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Everything posted by kgallen

  1. Hi Petter, What is the problem you're trying to solve? What do you mean by a "new CPU". Which processor in the device are you actually after? There will be a microcontroller on the main board (usually some Mitsubishi embedded control processor) but in the audio chain, the ATRAC processor (the CXD2664 in the case of the 980) is on the PCB that is part of the drive unit - the way to "replace" this processor is to replace the drive with one from another machine. Neither chip in of themselves will be user-replaceable even if they could be sourced, because specialised equipment will be required. Also the control CPU will have firmware programmed in to it. If you bought a new one it would be blank and I don't know where you would source the firmware image from and again you would require programming equipment specific to this processor. Ergo, unless I'm misunderstanding your intentions, replacing "the CPU" is not really a practical proposition unless you swap the PCB on which it is mounted.
  2. I just watched your videos (thanks!). I'm still tempted to think that disc detection microswitch is not happy. Did you replace the switch or "rectify" the activation pressure on the switch? I think I'd look at that switch again as otherwise your machine looks happy. (Although on first watching I thought the load was a bit sluggish but it does at least look smooth).
  3. (Replied on Tapeheads - any one else fancy a bash at this one?)
  4. Mike Lindup Changes2 CD just arrived in the post, so a little SP dub job for my MXD-D4 today… …yes I am sad and try to match the MD colour to the album artwork! https://mikelindup-official.bandcamp.com/album/changes-2
  5. We’ll that’s it. With gay abandon I’ve thrown caution and OCD to the wind. I actually opened one of my new MDW80T. Just went right out and ripped off the plastic. You don’t know how hard that was. I’ll go to almost any lengths to not open a brand new-new disc. No I don’t know why either. I just didn’t have another new Sony 80 to open and I didn’t want to use a pre-used one. Well I just bought a couple of new-unopened Kraftwerk CDs and I just wanted a Sony 80 minuter to put two of them on in SP. So that’s it, I’ve broke by karma. I’ll be ripping them open now like there’s no tomorrow.
  6. You don't need to put a disc in the machine. Just turn it on and hit RECORD then it goes into "monitor" mode. If you have the input selected as "Analog" then the display will show "AD - DA" (if the input is coax or optical, then it will say "- DA"). ATRAC conversion only relates to data going to the disc. If you're using the machine like this as an ADC, then the digital out is just a straight conversion of the analogue in. Conversely you can use it as a DAC with headphone amplifier (like I do with mine, attached to a PC), select Coax or Optical and hit RECORD, the display will show "- DA". Good luck!
  7. It does now! I think I ran out of characters in that field, so had to prune some info! Believe me, @BearBoy, you are fully implicated (one way or another!) in the 940 and 770 purchases let me tell you! 🤣 940 was from @M1JWR last year and 770 was part of that Control-A1 investigation "we" were doing, probably around lockdown... Nothing new MD-wise in recent times other than maybe a batch of used disks a few months back... (still resisting breaking into many of those new-new ones, how about you?!)
  8. I'd say my 520 requires a *tiny* bit more force than the 940 or 770 to trigger the grab-and-pull but there's very little in it. Whilst the MDM7 uses a belt to actually do the moving, I suspect the "trigger pressure" of pressing the disc into the mech to get it to activate has a lot of similarities in both mechs. I guess on the MDM3/MDM5 you might just come up against the resistance of the gear train in the case of those mechs. Do a bunch of disc inserts/ejects to get the mech moving again and see how you get on. Don't have anything earlier than my 520 to try (otherwise which deck would you like me to try? 🤣)
  9. Yea I had a read through the manual and I couldn’t find Tape Monitor or similar function.
  10. Welcome back! You might want to consider this thread if you’re needing lots of new (new) minidiscs (discs) 🙂
  11. Yes but you’ve got to add gain somewhere. If you can’t do it at the source you’ll have to do it at the MD. The intrinsic noise and relatively limited fidelity of the FM transmitter will absolutely swamp any noise you’ll add at the MD with +8dB. ^^^^ wot the boss says. Enjoy your radio broadcasts and your MD, you’re in good hands.
  12. Does the tuner sound quiet through the speakers on the amp too at your usual volume knob setting, compared to your other sources (CD/tape/vinyl)? It's fairly common for me to need to add some gain at the MD end and it's not uncommon to need +6dB or more, although usually I'm using coax or optical input.
  13. If you’ve got a technician that understands MD decks, otherwise I fear you will get a machine that is more broken than now. Forums like this have numerous stories along these lines. If your tech knows stuff in this field, go for it. If not, and you’re not the type to ‘tinker’ then I’d put your money towards sourcing another machine instead.
  14. You will need a decent iron (25W or more) and some decent solder wick as there is a lot of old solder to remove which will suck away heat from the iron. When you solder the new switch make sure to get the joint hot to avoid a dry joint and ensure to get the switch square as the holes in the PCB will be big to take the solder tag contacts on the switch. It’s easy enough but as with anything you need the right kit and technique!
  15. Hi @bluecrab The switches have arrived and they look perfect. Do you want me to send you one (FOC)?
  16. Hey, watcha sayin’ ????? 😡🤣
  17. There are the following screws in assembly order (looking from front where required): 2 domed screws that hold the switch PCB to the front panel metalwork 1 domed screw (left) and 1 countersunk screw (right) that holds the front PCB into the front plastic 4 domed screws (2 each side) that hold the front panel assembly into the case lower metalwork 4 countersunk screws that from the underside hold the front panel to the lower case the lid screws, 2 each side plus 2 (I think) across the front and 1 in the rear This was from memory so I hope I got them all!
  18. Not familiar - family photo when you've had a play!
  19. I tried to take some better photos of the markings on top of the switch for future reference. There are no markings on the sides of my switch but are seen on some examples on the internet. Note: The Sony part number is stamped in this example. I don’t believe it’s a custom part though. We’ll see when the ones I’ve ordered come in and I can compare.
  20. @bluecrab I've just grabbed a few of those switches from that UK seller. When they arrive, if they look identical to the one in my machine, I'm quite happy to post one over to you if you fancy the repair job. Even if you don't, with the part you should be able to find someone who can do the repair for you, it's not a big job to extract the front panel from the machine and get access to the switch PCB - because that's what I did to take my photos above. If you source locally, try and make sure it's a genuine Alps part. I found some suppliers in China but on closer inspection it was an unbranded part. As this is a switch on the mains supply, I wouldn't advise a "knock-off" part as you don't know the quality of the construction. The E10 doesn't have an earth connection (it's "double insulated"), so you don't want a poor quality switch here as it's in a metal body and screwed to a metal chassis in the machine... If nothing else, I could just send you the spring... 🙂
  21. US but not threaded: https://www.iccfl.com/product_info.php?products_id=23621
  22. Switch only Sony part number 1-572-267-21 (Ref Des S901 on the schematics). But it's made by Alps, model SDL1P-A TV-5 (although mine is marked TV-3). Searching around it seems a "common" type of switch for TVs, amplifiers, that sort of equipment. Simple soldering job, only 2 terminals. Here's one, UK only though, but seems like a standard part can be had with threaded holes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153884727081?hash=item23d43e9729:g:uygAAOSw4iJehODb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwHXDYgnppPiEI0xQNNYJiYpNXnCNe8BCn8nylFzfGHRWCkWAyWScnMSlEkOVZisfodriInwZcJ9PV6fCyCY8lAqRPRFf37sFJz%2FT95i21M%2Bo%2BR8%2FGC8xe%2BjH7nNwqmd%2Fdu4fMCOvQes4vhRc2pKxwfumhcx5MiOYDc9SuEqmL9dRThxGlpvTwl9jkT4jTMTnzzxue4u7yHwwbQnid03YG0pdRigqcMgGOX6UIOKbmXvjWQg5JsET3L7E984zDdKg%2BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9yi2ZTwYQ
  23. Some piccys. Click to get bigger version. Out (off): (Latched) In (on): Markings, overall PCB, schematic:
  24. I will attempt to photo one of mine shortly to see if the spring is external and you might be able to substitute something similar. Let me see what I can find out…
  25. It’s just a standard on/off slide switch and if I remember correctly it’s mounted directly behind the front panel, not actuated by a push-bar. So the actually ‘mechanism’ is part of the switch which will have a latching cam arrangement and a spring to put tension in the operation. Not unlike a click on/off biro type pen. From your description of the symptoms it sounds like the spring is missing, but as it will be mounted around the actuator stem I can’t see how it would ‘just go missing’.
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