM were not published. But the description was published of the invention and its methodology, so whether a particular implementation is a trade secret is hardly a thorny question when you consider what's happened, generally, in the last 23 years in terms of law about such things.
I don't believe anyone is in legal jeopardy here. The owners of any copyright would have to go to great lengths to protect something so old, and they probably can not.
The only legal issue is from those who USE the technology to break some sort of intellectual-property protection of ideas or data. And that ship has sailed a long time ago.
Rest easy.
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There's no way it is protected by patent, way too much time has gone by. It's not a trade secret, since it was published. So you have zero worries about copyright. Charge ahead!
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Hmmm - that looks suspiciously like a Sony controller (non-MD). I wonder if the codes are related?
To clarify, it's the only manufacturer who made one with those dimensions and that shape of buttons.
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5 hours ago, NGY said:
I second to Kevin, none of my MD discs I have ever bought (first one back in early 1998 or so) had any trouble with recording onto, even these days, but one or two (out of ~1400-ish).
I echo that.... the only thing that appeared to be brand-of-md-related is the report I and others made with some disks with transparent cases (the TD RXG) recording ok, but not playing back well on some other devices eg my MDX-66XLP car MD changer.
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So we're thinking the spots are patches of lubricant?
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Please note that the (optical) socket doubles as a standard stereo line input when you insert a normal 3.5mm jack. This is not coax digital but line-in analogue.
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10 hours ago, kgallen said:
Writing the titles is the same process as writing the audio data. On the basis of that argument, the best way to "save your machine" is to never record an MD. The audio data on an MD is around 200 megabytes (say 200,000,000 bytes). Any titles will be at most a few hundred bytes (say 200 bytes). Go figure!
Maybe this tale comes from the AMS knob "wearing out" selecting each of the letters. From experience, using that method is more wearing on the human performing the labelling process than the machine!
Glad your deck is back to life, heartening to hear!
I think the advice probably originated from wearing out the (finite?) number of button pushes required from some more primitive forms of MD Decks, especially Pre-NetMD. The RM-D20P solves *that* problem, at least for decks. Trying to label things on a portable is IMHO a thankless task.
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Glad to hear it. More to the point, don't even consider the sexy-looking full-face labels that stick all over the MD. Mind you, I imagine that it's hard for them to have a loose edge which is in the end what caused your disaster. I'm just rather cautious.
Stephen
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I have no idea if the "reset drive" even works for the 105FX. I read about it in the 105 manual just now. Sounds pretty nasty.
If you get the machine apart you might see if it's something obvious like a broken tooth on the gear/reck which does the ejection/insertion.
I have once or twice had apparently intractable problems where the 105FX failed. Leaving it powered down (not standby, but removing the cord from mains supply) overnight fixed the problem.
I don't think there's a SM for the 133 either.
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Sorry Kevin, that's not the manual for the 105FX, just its ancestor the 105. Up to now we've been unable to find one for the 105FX.
Looking briefly I would say there's no belt, so don't get your hopes up. In the 105's manual (the one linked) there's a reference to resetting the drive. I wonder if this is perhaps worth trying?
Is the cause of this something sticky on the MD? I am totally resistant to the full-covering and also the side mounted labels on MDs because of this type of problem.
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Nope. Don't do it. That's how my CMT-PX3 (DHC595MD) got toasted before I ever received it. When I got the drive back from Jim, I found that same power->100V converter. Magically everything stopped overheating.
Our voltage here is closer to 120 than 110, routinely. Not sure about Nova Scotia.
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My first reaction would be to say that the power adapter is an excellent device and works perfectly. I have one.
My second reaction would be to look at the schematic and see if you can figure out how to modify what's there, rather than putting in a whole new supply. Sony is very very careful about their components, and unless the one you got was from Sony, I would be rather sceptical of its ability to provide noise-free operation.
Sadly, this is the most recent deck from Sony (another reason not to mess with it), and I cannot find a service manual. I have a vague recollection from someone describing to me how Sony has (in the past) used strappings of the same power transformer (including a weird
loopbackbackstrap which is the difference between 110 and 100 volts). But as this appears to be a domestic only model (correct me if I am wrong) I doubt if there are any such provisions.I would NOT butcher this beautiful deck.
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Sorry theres some "smarts" built into the way tracks are imported.
I don't think you can get around it except by changing the track titles. If you are importing CDs, you must be toast. By all means poke around inside the configuration menus, but I have never noticed anything.
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You will need our one-size-fits-all download (32- or 64- bits) driver for NetMD. You will need to disable driver signing for one reboot cycle. Google it and look on the site, there are endless descriptions of what to do.
Good luck!
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This is emphatically not a PC forum, and those of us who do know about PCs (myself included) know next to nothing about VAIO PCs and have never had one in their hands.
Having said that, I am aware of similar issues in the land of Lenovo/W10.
Initially I had the same problem but one day it started working just fine.
You MIGHT try installing W7 bluetooth support over top of whatever you have, assuming their bitness is the same (32- or 64-) between the two setups. Certainly a number of other drivers (not BT) have worked for me "upgrading" to W10 from W7.
Your alternative is to try and get a patched version of W7. It ***is*** possible. Let your fingers do the walking, no point in posting links here.
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Most W10 are upgrades. Not sure how you force W10 to go into 32-bits though. The ones I have dealt with mainly got there because someone had 32-bit Win7 before that, and upgraded it.
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Thanks for this - very useful at some future juncture (for me) and for OP if/when he gets a deck.
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I'd forgotten all about this and moved on. It's still sitting in the heap of unfinished projects on my messy den floor.
Happy New Year!
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You've been watching Die Hard 3, I can tell. (calls in a loud voice "J - E - R - E - M - Y"). That woke me up anyway.
Stepsimhon
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Thank you Kevin
This is terrific for those whose machines have parts which simply fail.
As i figured out when upgrading the D40 and D5C, the 5V part is actually easier to work with since 5V is already on the main inter-board connector. Check?
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Thank you for the much more precise answer Gyula. Hope you had a good Christmas - we are all very quiet and rather lonely here, as despite no lockdown everyone has abandoned social relationships after listening to the prognostications of our top doctors. I was painting a broad picture, and it turns out that the USB devices were all CXD-2664 whereas the PS/2 devices were CXD-2662. I've no idea if the actual BOARD can be swapped though - seems much easier (!) to swap the OWH. Regardless there is likely to be at least an alignment cycle (correct me if I am wrong on this point or any other), so for those without LPM it isn't easy "just" swapping things.
My own experiences of OWH repair are in two parts: portables and decks. The portable (MZ-N505) I and a friend managed to repair, it was a nightmare of not being able to see, trying to heat solder without melting plastic, and pure fiddliness. The only deck that I got fixed (my MDM7 in the PX-3) went off to Jim Hoggarth back in the day. I vividly recall my efforts to fix a stuck MDS-JE510 which ended with it going to the dump.
There is a bright side to machines (decks or portables) with broken OWHs - they can be used to erase disks (particularly when you have a disk that won't respond to treatment due to copy-protection after transfer by NetMD).
NEED MZ NH1 cradle
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Double-sigh. The NH1 does ***NOT*** charge from the cable alone. Sorry for raising false hope. The MZ-RH1 does, however.
Further error by me - the LIP-4WM has only 2 terminals. So that other device would be safe. Doesn't buy you transfer to a PC though. To answer your other question, having computer hooked to stereo may be just as effective, and much less costly.