sfbp

You can play the music recorded on your NH700 by hooking it up to a PC with an optical output. Other than that there's no direct digital out from the Hi-MD unit. Sony's software plays the HiMD disks nicely. Legacy (MDLP and SP) you are out of luck as the unit never sends those over USB toward the PC - one-way only.

Hmm I doubt he's answering. 12 year old thread and author gone from around here since April 2017.

NAC-HD1 There's a guy on here who was adding more powerful disks to the original 250G, too.

Sorry you're not making sense. This is beginning to look like some sort of phishing expedition, pardon my French. MD units are cheap.

The problem is that the SS install includes all the 32-bit drivers by default. Never mind that you don't need ANY of them (sigh - I wish I knew enough to update Avrin's careful work with the SS install to do that). Simple things come to mind. Have you been doing with power adapter for 910? If not, maybe it's flaky connected if the battery ain't good. The "original" NetMDs could not draw power from the USB connector, so you need to have a stable source of power. As far as erasing disks, you should be able to do a FORMAT (Initialize) even of a NetMD disk. If this fails there are two known ways to blank a disk: a. A portable unit whose OWH is dead and will blank ANY disk the moment you try to write (even a single trackmark) b. A pre-NetMD deck (anything with no USB connectivity should do it) will ignore the TrProtect flag when formatting disks.

The main reason I suggested down one click is that sometimes that's all it takes. Admittedly, one click up is more likely but also one click closer to overheating. You're probably done, I would guess

But I bet you didn't START with the 64-bit driver. (which unfortunately you have to override Microsoft Windows' dislike of unsigned driver files - the driver itself is unchanged). The one thing that changed about most people's setup is that the OS is (usually) no longer 32-bits. PS no need to uninstall SS. However you may want to get rid of all the 32 bit drivers (follow the instructions here)

You need to install Sonic Stage and the NetMD driver.

Look good to me. Just make sure they have a calibration chart for converting 780 to whatever the "reference" wavelength power is, ie a multiplier (fractional). I see it even has a 780 button, you should be good to go

Yes one tenth! My understanding is that IOP is measured by the person with a voltmeter and a LPM and simply recorded. So that you can see if it changed the next time around. They also write the original value on the pickup usually in blue biro. I don't think any non-human agent actually uses the stored IOP. I never touched IOP - merely used (my) LPM to check and adjust values of the actual laser output power.

Isn't the IOP just the "saved" copy after you (someone) measured it? I'm trying to recall. I think you have to look closely at what the SM says when telling you to adjust. Yeah, Page 26. The one you want to change is the 0.9mW setting (LDPWR) not the 7mW one which is the write power. Another thought. Did you check that this unit always plays CDs perfectly? (prerecorded MD which use a different technology). If the CD did the same I would be very tempted to think that the whole thing is mechanical or at least related to the loading motor. Maybe the loader switches off and relies on some capacitor discharging? I'm getting out of my depth as this is beyond anything I've ever tried to fix.

Hahaha! The belt cannot wear out if there isn't one. I guess the 440/640/940 were the first "consumer" ones (MDM7) to use a belt. I wonder about something else in the drive train then. Sounds a bit like a missing tooth, doesn't it? 3D printer is the way to go on that one. But C13 is usually the read power. Note that it's best to work with disks that were made on a perfectly adjusted unit, otherwise you're pushing the servo over its happiness (happyness - Will Smith) limit. It's fairly typical to see vibration of the head from side to side and when it vibrates too much you get C13, I think. Sounds like you've done all the right things. All you need is the LPM. With the stable of machines you describe maybe it's time to try and find one.

This may sound absolutely nuts but try decreasing the laser read power by exactly one notch. The adjustment on Laser power is much more critical for read than for write (having said that, if you turn up the WRITE power you'll get to retire the laser much faster!). Are you sure the insertion mechanism belt's not dead? That would account for it not registering sometimes but once it works, it stays working.

It's possible someone opened up the disk and swapped it.. but why? Also the actual case is encoded so that the sensors can recognise it's a 1GB disk. The actual plastic would need different holes in to make the RH1 believe it's a high capacity disk. This makes no sense unless someone tried to pull a publicity stunt (for fun).

The ONLY hiMD (1GB) disks are the Sony, either the blue ones or there is a grey kind. Those TDK disks clearly say "74". I'm sure you know that the 74 and 80 can be formatted to HiMD specifications. But you only get a small fraction of the 1GB capacity.

I haven't seen the service manual but most of them are the same. The order is a. align with CD (prerecorded optical MD) b. align with MO (recordable magnetic MD)

I looked at the schematics and it looks like the CMOS is right next to the HDD socket, but on the motherboard. Shows how to remove cover (I'm sure your model is similar). The picture is a bit blurred but you should have no trouble finding it. It should be a pop-in/out socket.

CR2032 are dead easy to recognise. Buy one (or a few) and then look for it inside the VAIO. The top surface will usually be visible. On laptops, it gets more complicated as getting them apart is a bit tricky. But on an ordinary PC you should be able to see it mounted somewhere on the motherboard. I don't know where you're getting your advice from.

Just about ALL cmos batteries for PC are CR2032 or equivalent.

O-rings. It should not be that difficult to get approximately the right ones from machinery or auto parts supplier. Unfortunately I can't tell you how they are measured. Such things generally have peculiar methods to categorise their size

You probably need to clean up all the "ghost" NetMD's that are only visible if you turn on "hidden devices" (and use the two environment variables without which you won't even see it at all).

That's the largest commonly available size for orthodontic bands (I just went back to the links that I originally posted). However the use of them comes with no warranty or promises from me. I have NOT tried this... I purchased my replacements from someone who sold me the "correct" O-rings. YMMV, as they say, caveat emptor. I was hoping someone who'd actually done this might jump in and reassure you, but alas..... Note that such bands tend to vary a bit within the bag - you may want to sort through and pick out a good one (you've plenty of choice!).

1. We need to know which version of Windows (64 or 32). I am assuming Windows 10. This might be better in its own thread... we shall see 2. We need to know what kind of disk you are using: Legacy (NetMD), Legacy (reformatted to HiMD) or HiMD (1GB - only HiMD format possible). 3. You don't need to convert **some** files. Please give us detailed information about what you see and what you are trying to do. For example: "it tried to transfer LP2 files and appeared to manage the first one, then hung up saying "converting files"...... 4. The files you are trying to convert... what are they? Originally MP3, originally recorded on MD or did you get them from somewhere else? That's enough questions for now.... there will be more.

Note that the 760 driver only applies to Windows 64. There are lots of installations of Windows 10-32 out there and they either need the 32-bit omnibus driver (better if you plan to run multiple devices when one of them is the MZ-RH1/M200) or the original 32 bit drivers which are part of the existing SS ultimate installation. I wish i knew enough to duplicate Avrin's packaging to include the newer drivers, but I don't. Tant pis.

If you want the songs to play in the right order you may well WANT to keep the numbering. Most modern devices will only sort by name, unlike the original MD scheme where ordering them in the display will make them play as you see them.