Perus

To minimize the space needed for the (cautious) addiction I sold every MD deck except for the 480 and kept a few portable ones instead, they are so much easier to stuff away 🙂

I recently added a JE480 as spare in case the drive dies in the JB980 🙂 Also, couldn't resist in commenting the "much beefier power" in models prior to the 980, IMHO its mostly beefier in weight and not so much else... 😎 /Per

Hi! Being a bit late to this I recently acquired the DR470 and was also a bit afraid of using it with 3-pole HPs but Sharp has planned for that and protects the output with the following resistors in-line with the R- and L- signal. R774 and R773 makes it possible to create a sort of "virtual ground" when interconnected on 3-pole HPs like below; Going to try a set of 4-pole HPs soon since that would make the Amp to work as designed - and the resistors shouldn't be needed there either in a 4-pole "only" world 😉 Edit: Would love to see the internals of this adapter though: https://aiueokblog1.blogspot.com/2015/02/sharpad-d1acsharp.html Not easy to find one these days. /Per

Many hours later I've changed my mind a bit, the RH1 wins and especially the way it handles bass - the rest (NH700, NH1, N10) are weaker in that regard IMHO. It probably helps that the in-line output capacitors are larger in the RH1 (470uF vs 220uF for NH1) and with low impedance HPs that's a plus! However, speaking of non-Sony MDs - just recently acquired a working Sharp MD-DR470 and the sound from that one is interesting and under evaluation ftm. /Per

Hi! Since I received the N10 this summer I've tried to charge it with a BCA-NWHD3 (@6V) and can confirm it doesn't charge even if indicating so. The reason is most likely due to some control pins (cradle_det?) ends up connected to GND due to different pinout compared to the HD3/NH1 which it was made for. I plan to solve this with a separate MAX1811 IC connected within the BCA-NWHD3 adapter directly to the cell which is available for the N10! /Per

All this sorted after I found a RM-MC40ELK in a bundle with a NW-HD3 to play with 🙂 /Per

The menu options from the RM-MC38EL connected gives me all the settings stated in the manual except for the "clock set". I guess it needs three rows to be able to perform that...

Apologies for the resurrection of this rather old thread but I guess the need NH1 charging still remains these days. I'm looking for the name/PN of this special NH1 connector as I don't want to pay 80 USD for an aftermarket cable with that connector. The connector looks like one of those proprietary phone ports from the past... /Per

Thanks for the suggestion, I didn't know that would work. Unfortunately I don't have the cradle nor the USB cable yet. Guess I need to find myself a USB cable. /Per

Hi! I recently managed to find a NH1 for a "reasonable" price these days but without the remote and now struggles with setting the clock with my remote from the RH1 (RM-MC38EL) - should that be possible or do I have to find a RM-MC40ELK? Thanks, /Per

Hi! This is interesting since I've also been shifting between MD/SP and Hi-SP and haven't decided yet what to use. For stationary use MD/SP is the only choice but while portable I would like to use Hi-SP, according to Sony it "should" be better; Not the whole truth I would guess. /Per

While awaiting my R909 to arrive I'm prepared to fix the overhead cable - if needed - and noticed the following way to repair it, any pros/cons with this way? /Per

Yeah, it's missing the screw hole for support but do have two additional metal pins instead which should work as support I hope. Thanks, /Per

Thinking of adding a DLT-1150 (found in a bad working optical switch) to my JE470 - that should work since it handles 3-5VCC

A bit late but better than never I guess, I prefer the sound of the NH700 even if the RH1 is nice. Could be due to the NH700 using a analogue HP-amp instead of the HD digital amp in the RH1 and also the NH900 which I don't have anymore.. /Per

My recently acquired MZ-R90 is losing most of the settings when turned off like and realized it contains a backup battery (BAT1) - does anyone know if this by any chance is the ML614? or something else? /Per

Unfortunately I couldn't do the rebuild in a LIP-4WM case since the dedicated LIP-4WM I acquired was in perfect condition (to my surprise actually) Not that common these days to find a working original battery. I'm keeping it at 40-60% and hope it lasts forever :P /Per

Having a few spares is one thing, to decide which to use is another - needs to find a cheap 480 as spare for the 980 mech - in case it breaks - not sure if that qualifies as addiction or just being cautious

Hello, (Possibly a bit late) but I do have one. Where are you located? /Per in Sweden

I kind of like the idea of all music in my pocket but still recording lots of MDs - lately I've been (hoarding?) Network flash based Walkmans with true Atrac support to extend the heritage of MD onto newer platforms (read less space consuming) /Per

Hi! Just wanted to share my (DIY) replacement for the LIP-4WM which quickly was made while awaiting a fully working LIP-4WM It might look a bit scary for some of you /Per

I’m using the JB980 for playback and analog recording while the JE470 mostly for digital recordings - a combo that works great for me. Both needed new loading belts and some cleaning but apart from that very reliable. /Per

I'm not convinced that the LS settings helps with gapless sources on newer devices which doesn't cut the stream - even briefly - between the tracks like the older devices appears to to.

I’ve also noted this “lack” of track dividers from certain CDPs and also BDPs. Also, Spotify connect and Tidal streaming with the fancy gapless technology often fails to divide the tracks on the target MD. Going to check if the Squeezebox plug-ins works better in that regard It appears that older equipment fairs better in this regard, ie they simply interrupt the digital stream between the tracks and triggers a new track on the MD. These are my finding fwiw /Per

Ok now I’m officially embarrassed and should have known better than to blame Sony for making flawed equipment ;) The reason for the clipping in the analog signal chain was due to level limitations in my pc-based measuring solution - the same signal path has been used mostly for tape deck maintenance without any issues but didn’t handle the higher output levels of the minidisc decks very well :( I noticed that while tracing the clipped signal with my oscilloscope later this evening. Sorry to waste anyone’s time and I really hope not to be remembered as the guy who posted some questionable topics as a fresh member ;) Thanks for your patience, Per