sfbp

Where the h**k did you find that? I looked and saw nothing.

I've never had anything but good luck. 100% success, your friend is just a bit timid. This (Yahoo) is literally the only place you can get a lot of this more than once in a blue moon. If you have a friend in Japan they don't need to use Buyee or anything else, they can simply bid themselves. I'm not subscribed to anything except Buyee.

OK. So I would proceed with plan A and get the PC3 and its remote in a couple of days. Meantime, sign up for one of the other services and see if they can do it. There's rinkya, and fromJapan.co.jp and quite possibly some others. They have different rates and different policies. You may get lucky. Either that or find a friend in Japan willing to do the deal. I'm intrigued by the 770 myself, I just realised its the ONLY model to publicly advertise that it supports keyboard AND PC-Link. Looking at the circuit to see if I can reverse engineer that

In point of fact, you could get that MDS-JE770 complete with PCLK. A bit more money, but it might suit you well if you want to manage with only one deck. Don't forget to order a 100V power converter. You can plug a lot of this gear into 120V but it will shorten its life something horrible.

You need the remote for sure. I'd be inclined to get something (as well) with bigger buttons for playback. But there's no rush, plenty of affordable decks for that. PS check the dimensions!

If it's not in the auction pictures it won't be there. For example there's an MDS-JE770 with pclk included and it shows you the pclk. It's not internal. It connects to the ps/2 socket on the back.

The restriction is on people posting their OWN auctions, (ab)using us thereby. You have to look on buyee.jp (it's a way, there are more ways, of bidding on Yahoo Japan auctions).

​$30 it's a complete steal, if nobody bids it up. But you'll want to grab the remote from the other auction, and you will have to get a 9V PS, no problem there, looks like the guy simply doesn't have the bits or doesn't know what they are if he has them. That would tend to argue in favour of the device being intact. You can't fall off the floor. The versatility of the PC3 is that you can use it as a D->A or A->D (and also D->D relay) as well as control it from the PC. So far it's the only one of that generation that works right with Gracenote to grab metadata of CDs (in the PC) that don't have CDTEXT already written on them.

The PCLK combines audio card (44.1, not 48) and control. it's one of the only things that automates track marks perfectly, too. And that Behringer device looks like it only sends out 48kHz signal, meaning a double re-sample to get it onto MD. Putting out 48kHz is ok for playback because the average amplifier with decent inputs re-samples to some higher frequency (96,176, 192 etc) but not so great for capture to MD. Most of the cheap USB audio cards output at 48 because they were made in the DVD era.

The D40 is probably the most useful UNLESS I can get the mod done from kbd->PC-Link. In which case these two are right up there with the most useful deck of all time, the MDS-PC3. There's even one of those available.

I dunno about that Philippe. If you can put up with getting 100V power supply then: https://buyee.jp/item/search?query=mds-jb940 https://buyee.jp/item/search?query=mds-je640

Yeah, it's started to come back to life. Remember, this is a servo-based system. You'll have to fix whatever's stopping it from seeking properly.

TE is Tracking Error. So I'd look for anything which prevents the motion of the head. If you can repeat the performance with the machine apart (be sure when you put it together again that the hold switch fits with the external cover for that hold switch) you may be able to see what the test was trying to do when the failure happens. If it's the very first thing that looks like a read operation, check the resistance of the optical pickup (OP in the jargon) to make sure it's not open-circuit. Knowing what operations if any it did correctly before you did the NVreset (911) may be helpful here. Occam's Razor, dontcha know...... one single fault can lead to many symptoms. This is the point at which you become a Real Minidisc Repairman. Look for anything restricting the operation of the lead screw that moves the head laterally. Look for bent or worn parts. Do not put oil on anything, rather tiny amounts of silicone grease. This, dried, may be what's restricting movement. I'm getting beyond my experience and competence here. Jim would know what is the most likely thing as a function of the model number, but he's been out of action vis-a-vis the discussion board. There's a guy in France, Jonathanpotato who may be able to suggest if he reads this and you would describe what you find. Don't worry about cleaning the head(s), it's almost never that.

Sure. Of that MDS-Exx range (which I have no direct experience with) it's the one I would buy.

OK so you are in the CD overall servo test. If not then you should be to get this error. You can look up what 00324 means (p.28). TE adjustment. Time to see what's mechanically wrong. It's probably something quite basic to fail CD tests. The ticking noise isn't necessarily fatal. When the head recalibrates (seek until it hits the stop) this is what you will hear, I think.

You won't find a jE940 it's JB940 The nice thing about the PCLK is it's an audio device... straight to optical of your MD. unfortunately doesn't play back optical input but that's a mod to the D40 anyway.

I think you're OK. It probably resets it to 19 every time you go there. Mine does the same. Did you see the spinning disc icon flash briefly when you pressed pause? If so then I think all the buttons you need are working just fine.

TURN OFF HOLD! On reflection and experiment I don't think that's the problem. Here's the keypresses I used direct from the initial test mode, along with what you see on the LCD display (the remote shows the same, I just went back and checked) : Flashing --> (FF) gives "000 Manual" --> (FF) gives "010 Laser" (note that + at this point will take you to "020 ResNV" so it must have worked in the past for u --> (FF) gives "011 xxxS16" (xxx meaning rotating display of numbers) --> (FF) gives "012 xxxS1A" --> (FF) gives "013 xxxS8B" --> (FF) gives "014 xxxSA5" --> (FF) gives "015 xxxS19" and we are there. On my unit (actually I don't have a 510 and my firmware is 1.6 rather than 1.2) the "19" can now be tweaked with the +/- buttons. Whether or not hold is turned on. Sorry about that. If you really have trouble with keys try page 17 which basically requires to press all the buttons in any order. Might need a remote to pass this test, I don't remember. When things are really badly messed up then the solder bridge method of entering test mode is the only way. Of course this requires the unit to be apart at least for long enough to service (pain).

I'd record from online broadcast via a sound card.with optical out.. Great results, much less problems than a double conversion IMHO. You may have a PC with optical out built in (some Macs and many HP machines IIRC). My favourite card comes from Europe (Terratec) but there are probably others more available to you in the USA. What you MAY want to do is to find a PCLK-MN10 to allow you to do the typing into the D40 using a PC (XP or XP virtual machine). They're hard to find on ebay, but you should have no trouble ordering one from Japan. The other way is to use Sonic Stage purely for titling, and do that with a USB-capable portable MZ-N<H>xxx

I'd get the MXD-D40 as it is the most versatile unit you can get easily. Mind you I may have some news about developments that would increase the power of the 640 and 940 to same or better than the MXD-D40. Avoid 5xx, they are all SP-only (I've a 630 I can let you have for a steal which is also SP-only). Turns out MDLP is worth having especially in the context of CD->MD conversion.

1. You (may) need to turn off driver signature enforcement (F8 at bootup is the way in 8.1) but I don't actually think so 2. You need to manually point the installer at the set of files that includes that driver. Use "Have Disk.." Should work fine

How did you get into service mode if the keys don't respond? Don't forget to turn off Hold!

A puzzle indeed. The drivers for this model are included with SonicStage (MS70DUSB.inf/cat) and the only actual driver file referenced is snymsico.dll which I strongly suspect is nothing more than a repository for the needed icons for this device. There's no NetMD required - and all other non-NetMD devices managed by SS don't require drivers at all. You may look in Device Manager and see if it's looking for the right driver - but you didn't put it anywhere the system could find it. It may be as simple as copying that dll file to C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32 The PID is clearly given in the file as 00E8. So perhaps the 8.1 security system is barfing on what looks to it like a hostile dll. What failure message do you get? Errors always tell us more about an unknown system than success; "it just works" is no help at all

OK. Let's assume there's not too much wrong with it and that you don't need to manually mess with the laser. However I would strongly advise fixing the power adjustment at this stage if you can, (manual mode but the chart on page 25 speeds things up a bit - you'll realise you don't need to do both). The one parameter you MUST do before any adjustment (and you should do this every time) is to set the temperature. It's in Celsius, Hex. So 19 degrees C is 13, get it? And 26 is 1A, for example. Fixing the power will solve a lot of problems with the servo system and battery charging later on. You'll need lots of patience, a voltmeter that's not too far out of whack and you can use the mains adapter on this unit (some you are supposed to use a regulated Power Supply instead of the mains adapter). It's good to have an LCD remote plugged in because sometimes the LCD controls work when the ones on the set do not, and vice versa. TAKE THE BATTERY OUT! Notice the caveats about stuff that doesn't need to be done if microprocessor version is 1.2 (I think this is the number you see when you first get into service mode, but am not 100% sure on this point). Page 27 shows the flow of the servo adjustment. After clearing byte 24 (the 911 reset) you do the CD first. If it passes the byte at 24 should change to 01 I think and you should get no "NG" indications on the display. After that you pretty much have the idea and will do the MO adjustment. If it passes, well and good. If not then you have to try and figure out what happened to the mechanism that might trigger the failure. It all works better if there's good power supply levels in the right places in the unit. Watch it and be ready to unplug everything if it goes unreasonably long at any phase. After all there may be a mechanical problem. You don't need to do this phase with the unit apart, but if and when things go wrong then it may be preferable. That raises other issues such as the door write-lock and keeping it turned on whilst you work (microswitches). Now if someone could help me figure out what just went wrong with the stocker/ejector mechanism on my MXD-D5C. The CD disks won't eject (in fact the empty trays won't even open). It made funny noises for a while and if you bumped it gently they would stop. Now it just whirs. The belts are all fine, but I think there's a sticky cog somewhere below and now it's finally disengaged. Good luck!

​Big caveat - if you rip to anything other than AAL, you probably will end up decrypting the .oma files (so they become .OMA) with the File Conversion Tool. Fail to do this, and the first time you do a system restore you may be sorry...... Happens that VLC/ffmpeg found the backdoor to this problem, but it's still good practice to store only unencrypted files on your hard disks: 1. you can use them from any computer on your network 2. transferability survives changes in Windows registry 3. Sound Forge can edit them