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kgallen

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Everything posted by kgallen

  1. Yea I’m the same with my MZ-R700 that I use at work. Although I did try the recipe on another machine (maybe a N505) and it worked fine.
  2. Enables features found in the higher models: https://www.minidisc.org/mzr700_to_mzr900.html
  3. A while back I did a trawl of the Service Manuals for this sort of data. Uploaded here: https://www.minidisc.wiki/_media/resources/sony_md_part_data.pdf
  4. I was just thinking about this... you must have bought a different drive to me. The MDM-7X2A has a 27 pin ribbon and then a 17 pin ribbon. The MDM-7SC, like the "normal" Type-R/MDLP MDM-7A has a 23 pin ribbon on that second connector. So the MDM-7X2A I bought wouldn't fit (electrically) into an MDS-E10...
  5. Since minidisc machines were sold around the world, often the mains transformer used has all of the primary taps required for all regions and the selection of input voltage is made either by a switch on the back (not common due to cost) or links on the PSU circuit board. You might find that a simple link mod in your (mid- to high-) machines can change them from 100V to 120V (or 230V). However it's also possible that for the low-end machines or high volume machines they used a custom transformer for the region to minimise costs. Service Manual and/or PCB inspection required! Nice to have you back @sfbp🙂
  6. I wonder if it’s like MD. On MD there is a pits section on the lead in that is read first to determine the MD type and calibrate laser power. Maybe SACD has something similar. But I have no clue…!
  7. Sounds like laser temperature… making it drift out of cal.
  8. Foreign territory for me - can’t correlate drive to the ATRAC version! 🤣
  9. Got the 790 from Elektrotanya (but that is on pc, typing this on phone, so can’t link!). Found it straight away with G search though. First tricky question - I bet you’ve only got hybrid SACD not an SACD-only disc…
  10. @BearBoy Happy to look if there is a SM. (Just downloading from Elektrotanya…)
  11. I would be looking for a laser recalibration in the service menu if there is an automatic one not requiring an LPM etc. Laser diode performance is very temperature dependent. I suspect reading the SACD layer is a different laser power setting (and focus) to reading the CD layer. The SACD is a ‘buried layer’. You will probably need to let it cool down to room temperature first. I know nothing about SACD players but as it’s a Sony I suspect it has some service menus similar to MD …
  12. Regardless of the line voltage the internal supplies to the electronics are low voltage and regulated. Excessive ac line voltage (say a 100V machine on 120V) will cause additional heating in the power transformer and additional power dissipation in the linear regulators because their input voltage is higher but their output voltage is fixed. Power dissipation is voltage drop times current. However the internal electronics are running on regulated rails, the main ones being 3.3V and 5V plus something like +/-8V for the analogue. So their power dissipation won’t be any different.
  13. Are you after any part in particular @BearBoy or just a drop-in spare drive for the future? I'm wondering if in a year or so people will get bored of their ‘new’ machines and start flogging them off again. Prices are sky-high on eBay-UK at the moment though. I’m glad I got the machines I need (thinking of my E12 machines I use for shows) when prices weren’t stupid like this!
  14. I’ve ordered another 🤦‍♂️ I need a laser for one of my E12 and a laser alone is more than £60 delivered (Ali Express and eBay) so I thought a whole drive will give me lots of spare parts and in theory a guaranteed working laser and OWH (based on Techmoan’s experience with his SACD of just buying the laser). If this one arrives intact then maybe I’ll use that in the D4 and strip the one I have for parts. This time it will be a laser change as the E12 has the MDM-7SC drive… Will keep you updated…
  15. Here are the listings for various MD drives I can see on Ali Express, not necessarily as described as discussed above. The first is the one I ordered. Clearly some of the other listings are not what they say if the photos are correct. £74.21 | Original new KMS-262A KMS-262B KMS-262E KMS-261A KMS-261E KMS261A KMS-261 KMS261E KMS261 Laser lens for SONY MD https://a.aliexpress.com/_mq1LdVy I don’t believe this is really an MDM-7S2A: £77.64 | Brand new and original MDM-7S2A MDM7S2A KMS-262A KMS262A md laser lens for MDS-JE480 MDM-7S2A player https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Qg9KO £78.18 | Original new MDM-5A completely mechanism for MDS JE500 - MDS JE510 - MDS JB920 MD player https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNukII2 From the pictures this looks like an MDM-5A (ATRAC1 4.5), it’s definitely not an MDM-7 series because they aren’t all metal (even in Pro decks): £93.44 | Original new KMS-260A KMS-260E KMS260A KMS-260 KMS260E KMS260 Laser lens for MDSJE480 SONY MD https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN7Ii50 Possible legit laser plus OWH? £50.43 | Original new KMS-262E KMS-262 MD Laser lens with Recording head https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL7XRPs
  16. Be careful. There is a seller claiming to have drives for a 480 but you can just see the paper label says X2AS plus the EMC shield and 90MHz crystal so it’s an MDM-7X2A (Type R/MDLP) as I bought, not a Type S. As you say you need an MDM-7S1A drive.
  17. Nice. I think the 930 is the smartest 🙂
  18. I've not done a huge amount with it to be honest. Been too busy at work, fixing that D4 and building the set for the next show! As you know I have lots of machines with similar capabilities, but I wanted a higher spec machine for the main 'hifi' stack.
  19. That looks like a combination of a desk tripod, a desk (or pipe) clamp plus the Sennheiser mic adaptor. Have a hunt on Thomann, but I think you’re looking for a number of separate parts rather than that unit as one. Manfrotto do some interesting mic stands and arms but I think you're looking at a number of items that screw together to make that combination. However I'm not so keen on the way that MD portable is clamped, looks like a recipe for a broken machine. The concept though I can see working just with a different choice of desk clamp part that holds the MD machine. Where did that photo come from? Is there any other info from that source?
  20. All right I'll cut to the chase. It's only that I was typing my initial story on my phone and it was late that it became this nonsense serial thing! So I rebuilt that clip on the back. Of course because I didn't have the upper disc sled in place, it broke straight off when I tried to fit the top. So I did the reverse and fit the top then fit the new clip structure I made around it and reglued to the main plastic body. Left it to dry for a couple of days. If I need to replace the belt again, I'll need to use @M1JWR's method and go fishing through the front (since I usually lift the bonnet [hood for you Yanks]) and fit the belt from the top. Initially I couldn't record a whole album, I got a Record Error after a while. Investigating, the laser sled got stuck at mid and wouldn't traverse to the outer edge. Even winding the gears manually I couldn't get beyond mid. I greased the sled rail and that didn't help. I worked it a bit manually and eventually it started moving ok. My concern was there was some of the broken clip stuck inside the mech, but I couldn't see anything and I couldn't get anything to drop out. I'm certainly not going to try and separate the BD board from the rest of the drive. But I do need to keep an eye on this in case there is something in there that has just happened to move out of the way temporarily. In the machine (geez it stinks!), now it's working perfectly. I've dubbed much of a CD album and it seems to work fine in both Normal (1x) and High Speed modes (2x MDLP, 4x SP) so it seems pukka. Service Mode settings seem consistent - Iop Compare reports 0% OK which is the first time I've seen that so it suggests the OP is indeed unused, and the OP rec and play times are consistent with the number of minutes I've played with it. Conclusions: - I suspect I got mostly lucky with what I received. It was pictured as an MDM-7X2A which is what I needed and to my surprise is what I got. OK it was a bit broken and this is down to the seller not inspecting before shipping. Maybe the've just got a box full from some end-of-run sell-off from the Sony factory when they ceased production (these machines were made in Malaysia rather than Japan). That there were some bits of the clips not inside the (Sony?) bag means it was broken before it was shipped. Maybe the side peg was broken during shipment because the rear clip was broken so the disc tray was flapping around on it's way across the globe. - It doesn't make any financial sense. I paid £70 for the broken MXD-D4 and the drive cost £84 delivered. The machine is probably worth £75 on a good day on eBay (It's a decent machine with CD+MD so they should be worth a bit more to my mind). There's one on there now at 70 quid spares/repairs. No I'm not... - However if you have a beloved machine and you need a new drive, maybe there is light in that you may well be able to get a NOS drive for it. Just remember to replace the load/eject belt straight away! Other things I needed to do. - Needed a new 27-way FFC cable. The one in the machine was damaged at the end, possibly me inserting and withdrawing repeatedly. The replacement wasn't the quality of the Sony original. Comparing side-by-side the Sony one is definately a more substantial construction. However the replacement one, which is probably standard part fodder these days, is working fine, it's just a bit more flimsy so probably won't tolerate much in-and-out like the Sony originals do. - I needed to strip apart and clean the headphone volume potentiometer because it had a drop-out mid-travel and was a bit rough at the ends. I couldn't find new the correct Alps part - looks like a Sony special [*]. So ended up stripping it down and using some Deoxit Fader F5 to clean it. Rebuilt and reassebled and is working fine now. - The CD mech is a little noisy, but I've added some Molykote grease to a few gears and it's less noisy now. - Oh and I renewed the power flex and fitted a new plug. I might use this unit to play with my SPDIF/TOSLINK project before I inflict it on great fellow enthusiasts @BearBoy , @M1JWR , @sfbp. [*] The volume control is an Alps RK09L series. However the one in the machine is 1kOhm and because the PCB is mounted vertically, the spindle flat is at 10 o'clock and also the flat section is full length of the spindle. Alps standard parts start at 10kOhm and the spindle flat is at 2 o'clock for horizontal PCBs and isn't the full length of the spindle. (sorry for the shonky photos)
  21. I'm intrigued about the actual drive that was advertised and you received. The E10 takes the MDM-7SC variant. In this story I bought an MDM-7X2A. What did you get (if you know how to identify them)? If it's an MDM-7X2A are you saying it actually works ok in an E10? It's quite possible it will as it is a good match as Type-R/ATRAC3 using CXD2662. But I'm interested if the "high speed"-ness of the 7X2A has any side effects in the E10. Maybe not as probably it's only switched in to do 4X CD dubs, which the E10 obviously doesn't have as a stand-alone MD deck. In addition as the E10 will ignore SCMS on a record - and on the E10 PRO model allows you to set the recorded SCMS bits - I'm assuming neither of these work unless you actually got an MDM-7SC drive. From PCB photos alone it's not possible to determine a 7SC versus other MDM-7 variants unless you can see the sticker that usually has "SC" somewhere on it. I would say the MDM-7X2A I got was NOS. In the machine it reports 15minutes of OP time, which would be consistent with the amount of testing I've done with it. I realise that the odo counters can be reset but I don't think the seller is that knowledgable (since I'm pretty sure they don't actually know what they are selling, although clearly they realise they have considerable value based on the price I paid...). Darn, I'm leaking my soap-opera story...
  22. Cool! I like the break down and optical component demonstrations. Very illuminating! His questions on the photodiode receiver array can be answered by reading the minidisc technical doc on minidisc.org (but I can’t tell him that as I don’t have a login on that site). https://www.minidisc.org/manuals/minidisc_training.pdf
  23. Yea, I’m probably not tough enough with these sellers! They are clearly NOS (at best) not truly new. Anyway in my case, out came the Araldite and some plastic parts cut from some old electronics… rebuild a new rear clip…
  24. So I picked up the box from the post office. Right sort of size. Customs Description ‘Car CD Player’. Go to work… Get home and unwrap it. Very well packed. And it is indeed an MD drive, and the right one. It looks new and it looks Sony. But there are some ‘extra’ bits. The sort of bits that should be attached. Plastic bits. And they aren’t all there. The bits that are broken are the clip at the rear and one of the side pegs that runs in the vertical guide channel. So do I just bounce it to Ali Express and start again? I guess I should have. But does it even work? How likely is that. Fit it into the MXD-D4 and support the wobbly bits. Insert a disc and immediately realise my error in the rush. The load belt is perished. The disc is in but it’s not coming out. Turn on. By some miracle it reads the disc and will play. 😃 (at this point I’m regretting starting this on my phone!) …to be continued… (not really sure why I’m writing this story like this, sorry!)
  25. It arrived a few days ago. The plot thickens…
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