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sfbp

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Everything posted by sfbp

  1. I agree 100% that being able to record 8 hours of HiSP is very useful. Also the facility to put 16 hours of LP2 or 32 hours of LP4 on a single disk is very useful. If your RH910 is truly sitting unused in the drawer I might take a look at it, if you wish. You can PM me.
  2. As far as I was aware, pitch control on all portables is a misnomer - it merely speeds up (or slows down) the playback whilst maintaining the pitch of the music. This is repeated in the B10 (and similar) as well as flash recorders (PCM-M10 and ICD-SX750 for example). On decks you truly get pitch control (with concomitant speed variation). Tell me I'm wrong, that the NH1 (I don't have one) is the honourable exception.
  3. That's a pretty interesting piece in any event.
  4. I recall Avrin mentioning 23/30 for HiMD units. Not sure where that came from, or how general it is. Certainly their flash recorders' LINE OUT is equivalent to 30/30. I will look at the N910 which I think has that setting, and see the level.
  5. 10 and 20 seconds for reading the disk on 2 of your machines is way too much. In addition you had outright failures on 2 more machines (the 1050 after reading most of the disk) and another one straight away.
  6. I personally would not take any SP-only-unit in my car. What I look for there is long play. I have this in the form of the MDX-66XLP which allows me 6MD and up to 30 hours without so much as handling a MD. The basic technology of the MD and headunits kept on improving (some of the later quite inexpensive units are really pretty good). So no, I don't think the market is that hot. Having said so, there's the fellow (Hudson) who wants one with amber lights for his BMW, so you might make a quick sale there. The R-37 is solid but probably surpassed by the R-50. I don't know the other two units at first hand. The Denon 1000 series seems to be very well spoken of. But from its specs it's not a pro unit (SCMS defeat) like the one (1090?) owned by guy who's asking about fixing it over in another thread. Most MD gear can be had for 80-90% off if you wait long enough. It's up to you if you carry on carrying on, join the club of addicts, or go the way of all flesh and join the IPudders. Welcome to the forums Stephen
  7. The fact you report trouble in 3 machines out of 4 (that you mentioned) is (wouldn't you think?) unrelated to shipping. I went through the same as you asking about a meter like this from an institution here. I think the specific tool is unlikely to be forthcoming, TBH - someone will have charge of it (if they have one) and it will be in regular use. Or there won't be one. Prove me wrong by all means. The fact it (your original machine) isn't dead means (just as with the machine that I ended up buying the LP-01 for) it works a lot of the time. But the reading of MD's is a servo (feedback) system, and continuing to use it after it's become iffy is precisely how to ensure it eventually burns out. Just my 3.14159p. Stephen
  8. Jim's point is that the CD adjustment is separate. In theory you could have MO (rewriteable) disks adjusted perfectly and still not be able to read a CD, AND VICE VERSA. In practice this won't happen. But the borderline behaviour tends to suggest some adjustment is needed. Obviously if you get the gear to do one, you can do them all - equally obviously the shipping on 3 machines is probably as much or more than the meter. Note, #2 (10 seconds) is clearly also borderline. Cheers S
  9. By "get it serviced" i did NOT mean the manufacturer. Not Sony, nor any other mfr wants, or even currently offers, to service MD equipment, which is considered an obsolete technology. That is one reason we folks cluster here, because we, like you, try to keep the technology alive and fresh past its sell-by date, to coin a phrase.
  10. That probably is not a CD, although I've never seen one. If you adjust the LP with no way of checking the results (other than "it works") you run a great risk of burning out the laser, destroying disks, etc etc. If I was totally desperate, that's what I might do. Sounds like you are going to have to wait to get it serviced, though.
  11. This is the meter. http://overseas.sanw...p/index.php?lp1 And here's where I bought mine from. http://www.goodluckb...uw-to-40mw.html You can try looking for the Sony one in the shape of an MD, but I spent months looking and never found one. Stephen
  12. I had a look at the manual. Page 54 looks interesting. This machine evidently dates from the mid to late 90's, so some of the sophistications of the firmware are not present yet, that make the later decks easy indeed to adjust. However the firmware menus are recognisably Sony's since this is mostly Sony technology in a Denon box. Right, Jim? To cut to the chase, the key adjustment seems to be the pot shown RV102. But without a meter, it's going to be difficult I might suggest you try to get one (a meter), as compared to the wealth of equipment you seem to have, it's a relatively small investment. This is a very nice machine (Pro, so no SCMS, as an example) and you wouldn't want to mess it up. S
  13. Don't It's pretty clear that adjustment is the thing. You've told us data from two different events that indicates what Jim and I are saying is correct. Continuing to use the machine makes it more and more likely that the laser WILL mess up somehow, or some motor may burn out trying to servo to the right part of the disk when it can't read properly. Keep the disk (if you remember) that didn't fail until the last two tracks, around. This may be a very reasonable substitute for an LP meter. Somehow we'll try and figure out how to get you to adjust it yourself. It may be as simple as one notch on the read power, and then you see if that makes the disk with the 2 tracks bad better or worse. Stephen PS here's the Hen3ry reference
  14. Believe it or not, the read adjustment of Laser Power (LP) is much more sensitive than the write adjustment. It sounds like it's simply in need of adjustment if you can write perfectly good disks. However you may need an LP meter to check it out - currently Jim doesn't have one. I do, but I'm 5000 miles away in Canada. You never answered my question about Tom Lehrer, so rather than ask it again, I will say that your name reminds me of him talking about his friend Hen3ry ("the 3 was silent, you see"). Stephen
  15. It has been reported by many that the difference on this machine is trivial. And not recommended to hack unless you are extremely determined. Maybe you should try the headphones included? Or buy a headphone amp.
  16. sfbp

    A bit odd

    Right, I only saw the first 5 pictures when I looked last time. Looks to me like the whole thing has a gold tinge because of the reflected light, so I very much doubt it.
  17. sfbp

    A bit odd

    You're right, there is no sign of the remote. Without the RM-MC40ELK this is in many ways a very expensive paperweight. Mind you a cheap remote (rm-mc38el) can be had for $10, so the problem is not terminal.
  18. Should do. From what it sounds like you should be able to get the sound track using some software, though.
  19. sfbp

    A bit odd

    Well I certainly wouldn't buy an item from someone claiming to have bought it 17 years ago! (see the listing) A bit high, but it is one of the best MD's made from POV of workmanship, made in Japan (as opposed to most that were from Malaysia). Top of the line. I recall someone on the board here claiming to have picked one (or even two) up a couple of years back for under 50 quid. So you're right, it's a bit excessive, too.
  20. After my experiments with LP4 (66kbps), I have veered to the conclusion that 132kbps is pretty good if properly mastered and reproduced. In fact the satellite radio services say "Near CD quality" when talking about 128kbps streams. Admittedly this is probably more like Atrac3+ than Atrac3, but all the same, it's not a hugely disputatious position to say that LP2 is "good enough". For a car, too.... Stephen
  21. I am not sure about philips - mine is packed away right now so I cannot check. Definitely panasonic is super fussy about that stuff. I'd be inclined to look for one of the super-generic kind. Either that or add optical out to your PC?
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