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Everything posted by kgallen

  1. kgallen

    Cpu Upgarde Sony Vaio

    I don’t know the machine. If it’s a desktop the CPU is almost certainly socketed. If a laptop probably not. Soldering will never be an option. You will have to find all the specs on the CPU to see if there is a compatible higher spec part wrt voltages and bus frequencies. It’s worth googling to see what other machines were in the same range as they may well share the same motherboard. Sorry just generic advice, possibly you already know.
  2. Whilst the ATRAC1 v4.5 and Type R are revered, I think in practice ATRAC1 v3.5 and up are likely to be more than adequate for us common souls. It seems ATRAC1 v3.5 was considered "near CD quality", so anything beyond is bonus. I can understand you are more than happy with your ATRAC1 v4 Sony and as the Kenwood uses the same DSP, on the digital side you're bang-for-bang. So it will come down to how well Kenwood implemented their power supply, analogue circuitry - and for practical purposes how well their user interface is designed and how their machine looks. Unless the seller has a known track record I'd take the refurbishing claims with a pinch of salt. Personally I'd avoid any machine that claims to have had a new laser fitted because you have no clue if the seller knew truly what they were doing and if the machine is now calibrated correctly to get sensible performance and usage before the laser goes pop - or wipes your treasured MO recordings. Good luck and let us know how you get on and how you feel yourself about the Kenwood!
  3. :-D the simple solutions are the best! Great news!
  4. Chiming. Sounds like a control thing. With the machine off I would give the AMS knob a spin and give the buttons a bit of pressing. By default you probably get to that menu item with two presses of Yes or the AMS button so I’d work those a little to make sure they aren’t stuck. Also crazy as it sounds make sure there is not a Sony remote close by. One of the weirdest problems I ever had was my two racked E12s kept going into play. Turned out the IR remote (which was above/behind the decks) had the play button pressed!
  5. Hi Steven, Honestly I don't know! I've never done it and the instructions generally relate to decks. Your machine seems to date after several of the decks listed but the DSP that is quoted on minidisc.org is the 2652 which is the version before the 2654. The 2654 is used in the MDS-JE520 which is a popular deck (in general) and one of the first to allow you to do this TOC cloning thing. Admittedly the cloning cheat is more likely to relate to firmware features on the microcontroller rather than the DSP, it's just the DSP chip number tends to be a pointer to features appearing in the evolution of the products. You might be looking for a friend with a suitable deck or visiting your favourite auction site for a suitable machine (caution - this is path fraught with danger - just look at many of us on here who once upon a time had one MD machine and now have *cough* "more than one" shall we say). I'm assuming you're in the US? (In which case I can't offer to help as I'm in the UK). Sorry I can't help more at this stage: so the answer to your question is "possibly, but this is not documented territory". Regards, Kevin
  6. Hi Steven, This link might help. https://www.minidisc.org/cloning_procedure.html Assuming you haven't already, I'd download the remaining intact tracks first just so you don't lose the lot! Kevin
  7. When you say ‘Start’ button do you mean Play? I would try: Hold the Stop button pressed for 15 seconds then try to eject any disc. This is ‘Super Undo’ and makes the machine forget any TOC changes that it thinks it wants to write to disk.
  8. You only really need to solder the bridge if you’re disconnecting the laser from the circuit - like when you’re replacing it. Otherwise unless you’re scrubbing your nylon socks on the carpet and poking your finger at the laser ribbon cable bare ends you should be fine.
  9. I think you know what you're doing - but it looks to me like you will need to drill the PCB very precisely to take these pins. That is assuming there are no other PCB traces in the way and that the copper fill planes on top and bottom are the same signal (GND hopefully) otherwise you will create a dead short, possibly across a power supply (say +3V3 is on the top and 0V on the bottom). Risky. Do lots of physical and electrical checks and good luck...!
  10. This weekend I had to do exactly the same (again) with my 530. It started failing to read discs. Give the two ribbons a clean and also voila, normal service resumes! Result!
  11. Tascam MD-CD1 (Mk1) UK Model (no LA-MC1 balanced I/O kit fitted) DSP=CXD2662AR (ATRAC1 Type-R/ATRAC3 MDLP)
  12. Tascam MD-801R UK Model (note: Keyboard/Remote PCB is missing, fluorescent display -30V inverter is missing and replaced with experimental solution) DSP=CXD2531BR (ATRAC1 v2) two-channel ATRAC encoder/decoder with separate CXD2525AR EFM/ACIRC encoder/decoder. BU-801 optional buffer RAM location (unpopulated in this machine) shown above. CXD2531BR_Sony.pdf CXD2525AQ-Sony.pdf
  13. Sony MDS-E10 UK Model (Note: I've replaced the ML2020 battery above, but couldn't get the correct mount type, hence the blue wire) DSP=CXD2662AR (ATRAC1 Type-R/ATRAC3 MDLP)
  14. Sony MDS-E12 UK Model DSP=CXD2662AR (ATRAC1 Type-R/ATRAC3 MDLP) Note: Front panel is mostly the same as MDS-E10 shown below. E12 input selection switch is between bal/unbal/coax.
  15. Sony MDS-JE530 UK Model DSP=CXD2656AR (ATRAC1 Type-R)
  16. Labelled: hmm... I do need a gold coloured screw...
  17. From these two datasheets (one for the DLT-1150, one for the Cliff OTJ-5 [known to work and fit]), the pinout and pin pitch looks the same, but the mechanicals for the DLT-1150 are a little different - the plastic support pins are in a different position and there is no self-tapping screw hole for support. So you'll have to cut off the plastic lugs then be relying on the 3 soldered PCB connections. So electrically it will probably work (I didn't compare the electrical characteristic), but it will be mechanically weak - inserting a TOSLINK plug will tend to want to cam the connector on the PCB. Good luck - let us know how you get on. DLT-1150 Cliff OTJ-5
  18. This is a relatively late model. They seem to have gone back to through hole components. How bizarre. At this date 2001-ish I'm very surprised surface mount wasn't far cheaper. Far easier for us now though!
  19. Quite possibly perished load and drive belts. I can really help much more other than suggest you look for a Service Manual (Sony are generally pretty good with this) and try and figure out if your machine has any rubber belts and if you can find the spec of these if so. It’s possible you could find a seller on, say eBay, that can provide a kit of those required - although this is not fool proof depending on the knowledge and experience of the seller (wrong size belts, wrong type, missing belts).
  20. Thanks Stephen. Hopefully I should be good with the hardware side of it (await crying post in a couple of weeks!). At this point I'm assuming that Win7 will have a built-in driver for the motherboard RS232 port as it will be part of the standard "AT" chipset that's been on every PC from the start of time (I think!). If not then i guess I'll need to get one of those USB-RS232 adaptors, but it seems silly to need to do so! (I have a real aversion to the USB mechanicals since it has no secure locking mechanism - although nowhere near as bad as HDMI, what an abortion that is - weak insecure plug/socket attached to a chunky cable, jeez what a joke...). I digress...
  21. No rush! Do this when you're ready. I just wanted to check I hadn't missed your posting and you were wondering why no-one was playing with your new software! I'll be using it with an E12 (don't have an E11), so if you know of any obvious incompatibilities then let me know. First problem, possibly is to get a PC to use it's RS232 port... I have a Win 7Pro 32-bit with RS232 so it should be possible... :-)
  22. I'm slightly embarrassed to ask as in theory I should be able to work it out... however this is slightly new territory for me. Ctrl-S is input only (e.g. MDS-E10, MDS-E12). Can this be driven from a Control-A1 [or Control-A1(II)] "output" to transfer titles from the Control-A1 MD to the Ctrl-S MD? From the SM, the MDS-E10 Ctrl-S input circuit is a little different to the Control-A1, but as @sfbp has said on a number of threads, these, plus SIRCS plus IR are all based around the "IR Remote Control" protocol. So has anyone tried this type of connection and did it work? Any issues with A1 vs A1(II) into Ctrl-S? Any limitations anyone has become aware of with Sony machines (say CDP-XE530, MDS-JE530, MDS-JE770 for instance?!). Thanks for any insight!
  23. Jonas, this looks promising. Are you able to share your code? (Sorry if I’ve missed this above!) Kevin
  24. Thanks! More to help others who might want to do the same. I wish I had better metal working tools (and skills!) It turned out I didn’t have any needle files when I came to square off the hole! Doh.
  25. Motivated by the thread on MDS-JE470 optical output mod I thought I'd try similar with my 440, since it uses the same main board from the 640 and thus has all of the component pad-out and traces in place and just needs the components populating and a hole putting in the back panel. At risk of duplicating an oft-discussed topic, here is mine where I've use surface mount components that fit the existing pads. Parts list: (1) IC661: Cliff FCR684205T (OTJ-5) (currently available new in the UK from CPC for £1.36) (2) L661: 10uH 1210 SMD inductor (in my case I used Bourns CM322522-100K SMD Inductor) (3) C661: 100nF (0.1uF) 0805 ceramic chip capacitor (I used 0805 but the pads might actually be 0603 size) (I used these). 100nF is very common but don't stress it, anything from about 33nF up to 220nF will do if that's what you can get. (4) C662: 4.7uF electrolytic capacitor (through-hole) - just from my components box. This is a polarised component, so needs to be inserted into the PCB the correct way around (negative stripe near to IC661, see photos) (Use one that's 10V rated or above, it's on a 3.3V rail so you don't need to use a 50V device as on Sony's schematic). Likewise any part 4.7uF up to 22uF or so will be fine. The PCB is padded with a fairly wide via spacing, so pretty much any sensible electrolytic will fit. (5) Suitable labeller tapes - when these arrive I will label this socket similar to the factory-fit ones. You will need a very fine soldering iron tip, some fine solder and some tweezers to mount the SMD parts. You will also need some solder wick (or a solder sucker) to remove the solder which is already reflowed into the holes for the two through-hole components: the 4.7uF cap and the optical transmitter. The hole in the back panel is around 10mm square for the main part and a 3.5mm hole for the screw. Sorry this 440 looks so tatty - it was bought "cosmetically challenged" as spares-repairs [I think for a tenner], but since I have it working, I might as well use it as my "experimentation machine"! (In the photos, the 8mm hole you can see in the back panel is my next project when I source all of the components - to try and add Control-A1(II) to this 440. I might fail at this as somehow I might have to convince the machine firmware it's a 640, because it knows it's a 440 at the moment).
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