sfbp

TURN OFF HOLD! On reflection and experiment I don't think that's the problem. Here's the keypresses I used direct from the initial test mode, along with what you see on the LCD display (the remote shows the same, I just went back and checked) : Flashing --> (FF) gives "000 Manual" --> (FF) gives "010 Laser" (note that + at this point will take you to "020 ResNV" so it must have worked in the past for u --> (FF) gives "011 xxxS16" (xxx meaning rotating display of numbers) --> (FF) gives "012 xxxS1A" --> (FF) gives "013 xxxS8B" --> (FF) gives "014 xxxSA5" --> (FF) gives "015 xxxS19" and we are there. On my unit (actually I don't have a 510 and my firmware is 1.6 rather than 1.2) the "19" can now be tweaked with the +/- buttons. Whether or not hold is turned on. Sorry about that. If you really have trouble with keys try page 17 which basically requires to press all the buttons in any order. Might need a remote to pass this test, I don't remember. When things are really badly messed up then the solder bridge method of entering test mode is the only way. Of course this requires the unit to be apart at least for long enough to service (pain).

I'd record from online broadcast via a sound card.with optical out.. Great results, much less problems than a double conversion IMHO. You may have a PC with optical out built in (some Macs and many HP machines IIRC). My favourite card comes from Europe (Terratec) but there are probably others more available to you in the USA. What you MAY want to do is to find a PCLK-MN10 to allow you to do the typing into the D40 using a PC (XP or XP virtual machine). They're hard to find on ebay, but you should have no trouble ordering one from Japan. The other way is to use Sonic Stage purely for titling, and do that with a USB-capable portable MZ-N<H>xxx

I'd get the MXD-D40 as it is the most versatile unit you can get easily. Mind you I may have some news about developments that would increase the power of the 640 and 940 to same or better than the MXD-D40. Avoid 5xx, they are all SP-only (I've a 630 I can let you have for a steal which is also SP-only). Turns out MDLP is worth having especially in the context of CD->MD conversion.

1. You (may) need to turn off driver signature enforcement (F8 at bootup is the way in 8.1) but I don't actually think so 2. You need to manually point the installer at the set of files that includes that driver. Use "Have Disk.." Should work fine

How did you get into service mode if the keys don't respond? Don't forget to turn off Hold!

A puzzle indeed. The drivers for this model are included with SonicStage (MS70DUSB.inf/cat) and the only actual driver file referenced is snymsico.dll which I strongly suspect is nothing more than a repository for the needed icons for this device. There's no NetMD required - and all other non-NetMD devices managed by SS don't require drivers at all. You may look in Device Manager and see if it's looking for the right driver - but you didn't put it anywhere the system could find it. It may be as simple as copying that dll file to C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32 The PID is clearly given in the file as 00E8. So perhaps the 8.1 security system is barfing on what looks to it like a hostile dll. What failure message do you get? Errors always tell us more about an unknown system than success; "it just works" is no help at all

OK. Let's assume there's not too much wrong with it and that you don't need to manually mess with the laser. However I would strongly advise fixing the power adjustment at this stage if you can, (manual mode but the chart on page 25 speeds things up a bit - you'll realise you don't need to do both). The one parameter you MUST do before any adjustment (and you should do this every time) is to set the temperature. It's in Celsius, Hex. So 19 degrees C is 13, get it? And 26 is 1A, for example. Fixing the power will solve a lot of problems with the servo system and battery charging later on. You'll need lots of patience, a voltmeter that's not too far out of whack and you can use the mains adapter on this unit (some you are supposed to use a regulated Power Supply instead of the mains adapter). It's good to have an LCD remote plugged in because sometimes the LCD controls work when the ones on the set do not, and vice versa. TAKE THE BATTERY OUT! Notice the caveats about stuff that doesn't need to be done if microprocessor version is 1.2 (I think this is the number you see when you first get into service mode, but am not 100% sure on this point). Page 27 shows the flow of the servo adjustment. After clearing byte 24 (the 911 reset) you do the CD first. If it passes the byte at 24 should change to 01 I think and you should get no "NG" indications on the display. After that you pretty much have the idea and will do the MO adjustment. If it passes, well and good. If not then you have to try and figure out what happened to the mechanism that might trigger the failure. It all works better if there's good power supply levels in the right places in the unit. Watch it and be ready to unplug everything if it goes unreasonably long at any phase. After all there may be a mechanical problem. You don't need to do this phase with the unit apart, but if and when things go wrong then it may be preferable. That raises other issues such as the door write-lock and keeping it turned on whilst you work (microswitches). Now if someone could help me figure out what just went wrong with the stocker/ejector mechanism on my MXD-D5C. The CD disks won't eject (in fact the empty trays won't even open). It made funny noises for a while and if you bumped it gently they would stop. Now it just whirs. The belts are all fine, but I think there's a sticky cog somewhere below and now it's finally disengaged. Good luck!

​Big caveat - if you rip to anything other than AAL, you probably will end up decrypting the .oma files (so they become .OMA) with the File Conversion Tool. Fail to do this, and the first time you do a system restore you may be sorry...... Happens that VLC/ffmpeg found the backdoor to this problem, but it's still good practice to store only unencrypted files on your hard disks: 1. you can use them from any computer on your network 2. transferability survives changes in Windows registry 3. Sound Forge can edit them

​Using 32-bits Windows you'll be fine - until the day you try to upload using MZ-RH1. Then you will roundly curse Sony for all the (unnecessarily) different NetMD drivers that got installed, instead of updating every device to use the SAME driver. That's what the 32-bit driver in the downloads section is designed to avoid. No, it doesn't pass the signature verification step but that's no big deal as others have pointed out. But it will allow full speed upload with MZ-RH1, quite important to many many people. And just for the benefit of OP, your solution of "just letting it work" doesn't apply to most people since 90+% of everyone will be installing on 64-bit Windows. They will absolutely need the 64-bit "RH1" driver.

That's because the software downconverts to LP2 for transmission and then re-expands to SP at the device. With LP, no conversion. ergo it's faster.

The only nuisance is that you may have to go through the "unsigned driver" nonsense for each and every device and port you hook a NetMD capable device to Sonic Stage with.

Curious to know why this version of Marc's program is newer than the one we have in the downloads section. Is it improved? (hint hint, where did you get it?) ONCE AGAIN, THERE IS NO ATRAC3 (LP) MONO. There is ATRAC MONO (which may be what you mean). ATRAC3 doesn't refer to the version of ATRAC (1.0,2.0,3.0,4.0,4,5 etc) but to the MDLP codec. I'd be glad to put the file in the uploads section as generally we don't encourage people to post binary or zip files in public sections owing to technical and legal risks. But first you or someone else needs to make the right noises about this being the real thing, not some PC-destroying lookalike. Thanks for your understanding. Don't worry, I saved the file you uploaded.

Could be the slowness is at the MZ- end of things (it's likely a USB issue). If it's as slow as THAT, better to play optical out to the line/optical input and get :real: SP.

I'd be inclined to do it Kalkie's way - make it work with what you have first, since the problems if any are better understood.

Same way as any other driver that doesn't have its own install program. Go to device manager and find the Yellow Exclamation mark for the NetMD device. U(pdate driver using the INF file from that download (you may have to unzip to somewhere first). Ignore complaints about driver not being signed etc.

The NetMD driver for 64 bits?

OP said the STAND quit, not the cable. Are you suggesting it might be (only) the cable? The cable on its own does NOT supply power. A silly-but-creative thought - if one broke the plastic flap off the gizmo used to charge the NW-HD3, it (gizmo) would fit the MZ-NH1. The major requirement is that there's USB and power brought to the same connector. Sony "realised" that the power couldn't come from USB as they needed 6V to charge Li-Ion properly - a problem which the smart phone manufacturers have since solved.

Note that you don't actually get true SP transfer. You get LP2 transfer which is then "expanded" to SP after it gets to the NH1.

(Chris posted the service manual but I answered) The method works for me, today, I checked before posting. The comment you quote is, in my belief, irrelevant since it doesn't refer to this model, As you say, you did it before. My conclusion: either you didn't do it right, or one of the buttons is busted. Sorry.

They're available routinely on eBay and other auction sites. Hope this helps: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-BCA-MZNH1-Battery-Charging-stand-silver-colour-/151637377445 However it seems extremely likely that the battery died. Those are not so easy to obtain and may well cost you $100 including shipping, sigh.

Did you look here?

Take the time to read through the following thread. You want the BC700, probably. There is also a charger sold with Gold Peak (GP) 14WM-equivalents known as the Power Bank. It's quite reliable and the only caveat is: get the right one for your mains supply. Unlike many chargers there is a 240V version and a 120V version.

Thanks for the follow up. I'm just astounded that there's no cable with the device, since presumably it was functioning, and needs one to function.

Whoever buys this is going to need the Sony Unilink (BUS) cable, unless you have the model with the RF transmitter. In this case, please post a photo of the RF transmitter. Otherwise as it sits right now, the device is rather unusable (I hesitate to say useless, because it is possible to buy those pieces). And please don't double-post. Thank you.

Oops, better superglue the record/track mark button then. Or you will be accidentally blanking a LOT of disks. Write protect (on the media) won't save you here (unless my memory fails me). The best place to get a real player is on one of the Japanese sites: eg buyee.jp lets you bid on Yahoo auctions, and there are several others, each with differing policies which you may prefer. That way you don't risk your precious disks. Models to look for: MZ-EH50,-EH70,-EH930,-EH1.