MDX-400

I did a search for your posts and found it in an instant. A moderator must have moved it to "Technical Support" which appears to be the correct action and forum to post that in. BTW You only had 3 posts total so it was very easy to find your post. There are several ways to find your own posts on the forum. One, if you are signed in, is to simply click on the "View my posts" option at the top of the screen on the main forum index page. The other two you can do even if you are not signed in. You can click on your "profile" button and then click on "Find all posts from this user" or you can just click on the forum "Search" option and then fill in your username in the right hand box and search away. Note that depending on the method you use the results will be displayed differently so experiment and see which one you like best.

This cannot be done, sorry. The person you asked either lied about it or didn't know what they were talking about. MD has no ability to store files, nevermind the ability to playback MP3 files. Everything on an audio/standard MD is stored as audio tracks either in ATRAC (SP) or ATRAC3 (LP2/4). Also mind the double, actually triple posting--don't do it please. Also the sustained use of the caps lock is also considered poor 'Net etiquette to say the least.

TOC cloning, unfortunately, cannot be performed on every MD recorder. Only certain models are TOC cloning capable and nearly all of them are decks. I do not think there are many, if any, portables capable of TOC cloning...

Service mode is normally exited by simply removing all power sources from the unit. I.e. remove the battery and take it off the charge stand and/or disconnect the AC adapter. If the unit fails to come out of service mode that usually indicates a problem. This usually will only occur if the manual laser adjustment procedure has been entered and not completed. This can be done by pressing random buttons while in service mode while not knowing the consequences... However completing the manual adjustment/calibration is pretty much something that requires a technician/repair shop to do--it requires some dissasembly of the unit, special equipment/tools as well as the know-how to perform. The unit may have also gotten stuck in this mode due to another general malfunction or failure, such as if the NVRAM or EEPROM (whaever the units use to store the calibration settings) were somehow erased or some other electronic problem occured in the unit. It's strange that this has happened to you though, we've had a few more reports of the same things happening to other people's units. I have no idea how this is happening but let's just hope it doesn't become any more common than it is! Unfortunately if your unit isn't working after removing the battery/AC adapter then you're either in for a visit to the shop or a new unit

You are correct. The firmware version is not user-upgradeable and Sony will not release the upgrade firmware and software to the general public. The firmware is, however, upgradeable on most NetMD units. The service manuals point out the procedure for updating the firmware. It is done with special Sony software only available to technicians and is performed over the USB cable. As for the differences, well one person's guess is as good as anothers... Since the firmware updates aren't made publicly available, whatever changes were made in each version is also not available. Furthermore some products, even where the firmware is available publicly they still don't tell you what the differences are! LOL.

Greetings MDCP Forums users... I've noticed that we have two forums that seem a little similar at first but are actually different. Being one of your co-mods for these forums, I'd like to take a moment to make a distinction between them. These forums are: "Technical Support", and; "Technical Topics" At first glance one might think these forums are redundant wrt one another but they aren't--they are different and the intent is to have different topics/threads posted in each. To illustrate the differences I'll try my best, with some examples... Technical Support is for topics like "My N1 stopped working..."; or "My unit won't record"; or "I get an error message when I press record"; or other such subjects. It should be for specific questions related to problems with units--advice seeking for possible solutions/help with such problems. In other words, Tech Support is a forum to both request support from other users and also to share your knowledge/support idea with those seeking help with their equipment. Techical Topics on the other hand should be more topics like: "what difference is there in a 2mW amp and a 5mW amp?"; or "What does Type-R/Type-S do?"; "What are the advantages of an Auvi/Digital Amp unit?"; or "How does G-Protection work"; or "How can Hi-MD store so much on the same size disc as original MD"; etc. So Tech Topics is a place to discuss topic of a technical nature mainly regarding MD and related technology/equipment. If the above is still unclear, I find a simple way to determine the difference is to ask yourself a few quick questions before posting... If you can answer YES to one of the following, then you should probably be posting in Technical Support. 1. I'm having a [fill in the blank] problem with my [insert model number here] unit and I need help fixing it! 2. I need help finding the user manual/service manual for my unit. 3. I don't know how to use a particular feature on my unit or I'm having trouble with it or I don't think it is working properly. If you can answer YES to one of these, you should probably be posting in Technical Topics 1. I was wondering how a certain feature like [insert feature name/term/concept/idea here] works. I.e. If you're wondering how/why a certain technology works or would like to make a comment on it, then Tech Topics is the place to do it. 2. I have an idea for, or need help with a hardware or softwar construction project for MD units. 3. I have a question regarding MD electronics technology in general (something that isn't specific to a probem you are having and likely pertains to several/many MD units). The above lists are just a quick guide and are by no means exhaustive. I.e. Just because you answered no to all of the first three items doesn't necessarily mean you shouldn't be posting in Technical Support--it's just a guideline so you get the gist of what I mean here. Please use your good judgement in determining the correct technical forum to post in. Also note that if you happened to have posted something in one forum and you don't see it there anymore, it may have moved to the appropriate forum (courtesy of a moderator ). This goes for all forums, by the way.

LOL, jokes... :laugh: I didn't mean to insult you by that, really I didn't I was just confused as to what method you were actually using to do the timer-record... See the above doesn't sound right to me. It sounds like there is a problem with the unit itself--I mean nothing should go dead once unplugged like that. I mean what if you simply wanted to move the deck or had to unplug it for some reason. You have to wait 24hours before you can use it again? That's ridiculous. And to me it sounds like a problem with the unit... That is until I read... You might be right--I wonder if they never actually tried it, LOL. Or what it could be is that both your decks have a problem that has been addressed by a TSB or firmware upgrade (fixable/upgradeable by Sony) regarding the problem. Are the serial numbers of the two decks close? If so then it may be something like that. Try calling Sony's tech support and see if there are any known problems with certain batches of the JA333ES. However, I would say that calling Sony is a little iffy--you've got a right-hand-doesn't-know-what-the-left-is-doing situation with Sony . But if you're willing/able to go without one of the decks for around a month, I'd say send one into a Sony factory repair facility (assuming they are still under warranty I mean) along with a detailed description of the problem. They may already have a TSB/fix for it and it may get repaired and returned to you and work properly thereafter, or they might figure out something if they somehow have never come across the problem before. If they can repair the first, you can then send in the second and get it fixed... BTW: Most ppl here would consider themselves lucky to have just one JA333ES--you have TWO! Very nice deck indeed (other than that timer problem that is)...

Yeah as a general rule it seems that Eggos simply destroy "Street Style" (the ones with the "G" in the latter part of the model number) headphones... I've had little experience with the Street Styles and they aren't anything great. Haven't actually used a pair of Eggos but from what everyone says about them, the Street Styles aren't even a comparison. Street Styles are simply terrible...

Well yes and no. There are two ways to charge a battery but that doesn't mean those two ways are available with every unit. Any given unit will EITHER allow for charging INSIDE the unit (i.e. while the battery is installed) and connected to AC, OR it will come with a separate charger to put the battery in and plug into the wall. Players usually fall into the second category, though not always; on the other hand recorders are almost always in the former category. Regardless, however, you can charge a gumstick in any unit that has gumstick recharging capability; you can also charge any gumstick in any plug-in gumstick charger. Voltage is more what we are looking at but yes. There are chargers meant for NA (North American) voltage of 110-120V. The BC-9HU2 is one of these. However unless you have a Sony player that came with it, it won't be easy to get. On the other hand there is the slower, but universal voltage (can be used in virtually any country), BC-7HT charger. This one is available but isn't that cheap really. If your unit charges in-unit then the AC adapter is of importance--it will likely say 100V AC input. If your unit uses an external charger that plugs into the wall then look at that charger, on the back it will likely say 100V AC. In either case you can buy a 120V-to-100V step-down as I mentioned. Plug that in the wall and then plug the AC adapter (or external charger) that came with the MJ15 into the step-down converter and off you go. Actually if its 100V AC input you *can* just plug it in but note the warnings in my post above may be the consequences. It works in most cases but will likely shorten the useful life of the battery (# of charge cycles). Hope that clears it up!

Also note the JE530 was SP only IIRC. That means though you can playback recordings made on NetMD only in the isolated case that you use the "fake" SP mode to make the recording. Most NetMD recordings are done in LP2/LP4 (as the SP mode of NetMD isn't really SP and you don't get better quality than LP2). MDLP tracks, made with NetMD or not, will not be playable on the JE530.

Are you certain the switch marked "timer" beneath the power switch and IR window is in the REC position (or PLAY position if you're trying to timer-play instead of record)??? If it is and the deck does not work accordingly when disconnected/reconnected to AC power, I'm almost certain it isn't a "design flaw" but more a case of a defect within your particular unit. The fact that you seem to say it went "dead" for a while reinforces my belief that you have a defective unit. Likely you are still in the 5yr warranty period, correct? I'd send it in for a repair if you are certain it isn't working with the switch in the correct position and it isn't working right. The procedure for a timer-rec should be to flip the switch to REC and turn the unit OFF (into Standby). Then disconnect the power from the AC outlet (done with a timer or your X10, or whatever). Then reconnect it at the time of the recording start (by making your X10 or timer or whatever turn on). The deck should immediately power up, read the disc and start recording. If it does not there is a problem I think. (Check the manual for complete details to be sure.) If you're using some other method to try to get a recording, it isn't the correct way AFAIK, even on the older decks. But it may have worked for some reason on the older decks but not on this one. Make sure to follow the above procedure (or that outlined in the manual) and see what happens.

Are you kidding? Sony Stores are WORSE than Futile Shop and Best Lie! Also it all depends. If you do things right and avoid excess charges, even smaller items you'll end up ahead. But it all depends. For some it isn't worth the trouble and/or paying the extra money for it is worth it (especially due to warranty issues). On smaller/lower cost items I can see ppl still buying here... But Larger items? Well lets just say that maybe 60-80% of electronics out there? The US *MSRP* is less than the Canadian DEALER *COST*! (Yes even after the exchange is calculated.) And as we all know no one sells/buys at MSRP meaning that ppl in the US are paying hundreds less than the dealer pays for them here. Its crazy... Walk into Futile Shop and take a look at an H/K receiver. For the price they are selling one at it is very likely I could get TWO of them and sell them both for that price and still make money! That is how bad it is. Literally ppl in the US are paying HALF what we do for stuff like this, in lots of cases. Anyhow, trust me. The money I've saved over the last couple years compared to buying in Canada? Lets just say it's well into the thousands... I feel somewhat bad because I'm putting some $$$ outside the country, but c'mon if somebody is paying $600 US (after taxes and shipping) for something in the States, why in the world do I have to pay nearly $2000 CDN plus taxes for the exact same item? And why do I have to twist a Canadian dealer's arm just to get him to go that "low", when US e-tailers are constantly competing and pricematching each other with lower and lower prices everyday? Sony Store? Futile Shop? Insert Cdn. retailer here? No thanks! (It isn't really the fault of the retailers, I understand that; but whatever I'm not going to pass up paying half what I could be just because...)

The problem is that a PC will NEVER output track marks through the S/PDIF stream because (in my experience) there is no consumer-level PC sound card or device (*with the exception of the Xitel DG2) that can output track marks over the digital connection. PCs also use 14-bit S/PDIF which is somewhat odd, but may be responsible for the missing subcode/track mark data. The DG2 does not actually allow for the PC to pass track marks, rather it actually makes track marks itself where appropriate. (It is a hardware feature.) Still, it doesn't work correctly 100% of the time (though it is better than nothing) and it won't work with the latest version of WInAmp or with WMP 9. It works with them but the discrete mode does not. You have to use either the previous version of WinAmp or WMP 8 or earlier to get discrete mode to work with the DG2. Or you can use MusicMatch Jukebox or something like that. As for DVD players--that's a tricky one too. Not all DVD players output S/PDIF from CDs properly either (pretty much every CD player with digital output WILL) but DVD players are different, unfortunately. Its usually caused by the processing inside the player that changes the internal sampling/resolution of the CD data or handles it in a manner unlike a CD player would... I.e. It doesn't stream the "pure" CD data out the S/PDIF output on the player. Usually you can rely on companies like Sony, Panasonic, etc. to get it right and have a proper digital output for CDs from a DVD player, but many other manufacturers (mainly the "off brands") won't do this. I've even come across a Philips DVD player that didn't do track marks properly, and they invented the CD! For shame! lol... Anyway that is the story with DVD players.

Indeed! Definitely a radio-enabled unit. Looks like Sony changed their mind on this one. They added the much needed "D" designation (that was absent before) and the appropriate "F" designation along with the addition of the tuner-remote. Such ashame that it is a downloader-only, especially being a non-Hi-MD unit...

Looks like a thread for "Tips/Tricks" instead of Tech Support--moving to appropriate forum!

I think you *may* be getting a little confused with ATRAC types (it isn't your fault really, more the fault of Sony's way of marketing them)... ATRAC Type-S incorporates ATRAC Type-R and adds another enhancement for ATRAC3 (different from ATRAC 3.0 which is just a previous revision of ATRAC and has nothing to do with ATRAC3). The enhancement for ATRAC3 (MDLP) is for playback of ATRAC3/MDLP tracks alone. That is "Type-S" is only effective during playback of LP2 or LP4 tracks. Therefore you'd only get the enhancement when playing back MDLP tracks on a unit with Type-S (like the D400). ATRAC Type-R is really ATRAC[1] version 5.0. This affects the recording and playback of SP tracks (it has no relevance to ATRAC3 & MDLP). The quality of SP recordings is heavily dependant on the ATRAC revision. Type-R being the best you can get. When you record at high-speed in ANY Sony deck/unit that allows it, the recording ATRAC will revert to a previous version. So for a Type-R enabled deck like yours the recording will be done in ATRAC 4.5 on a high-speed recording, not ATRAC Type-R (which would be used on a realtime recording). However, the difference between the 4.5 and Type-R is really not very audible. From my experience it seems the high frequencies are very *slightly* better sounding on a Type-R recording vs. a 4.5. But you may be getting other factors coming in such as the ability of the CD drive to read CDs at high speed (especially with scratched/damaged CDs) as well as the way in which the remainder of the decks circuitry handles the digital audio at high speed. I don't think you should hear much difference, but you may... If so you may want to stick to realtime recordings. As for any differences in ATRAC3 recordings (MDLP) at higher speeds, I don't know that there should be any difference as ATRAC3 is always encoded to the same standard, I believe. Any differences here in recording quality might point out to other shortcomings of the deck at highspeed, like those noted above. Finally as for the differences being heard through your home audio setup but not through the portable + headphones, this may be dependant on the headphones you're using. I would think it would usually be the other way around, but the case may be that your home setup outdoes your portable/headphones combo to the degree where you start to hear the sonic differences with LP2.

Yeah if you're going to buy any current MD portable (meaning the upcoming Hi-MD units ) you will likely want to buy one in the US. You are definitely going to save money compared to buying in Canada, trust me. Especially if you get a deal on eBay or a good online retailer in the US (J&R usually has good prices )... But like Chris said above, I'm sure the Canada release will be at least somewhat co-ordinated with that of the US. If you want to pay the high Canadian prices at your local Best Lie or Futile Shop, etc. then you'll probably be able to do so around the same time our friends to the south get them (though they'll more than likely be paying less at their US retailers, lol).

Sounds like the internal EEPROM (or NVRAM or whatever holds the settings for the pickup adjustment) is somehow getting deleted. Sounds like some kind of malfunction with the EEPROM or with some power circuits in the unit getting abrupt cut-off or surges somehow. I highly doubt this is caused by any kind of user error... If the problem is recurring that is unfortunate--sounds like something is faulty in the unit that probably should have been replaced/repaired instead of simply re-calibrating the unit and sending it back to the owner. If these units are still under warranty, I'd say to send them back and note that the problem is or could be something that recurrs after a short time. If you guys are out of warranty, I'd say just forget about them (they'll probably cost too much in both money and headache to have them repaired and then loose adjustment again) It's sad/unfortunate but unless you're in the warranty period I'd say to just move on to a newer unit...

I don't know what the PCLK-U5 is but the MN20 is for decks only--it is NOT for portable recorders, AFAIK. Your best bet is to simply get a Xitel DG2 USB to Optical Digital Output adapter and use that--it's what they used to package with the "DPC" MD units before NetMD came out. You can get one for less than $30 US on eBay last I checked, anyway. Also using the DG2 will get you track marks without using "spacer" files, provided you use WMP 8 or earlier (Windows Media Player 9 will work but discrete mode will not work) or if you use the earlier version of WinAmp (not the latest version) or if you use MusicMatch Jukebox. You don't get any titling features with it though--that isn't really possible with anything unless you go the DIY route... I remember back in the day you could construct a cable that went from the remote-port section of a Sony portable to a PCs serial port. There was software from a couple of developers available as well to necessitate titling etc. Check out the "Hacking" section (on the minidisc.org main page) and the sub-section "MD Control Via Electrical Interface" and then the "For portables" subsection for more details on such a connection.

Sounds like you are in service mode. Dunno how you managed to get into it by simply changing the battery but you are definitely in Service mode somehow. To exit service mode you will need to remove ALL power sources (AC adapter and any batteries installed/connected to the unit) and then wait about a minute or so. Re-insert the battery or AC adapter and it *should* be out of service mode then and operate correctly. If it does not come out of service mode it usually means that the manual laser adjustment mode has been entered but not completed! If this occurs the unit will NOT exit service mode until the laser adjustment procedure has been completed. Problem with this is that you need special equipment to do the laser power adjustment and certain other adjustments may require dissassembly of the unit and the use of an oscillocope. This may also be caused by some other general malfunction--either of which would likely mean your unit needs professional service However, lets not fret right away. Try removing all power from the unit and then re-powering it and seeing what happens--usually everything will be back to normal.

Yeah I had a rant on this "feature" of Sony portables a while back, on the T-Board... Unfortunately it is just the way it is--you have to live with it, there's no way around it. Stupid? Yes. Annoying? Yes! Anything you can do about it? Unfortunately no. You just have to keep doing it each time you playback an MD. One way to shorten the process is if you have a stick remote with the "DISPLAY" button. (I think ALL LCD remotes have this button, but I'm not sure about non-LCD ones.) All you do is press the button once after you start playback and then it goes to the "1 REM" mode. You still have to press something but at least you don't have to go through the menu to do it...

As mentioned above it is probably better to use an external charger... However, does the MJ15 already use an external charger or does it charge the battery inside the unit? Is the rating on the AC adapter (or external charger) for 100V AC input? If so you can still charge the battery in there but I'd highly recommend a 120V to 100V step-down converter which can be purchased online for around $30 or so. If you continue to charge a battery using a 100V input AC adapter or charger you may shorten the life of the battery due to overvoltage or overcurrent during charging. Also it may not be good for the unit either (if we're talking about an AC adapter).

100% agreement and I think most other ppl are going to agree with you too, moltar, er I mean kurisu :rasp: . Anont I'm sure while you do have some reasons behind what you're saying, I think everyone is happier with the forum this way. Unregistered users are free to view posts and search (AFAIK)--they aren't prohibited from viewing messages and searching for info. Really one could browse the forums for a while before ever having something to say. When a person feels the need to say something, then they can register and do so and from there join in the community discussion about whatever... Plus registering takes all of 2 minutes and I don't even think anyone has to "approve" a membership you can start posting as soon as you get the confirmation email. And it doesn't cost you anything. I don't see where the problem is really. Staying anonymous isn't a problem, IMO. For one thing on this forum we don't require the use of real names nor is any real personal info required. For example, click on my profile and you can find out stuff about me--well pretty much nothing. Its limited to what I feel like putting in there and somethings, for me, is a waste of time (like hobbies and interests I don't even bother with that). It doesn't say my real name anywhere (which is actually Roland in case you were wondering) and I can't see anything too personal about it. (People only know my name is Roland because I often use it in posting. If I, or you, didn't want anyone to know your actual name you never have to use it--its really that simple). Even if personal info were required you could just make that up anyway if you really wanted. It really is much better like this. No ppl leaving a question here or there and never coming back for the answer or never bothering to thank anyone for info/help; no people forgetting to sign in and accidentally posting as a guest; no need to worry about who said what and who asked what, etc. I wouldn't worry too much about flaming and vendettas etc.; I've never really seen it get that bad on here or on most other forums I visit. Sure there are times when ppl might identify you as someone they don't particularly like or get along with (or you them) but that's just life really. Not everyone gets along unfortunately, but for the most part people are at least civil about it. Anyway just some thoughts about it. Trust me the forum is much better now with all the new changes, including the requirement to register.

Kristin, you have a good question there (unfortunately I'm not very familiar with mic recordings myself so I don't have an answer ); but I think you might get a better answer for this question in the Live Recording Forum so I'm going to move the topic there (and leave a ghost-link here if possible). Roland M.

5-yr extended! Wow that's a long time indeed! Is that 5 year plus the 1 year from Sony or 5 year total? Anyway yeah to "unhack" it just return the values to what they were. Ideally you should have written down the initial values as there is a chance they *may* have been different than the ones in the hack writer/author's post but usually they are the same... I have a Canadian N707 as well and it had the same initial values shown as the ones on the hack I've seen/done for this model. So you should be fine to go back to the "start" values listed with the hack. Still I doubt they would notice. My friend had his N707 in for warranty and he forgot to unhack it--they never noticed. To be on the safe side though, you may as well. Also how severely affected is your N707? The only reason I ask is because if it is still useable/useful to you (if it isn't completely dead) or if you have another unit you can use; you might want to hold off on the repair for about a month. If you don't have any other MD devices though, you may be more content just to bring it in as it will probably take a month to get fixed anyway, lol. The only reason I suggested waiting is that in about a months time Hi-MD models should start appearing... With a lot of extended warranties companies sometimes decide to replace the unit instead of repairing it (particularly if the repair cost is high). So you *might* have some small chance of actually cashing in on getting a brand new Hi-MD unit as a replacement for your N707. Not saying it is going to happen, nor should you get your hopes up, but it is a possibility