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Everything posted by Soundbox

  1. Today, at the Cash Converters (a UK chain dealing with used goods) , I picked one of these up (silver model but not 'UK Edition') for
  2. I use VHS daily - record and playing films. I have not seen a petition, but then again modern videotape stock is poor quality and to get back to VHS quality of 1990 to 1995 (peak years for quality) would be impossible now. Those decks were based on cast alloy chassis and audiophile grade components. VHS (or Beta) Hi-Fi still sounds great today. It would readilly beat most MP3 files and DAB radio. I got MD originally as a standalone recorder of high quality. Input microphone or line for versatile field use. That has not changed and I am using MD as I always have. What other people (whom I don't know and I know they have no interest in me) choose to buy or do has no bearing on me. I have recorders, I have discs and I have interest in recording. Pop in an MD, fire up my microphone and get out there to record all the sounds that interest me.
  3. Glad you are enjoying the RH1 - a FINE machine indeed. If you get a chance, do a search in the archives here on the MD forum and you can then understand it a little better. One thing I will say is use the jog lever with care. It is not flimsy but it can get tempremental if pushed harder than necessary. As you have found, good headphones are a must and only then can your machine breathe as it were and allow you to hear all the subtle sounds. Now all you need is a classic metal portable (like the R50 you used to use) for times when you don't want to risk damage to your new RH1.
  4. That is sad - but I wonder what the MD compatable Hi-Fi they speak of at the end is?
  5. Sadly the MD forum is not as active as it was so I will try to answer your question. The portable units using optical input (to me) sound exactly the same as using a full size recorder. When using line in it gets a little tricky. When using portables you have: Less accurate and responsive level meters Less filtering on the analogue inputs Lower powered (and easier to overload) circuits (To my ears) less deep bass response. But if you are used to your unit and how it responds then you can get very good recordings that can be listened to with critical ears. Use an ATRAC-R recorder and it gets better still. Now, comparing the decks I cannot be so sure but I can hear a difference (an improvement) when going from a 1997 mid range deck to a 2004 mid range deck so I feel fairly sure that the same could be true with decks in the same range. This is due to handling of the analogue signal (filters and better build). Hope I helped.
  6. Thank you Stephen - and I found the manual via that link too! Looks to be a fairly decent machine thankfully.
  7. At the Cash Converters they have a near mint condition MZ-R700 portable, case and some discs for
  8. In the Cash Converters they had a Sony D-NE900S CD player, battery pack and some other accessories for
  9. What are cloud services? I have not heard that term before - but knowing what people want this day and age I am betting it will be something to do with MP3's!
  10. I had this on an MZ-R50. The display was sluggish and faint. Jim H repaired it and found that the display driver board was faulty - and after replacement it was back to normal. If yours can be sorted by adjustment then that is great - and cheaper too!
  11. Me? I think I'll be keeping this example - but then I'm a natural hoarder.
  12. Thanks - I enjoy setting up a quick still life and MD portables are rather photogenic. The machine has been used - but not heavily. I spent my time with careful cleaning (using a lightly wetted artists paintbrush and microfible cloth). This method gets all the dirt out of even the smallest crannys.
  13. Just adding a photo taken today of my new MD portable. Taken with my Nikon D50 and 35-105mm Ai-S lens.
  14. Yes - I got the clear plastic stand with AC adaptor - the only thing missing really is a gumstick battery as the supplied one is dead.
  15. It has been there for 2+ weeks - a Sony MZ-N910 portable (in silver) with charger, docking stand and remote - for
  16. As the jog lever (track select, audio scan) back and forwards takes a moment to respond to input - as do most portables due to the music being stored in a buffer - it is tempting to press harder one way or the other thinking that the machine has not sensed what you are requesting. Don't shove - just press gently and wait a moment for the players responce. It is not a flimsy button, but I know from experience that pressing harder to get a quicker responce is not good for the contacts.
  17. The sound quality of the RH1 is excellent. Despite the jog lever issues (which when you are aware of you can take care to prevent - by pressing it just enough to complete the action) I find it a top quality machine. The clear level meter, easy access menus for main functions and the good audio quality make it a great audio companion. Concerning the line out sound, I have compared to my decks and I actually feel that the RH1 is as good a many full size machines but the lower voltage of the line out means you need to up the amplifier a bit more. This may be seen as 'lower quality' but it is just lower sound level due to the lower operating voltage inside the unit. I have made SP recordings from analogue on my JB930 and JB980 decks and also the MZ-R35 and MZ-RH1. The main difference is the interface - where the decks give you a larger VU meter spread to make the most informed settings. The actual sound between units sounds almost the same to me. The LP2 and LP4 sound quality is mainly down to what music you like and how you listen to it. Sometimes LP2 can have a harsh edge (with steel strung guitar music) but on music like piano or chillout it can sound great. If the music is fast, edgy electronica or sibilant folk, I use SP with no problems. I don't really understand Hi-MD so cannot comment on that.
  18. I have the European RH1 and after around 2 weeks of use I entered service mode and 'removed the cap'. The reason I did this is I have some very quiet recordings and the cap seems to limit the volume control rather than the output level. After doing the mod I noted the sound was a little stronger and even without the resistors bridged I got a better output level. I will say that I did note a difference before and after. I use my RH1 for listening - but only in a chair or plugged into my Hi-Fi - not for outdoor/rough use (too valuable).
  19. I do try to restrain myself and mostly the older units come from the local paper rather than eBay - at least with going to collect a unit I can try it and ask questions. Yes Jim - well spotted - that was the R50 you fixed for me! Concerning the batteries I am still on my supply of original Sony ones - I got some cheap when I worked in the trade (I could order them at 'parts' price of
  20. Well it seems that no-one remembers. I pick them up as I see them though - local paper ads, Cash Converters, items on eBay without bids. All machines under
  21. Count me in! If a pre-order is available then I will suscribe. Great idea by the way - and I admire your passion for MD and wish your project well.
  22. I remember you speaking of your troubles with the JE510 Stephen, but I don't intend to break it up - it is too nice. I was hoping that perhaps to offset the horror stories I could hear from members who had their 510 fixed and the bugs chaced away. Is it possible or do they just keep returning?
  23. I make no excuses for my like for the JE510. It may be that it was my first deck or maybe that it must have the best user interface of any MD recorder I have used - especially editing and display toggling. My unit (made in Japan) worked hard and faultlessly for 11 years, only failing due to a internal battery fault - now fixed and working perfectly thanks to Jim H. Seeing a 'barely used' JE510 for sale last week at a good price I picked it up as a spare. It was boxed and almost new, but upon getting it out I noted that the overall feel of the unit was different to mine. The tinwork was a little thinner, the front panel of a different quality of manufacture and the screws slightly burred on the tighten side. The difference? Made in Malaysia. Upon turning it on, the display immediately started to say 'no disc' 'eject' and 'toc reading' in an odd flickering action. Sometimes the machine chunters, but it did take in a disk and read it. The eject sound is different too... The differences are great enough that I would say they are machines from not the same range. So, I must say that I am not impressed by the Sony Malaysia manufacturing plant. However, now I have the machine I feel that it can be sorted with the correct approach. To me, the fault is the sensor switches as discussed, but rather than being in the wrong position I feel that there is an internal resistance fault, meaning that switches are not at 0 Ohms when depressed. Oxidised perhaps - as I have seen in some DVD tray sensor switches. So, has anyone had a Malaysia 510 and through the proper repair procedure, made it work as new? If it is a total lost cause then I will take steps, but I hope that it can be repaired properly. Thanks, Ian
  24. Clas Ohlson are now stocking 5-packs of Sony Gold Premium 80 minute discs for
  25. Thanks for the help. So, sounds like WAV is the way forward then - I'm afraid that all these abbreviations do not mean much to me - I always thought that CD quality was 'linear PCM' but as long as it works well than I am happy. Out of interest, what did the pre-recorded MD save as in SS? I can see no way of checking what the files in there are (I checked under 'properties', but no info there).
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