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Everything posted by sfbp
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The best way to blank a disk completely is to acquire a portable with a busted OW head, so that at the first attempt to write the disk it is completely "empty". Just be careful that said unit is kept in a locked cupboard so nobody even your can take out and try to use by accident. First time you press Track Mark..... booooom!
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If you've read the history they actually started manufacturing in a barn that had been used previously to make ploughs and other agricultural equipment. Not sure if that's relevant to audio quality tho (:
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Ha! Mine came from the *actual* Kent Engineerng Foundry. Chorales. I saw a review of them a few years back from someone in NY who said they easily matched speakers costing thousands today.
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Out of curiosity, which KEF speakers?
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sorry you will still need to find a sound card with optical in. I don't *think* that's the case for the Mac. You would need a sound DAW like a MOTU or something similar (half a dozen different manufacturers) to get the S/PDIF signal into the Macbook, unless I've missed something. In the PC world a $10 sound card will do the job. Maybe you need to beg, borrow or steal a PC to plug a sound card (Terratec is nice) into the bus.
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Not with the 707. To get it off digitally you would need either: a. A (full size) deck with optical out or b. An MZ-RH1 (or MZ-M200, same thing). Sorry but that's just the way life is.
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Looking for USB_PatchWriter for MZ-N710
sfbp replied to jld2016's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Read the rest of this thread in detail. Note there is no such thing as MZ-R710, you will have an MZ-N710 which is a completely different beast from the one described in that link in your last post. You need: a. the service manual (start at page 25 in the NF810 service manual, I can't lay my hands on the 710 but it is the same unit minus the remote radio). b. a prerecorded CD (any old one will do) c. a blank 74 minute MO, preferably unopened (80 may work just fine but I think the service procedure was designed around 74) There IS a procedure where you can trick it back into life by UNresetting the parameters, but I wouldn't recommend it unless absolutely desperate. I'm not publishing it here. If you can figure it out well enough to get it right you are half way to doing the Full Monty alignment anyway. If and when the "servo alignment" doesn't work then you have to go back to first principles starting with the hardware and basic functionality. I am starting from the premise that someone did a "911 Reset" (curious name) that led to the situation you are now in. -
Looking for USB_PatchWriter for MZ-N710
sfbp replied to jld2016's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Huh? -
ROFL//// right on, Kevin!
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Jammed microsowitches? Sounds like one for NGY who sadly is no longer with us.... Kevin has worked on the E-11 quite a bit, so I would expect him to chime in here.
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Did I Record Over Tracks 1 and 2 on Sony MZ-R37?
sfbp replied to Steven LaFashia's topic in Live Recording
As long as you didn't record anything AFTER this button pushing, you are OK. You need to learn how to do TOC cloning. Not sure of the specifics for your unit, but usually it will need a deck! -
Welcome. 1. NW-HD5 doesn't speak VHF or native USB) and the head unit likely won't play the files it is offering to USB (via USB of course). 2. You don't give details of your head unit. Does it have an AUX socket (3.5mm jack)? that would be the simplest. 3. You don't give details of your fm transmitter, so we don't understand your expectations. Is it already hooked to the NW-HD5 via the headphone/line out? 4. Naming your question after you doesn't make it easy to find this topic, later. So if it's not about you, please edit the topic ASAP. (hint: other such self-named topics have been deleted, in the past). Thanks
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I just posted this to downloads. Thanks Freddy, you can take it offline now. S
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SBeatjam.iso View File Thanks to FreddyJollo for this image requested several times on the forums. It is the ISO for the Sharp MD software called Beat Jam. I don't know any more about it than that. Good luck to y'all. You will still need, most likely the NetMD 64-bit drivers NETMD760.SYS available elsewhere in downloads. Stephen Submitter sfbp Submitted 04/26/2021 Category Programs
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Version 1.0.0
25 downloads
Thanks to FreddyJollo for this image requested several times on the forums. It is the ISO for the Sharp MD software called Beat Jam. I don't know any more about it than that. Good luck to y'all. You will still need, most likely the NetMD 64-bit drivers NETMD760.SYS available elsewhere in downloads. Stephen -
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Welcome to our forums. It takes a long time, relatively, to go through and delete duplicate posts, so please DONT DO IT. The universal drivers for 32-bit and 64 bit windows should work just fine. No idea about BeatJam, but SonicStage should do what you want.
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"everyone" (meaning I cannot remember and I haven't done it!) is telling me that you should be able to buy a reliable USB<->RS232 adapter for a few bucks from Amazon. I do keep my early noughties laptop (T40) for communicating with my server-monster that has a real RS232 port in the docking station. I'm sure you know all about 9pin vs 25 pin and the various aspects of RTS/CTS and flow control generally, so you will work it out - that's the most painful part I have found, even if I have got the right connection.
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Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
sfbp replied to sfbp's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
The reason for that is that all that gets transferred back is the rights (library book checkout). NetMD cannot be transferred to PC***. Pre-RH1 limitation in USB speed (hardware/firmware). RH1 by design****. They didn't want to proliferate copies generated by NetMD transfer. For HiMD a lot less restriction because they're normal files. ***I don't think you can get anything OFF an MZ-N710 for example. ****The ability to upload MDLP bitwise built into the firmware. The ability to upload SP, if i recall correctly (and doubtless someone's gonna jump all over me with hobnailed boots) simply generates 16bit toslink output and makes a wave stream. You can capture it but it won't be as good as the SP because it's not bit for bit. -
Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
sfbp replied to sfbp's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Not quite - M-Crew is a much better tool than SonicStage, for editing. Once USB came along, everyone was focused on the computer and transfer therefrom. No PC-Link, no accurate remote editing. You have to transfer the file somehow to the PC and edit it there. -
Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
sfbp replied to sfbp's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Problem solved! The R36 and R37 are clearly visible in the diagram for the MDS-S50. Maybe what happened is that they altered the 640 board enough to make the S50, then retrofitted the new board (minus a couple of zero ohm resistors at least, who knows what else!) to 640's. And why not, indeed? Where's the same spot in the JB940, I wonder? Or was that always enabled? I've never had a JB940 in my hands though a couple of times was tempted to order one from Japan - until I saw the horrendous shipping cost for something so heavy. -
(Chimes in with seemingly irrelevant information) Yes, and the 630 which I have proudly proclaims Type-R on the front panel. The 2656 was the main outing for Type-R ***before*** the MDLP capability was added to any device. I recall somebody claiming that the Type-R was not present in the first MDLP portables. But the R900 uses CXD-2671-203GA which surprises me if that is the case. However there's no linear progression because the CXD-2662 is the MDLP Type-R used in so many decks, and 2664 is the Type-S.
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Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
sfbp replied to sfbp's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
BTW this is quite mysterious - that those two "jumper points" don't even exist on the schematic in the Service Manual that I have. Not that surprising I didn't know to jumper them. I definitely noticed that the board in the D5C didn't match the schematic, but that certainly would be true given that the one I recall looking at for clues was the Japanese one. I cannot begin to understand how you pieced it together! And I will be looking to see if I can work out what's going on with the D5C, too. -
Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
sfbp replied to sfbp's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
Here is the picture you needed, which I couldn't face doing when asked (been sleeping rather badly as you have noticed this week). I see there is absolutely nothing joining R36 and R37. By absolute bad luck the flash went off in that exact spot. Today I used my new handydandy phone and it took picture without flashing anything (I guess it has a better grade of light sensor) So that's all I needed, to add a blob of solder between each of those two connection points? (forget the 0 ohm SMT resistors for this poor schmuck!) -
Adding PC-Link to MDS-JE640 (like MDS-S50)
sfbp replied to sfbp's topic in Technical, Tips, and Tricks
That is the sad part... we shall miss you very much indeed. Hopefully whatever it is that took you away will relent or retarget you in our direction. I'm still puzzling over what I didn't do right. And I definitely went through all the same contortions with the MXD-D5C (US/Can model) and with the same result. So will be wonderful to have that machine fully fixed and with optical output which I already added.