sfbp

All I'm really saying is that not all 6V power supplies are equal. The official 6v Sony one works. I have tried other ones (allegedly 6V) with less success! I now remember why I commented on the PC3. Its socket is the wrong size for most other 9V adapters! However the right size for 6V. (again I may have that backwards, knowing me)

Good job. As I sort of suspected. So the HD3 and the NH1 are electrically equivalent. Excellent news. You will have your work cut out reviving that battery. It's probably a goner. Jimma's solution works. The other oddity in all this is I am far from convinced that the NH1 really needs a 6V powersupply. It may WELL be it needs more like 9 V. Why? Because I have noticed that the MDS-PC3 seems confused about whether it needs 6V or 9V, AND the NH1 supplied powersupply (6V) seems to be the only one that actually charges it correctly. I think somebody under/over-specified something. I'm certain Kevin and Gyula will know what's going on from my thumbnail sketch. I'm not sure I do.

I have one of those gizmos for my NW-HD3. Unfortunately the "retaining plate" which nicely fits it for the NW-HD3 makes it physically impossible to put that in the MZ-NH1. It looks as if it should go but in fact the connector is upside down and it simply doesn't fit. You could cut that plate off but I think that might compromise the solidity of the connection for the HD3. I'm guessing (BUT CANNOT AFFIRM THIS) perhaps the resultant cut-down BCA-NWHD3 might charge and allow USB access all at once to the MZ-NH1. But there might just a a reason that doesn't work. That's perhaps why the NH1 comes with: a. the data cable and b. the charge stand. You cannot use both at the same time. It's possible that there some electrical reason (on the NH1, only) that they didn't want two types of power hooked up simultaneously. Sadly I'm not prepared to wreck an NH1 and/or the BCA-NWHD3 to find out. Kevin or Gyula can probably puzzle over the schematics to try to figure out whether it makes sense to use that other adapter (after it's been chopped up) on the MZ-NH1. (it's true that they don't charge ***via*** USB, Richard. But they charge via that same connector!)

Depends on the disk inserted. NH900 and all HiMD units will play both HiMD formatted and legacy-formatted (NetMD or MD) disks. You never need a driver for HiMD, you always need a driver for legacy, even in a HiMD unit. If you got the N707 going (I am assuming 64-bit Windows) then the same driver will be needed that you just installed (that you got from our downloads sections).

Double-sigh. The NH1 does ***NOT*** charge from the cable alone. Sorry for raising false hope. The MZ-RH1 does, however. Further error by me - the LIP-4WM has only 2 terminals. So that other device would be safe. Doesn't buy you transfer to a PC though. To answer your other question, having computer hooked to stereo may be just as effective, and much less costly.

Hard to tell from the description. I don't much like the sound of having to "move the adjusters" for the + and - terminals, when most Li-Ion batteries actually have 3 terminals. I'd be inclined to check out this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SONY-USB-CABLE-FOR-MZ-NH1-MZ-NH3D-OR-MZ-DH10P-MINIDISC-PLAYERS/274693567699 Sorry I don't remember if it fails to charge without the stand but I think not; that stand is very nice but a cosmetic detail, especially since you can't do USB to it (if my memory serves correctly). I would also comment that you do NOT want to be always removing and reinserting the LIP-4WM which is a really tight fit. Once it becomes less than tight, your connection (to the battery terminals) may become quite unreliable. There is a stand for sale in Germany (no cable). Sigh.

best and most reliable is to do a SS backup to xternal HD, then restore to new installation Before you do ANY of that, make certain you deprotect all your tracks by running the File Conversion Tool. That way the raw files CAN be imported. If not, you're out of luck with that approach (file-by-file) and may never hear some of your music ever again.

Things pretty manic around here too. Mine is sitting on the table next to my newly-purchased (used) Mac. Sigh

Fair enough, the actual contents of the ROM were not published. But the description was published of the invention and its methodology, so whether a particular implementation is a trade secret is hardly a thorny question when you consider what's happened, generally, in the last 23 years in terms of law about such things. I don't believe anyone is in legal jeopardy here. The owners of any copyright would have to go to great lengths to protect something so old, and they probably can not. The only legal issue is from those who USE the technology to break some sort of intellectual-property protection of ideas or data. And that ship has sailed a long time ago. Rest easy.

There's no way it is protected by patent, way too much time has gone by. It's not a trade secret, since it was published. So you have zero worries about copyright. Charge ahead!

Hmmm - that looks suspiciously like a Sony controller (non-MD). I wonder if the codes are related? To clarify, it's the only manufacturer who made one with those dimensions and that shape of buttons.

I echo that.... the only thing that appeared to be brand-of-md-related is the report I and others made with some disks with transparent cases (the TD RXG) recording ok, but not playing back well on some other devices eg my MDX-66XLP car MD changer.

So we're thinking the spots are patches of lubricant?

Please note that the (optical) socket doubles as a standard stereo line input when you insert a normal 3.5mm jack. This is not coax digital but line-in analogue.

I think the advice probably originated from wearing out the (finite?) number of button pushes required from some more primitive forms of MD Decks, especially Pre-NetMD. The RM-D20P solves *that* problem, at least for decks. Trying to label things on a portable is IMHO a thankless task.

Glad to hear it. More to the point, don't even consider the sexy-looking full-face labels that stick all over the MD. Mind you, I imagine that it's hard for them to have a loose edge which is in the end what caused your disaster. I'm just rather cautious. Stephen

I have no idea if the "reset drive" even works for the 105FX. I read about it in the 105 manual just now. Sounds pretty nasty. If you get the machine apart you might see if it's something obvious like a broken tooth on the gear/reck which does the ejection/insertion. I have once or twice had apparently intractable problems where the 105FX failed. Leaving it powered down (not standby, but removing the cord from mains supply) overnight fixed the problem. I don't think there's a SM for the 133 either.

Sorry Kevin, that's not the manual for the 105FX, just its ancestor the 105. Up to now we've been unable to find one for the 105FX. Looking briefly I would say there's no belt, so don't get your hopes up. In the 105's manual (the one linked) there's a reference to resetting the drive. I wonder if this is perhaps worth trying? Is the cause of this something sticky on the MD? I am totally resistant to the full-covering and also the side mounted labels on MDs because of this type of problem.

Nope. Don't do it. That's how my CMT-PX3 (DHC595MD) got toasted before I ever received it. When I got the drive back from Jim, I found that same power->100V converter. Magically everything stopped overheating. Our voltage here is closer to 120 than 110, routinely. Not sure about Nova Scotia.

My first reaction would be to say that the power adapter is an excellent device and works perfectly. I have one. My second reaction would be to look at the schematic and see if you can figure out how to modify what's there, rather than putting in a whole new supply. Sony is very very careful about their components, and unless the one you got was from Sony, I would be rather sceptical of its ability to provide noise-free operation. Sadly, this is the most recent deck from Sony (another reason not to mess with it), and I cannot find a service manual. I have a vague recollection from someone describing to me how Sony has (in the past) used strappings of the same power transformer (including a weird loopback backstrap which is the difference between 110 and 100 volts). But as this appears to be a domestic only model (correct me if I am wrong) I doubt if there are any such provisions. I would NOT butcher this beautiful deck.

Sorry theres some "smarts" built into the way tracks are imported. I don't think you can get around it except by changing the track titles. If you are importing CDs, you must be toast. By all means poke around inside the configuration menus, but I have never noticed anything.

You will need our one-size-fits-all download (32- or 64- bits) driver for NetMD. You will need to disable driver signing for one reboot cycle. Google it and look on the site, there are endless descriptions of what to do. Good luck!

This is emphatically not a PC forum, and those of us who do know about PCs (myself included) know next to nothing about VAIO PCs and have never had one in their hands. Having said that, I am aware of similar issues in the land of Lenovo/W10. Initially I had the same problem but one day it started working just fine. You MIGHT try installing W7 bluetooth support over top of whatever you have, assuming their bitness is the same (32- or 64-) between the two setups. Certainly a number of other drivers (not BT) have worked for me "upgrading" to W10 from W7. Your alternative is to try and get a patched version of W7. It ***is*** possible. Let your fingers do the walking, no point in posting links here.

Most W10 are upgrades. Not sure how you force W10 to go into 32-bits though. The ones I have dealt with mainly got there because someone had 32-bit Win7 before that, and upgraded it.

Thanks for this - very useful at some future juncture (for me) and for OP if/when he gets a deck.