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Windows 10 installation (Net MD): 1) Download the files in description 2) Double click on "SS43_Ultimate.exe" and install the "SonicStage" program. 3) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> Personal Audio Drivers -> Sort by type -> Highlight all the ".inf" files, right click on one of them and hit install. 4) Unzip the second attached file "sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip" and open up the folder "Sony Net MD Drivers". 5) Right click "NETMD760.inf" and hit install. 6) Go to Program Files (x86) -> Sony -> SonicStage-> Right click on "Omgjbox.exe -> Click on Compatibility -> Under the Compatibility tab, click the box and select "Windows XP (Service Pack 3)" Launch SonicStage, plug in your Walkman and a "NET MD" tab should show up in Sonic Stage. If the "NET MD" tab does not show up for you, then you need to find the correct driver for the individual Microdisc player You may receive an error when starting it, just click "next" and agree" and open it up a 2nd time without problems. Learning how to use SonicStage is very easy. SS43_ULTIMATE.exe sony-net-md-drivers-win764.zip

Since the "Ultimate" 4.3 version seems to have gained quite a popularity, and appears to be less glitchy than any previous one, I decided to build a second release. This is purely a cosmetic update. What's changed from the first release: 1. Updated Registry Information Setup is used now. This doesn't affect minidisc functionality in any way, but may add support for some newer ATRAC phones (you still need to provide the respective drivers). 2. The link to Minidisc Community Forums in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. 3. Installation package extraction path is no longer saved to registry. 4. Windows Installer 2.0 distribution package is not included. The complete list of changes from the official VAIO version (including changes introduced in the first release): 1. System prerequisites from Microsoft (Windows Installer 2.0, DirectX 9.0c, Windows Media Format 9, Windows Media Format 9.5, Data Access Components 2.5) are not included. 2. OpenMG Secure Module version 5.0 with the respective Registry Information is used instead of the original patched version 4.7. 3. Sony CONNECT Store support is no longer installed. 4. SonicStage Security Update is installed automatically. 5. Latest Personal Audio Drivers for SONY devices are installed automatically. 6. The VAIO support link in the Help menu is replaced with a link to Sony Insider Forums. NOTE: If you have applied the experimental SonicStage patch 4.3.02 for Vista/Windows 7, you'll need to re-apply it after installation. Download links: SonicStage 4.3 "Ultimate" Release 2 for Windows 2000/XP/Vista (you must register at Sony Insider forums to download) Mini-mode skins Recommended PxEngine update

Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum, and let me say that I love to see the love and conversation about MiniDisc keep going on I'm popping in just to let you know that I've recently released an app for NetMD devices. I wrote the app mainly for myself, but I thought it might be useful for some of you too! So, and here's the link to use it -> https://stefano.brilli.me/webminidisc/ And here's a short demo of how app works Any feedback is welcome! Stefano

As promised in one of my previous posts, here is the trailer for 'The Field Recordist' which features some of the mini disc recorders, together with recorded tracks: UPDATED - HERE IS THE COMPLETE FILM: Best heard with headphones.

Hello! Just thought I'll report it here, if you're trying to create an account without a connection with an already existing account like Google or alike, it's simply impossible to do so, because of incorrectly loaded reCaptcha. To make this account I had to rewrite the part of the site responsible for the captcha. If anyone else is experiencing the same difficulties, here are the steps I used to create my account: Go to https://forums.sonyinsider.com/register/ In devtools, open the `head` tag and remove all the scripts that mention recaptcha Add a new script, with `src="https://www.google.com/recaptcha/api.js"` Execute the following JavaScript code: const captcha = document.querySelector("[data-ipscaptcha]"); const parent = captcha.parentElement; captcha.remove(); const newCaptcha = document.createElement("div"); parent.appendChild(newCaptcha); grecaptcha.ready(() => grecaptcha.render(newCaptcha, {sitekey: "6LdgERMTAAAAAC4kTmm7BH1laShX3teATAV_6FIY"})); After that, you should be able to click on the captcha and create your account by executing the following JS code (the submit button is broken): document.querySelector("form").submit();

Finally, my homebrew laser power meter is put together. It cost $3 worth of surface mount components, a used disc sacrificed for the shell, a piece of pcb, and some other stuff I found in the back of my drawer. Initially I tested it with my digital multimeter hooked on those test terminals, but then I found this neat little five-digit Volt-meter I bought some time ago on ebay, I think it was five bucks or so with free shipping from China. Without much fine tuning, I popped this little probe into all the decks I had at hand, and measured the laser power. From the mV readings and the nominal laser power values I calculated the mV-to-mW multipliers, and I took the average of a unit I trusted the most, a 940. Using this sole multiplier as the "calibration", I recalculated the measured mW figures and compared to the factory recommended range. Most of the other units were nicely within specification, but this 530 in question, that immediately popped out, being near 40% below the necessary values, i.e., 0,55 mW and 4,32 mW versus 0,9 mW and 7,0 mW respectively. Now, it might be that easy, but before changing anything, I want to check the IOP, to see, whether that meets the specs, and set the measured value for further adjustments. For this I will need that rig connecting to the drive, currently waiting for the special connector to arrive. So much for now, I will update the thread as I progress. Some photos attached below, just for fun.

Which sort of cases are you after? You used to be able to buy the basic hinged jewel cases from Amazon but I've not seen them on there for a few years now: If you're UK based Retro Style Media sell them: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/product/clear-minidisc-case Price per case varies depending on how many you buy. Note that the quoted price is ex VAT so you'll need to factor that in as well. They also sell the larger cases that pre-recorded discs used to come in back in the 90s: They come in a variety of colours but are a lot more expensive. You can find them here: https://www.retrostylemedia.co.uk/shop/minidisc-cases That website also has templates to download for the inserts etc. There's a bit more info (and a video) here:

Don't worry about it - I got myself a Sony LAM for testing and ended up falling in love with the whole LAM series of devices. I have 3 now, so I use that functionality regularly 😆

Over the past couple of months, I've been bitten by the MD bug again. I hadn't visited this forum in a VERY long time. I've used one of my MZ-NH900s at my work desk on almost a daily basis for 10+ years. It sits it's original cradle, powered from the AC adapter because the battery long since gave up the ghost. I have about 20 disc's (a mix of Hi-MD and standard MD My other NH900 has been broken for years after it fell out of my pocket and a disc got jammed. Was able to get the disc out by disassembling the recorder but when I all went back together the buttons were no longer responsive... So I put it in a storage box with my other MD stuff that wasn't used anymore. FF 1month ago, I was digging thru some things and came across my box MD recorders. Pulled out the NH900 and took it apart again. Long story short, it's had been returned to service! While looking for info on repair, I came across this site and an intro to Reddit MD. My interest stoked again, burned some new disc's, reorganized some of my favorites, and am trying my hand at labeling. I've also managed to buy a couple of new Hi-MD blanks and some used standard MDs. It's always fun to go thru used disc's from someone else to see what's on them 🙂 My MD arsenal consists of: MZ-R500, MZ-N707 (eprom nodded), MZ-N920, IM-DR420, MZ-NH600D, 2-MZ-NH900s, 2-MZ-RH10s (both with bad displays), and a MZ-RH910. 150ish standard MDs and 15 Hi-MDs. Most of my standard disc's are Hi-MD formated and most of the music is burned in ATRAC3plus @256k. I simply LOVE this format!

Nice to see SIF back up. Why was it down? It was quite a long time. I think many people have given up on it. That http://www.minidisc.wiki has turned out pretty nice btw. Still has a ways to go, but it has data on some devices not found anywhere else in English.

I don't have a question, just wanted to post a brief "ode" to my Sony MZ-R90 which I got, unexpectedly, as a birthday present in 2000. It transformed portable audio for me, but six short months later, my MZ-R90 was stolen by an opportunistic thief. Not long after that, I moved on to MP3 players, but just recently I have been reminiscing wistfully about that beautiful little piece of music technology. I had the black version, and I think the industrial design is really magnificent.

Back in 1997, long before MP3 was anything more than a concept, I was serving in the Air Force and frequently deployed overseas. Some guys on the squadron introduced me to a strange format for making music portable. MiniDisc. I soon got to learn that those tough little discs survived the rough-and-tumble of life in a kit-bag. We each bought portable players, and would ‘pool’ our discs together to make little music libraries, would trade discs with one another, and would copy CD’s for one another back home. No matter where we were in the world, AA batteries were easy to obtain, and just a handful of batteries would literally last weeks. It was a pocket-sized bit of luxury that we could carry with us, and I loved it. ......then, along came MP3 players and the ubiquitous ‘iPod’. Suddenly we could carry all of our music in a small space, and it seemed that the MiniDisc was dead. Within about 3 years everyone I knew had ditched the format and were literally giving away their discs and players, as were oil-rig workers, fishermen, and other locals who worked away from home for extended periods. I too, confined my MiniDisc collection to a box in the loft, and bought an iPod Classic. Fast-forward to 2005, and I deployed for a 4-month tour to Iraq. My iPod came with me, and I had the small luxury of my music collection to fall back on, OR SO I THOUGHT. By the second week I had the sickening ‘Sync Reset’ display (which of course was impossible without my PC) and in one fell swoop I lost my music. Other guys had problems with the portable power-generators cooking their wall-plug chargers, and soon quite a few of us had lost the use of our players, just when we would have appreciated them the most! Back home, and I was quickly falling out of love with my iPod. It seemed that whenever I updated my collection there would be issues with mixed/missing title-tracks and artwork. Any albums entitled ‘Greatest Hits’ would become an amalgamated mess, and whilst the battery-life seemed to get ever shorter, the demands for a ‘sync reset’ increased. The love was fading. I noticed something else, too. My listening habits were changing. My seemingly endless access to music made me a lazy listener, and I would frequently jump from album to album, track to track, and would often skip mid-way through a track. My days of listening to an album the way that the artist intended, had gone. This wasn’t music enjoyment. ....and so, by 2008 I was back to my MiniDisc, and what I revival it was! Equipment that had previously been prohibitively expensive was now dirt-cheap, and I was living the hobby like a millionaire! I soon had units for every occasion with Sony JA20ES and JA50ES decks for hifi use, numerous portable players, and a Pioneer MEH P9000 head-unit for the car. I could afford to be extravagant with discs, and my well used dozen or so swelled up to over 1,000. That was 10 years ago, and nothing much since then has changed. I still indulge in the childhood enjoyment of putting a ‘mixtape’ together in real-time, copying music from my CD’s and vinyl to Type-R SP to listen to in the car, or out walking the dog. Because space is at a premium my playlists are more carefully considered, and I listen to each track in full. My listening-habits are back to where they should be. In 20 years I can count on one hand the number of corrupted discs I’ve suffered, only ever having to re-copy one album. I keep discs and a spare player at work, in the summerhouse and in the car, and I have a physical, tangible connection with my music collection again. MiniDisc as a commercial format is dead, and I’m OK with that. It continues to live on in my household, and probably will do for years to come, maybe even for another decade or more. I continue to love the ‘forgotten format’, and those robust little discs give me everything I need.

Hi Folks, Long time no post, busy with child rearing. :-) I do stop by to read up on new posts and topics. I ran across this video on YouTube yesterday, sorry to post if everyone has already seen it but it was good to see and I wanted to share with all. Cheers!

It is currently admitted that the MZ-RH1 has the best DAC, ergo the best sound. I prefer however the sound of QS and ES Sony decks.

Hi all! So I've started a little project for myself. Minidisc never really caught on too well in canada so I won't be stmbling on any racks at the thrift shop anytime soon. I've been looking for storage solutions, haven't been a big fan of the wine box idea, generally I haven't seen anything that really caught my eye. For some reason it never dawned on me in the last year to 3D print some racks... I'm not sure why, I've been 3D printing everything else for years.... So I designed these up yesterday with some spare time. They're very rough still and very utilitarian. The larger one holds 10 discs and is meant to stack vertically (and has holes for nesting feet, and holes for screws). The smaller one to the right I haven't tested yet but I am thinking of a wall unit that makes the discs look like they are floating out of the wall. Edit wise I'm going to shrink the width by 2mm and perhaps put the discs at a slight downard angle rather than 90 degree so that if they were on an uneven surface, they'd still stay in the rack. What do you guys think? Feel free to toss any ideas my way! (also, for curiosity sake, the larger one took 8 hours to print! 3d printing is pretty cool but it's still a very slow process.) (The render) and printed

I got the drivers installed on my computer. I recommend watching this youtube video thats how i did it.

In case anyone is interested... I´ve written a review of the Sony MZ-R 50. http://marlene-d.blogspot.de/2013/07/the-legendary-sony-mz-r-50-review.html

I just wanted to say that it is nice to have some new members who are clearly MD lovers around to join in on the discussion and add new thoughts, ideas and opinions. Welcome all. :-)

Buy LIP-4 battery. First open all the cover of LIP-4. then you can small PCB. just remove the PCB using soldering iron or else. Do the same things with LIP-3 batteries. take the small PCB from LIP-3 and put to LIP-4 battery cell use soldering iron. Then cover you new battery, make sure it won't have electronics shortcuts. You'll have a new long lasting battery. It works on my MZ-N10.

I have a Sony MDS-JE780 for sale. It is silver and in mint condition as it has been hardly used. It is based in Wolverhampton so can be collected, or can be posted at additional cost. (I estimate about £7 with recorded delivery) £80 ono. Spec taken from the Sony website: Hybrid Pulse D/A Converter ATRAC DSP Type-S Long Time Recording and Playback (LP2, LP4) Pitch Control Scale Factor Edit NetMD Control A1 Keyboard Terminal 1 x Optical & 1 x Coaxial Input & 1 x Optical Output Available inblack and silverSee the link for more info.... http://www.sony.co.u...=TechnicalSpecs

MiniDisc is not useless; it's obsolete. There is a key difference. Nothing as multifaceted as a MiniDisc recorder can be said to be useless. That said, I think that even if Sony had marketed MiniDisc successfully, it would be obsolescent today because its competitors are more feature-rich. I have difficulty following some of the logic in this thread. MiniDisc and MP3 players both have shuffle functions. It's up to the user whether or not to use them, and absolutely nothing about an MP3 player compels one to do so. It SHOULD go without saying that either is just as capable of playing entire albums chronologically. You're arguing against your perceptions of MP3 users' supposed preferences, which are likely exaggerated and unfounded. The issue was the native functionality of the devices and which better suited the questioner. I still have my MiniDisc players, though I almost exclusively use my MP3 player (and never on shuffle). I may be returning to reporting soon and thus would use my MiniDisc to record, even though my MP3 player has a voice recorder. I also take out MiniDisc sometimes just for nostalgia. Whereas many of you are exalting album listening, I actually got into MiniDisc because it facilitated playlists, but now MP3 players do this better because the track need not be re-uploaded to form the playlist. Album listening has its advantages and purposes, but playlists demonstrate the user's creativity and make for great time travel. In my moments of nostalgia, I can call up playlists of the songs that defined eras I miss. It's a beautiful thing. One of you said you found MP3 players useless because they could not do all the things a MiniDisc player could. That depends on the MP3 player. (Further, it's a bogus statement because any mass storage device that plays music clearly has a twofold desirable purpose.) I actually can edit titles and move files on the go, but let's be honest: It is rare that such an act is of such pressing import that it can't wait until one gets home. My MP3 player is an Archos 5, which, like many MP3 players, has great sound quality, radio, a 250-gigabyte hard drive, a voice recorder, Wi-FI, Web radio and TV, DVR, picture display, and video. Useless because it's an MP3 player? Oh, brother. Much of this stems from your zeal to vindicate the MiniDisc, which I love. Another example is the citation of an intangible such as "cool factor," which lies in the eye of the beholder. Consider that being in the in-crowd like an Apple user can be said to be cool. Also, cool as in different just means anything opposed to the leading product, and that doesn't necessarily mean a MiniDisc. A lesser-known MP3 player can turn heads, but turning heads is not where the joy in product use lies. It is also flawed logic to assert that one likes MiniDisc because one prefers to carry around just a few albums. One can choose to listen to just a few on an MP3 player, first of all. The mere presence of all the other tracks you have neatly stored on the hard drive will not weigh heavily on the mind. Second, both MP3 players and MiniDiscs are mass storage devices. That's like one compulsive overeater defaming another because the other is even worse. That does not make you the icon of restraint; rather, you prefer a lesser example of excess. I do believe there still are real advantages to MiniDisc that relate to its native functionality. It's durable, sounds great, and records. It edges out MP3 in battery life, line-in recording, and usually voice recording. Actually, recording is where its greatest strength is now. Another strength is that different models are tailored to different uses; some have radio, some record and others have a digital amplifier, for instance. I love that my MP3 player works with Windows Media Player, which keeps track of the tracks you have and have not added to the device. Syncing automatically adds the new tracks. If I went back to MinDisc, I'd have to guess where I left off as I tried to upload all the music I have purchased since then to MiniDiscs. Also, I don't have to be bothered with SonicStage or ATRAC anymore, and I am glad. I don't have a second-generation Hi-MD player, so I can't put MP3s on them.

I have an N510 and a DN430. Both sound really good. I also have some S1's which, I know, are type R. They both sound excellent to me. I figured I'd take the (possible) slight noise quality hit and lack of remote for bombproof (especially in Orygun) performance of the S1. I can say those DN430's sound just fine. I think you can find that model with a radio too

Good to see you're keeping these old machines working and in circulation, @M1JWR. I've been using the MDS-JE500 this week and I think it's probably just a case of the older style mechanism not being quite so slick as my MDM7 decks, all of which have had belt replacements fairly recently. One pleasant consequence of using the JE500 is that I've had to dig out some of my older MDs to listen to as most of my more recent recordings have been done in LP2. It's been nice listening to a few things, especially old "mixtapes", that I hadn't heard in a while.

Thanks! I'll investigate the wiki missing instructions for the RH1, but once you connect it to the app and start selecting tracks, you have a 'Download' button instead of the normal 'Record' one (so it looks as-if it had exploits enabled out of the box). The progress dialog box that comes up is also different to the exploit one.

Not sure if you need MDLP or not but, if you do, then there's only one ES deck that's compatible: MDS-JA333ES.

Great that you've got your machine working again, @multiwirth 🙂 Gerry also sells stuff like this via the r/minidisc Reddit under the name gerry88inHongKong (in case anyone's interested but doesn't use Facebook):

Again, this must be related to the source device and/or the cabling. TOSLINK receivers on both decks going south the same way and the same time is not really probable. And I keep my theory of the faulty source selector switch. No, it is not correct. A broken RCA cable can show such a symptom. When either the middle wire or the shield is broken only, and only partially, say it still conducts electrically but the impedance is too high for the decks audio input circuits. Under a certain voltage treshold the signal will be considered as silence. Indeed, it should not. Now you are getting closer. I believe you have multiple issues here, so you need to begin solving the case step by step. At very first, I would connect the two decks via two, known good RCA cables, and try to record back and forth between the two decks, from a known good MD disc containing known good audio material. If no skips, your lasers are OK. Next step is - as Kevin already suggested above - repeate this test with two known good TOSLINK cables between the two decks (and making sure the audio material on the test disc was recorded an originally from an analogue source). If no skips, all TOSLINK cables and transmitters/receivers on both decks are OK. Then we go from there.

You wrote BIOS recognised the HDD. This gives two pieces of information: 1) you attempted to use this machine in BIOS mode. Question: is it possible to change it to UEFI mode? Question 2: If it is, after changing to UEFI, will it detect the HDD just as well (some hints here)? 2) your hdd is alive (most probably). Question: how was it originally partitioned, MBR or GPT? Question 2: Do you have a capable partition utility, that can give a reliable information about your hdd (like BootIT NG, BootICE, or similar)? For ms windows environments the hdd must have a partitioning scheme that matches the used hw-to-sw interface system, i.e., BIOS-MBR or UEFI-GPT. More questions: - is your ultimate goal to restore your VAIO to its factory original state? Or are you OK with a fully working VAIO with MS W7 on it? Regarding the factory installed copy of the W7: I trust the device has the key (COA sticker) somewhere on the machine. This should allow reinstalling W7 by other means - see more here, or here. - have you tried to perform some low level tests on this hdd, to get an idea whether or not it is in fully good shape? See for example Hard Disk Sentinel, it can read the S.M.A.R.T. information off the hdd. - do you have a way to lift this hdd from the VAIO, and connect it to another PC? (I.e., using an USB-to SATA dongle, or simply connected internally in a desktop PC.) You can run then the standard W diagnostics and see how the hdd is. Also, you can back up data from the HDD, if that is a requirement.

According to the Service Manual over on Minidisc.org, the model number for the external battery case is: K3ZZ00200038 See bottom of page 3 here: http://minidisc.org/manuals/service/panasonic/SJ-MJ88.pdf

BTW, here's the link for the new Techmoan video:

I haven't been active here in awhile but there are still 4 or 5 threads in the Feedback forum attesting to my good character. I have this Sony branded carry case for sale. I bought it new and it rarely left the house. $15 shipped.

Ok what langauges can you speak/read? What languages do you know? If you could learn/speak any langauge at all, what would it be? To start the ball rolling, I know: * English (you don't say!) * German (Well, I should know it... I did it at school for 6 years, but hardly use it that often) * Also a bit of Latin, which will come in handy once time travel has been perfected. I would love to know: * Arabic, French, Japanese, Spanish & Hindi. What do you know? And by the way, just so someone can't be smart, langauges such as HTML, Java, php, C, etc don't count, at least not for the purposes of this thread, but artifical languages such as Esperanto and Klingon do.

Snap a couple of pictures of the unit internals before you disassemble to use for reassembly.

I tried the HQRP gumstick batteries and I never had any luck with them. They all had high self discharge characteristics and developed high internal resistance pretty quickly. The only NH-14WM replacement I've used that wasn't high self discharge is the Sofirn 3000mah battery from China. Don't let the name fool you , it's no where near 3000mah. Its like 1200mah but will hold a charge. The Sofirn battery is all white in color and its still going after a year now. It's not as good as the original Sony pr Sharp gumsticks were but way better than any HQRP I've ever tried.

Well, this is all a bit embarrassing. Yesterday our youngest son logged on to the windows 7 lap top remotely. One of the first things he tried was to run the unpacked set-up file in ss/English as administrator. Sonicstage installed OK. Did the same thing on the Vista desktop and that worked OK. Am sure that this was tried a good while ago. Will now stop fiddling. However, all's well that ends well. Many thanks to inquisitor and kalkie for the many suggestions.

some kind of hi resitance you are over comming? maybe the coating on the battery to stop corrosion>

You dont need water to get rid of labels on mindiscs - lighter fluid does the job better ( assuming you can get it where you are). just put a little on the label and cover it up to stop evaporation and leave it a few minutes. it will soften the glue on most labels, u can then use a tissue with some to remove any remaining glue

I'm sorry but they are really hard to get. Sometimes you can get lucky by regularly checking on eBay or similar. They were never widely available as my Sony shop only ever carried one twin pack at an expensive £14.99. What supried me is the speed at which the blank disks were withdrawn from sale - under a year from the end of MZ-RH1 production. I don't know why that was.

Good evening, I was wondering if someone could please upload or provide a link to the voidmp3fm program? All links I have tried are dead. Much thanks

If you want to set your Creative card to the only format the MD stores in, set it to 24 bit and 44.1 kHz. It cannot ever work with 96 kHz. Not ever. 48 kHz are bad too, because your MD recorder has to resample it to 44.1 kHz. Save that work for your PC, that one is much better at it. Recording in 44.1 kHz will only work if you disable any DSP inside your card. Otherwise, everything will be resampled from 44.1 to 48 and back to 44.1. This process (as performed by the Creative) will add distortions so it´s important to switch all DSPs off. Why 24 bit? Because your MD recorder is capable of using this bit-depth to gain a sonic advantage. Disadvantage? None. The suggestion from PhilippeC to use ReplayGain is very reasonable, that way you can encode all your music with correct RMS levels (I´d recommend 'Album' mode).

I'm just curious, when doing CD -> MD optical recordings, which will produce better MD recordings: portable MD Type-R recorder or MD home deck Type-R recorder? I've heard the using MD decks can produce better recordings because of the available power for computing/encoding/compressing. If a bit is a bit (0 or 1), wouldn't the sound quality be the same no mattery which Type-R recorder you use? Thanks.

That went fast! Glad you were able to sell it so quickly. I do appreciate when folks offer their items up here before turning to eBay, it;s nice to have first shot at some cool equipment.

I am looking for a source for the replacement, don't care if it's OEM like this one http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_lip3wmb.htm Just need one for under the $38.40 + S&H that Sony Quoted me today by phone and email! Surely someone here has a source for them here in the united States? Thanks, Tom lifesystems@cox.net me

As I am recording right now some MDs from the digital out of my my computer, I cannot use the sound. Anyway that astounding from here... Let us see tomorrow !

Welcome to the forums! An offline installer is here: http://forums.sonyinsider.com/index.php?showtopic=24405

I don't think you are going to get sound going FROM the TV to the receiver via HDMI. 1. You can get some RCA phono cable and make a normal analog input and select that when you want to watch TV. 2. You can get an optical cable (or coax if the DH700 does that) and assign a digital input to be connected when you press TV on the receiver. At least (1) that's what I would do on my Onkyo receiver. I did it because my family sometimes get lazy and doesn't want to figure out how to make the cable box work. My TV doesn't have digital out, it's way too old. If the video signal were coming from something else and going via the receiver to the TV as a video signal (whether HDMI or something else) then your sound would go to the speakers (since they are connected to the receiver?). But if your only source of picture is the RF in to the TV, this second arrangement (which I use) wouldn't work.

I believe that the Onkyo decks are still being built as well. Bob

Line out is not supposed to sound nice, it is supposed to be used for transferring sound between machines. There is no equalisation or any type of effect for that matter. The idea is that the machine which your line out is connected to will be able to do exactly that, and if you send it a signal which has been run through a weird EQ setting, then there is no way it will be able to play the original flat sound. Just a question though - why do you have both Bass and Treble turned all the way up? If I remember rightly from one of my older Sony Walkmen, then that would have exactly the same effect as turning up the volume. Why not just turn the volume up and use the EQ for something a bit more useful (like making it sound better )