sfbp

That's the largest commonly available size for orthodontic bands (I just went back to the links that I originally posted). However the use of them comes with no warranty or promises from me. I have NOT tried this... I purchased my replacements from someone who sold me the "correct" O-rings. YMMV, as they say, caveat emptor. I was hoping someone who'd actually done this might jump in and reassure you, but alas..... Note that such bands tend to vary a bit within the bag - you may want to sort through and pick out a good one (you've plenty of choice!).

1. We need to know which version of Windows (64 or 32). I am assuming Windows 10. This might be better in its own thread... we shall see 2. We need to know what kind of disk you are using: Legacy (NetMD), Legacy (reformatted to HiMD) or HiMD (1GB - only HiMD format possible). 3. You don't need to convert **some** files. Please give us detailed information about what you see and what you are trying to do. For example: "it tried to transfer LP2 files and appeared to manage the first one, then hung up saying "converting files"...... 4. The files you are trying to convert... what are they? Originally MP3, originally recorded on MD or did you get them from somewhere else? That's enough questions for now.... there will be more.

Note that the 760 driver only applies to Windows 64. There are lots of installations of Windows 10-32 out there and they either need the 32-bit omnibus driver (better if you plan to run multiple devices when one of them is the MZ-RH1/M200) or the original 32 bit drivers which are part of the existing SS ultimate installation. I wish i knew enough to duplicate Avrin's packaging to include the newer drivers, but I don't. Tant pis.

If you want the songs to play in the right order you may well WANT to keep the numbering. Most modern devices will only sort by name, unlike the original MD scheme where ordering them in the display will make them play as you see them.

Check the "disc mode" of the M200. If it's set to Hi-MD you may see this kind of weird behaviour. If you leave sounds enabled (especially USB up/down) then you will hear the USB interface go down and up again if the type of disk you are inserting does not match the disc mode.

I think OP is talking about a change in Windows behaviour. Not 100% sure.

Do an alignment. You need: a. a prerecorded disk b. a recorded (by you) disk - should be full of music Do the section they call Overall Adjustment Mode.

Ahhhhhhhh. So playback mechanism for prerecorded disk is completely different. More like a CD. It's perfectly possible to have an MD player which plays one but not the other. Did you mean an MD or a CD?

I can find 5.2 I think...... do you want it?

Make sure the connections look the same. I'm still rushed off my feet and haven't properly analysed the problem.

exactly

Have you looked at the connections in detail? If they ARE the same (I haven't had time to analyse) then the only possible thing would be if there's a firmware in the big chip. But I have a feeling there isn't. There's not that much difference between 940 and 333ES, honestly. The BD board is likely identical with the same ATRAC/DSP chip (CXD-2662). The tray is definitely one distinguishing feature, and possibly beefed up Power supply and noise suppression. Jim had scathing words about the difference between 780 and 980QS, for example. Just about nothing except a couple of brass screws, he said.

Hmm.... looks rather similar to the AU board for a JB-940. Either you can pinch the components, or maybe make the whole thing work. Often there are busted JB940s on Yahoo Japan auctions, look in Buyee and FromJapan if I am right.

Service menu

http://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/j468269452 or https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/en/auction/yahoo/input/j468269452/lgk-link_search

The driver is non-Windows-release specific. You need the 32-bit or the 64-bit version depending on your Windows system. Both are here on the site. In addition you will have to disable Windows checking signing (certification) of the driver for long enough to install it (and then can be turned back on again). Good luck

You HAVE to replace that overwrite circuit either by unbreaking the cable or by replacing the whole laser assembly. The latter will be expen$ive. And then you have to align it which takes a laser power meter to be sure you didn't waste your money (it might work but then blow because turned up too much). Trust me, the service manual won't help much (other than to see how it fits together). Unfortunately the MDM-7SC is not common. However I have a strong suspicion it may be able to be subbed by the MDM-7B if you don't care about the remote (serial) control functions. So you could buy any one of a number of decks (you will have to go and look in all the service manuals) and swap the drive in. I think the SCMS is done in the main board, but I am not 100% sure of that, in which case you wouldn't be crippling the deck by putting a SCMS-limited drive in it (if there were such a thing). But best is to fix the signal path for the OW head. (Note that some manuals erroneously have overLight instead of the correct overWrite). Note added; Someone has a large number of MDM-7Bs on the Bay for under $10 each, the shipping will cost more than the device. NOTE EVERYONE, THIS DRIVE IS VERY USEFUL! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Ersatzteile-Mini-Disc-Mechanismus-mdm-7b4m/232607297561 (I think it's possible "SC" refers to SCMS defeat rather than Serial Control, so since the whole purpose for most people owning the deck is the SCMS defeat, my comment above would be right and you'd be stuck with a "vanilla" MD unit that emitted/respected SCMS). Another note: I think the busted cable is an integral part of the OW head, HR901 in all models. 1-500-670-12. But no listings on eBay, sadly.

Overwrite head will be open circuit. Most likely a cracked cable. You can test with a multimeter (volt/ohm/amp) and it is even possible to fix the busted spot but you need incredibly good eyesight and incredibly fine soldering skills. Don't even think about trying to align machine. The recording laser power is not that sensitive, whereas the read power is very sensitive. If it reads, it's likely just fine. The symptom you are seeing is absolutely characteristic for a dead overwrite head.

(Up in mid-night so won't be long or even necessarily accurate - you've seen my answers under such condition before!) It's useful because I can: a. edit out pops, clicks and background noise as well as split accurately without wearing out buttons on some poor MD unit that needs to survive b. transform in lots of ways (mix channels etc), fade in and out, increase volume digitally etc (all the things one does in cooledit/audacity like normalize or balance) c. change formats (eg WAV->MP3) by using SaveAs. I have no experience with WMA (except once) or Flac (also once when I received a set of files) d. Edit ATRAC (which no other tool can do). Note that much of the metadata in this case is almost the same as MP3 with "ID" replaced by "EA" in the header if I remember it right, ie EA3 instead of ID3. So very easy for *that* metadata to be transformed. Please note, the batch processing referred to does not come in the free (or $30) version of SF. For that you need Sound Forge Pro which costed $500 or so. Not even sure it's still available legitimately, and I have never used it. Studio Pro and Studio Platinum do NOT contain SF Pro - but only the regular Sound Forge (9 or 10). However it's not difficult to edit 30 files (a whole CD or MD full) as the editor is very efficient on use of RAM, using virtual memory very nicely. SP was carefully designed by Sony not to be a PCdisk-based format. We think maybe part of their agreement with Dolby, but there may be some technical reason too. So whilst Adrian and his gang may be able to create the SP format, there are no software tools to manipulate it available, at least outside Sony Corporation. One may as well just buy an MDS-W1 or Denon diskduplicator. SP also predates the IDEA of metadata, it's just raw data (as is PCM); whereas MDLP and A3+ (aka ATRAC-X) have metadata built into the file format.

Sound Forge (by Sony) Happy Christmas / Joyeux Noel

I've never heard of having to REDUCE the gain. I am at this moment recording a source (don't ask) and have to add 6dB to it routinely. Maybe you can reduce the gain BEFORE it gets to the club mixer's output stage? I had to convert a recording by multiplying by 32 (you do what you can with what you got) recently. As long as it's not PCM, it's fine since ATRAC is logarithmic and 24 bit PCM has almost infinite "headroom".

Unfortunately, yes. Exceptions are: a. all Hi-MD formats b. all MDLP formats (ie everything except SP). MD->PC gets converted to Hi-SP (I think: but someone's going to tell me that under the covers it uses PCM and the PCM->WAV happens at the PC). PC->MD gets converted to LP2 and padded when it gets to the MD. We refer to this as "Fake SP". Sorry.

Why not go look? I don't know any useful model numbers.....

However, it's trivial to put a different model in (either change the link, or search in English - may require a change on the site) to look for that. There's LOTS of stuff - if you recall there were about 6 MDS-W1 auctions. Same method of searching.

The vast majority (especially decks and older MDs) tend to have mostly English interfaces anyway. Go take a look at Buyee. For example eh-70, probably the most durable HiMD ever made: https://buyee.jp/item/search/query/mz-eh70?translationType=1