sfbp

try here: http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/denon/dmd-1000.shtml

I'm willing to stand corrected. But isn't there in each case either hardware or software (or both) to ensure the result you speak of? For example a CD player "knows" how to interpret the somewhat random run-in to the beginning of the music, and synchronises perfectly so that the sound comes on at just the right moment? (ie it takes some time for the digital circuit to stabilise but the player keeps the sound off during the switch-in). The inverse of this is when people complain about not hearing the beginning of tracks - which can happen when the source and the destination are only connected by optical (with no clever circuitry such as found in bookshelf or combo deck)? If I am recording from a digital source (almost always except for phono or tape transfers) then I seem to notice that the number of seconds length of the track isn't necessarily the same as printed on the sleeve. I always imagined this was because of this effect. It's been a while since I have been able to find a CD with one track split into "chapters" (or whatever the Redbook terminology was) - I thought that they stopped using that method of division a long time ago. When I record a disk with Nero, I can set the 2 second gap to 0 but they are still separate tracks. If there is gapless playback (and I don't deny that there can be) it's because some fairly complicated system ensures the data from one track starts playing exactly when the old track finishes?

Send it back! Your chance of getting the OLED replaced is just about nil. The chance of being able to service it yourself if you actually HAD a replacement OLED is about 5%, if you include the requirement that nothing else gets broken whilst getting it apart. If you need it badly for MD->PC transfers, keep it and forget about the screen. Assuming you didn't pay too much. What was the price? That will affect your decision. If you want it for actual listening, think again! Get your hands on something cheaper and more reliable. The player-only models are great, provided you have another unit to record the disks. The advantage is it's impossible to press the track mark or record key when you are out and about.

There is no "track divide information" per se. When a track divides it is because the level drops to the level (or below) specified in the deck's settings (default -50dB) specified from the Setup menu. Also you need to make sure level sync is turned on. Some of Sony's manuals say (incorrectly, I believe) that there is no level sync on digital recording. HOWEVER, some players (and the PCLK-MN10 Sony USB->Optical dongle/controller) fake out the track mark by dropping the signal altogether when they detect the signal is low enough. Generally the combo decks, and anything using the Control A1(-II) system for interconnecting Sony components (Onkyo has something similar called RiD) will use this trick of dropping the signal altogether to copy the track marks. They will override the Lsync setting I believe. You can still do it, you just have to fiddle with that level. The problem is stated succinctly: too low (large negative number) and it doesn't divide at all; too high and it gives up trying to divide because there would be too many divisions.

Please don't keep posting in "Announcements" which is intended for the administrators and such (mind you if you just had a baby we might leave it there!). I have now moved both your posts. After checking that that terminals are not corroded with green guck (wash carefully by using a swab (Qtip) with a cotton wool end you have dipped in WATER, the battery probably is simply not working. Guess what, unlike Ap**e, you don't have to throw the machine away when the battery fails! You need to revive the batteries or buy new ones. There's something called a BC-700 (and some other things like it) which may do the job. There's a microprocessor in it that will do its best to make the battery work again. The problem you will have with this particular model is connectors: http://www.amazon.ca/Crosse-Technology-BC-700-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50 It's not designed for the prismatic batteries used by the NH900. Integrating the ability to charge NiMH minidisk batteries is up to you - you have to make something that will connect to it from the BC700 (or whatever device you can buy). You may prefer to get new ones. There has been much written here (on the site) about this. Good luck, and happy hunting!

yes, that adapter is fine

I think you need the (Sony) Windows-based DLL's regardless, so unless you actually run Windows (Parallels) on it, there is no way legitimately from Sony. The Mac has/had support for ATRAC3+, but not sure what happens to that with newer versions of OSX. But not ATRAC3 and NetMD. Try VLC. It should work, provided you have a version that's less than about 2 years old. FFmpeg should be fine even older than that (requiring use of hairy command line parameters, actung vorsicht!)

This may be of interest The bands he uses are really horrid. But it may solve the problem in the very long term. The supplier is gone, but the point is to use orthodontic elastic bands!!!! Just search ebay with "orthodontic bands". eg http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=orthodontic+bands&_frs=1

Sorry, wrong forum, have moved to Minidisc Tips and Tricks. No, the 920's master DSP chip was updated before they could add MDLP to the next series of decks... with a matching change in motherboard, too.

What kind of disk is this, and in what format? Ie is it a 1GB disk, or if not, then is it a 60/74/80 disk formatted to HiMD pattern? Regardless, you need to take the battery out (don't try to open the unit yet). Then reinsert the battery or power from wall. You should hear a noise like an electronic version of throat clearing.... this is the write protect mechanism disengaging and should allow you to remove the disk. Your disk is almost certainly not recoverable if it is as I asked in first sentence. Your machine is probably dying UNLESS you are using a 1GB disk. In this case, put that disk FOR EVER away and try some other disk(s). Sorry to be the bearer of such bad news. The NH700 is one of the most reliable HiMD and if it is failing, the fault is likely a disk that you can not recover. DONT EVEN TRY TO REFORMAT it.

Next time start a topic yourself. You didn't answer a single one of my questions. Try harder.

Different button presses present differing resistance to the unit. You'll have to find a service manual for the remote.

locked

You'd better be sure you have 100V mains. A 115-120 V supply will cause all sorts of strange things to happen. Given that your sig says Pakistan where the mains is 230V, you must be using a converter but if it's from 230 to 115 that will fry this equipment. Been there, done that.

Are you sure it's not to do with the disk itself? I suspect that the 510 doesn't know about protected tracks (from NetMD) but it's always possible that such tracks look strange. Have you: 1. used a brand new disk 2. formatted a disk with stuff on it and verified whether you can or cannot get the message "blank disc" 3. checked the offending disks in some other MD-capable device (portable or deck)? Not expecting anything helpful from answers to above questions, just probing gently to give you a few things to check. It does indeed sound like the microswitches on that model, which are notorious. One of them can easily make it so disks won't eject. I would indeed try buying something more recent, anything with Type-R or Type-S. Not worth fixing the 510, that's for sure. The powersupply is probably salvageable, so in general I would keep it for spare parts, there are many that might come in handy if some other unit fails later.

Try this one: if you check the service manual you will find it has an MDM-7A which you can drop right in to your 940. Look in the service manual of any unit you find. The ones you need will be made in 2000 or 2001, and will have this type of drive, listed on the first page of the service manual in big letters. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SONY-MDS-JE470-MINIDISC-RECORDER-in-Silver-/221909035527 Alternatively, simply hang on to it. It does PC-Link which your 940 does not. To me that PC-Link connector is more valuable than the keyboard - however beware that I am not certain it does both. So if you need a keyboard model, keep looking. The JE770 does do both keyboard and PC-Link. Note that the x80 decks have a different, more advanced unit in them, which you do NOT want. There's also this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-MDS-JE440-Mini-Disc-Player-/171975757516 However we have no idea what the auction will take it to. There are some wildly overpriced 440's listed as of today. Any 440, 470, 640, or 770 uses the same MD unit and should be fine. There are frequently bargains on these, if you watch carefully. Check the completed listings to see what they typically sell for (it's an option under Advanced Search). Stephen

Nick, you won't be able to install the laser. Jim can do it. I can do it. Your electronic friend probably WON'T be able to.

Your post doesn't make sense. 1. What is HSMI? 2. If you mean HDMI, why do you want to reset FROM HDMI, surely you want it to be set TO HDMI (I've no idea what COX means). My own Bravia has a habit of being hijacked by certain devices plugged into it whenever they are turned on; so I have the opposite problem to you. There are some settings about HDMI control which have to do with control of the TV by connected HDMI devices such as your cable STB. Good luck finding the problem. Generally this forum is not the right one for your kind of question, sorry.

IT DOESN'T DO MDLP, so in no sense is it a replacement for the 940.If you don't care about MDLP then the 920 and 930 will be better models than the 730.

Then my bad. I did urge you not to wait - of course what happened was you waited until the disk was firmly stuck in the unit. I will edit my instructions just in case.... It's not difficult to get the hinged part off. But with a disk in there, it was doubtless locking and jamming everything and you probably bust the overWRITE head (it's electrical, and is nothing to do with LIGHT, just someone back East mixing up their l's and r's in writing the manual) which is easy to do. You CANNOT use the 730, it doesn't do MDLP, and it won't fit in the 940. I thought I already pointed this out, sorry (again) if I did not in fact. Five belts will only last 20 years if you keep them in the DARK as was pointed out to me in my very last communication from Jim.

It's all in the service manuals, Freddy. They've been posted at minidisc.org for years now. There are plenty of cog wheels already in the mechanisms - I think the rubber belts were/are a good engineering solution. All CD players and DVD drives use them in some form or other. As to which drives can be transplanted, of course one can make a list. But all that is required is a $5 belt. Nick, did you omit to remove the disk before disassembly? I'm sorry, I omitted that from my instructions.

None of the x30 decks support MDLP. http://minidisc.org/part_Sony_MDS-JB730.html

Unlikely. The 920 doesn't support MDLP, but the 940 display has all kinds of stuff to do with that hardwired into the display.

You cannot put the 920 disk unit into the the 940. Sorry.

Can you take a picture?