Strungup

only untill you realize what you can do with the scroll wheel, , I love my 40 elk The scroll wheel actually made the RH1 functional, the Jog on the side of the RH1 is unpredictable , and doesnt give a smooth tactile response when adjusting Rec levels, but the Scroll wheel on the 40 is actually longer and MUCH smoother so you can do very nice fade in/out on a recording live ,instead of in the editor on the computer. Then when you go to Title a disc , all the extras . smoother control on the speed control .etc . I have a Japan Model HiRes Black RM-MC35ELK that has been used twice, that is all, it just sits in the drawer, I will trade for Batteries for my MZ-R50 , you pay your shipping ,I pay mine . When I receive , I will ship , and I will send express, registered . will post a copy of the recepit for you to see.

The Problem here is he wants the unit to still be able to PLAY while it is partially disassembled , notice the aspect of the art includes the SOUND of every format. That is what makes this difficult . the MD Player need its casing to hold the mechanisms steady to play the MD's Any of them can be taken apart , they just will not play in a disassembled state.

Take your MD down to a Yamaha dealer or a Store that has these , Best buy Might...? But a higher end shop , and just listen the the RH-M5A's You want Bass....... Ragu , its in there. For a Cheap (Pricewise, Not Quality wise) pair of cans , These are mighty close to the best I have heard.

.........but not for lack of eyes. Go read this, and think .This is why I own an MD. Things like this http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/conte...ml?hpid=topnews

The Japanese unit has English Menus, I live in Japan and own the RH1, and I DONT read Japanese.

Well I am a bilge rat , so I dont mind the company of a "Bad Dog" lol My 30 footer is still sitting in Monterey bay , albeit a new owner has it ,

Booj ,....Im impressed , got a little noodle in ya huh? Yes I have a Permanent Visa , eijyuken moteru yo! By the way like the pic of the SkipperKey in your ID slot

The R50 uses an LIP-8 Lithium and an attachable Battery case , that greatly extends the life , you can find the LIP-8 replacements in the US cheap but I cant get them here in Japan (That sux) .I would sell mine but it been with me tooooo long , you get attached to stuff that just NEVER gives you a problem, it does what it does , and as long as you only ask it to do what it is capable of , it never complains. here is the battery for the R50 ( SEND ME ONE!!!!!) http://www.camera-battery.net/digital-came.../SONY/LIP-8.htm

I do a lot of biking and hiking , in Japan there is always a festival going on somewhere or an outdoor concert , they dont mind me setting up the recording gear at all, I have Shakuhachi Concerts , Koto Concerts, Taiko Drums, Jazz Festivals, all kinds of stuff. So as long as it isnt a headliner they dont mind a bit. Rather seem to enjoy the attention from a Gaijin actually. But I love Japanese food , ( it is NOT all Sushi everybody , nor is it all rice) I speak well enough to get into trouble,so they tolerate me pretty well. That is what my RH1 is for basically.

Where was that DVD pack?

I was just rubbing it in a little Booj , you asked IF it could be done , wellllll someone did it ! LOL a little high yes 300 is a lot for phantom box , Audio Technica use to make one around 50 bucks , try their page

Get the MZ-R50 instead theR37 , wasnt as good of audio qualty , batt life or functionallity, they fixed a lot of that with the R50 which was the most reliable unit Sony ever made. I have had both. The 37 just didnt cut it after I played with the R5o ( This was back when they were the NEW ones) I still have and use the R50 on a daily basis, that should tell you how reliable they were, 10 plus years and still going. I Like the seperate Line out , and you have better rec level control on the R50 as well , the mic pre in it is very nice. There was a fair amount of noise in the 37

I couldn't find those here , but I wasnt looking in the right place probably. The way this thing is wired , I can charge it from my solar panel , which is good for me. I build small panels ,6-12 volts high output , over 500 ma ,I have a 6 volt I am building today that is about 800 ma in full sun . so that will be a perfect setup.

Hey Booj ,.... here is your answer http://www.core-sound.com/2Phant/1.php

If you go to the Roland UK site (not the US site) you can download the manual for it and read the specs.

Hey everybody I just bought a Lithium Battery pack 2200 ma USB out and USB mini B input for charging , They specifically state on the package NOT to use their cable for SONY , but to use the Standard USB that came with the SONY , I plugged into it just a few minutes ago , Charge light Immediately came on and started charging . It looks cool too . 5,770 yen http://www.bolt.co.jp/bike-mount-system/sy...-system_top.asp scroll all the way down and youll see it , Ishiyoshi san tsuyaku shite kudasai ore wa ne,...nihongo yomenai sumimasen Also under a different name in the UK with apparently more juice http://proporta.com/F02/PPF02P05.php?t_id=...&t_mode=des

Since your in PA , your not too awful far from Virginia, Jackie Frost is a local there in Richmond VA , Look up her schedule and see if you cant catch her live , it will be well worth the ride , I really enjoy her music , voice , and harmonies in the group But you have to hear her do Shenendoah . a must .

Fukuda san , zen zen machigai nandesu yo , sony no USB adapter wa 5 volto , 3.7 volto janai nandesu . I have a AC power strip that has a USB out and it works fine with the Sony RH1 , It has to do with the way SONY Power supplies are wired , the sheild or casing is connected to something either direct or by capacitor , I have been fussing with this problem for four weeks straight experimenting with different AC-USB adapters , as well as 12 Volts -USB Only the SONY 12volt - USB worked , I am going to take it apart in a few days to see why, List of what I have tried so far Violetta Solar Gear Usb adapter (worked on everything but the RH1)M-Audio AC-USB for the Microtrack ( Did Not work on the RH1)Jet Audio AC-USB ( did not work on the RH1) Macbook Laptop , rear USB port ( Worked fine on the RH1) 4AA NiMd Battery pack with a DC to USB cable (Did not work) I tried different battery configurations I am trying to build a Solar panel charger ,and Battery pack for the RH1 myself , If I get a Working design I will post it here

Interesting , mine quotes 78 , it is an older model that was Japan only marked on the package , A good Idea with those Panasonics , is find a Brad point Drill bit , exactly the diameter of the capsules. or Just a hair bigger . and a pretty peice of Hardwood , Rosewood , Purple Heart ,Curly Maple , Sycamore , etc. Make the Block Long enough , to hold comfortably , with a slightly larger portion at the end. Drill two holes at an angle to each other ;(Like a Y) but just the angle you want it instead of 45 . or 90 degrees. Also with a long narrow bit , drill from end to end a Hole just big enough for the cable . The two hole for the capsule should be drilled so they meet in the middle , and the Wire hole goes right between the two , out the end that you hold. Run the wire and solder evrything , then epoxy the mic capsules into the holes that you drilled for them just pushing them slightly below the edge of the hole ( use very little epoxy you dont want to get it into the mic capsule or on the wires, just the sides of the capsules.) 1/8 of an inch below the edge of the hole will let you glue in a peice of black acoustic foam . Also If you plan on Laquering the wood or some other finish , do it before you installe the mics, and just do the outside of the wood , dont get finish in the holes , ( the epoxy wont hold if you do) Tools : A dremel with a bit to shape : Saw( japanese saw cut smoother , Woodcraft if there is one near you , or Lowes hardware,) Files If you want to get fancy with the shaping , : A drill and the appropriate bit 's : A vice to hold the wood. : Sandpaper to smooth it all out and make it look good. I have done this several times with the capsule from radio shack , But I used two halfs and shaped the inside of the handle with the dremel , so that the Capacitors , and stuff would fit in the handle , then glue the two halves together with everything in place. An example of my work .

Wish I had a copy of that. I used to play Morning Dance on Flute , sounds pretty good when you replace the Sax part with Flute.

With a S/N of 58 db I dont think it will be a quiet mic . when you get a S/N of -70 or better then you have a good quiet mic. The AT822 is S/N -78 db but you pay for that . one of the things you want to watch for . that Number tells you how far above th NOISE floor that the signal will be . So if you have a mic that is S/N 40 db the signal is onlt 40 db above the noise (Hiss) when you crank it up to get a loud recording , you will be cranking up the noise along with it .

In order for SS to delet something , wouldnt it go to the Recycle bin? or in the folder you found first Select view options ."Show hidden Files" wonder what would happen then , I am on a mac so it has been awhile since I have used my XP

Me Either. The 40elk will give you the Japanese , I dont know about the other , sorry

Set the volume on the Tape deck to about 7 /10 or 8/10 any higher you get the distortion from the headphone amp , then adjust the levels on the RH1 untill the VU meter is -2 or -3 at highest peak ( even a little lower would be ok ) You did get a manual with it didnt you ? sometimes the manuals arent written very well , but it is VERY important to chk them first, just the graphics can help you figure stuff out

The Optical in is also Standard Line input ,....DO NOT USE THE MIC input you will damage it, go to the LINE input. To set rec level , Hold down the Display/Menu button for a couple of secs, then use the jog on the side of the RH1 to scroll thru the menus, When you see "Rec Setting" push the jog in, another menu Scroll till you see Rec Level. Push the jog in , then choose.