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sfbp

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Everything posted by sfbp

  1. We need details. Your post says the equivalent of "I don't know how to ski down the mountain. Please help me". Well, to solve that problem we'd need to know which mountain, how good a skiier (and your skis) you are, and so on and on.... Computer Type of disk inserted in the RH1 Version of Windows, and bitness (32- or 64-) Driver installed We also need to know full details of the last system which DID work, and how your current setup differs. I could speculate endlessly, but perhaps the most likely thing has to do with a change in Windows version. Most likely you need one of the drivers from our downloads section. We can tell you which one when you give us some details.
  2. Yet more apologies from moi. However we all know that CR20xx last for 5-10 years. So it wouldn't be the end of the known world to throw one in, remembering to do the same in 7.5 years' time. I have replaced so many Li rechargeable batteries from different portable devices lately that I almost think Sony's use of them might be in effect a mis-design. Here's an affordable one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-MAXELL-ML2016-3V-Rechargeable-Button-Cell-Battery/264217699607
  3. Sorry for the misinformation when I responded (I told you I was out of it), I suppose I meant "CR2032" in a generic sort of way since that is what SOOO many devices use. Thank you for the correction, Kevin. I have some 2016's too so I think I will go examine them. Yes! It looks like 20 is the diameter in mm, 16 is the thicknessx10 ie 1.6 mm. They are just a thin version of the 3.2mm (2032) which are a bit more common. The odd configuration is my car-clicker (Dodge) which has 2 x 2016 in the same space as 1 x 2032 - obviously they needed more voltage for some reason I cannot fathom. Are you sure the one you're looking at is 16mm diameter? One more thing... these ARE dirt cheap, less than $2 for 5 of them - see here: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=CR2016+lot&_sacat=0
  4. Great stuff if you're up for it. Are you sure it's as simple as a key? I got the strong impression (if I believe Nielsen's response) that the difference between versions of Gracenote is functional. However it's eminently possible that they did this on purpose to invalidate things like Sonic Stage. If that is the case, then it should be trivial to fix. It also would mean they lied to whoever asked the question about that. OTOH if it requires translating all requests and responses (ie both directions) to marry the old client to the new server, then it may be a bit more than a couple of weekends to implement - which is so far why I haven't tried myself. It's even possible, if there's a security string that all you have to do is substitute it and somehow sign the SS binary (either for install, or for execution, I'm not sure how things fail in this day and age, being an old timer from when real patching was routine) which we all use. I agree that if all that's going on is a security string then you can do exactly what you say, too. PS. One more thing - AAL is lossless! It has a lossy part but when combined with the rest makes it lossless. Oops I see you wrote AAC. Nevermind...
  5. Now that's a bit extreme..... I'd take it off you (except the shipping charges would be awful to where I live) as I've long been pondering getting one of these nice machines.
  6. As you can see from the previous thread to which I have merged your inquiry, your question has already been answered. Further posting like this will be regarded as spam and you will be removed. I have changed your login as it has an email address - we don't like publishing them. Neither should you. I have changed the title so that people can find it.
  7. THAT would manifest as always saying "initializing" when machine turns on (not sure about JE510 though). We had this a few weeks back and I was so far out of it not to suggest that possibility at the time.... Agree a CR2032 might easily be the culprit.
  8. Old capacitors in the powersupply most likely. If you measure it, the power consumption of these devices is minuscule, about 1/4 of a watt, designed to be left on.
  9. Fixed the file as of now. Version 1.4 Note that you can avoid the problem by unplugging the PCLK-MN10 (/20) when running install, if you cannot be bothered to download the new file.
  10. Yes the MDS-JB940 is the go-to MDLP deck. If you get it, I'm jealous :) I tried ebay.com but all overpriced and not much you really want there. Ebay.co.uk may be better but you have a shipping problem. Shipping by buyee is really fast, and you can choose some cheap options if you look carefully. Good company to deal with.
  11. You're going to be taking it apart. As I don't know how to find a service manual, may I humbly suggest you might be better off solving your problem by spending a few bucks on a different MD. I would think that a deck might be your best option, as you cannot transfer FROM any portable to PC. A deck with optical out, however.... See for example: https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/k424387718
  12. You DEFINITELY need to get rid of traces of NetMD for that PCLK install..... and there may well be some oemnn.inf with that PCLK lingering. Check to see if there's a "bad" device for the PCLK (yellow triangle, and driver file= NETMD760.SYS, I think) and UNINSTALL it please. Then reboot immediately to make sure the uninstall takes, even with the PCLK plugged in.
  13. No. It's all my fault. There is an entry in the install file(s) for PCLK and it needs to be removed. Add that to my todo list this week. So sorry for your pain.
  14. The error message must mean something: so it's time to get a registry cleaner utility. The last one I recall was named Wise.
  15. OK. Next question: did you figure out how to allow NETMD760 to be installed? i.e turning off driver signing enforcement........
  16. Wondering if "open" means the microswitch that shows a disk has been inserted is stuck....?
  17. I still think you'd be better off not messing with the DB (there are SO MANY fields and you have to figure out how to use them), but simply scanning all the headers of all known files. But no one got anywhere without trying.
  18. Have fun. If you come up with anything we can all use, we'd be interested......
  19. 'I didn't find any oem.inf" Did you find the hidden directory?
  20. Mine looks like this (no guarantees): You'll still need to figure out the meanings of all the fields (in the database), as well as all the fields (in the headers of the files) to get what you want. I wouldn't bother to try and track WAV files at all - things get very confusing and WAV files don't have metadata (in the file).
  21. You could open the database in Access or SQL Server. Be very careful not to "touch" or modify the contents of any sound files. This inevitably requires them to be removed and readded to be used in SS. HOWEVER, I would be inclined to do two things: 1. List out all the directories under your SS imported files. 2. Write yourself a utility to parse the headers (they are almost identical to MP3 with "ID3" replaced by "EA3"). Get all those headers into your own excel spreadsheet. You can find out the meanings of some of the headers from the MP3 docs, and the rest from the #linux-minidisc sources. Good luck!
  22. OK. I've looked at your problem in a tiny little bit more detail, and it is behaving as I would expect it to if there were multiple drivers being installable for the unit in question. It looks like it is a Sony LAM-10 device at least electronically. First step: get rid of all the NetMD .inf files in your windows\inf directory (hint: they will be called oem<nn>.inf , where <nn> is a 2 or 3 digit number and the text Sony NetMD will be in the first line of the text file). They are *copies* of .inf files you have installed from in the past, and have no value ie no need to save them. Second step: turn on hidden devices (requires two settings in "System" environment: devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices; and devmgr_show_details - both set to 1) and delete (uninstall) anything which says NetMD using Device Manager. (and see below). REBOOT with nothing plugged in to USB. Third step: plug in your LAM-10 and see if you get a yellow triangle in Devmgr for missing device. Update as necessary. When you have pointed the installer at the NETMD760 files it should install. I am assuming you have Win64. Otherwise (Win32) start from the top using NETMD052, also in our downloads section. You should have ONLY one NetMD driver in the whole machine. If there are traces of NetMD in HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\USB that look like they're not belonging to your (working eg MZ-RH1) devices, try to figure out how to get rid of them too. Deleting (uninstalling) these from Device Manager should have done this, unless one of them is still physically plugged in.
  23. https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d395387664
  24. LIkely it's hardwired to 32-bit Windows at that date of manufacture. So your best shot might be a 32-bit copy of Windows 7 or 10. Beware the difficulties in installing ANY driver - they try to make it as difficult as possible. This should be signed by Sony, so I expect it to work. This is standard behaviour for all USB devices when plugged into Win-64, unless there exists a 64-bit driver install (which I doubt). If you're stuck you can try installing VirtualPC (or use Hyper-V in W10). In this case you will have to plug in the device and then tell the virtual (32-bits) machine that you want to connect the device's USB to the VM.
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