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sfbp

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Everything posted by sfbp

  1. Have you actually followed the procedure to join tracks on the Minidisc player itself? It is kind of hard to find, but for the RH1 it is on page 48. It works for just about all portable players except when there are restrictions (eg 2 different format tracks, tracks downloaded from PC, etc). Stuff you recorded yourself should not be a problem. The idea is to pause playback at a track mark, and press track mark. This will toggle the track mark, removing it if you are actually at a mark already (if you aren't, it will create one, this dividing the tracks). I might cheat (if it was me) and use a deck with optical out, since the whole disc gets played in one long stream. I realise you don't have that option, but maybe someone could do that for you.
  2. You may find that these are more than adequate. I similarly was not that disappointed with the bundled mike - but the binaurals are a lot better. Not sure if you need the whole battery box thing.
  3. OK, you obviously know more electronics than I do. Will that same setup work on other units? I just now noticed Avrin's update to the #5 post in this thread (mea culpa). (my only challenge was that some driver must be needed to communicate - but your point is that the driver consists of the various standard block and usbstor drivers, nothing specific to MD, which I have observed and agree with).
  4. OK. On inspection of the power supply it seems like the outer two pins are connected (+5V aka Vcc, and 0 aka GND) but there are no "data" connections. So to accomplish what OP wants, probably he has to sever the data lines on the USB connector whilst leaving the power lines intact. Check, Avrin? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB
  5. That doesn't quite make sense (yet). What is happening when a USB power supply (I have one for my GPS unit incidentally) is plugged into the RH1, then? There's no question it knows the difference (from being plugged into a computer). However the cable is a standard USB cable. Also I challenge the statement that a HiMD unit "doesn't actually use any driver". I think you might be saying that it doesn't use any identifiable or add-on driver. But it undoubtedly uses something. How else can the unit tell the difference between PC and powersupply? Seems to me that disabling some component in Windows might exactly trick the PC into the effect we want. Perhaps even just plugging into a powered USB hub might do it? Notes added: 1. it looks like USBSTOR.SYS is the component that is insisting on getting installed. However I rebooted the machine and noted that even the ROM BIOS of my Thinkpad caused the RH1 to go into "online-to-PC" mode. 2. Is there a difference between the connector on the Sony supplied powersupply and a normal USB port? Or perhaps the PS is providing a different voltage so that the RH1 knows which is which? Sounds like more fun with the charging parameters.
  6. Ah, ok. There's a way of getting USB power to a unit without invoking the driver, though. If you can avoid the proper driver getting installed, I should imagine that might get around the problem. For instance, the RH1 comes with a PS that has a USB connector on it, and runs fine. So do some of the other units though I don't actually own one. You can buy a USB powersupply for cars too. I would think that renaming all relevant drivers on Windoze would have the effect of turning the 'puter into a giant wall adapter, right?
  7. I see from the photos of the MZ-RH910 that there is a Tmark button on the unit. Isn't this what you want? I was unable to find the manual but it might be somewhere on this site. Hope this helps.
  8. This is an unsound and unscientific survey but a post created last night http://forums.minidisc.org/index.php?showtopic=21468 doesn't seem to have its images. I have no idea if this is an isolated event. Looks like the clue was those pics were uploaded *before* the majority of pictures came back.
  9. A message I posted to today had an image which had disappeared. It's back, though. wd chris Stephen
  10. Flush your browser cache, Ctrl-Shift-Del with Firefox. Logout. Clear all temporary files (Windoze) Reboot Windows. If this is a Mac thing, try again on another computer. Whoops there probably is something wrong with the board, all the photos just disappeared.
  11. Right there in the picture is the evidence.... "free 407.2 MB" You ran out of space. Just as I said. Time to clean up your disk and delete some stuff. The WAV file will be about 500-600 MB Good Luck!
  12. Check SS and see where the .WAV files are kept. 63 minutes is at least 500 MB maybe more like 600. If the default configuration is to put the .WAV files to some device or partition that doesn't have this much space, you might just have a problem. Look under 'Tools->Options->Location to save imported files'. It's also possible you need to defrag though I would be surprised. Something is stopping the transfer. The other (more disturbing) possibility is that you have errors on your disk that happen to get hit when you create the large file needed. Better back up soon.
  13. sfbp

    "IPod Police"

    Well, the DHS really scored a home run, look at this guys: http://yro.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=08/08/01/0958242 Unbelievable!
  14. Many laptops (eg my thinkpad) have a third socket hidden away from the pink (mike) and green ('phone) sockets. What brand? Maybe it's time to get a non-laptop which allows you to add a sound card? Alternatively there are USB sound cards such as this one here: http://www.terratec.net/en/products/Aureon...MK_II_2120.html Good luck!
  15. There are lots of second hand decks from Ebay.co.uk. Suggest you try getting one of those. You'll probably need a sound card with optical in, try the Terratec Aureon Fun 5.1 from dabs.com.
  16. Seems doubtful that member #0 is ever going to receive this Cheers
  17. Well the firmware is what is reading the settings in NVRAM, surely? Do we know what they mean? I haven't looked in the service manual, nor compared to my own settings, either. We'd need to compare notes, as many as possible of us.
  18. Interesting. So the cutoff voltages (probably just the low voltage) for charging is wrong (set too high). This would explain a lot. Probably someone with expertise in the firmware dept needs to figure out which parameter to tweak, then. I should have thought that this would be right up your street, Avrin.
  19. Something else; (if that wasn't the problem) find a way to discharge the battery. Turns out there is circuitry in all(?this is the part I am not 100% certain of) Li-Ion batteries to prevent them going completely flat. This I learned AFTER buying a new laptop battery, and the ==new one== out and out dying after 1 year. Turns out all I needed to do was to DISCHARGE the OLD one, and it regained its composure (and chargeability). So it may be best to buy a new battery and leave the one you are having trouble with out, for a few months. Meanwhile, make sure any Li battery is drained as far as possible (by using it) about once per month, and it will tend to last longer. One way to monitor this is to see what the RH1 does when re-charging. If it is REALLY empty, then it will probably say 60 mins. If it is not so, it will say much less than that. I don't think the RH1 has a quick mode, at least when I checked the menus just now.
  20. sfbp

    My R91 died....

    Very strange story here. I am looking for some of you old hands to explain it. I bought a used R91 about 6 months ago, actually for a family member, who didn't end up using it. It is a fine machine except that it doesn't do USB or MDLP. Anyhow, about 2 months ago, I noticed that the display was "flaky", sometimes "browning out" on me. The unit worked, the remote showed what was happening correctly but the display on lid was increasingly unreadable. I (shortly after) got an NF610 whose radio remote never ever worked and, trying to diagnose it, tried the radio in all the devices I had. As you know if you have seen one, the remote plug is strange and requires a specially shaped socket. Oddly enough the R91 has one. When I pushed the radio remote from the 610 into the R91 (it was a tight fit), all of a sudden the front-panel display started to work. The radio didn't. But I had fixed the problem. Any idea why? Puzzled in Vancouver.
  21. LP2, right? So you are saying that regardless of the dropdown box it always produces LP2? If it's a bug, now I am interested. Seems like certain (other) operations in SS create LP2 when they shouldn't. I recall folks here saying that was a bug not a feature. Eg when transferring to SP via NetMD. "Fake SP" it has been referred to. However maybe you just referred to the default which can be overridden by the dropdown menu, and the menu works provided that you set it every time. I'm not clear which....
  22. Trust me. They exist. The guy is sometimes out of the office, but quite reliable, stuff always seems to arrive.
  23. You can buy one in Australia for $99 including all sorts of accessories, and in USA on Ebay for about $130 though some auctioned items may go for under $100.
  24. Thanks. I read that as fast as I could, and no reference whatever to MD or digital out except something about Congress' attitude (on the last page). But the reference to AHRA http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_Home_Recording_Act does nicely explain the timing of how SCMS was introduced. Here is the puzzle though: the DECKS have audio out (well, most of them), but the PORTABLE PLAYERS do not. I absolutely fail to see why Sony decided to protect its a** in one case but not in the other. Maybe I'm missing something. This was an interesting read for several other reasons unconnected with MD, thanks again.
  25. I would be very interested to read any details (who, what, when).
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