sfbp

The MDS-W1 does what you want for SP and MDLP disks. HiMD isn't such a problem because as long as you unprotect them, uploaded files can be made to a new disk that looks a lot like the old one.

Enough already....! you, sir, cannot apparently take a hint. Final warning. Three strikes etc etc etc

Really? You can go in both directions, to and from the PC?

That site is one place to look. Only 2 downloads per day allowed. I think the rest has to be done with search engines. I assume you already checked minidisc.org and here in the library.

Any fluctuations visible by eye are nothing to do with the signal. If there's a good connection, you will see a steady light. Period. Remember that the only formats that MD can process are: 32Khz; 44.1Khz (native); 48Khz. The outliers are converted to 44.1 by some resampling that Sony built in to almost every recording device. The other problem is that many devices put out a signal with one or both of the copy bits (SCMS) set. In this case you need a stripper. The easiest way to get this functionality is with a PC that has optical in AND optical out, since most sound cards allow you to control the SCMS setttings for yourself. Stephen

Try the service manual here https://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_sj-mr100.pdf/download.html

NetMD driver (NETMD052) for all 32-bit Windows, View File This driver will install in place of ALL known 32-bit NetMD drivers (eg NETMDUSB.SYS, NETMD031.SYS, NETMD033.SYS). It is to be used on all versions of Windows, including 7 and 8. It WILL NOT work on Windows64 (the usual version for Windows 7 and 8)in any version of Windows. For that you need the (pinned) upload called "NetMD Driver 64-bit Win7 or Vista" elsewhere in this downloads section. To get the benefit of fast NetMD upload on the MZ-RH1 (and MZ-M200) you must follow the steps in the first post here: Ignore that step if you have never installed a NetMD driver before (you will know, if you are reading this) on this computer. If you don't do this on a system that has been used before with the "standard" drivers from Sony, your uploads to the RH1 will be TEN TIMES slower than expected. This will undoubtedly shorten your temper as well as the life of your precious RH1. Please note: there will be a signing error during installation because the contents of the .INF file have been edited (relative to when Sony originally compiled it). You must ignore the error at install time, either by disabling checking of driver signing, or by overriding the default behaviour which may be to ASK whether you wish to ignore the signing error. Without this step you can not install the driver. In Windows 8 signing is forced on, and you have to (temporarily or permanently) make it optional. In earlier versions of Windows it is optional (on request) or may be turned completely off (not recommended). It's ok to turn signing off temporarily to install this driver, then set it back to its former condition after the install. The error will be something like "STOP: are you sure you wish to proceed?" or some such terrible-sounding warning. It's quite safe, FOR THIS DRIVER, to ignore that. There's no change in the driver itself, only the information file which allows it to be installed on more units. I hope this is useful. Submitter sfbp Submitted 01/17/2013 Category Drivers  

NetMD Driver 64-bit Win7 or Vista View File These are the drivers you will need to get NetMD devices to work with 64-bit Windows 7 and Vista. For Hi-MD devices in Hi-MD mode, no driver is needed, however for NetMD mode you will still need this. Compatible models: NetMD: MZ-N1 LAM-1 MDS-JB980 MZ-N505 MZ-S1 MZ-N707 MZ-N10 MZ-N910 MZ-NF810/N710 MZ-NF610/N510 MZ-NE410 MZ-NE910/NE810 LAM-10 AM-NX1 MDS-S500 AM-NX9 Sharp IM-MT880/899 Sharp IM-DR400/410 Sharp IM-DR420/DR80/DR580 Kenwood DMC-S9NET Panasonic SJ-MR250 Hi-MD: MZ-NH1 MZ-NH3D MZ-NH900 MZ-NHF800/NH700 MZ-NH600/NH600D MZ-N920 MZ-DH10P MZ-RH10/M100 MZ-RH910/M10 MZ-RH1/M200 Others: C7NT L7HD 333NT/373NT (Note: PCLK functionality will NOT work with this driver set, so no M-Crew is possible unless you use the XP virtual machine in W7 Pro or Ultimate) Here's a video one user posted in the forums. Thanks muchly, "proudofmylife" A word to the wise: if you want to see what is actually depicted (text), recommend watching on youtube rather than in this window here. That's an option if you right-click the screen shot here. That will allow you to view in full screen, thereby seeing the details quite clearly. Submitter sfbp Submitted 02/04/2011 Category Drivers  

I never had any trouble with the RH1 as a playback device. Try something other than PCM.

Trust me.. PCM mode for transfers (not live recordings) is a waste of time, IMHO. Use Sonic Stage to create Hi-SP (you can set it up to concert automatically) and send that through USB. Optical in works best with a deck. There's reasons for all this: 1. PCM uses a lot of power both on recording and playback. I've had endless arguments with one individual who was insistent he could hear the difference on his headphones. I didn't believe him. 2. Players and rippers all take a very variable subset of the "real" data on a CD (which is close to 20 bits in most cases, hence "oversampling"). To get 16 bits that sounds good, the algorithm is very special (read up about dithering). There are settings in Sonic Stage but I am not sure they make much difference. 3. ATRAC (and ATRAC3/+) is a 24 bit mantissa, 8-bit exponent logarithmic format. That's why a recording of SP can sound better than the original CD. Especially with Sony's ripper set to "High Quality" (which takes longer). 4. Sonic Stage can also generate Sony AAL (Atrac Advanced Lossless) which is a great source to: a. regenerate a CD b. make a nice listenable recording on MD with not too many bits. I suggest AAL with the lossy part being Hi-SP (256kbits/s). AAL is a useful format because it's not protected by encryption. So no fuss with File Conversion Tool. Having said that one of the best ways to get lots of music onto a MD is to use a deck and record from optical at LP2 (132 kbps), and then upload that to the PC. I've uploaded a fair amount of LP4 (66kbps) this way and it sounds terrific. More bits doesn't necessarily mean a better sound. Oh yes, one more thing... SP doesn't transfer properly. You may as well use LP2 and get 2x as much music.

Ah yes, so does OP

S1, DH710, NH700, NHF800, NH600, as well as the other ones already mentioned. Probably the best combination of features and reliability is the NH700.

Coax to Optical is no biggie. That's inside every Sony deck with an opti-out. It's basically hooking the digital signal to the signal input of an LED. Coax, you simply connect it and the signal travels along the wire. Disadvantages of direct Coax connection: 1. Ground loops (optical of course isolates each end from the other) 2. Noise from variations in resistance You can make your own converter (buy a transmitting LED and they give you a circuit with 1, 2 or 3 components such as resistor, capacitor). You can buy one. Or you can use a deck that has coax in and opti out (any of the 9xx deck series, plus some other European models too).

No. Not particularly the RH1, it's the last in a long line of MDs. You might want to see if you can find a USB cable with a very flat profile that will allow you to connect it to USB and still be flat on the table. They exist but are hard to find. Batteries are a problem. Learn the best strategy for caring for your Li-Ion battery. Try to order a spare one soon; and keep it charged (about 60% is the recommendation).

You probably don't want to exercise the option of putting it straight in the MD, the retail version should come with a short cable (3.5mm F->M extension). I don't need to tell you how careful you have to be with the choice of cable: 1. Light and flexible enough so that it's difficult to jerk the jack strongly, thereby breaking it 2. Perfect conductivity - ie gold plated connectors. Time to put this in another thread.

The big problem with standard mikes is they will require power and there isn't much coming out of the MD. 1. The Sony "typical" ECM-DS70P - $30 if you look on Amazon. No power required. 2. ECMMS907 - A step up but takes an AA battery inside it (weight!) 3. Binaural BMC-SP2 or their equivalent. Great for concerts where they look a lot like earphones. No power. 4. Build yourself a battery box and use any mic that it will work with, and LINE IN. This is a trick for MD units with no microphone socket but you may find it helpful depending on your application.

You can record from radio to HiMD if you have the Onkyo X-B7 (or -B8). That unit has no USB connectivity, so you'd need to get a HiMD portable as well to upload the result from the MD to a computer. The radio-in-the-remote is basically useless (and highly unreliable). A gimmick that didn't work.

The recent review of the CMT-M333NT (I have one) doesn't mention that this unit also records radio. My own interest has been to record INTERNET radio, as it's generally better signal than FM. For that you need any MD unit as almost all of them have optical in, plus a sound card in the PC that outputs optical. My favourite is the Terratec, but there are plenty of others.

Yes, the RH1 will allow you to do what you want. When I say "NetMD-created" i mean the tracks have been transferred to the MD using USB and NetMD (as opposed to HiMD). But no other NetMD-enabled unit (none of the other HiMDs either) will allow you to transfer FROM the disk. However (just to complicate things) generally speaking you CAN transfer from any 1GB disk or reformatted legacy disk (to HiMD specs) using the USB link. Simply NOT the SP/LP2/LP4 formats ("legacy"), except with the RH1. There are more restrictions but if you follow our advice(s) you won't run into them. So you could buy any HiMD device (that has USB) and use a microphone and (as long as the disk is HiMD formatted) transfer the tracks to the PC.

Well, sure - but if the recordings are hundreds of hours in length..... it's going to take you.... uh ... hundreds of hours. Been there, done that. Having said that, your method is the ONLY way to recover NetMD-created disks. By design

What makes you think that number is decimal, Philippe? I was assuming Hex, ie 00 to FF

Does anyone have a Kanji remote? Is it DIFFERENT (you can look at all the symbols on a remote in service mode)??? Maybe all you need is a replacement. The one thing I have totally failed to find is online versions of any service manuals in Japanese, ie for the domestic product. This is right across the range. So for example the EH series which are essentially unknown outside Japan, I have no manual. By the way, spend $50 and get yourself an MZ-EH70 (or EH-50) or a bit more for a MZ-EH930 so that you can avoid taking your precious RH1 into the nasty, dirty world Then you won't be asking us for repair help in a couple of years.... http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/p522649982

If 03 is Japan, makes me wonder if 02 is all-japanese where 03 is japan tourist model (combination of Eng and Jap). You could try 04 and 05 and see what you get. It occurs to me that somewhere they have to have a menu for French/German/Italian/Spanish..... do you get that with 81? Beware that the buttons on the unit go dry rather sooner than later. Once they do, it seems almost impossible to use them.

What was it before setting? Did you check the value by going to another value (read) and then re-reading the one you'd just set? This is pure imagination, but I wonder if the SECOND value (0114) is the value for the remote? In the RH10 it's set to 80. But you might see what that setting is on your RH1. I can't check as it seems impossible for me to get into service mode.