sfbp

Sorry, wrong forum, have moved to Minidisc Tips and Tricks. No, the 920's master DSP chip was updated before they could add MDLP to the next series of decks... with a matching change in motherboard, too.

What kind of disk is this, and in what format? Ie is it a 1GB disk, or if not, then is it a 60/74/80 disk formatted to HiMD pattern? Regardless, you need to take the battery out (don't try to open the unit yet). Then reinsert the battery or power from wall. You should hear a noise like an electronic version of throat clearing.... this is the write protect mechanism disengaging and should allow you to remove the disk. Your disk is almost certainly not recoverable if it is as I asked in first sentence. Your machine is probably dying UNLESS you are using a 1GB disk. In this case, put that disk FOR EVER away and try some other disk(s). Sorry to be the bearer of such bad news. The NH700 is one of the most reliable HiMD and if it is failing, the fault is likely a disk that you can not recover. DONT EVEN TRY TO REFORMAT it.

Next time start a topic yourself. You didn't answer a single one of my questions. Try harder.

Different button presses present differing resistance to the unit. You'll have to find a service manual for the remote.

locked

You'd better be sure you have 100V mains. A 115-120 V supply will cause all sorts of strange things to happen. Given that your sig says Pakistan where the mains is 230V, you must be using a converter but if it's from 230 to 115 that will fry this equipment. Been there, done that.

Are you sure it's not to do with the disk itself? I suspect that the 510 doesn't know about protected tracks (from NetMD) but it's always possible that such tracks look strange. Have you: 1. used a brand new disk 2. formatted a disk with stuff on it and verified whether you can or cannot get the message "blank disc" 3. checked the offending disks in some other MD-capable device (portable or deck)? Not expecting anything helpful from answers to above questions, just probing gently to give you a few things to check. It does indeed sound like the microswitches on that model, which are notorious. One of them can easily make it so disks won't eject. I would indeed try buying something more recent, anything with Type-R or Type-S. Not worth fixing the 510, that's for sure. The powersupply is probably salvageable, so in general I would keep it for spare parts, there are many that might come in handy if some other unit fails later.

Try this one: if you check the service manual you will find it has an MDM-7A which you can drop right in to your 940. Look in the service manual of any unit you find. The ones you need will be made in 2000 or 2001, and will have this type of drive, listed on the first page of the service manual in big letters. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SONY-MDS-JE470-MINIDISC-RECORDER-in-Silver-/221909035527 Alternatively, simply hang on to it. It does PC-Link which your 940 does not. To me that PC-Link connector is more valuable than the keyboard - however beware that I am not certain it does both. So if you need a keyboard model, keep looking. The JE770 does do both keyboard and PC-Link. Note that the x80 decks have a different, more advanced unit in them, which you do NOT want. There's also this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-MDS-JE440-Mini-Disc-Player-/171975757516 However we have no idea what the auction will take it to. There are some wildly overpriced 440's listed as of today. Any 440, 470, 640, or 770 uses the same MD unit and should be fine. There are frequently bargains on these, if you watch carefully. Check the completed listings to see what they typically sell for (it's an option under Advanced Search). Stephen

Nick, you won't be able to install the laser. Jim can do it. I can do it. Your electronic friend probably WON'T be able to.

Your post doesn't make sense. 1. What is HSMI? 2. If you mean HDMI, why do you want to reset FROM HDMI, surely you want it to be set TO HDMI (I've no idea what COX means). My own Bravia has a habit of being hijacked by certain devices plugged into it whenever they are turned on; so I have the opposite problem to you. There are some settings about HDMI control which have to do with control of the TV by connected HDMI devices such as your cable STB. Good luck finding the problem. Generally this forum is not the right one for your kind of question, sorry.

IT DOESN'T DO MDLP, so in no sense is it a replacement for the 940.If you don't care about MDLP then the 920 and 930 will be better models than the 730.

Then my bad. I did urge you not to wait - of course what happened was you waited until the disk was firmly stuck in the unit. I will edit my instructions just in case.... It's not difficult to get the hinged part off. But with a disk in there, it was doubtless locking and jamming everything and you probably bust the overWRITE head (it's electrical, and is nothing to do with LIGHT, just someone back East mixing up their l's and r's in writing the manual) which is easy to do. You CANNOT use the 730, it doesn't do MDLP, and it won't fit in the 940. I thought I already pointed this out, sorry (again) if I did not in fact. Five belts will only last 20 years if you keep them in the DARK as was pointed out to me in my very last communication from Jim.

It's all in the service manuals, Freddy. They've been posted at minidisc.org for years now. There are plenty of cog wheels already in the mechanisms - I think the rubber belts were/are a good engineering solution. All CD players and DVD drives use them in some form or other. As to which drives can be transplanted, of course one can make a list. But all that is required is a $5 belt. Nick, did you omit to remove the disk before disassembly? I'm sorry, I omitted that from my instructions.

None of the x30 decks support MDLP. http://minidisc.org/part_Sony_MDS-JB730.html

Unlikely. The 920 doesn't support MDLP, but the 940 display has all kinds of stuff to do with that hardwired into the display.

You cannot put the 920 disk unit into the the 940. Sorry.

Can you take a picture?

A lot of the decks around that time use the same mechanism. However there are different cable widths (17,19,21,23 pins on the principal cable from MD to mainboard). So one must check AT LEAST that the 2 cables have the same number of pins. It has to do with the extra control lines related to M-Crew/NetMD support (remote), IIRC.

Japan. There are about 4 on Yahoo at the moment. You'll need to sign up with one of the reseller services, either Buyee or FromJapan each of which I have used, or some other service (I think rinkya is another one). And make sure you get a 100V converter for your mains voltage. Don't even think about plugging into 110 or more (Brazil is mostly 127?). Of course you may have 220 in which case you absolutely require one. You can check the specs to see if they are dual (treble?) voltage, but I am guessing not. These will be the Japanese model with 100 V supply required.

The spring is no big deal, but you may want to remove it early just to make sure it doesn't get bent out of shape (it's easy enough to bend back). The belt, on the other hand can slip quite easily and no amount of adjusting springs etc. will make any difference to the mechanism functioning properly.

Nope, no use for your hardware. It was available for quite a short time (until Sony figured out NetMD and took away many of its capabilities in the name of DRM). I can point you in the right direction, but by the time you've bought a suitable unit, as well as a PCLK-MN10, you may indeed be the right person to buy an MDS-W1. For most the latter is overkill. However the only place you will find one of THOSE is Japan, which is a whole adventure in itself. If you're serious, we can help. The other solution is to get an MZ-RH1, which (by uploading) allows you to edit all the files on the PC using Sound Forge. I have a project in hand to modify JE640/940(/?440) and MXD-D5C to work with M-Crew but it depends at present on finding the schematic for the Japanese models which actually support this facility. If anyone reading this knows enough about searching Japanese web sites to find me those Service manuals (actually find me one, and I can probably find the others) I might just get that finished. Translation of the manual is not required, just finding it - the circuit diagrams are all I need in order to modify the non-Japan models. Having said that, the easiest M-Crew-capable model to find is probably the MXD-D40.

Hmmmm, I wanted to make sure that's what you meant. I know that WAS what you said but.... If you have existing MP3's I wouldn't particularly recommend an MZ-S1. Every MP3 will get converted to ATRAC, and you can get at most (this assumes you use the optimal quality LP2 format) 162 minutes per MD. So, to do the math, 3 thousand tracks averaging 3 mins would use about 60 MDs. Probably allow 100 MDs given that lots of songs will be too long and you won't be able to fill up every disk without splitting albums etc. The conversion is tedious and will not improve the quality. Whether it will make it worse depends a lot on what bit rate your recordings are at already, I would be rather inclined to see about some other player that plays MP3 format without conversion. There are some MD recorders (all of them the so-called Hi-MD), and also some very nice flash-based devices which will play MP3s very well, There are even Sony devices that play MP3 as well as the MD format, ATRAC. My favourite of these is the NW-F886. For example this offering on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/SONY-Walkman-NW-F886-32GB-Japan/dp/B00FF087YG There are also very very nice Sony MP3 players you can buy second hand such as the NWZ-S755, probably for well under $100. Note that the NW-F886 and NWZ-F886 are not the same. The latter is an "export" model and does not play the ATRAC format which is presumably the reason you were interested in MD in the first place? Hope I've been of some help. Most of our time here is spent going on about how much better MD is than MP3 - I appear to be giving contradictory advice, but given your self-described "computer illiteracy" I wonder if it's worth all the extra trouble? Stephen

"Thousands of songs to transfer"? That sounds suspiciously like you have thousands of songs on MD and want to get them off...... the MZ-S1 will emphatically NOT do that for you. However, Sonic Stage 4.3 for the MZ-S1 works fine under Windows 7 (I presume 64-bits, only the desperate have purchased 32-bits) provided you install the driver from our downloads section.

Just one point about the post above "Sonic Stage will help you a LOT during the deleting tracks process". NEVER delete a track which is not-named when you are using Sonic Stage to do the deleting. It's a relatively well-known bug in SS. You must name every track, even if they are all labelled "X" it doesn't matter.

1. You could upload using MZ-RH1 and edit the WAV files there 2. You could try editing with M-Crew (probably works, is my guess) 3. You could buy an MDS-W1 which will copy the tracks to a new disk leaving behind the "bits". Now the bits can be combined by simply erasing the disk. All of these solutions cost money. By pushing the format to its absolute limit you have run into a problem Sony was completely unable to get around. I recall something like this in the early days of CP/M and DOS (heard of either of those?!) when the disk got full. I trashed countless floppy disks in similar manoevres. The problem (in that case) has to do with how the OS allocates new space. It's amazing that Sony does detect this condition and doesn't completely trash the disk as Digital Research and Microsoft both used to.