sfbp
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Everything posted by sfbp
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That might be a reason to adjust the charging/sensing circuits.
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Three small letters: V L C. http://videolan.org/vlc/index.html
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Look in the service manuals... should be all there,
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Right now I am smarting from my failure to revive even a LIP-4WM with Jimma's great instructions. Maybe when my ego is recovered, I'll have a go. I got my spudging set though
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Dear Jimma, It is with a heavy heart that I post this. Either I am a complete klutz or something is wrong. I bought 4 of these (what the heck!?) and proceeded to take apart one obviously dead LIP-4WM. No pictures, I am way too embarrassed to show you my handiwork. Couple of comments: 1. The picture you showed has batteries with 350mAh, I received 280mAh - I don't think this is a big deal but others might like to make a stink depending on how it is advertised 2. I used magic tape after all - turns out it's thinner. 3. The problem appears to be that although the terminals are clearly connected (and I tested the connected terminals for +3.8 volts or so), there is no voltage at the exterior contacts which will touch the contacts in the MD. I have no idea what happened, whether I blew up the little circuit board or what... but it doesn't work. Ideas would be much appreciated, but I think this one is past repair. Perhaps your kind advice will prevent someone else from wrecking the project for themself. At the moment I am not sure if I have any more nearly-dead batteries, so I am holding off repeating the experience until I can get a glimmer of WHY this has happened. Could it be that what goes wrong with these batteries is actually the circuit board? Happy New Year Stephen PS update: I received 3x 280, 1x 350, grrrrrrr
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<f8> (on boot), assuming you have a normal keyboard. Or there's some mechanism to do with restart, something like coming back in maintenance mode. Sorry, I don't know much about W10. And please don't use the word "just". FWIW, this is a lot of work to enable what has been described by one of our experts (who at one point owned over 150 different players) as almost the worst sound he had ever encountered. Maybe you should consider a new device, they are really quite inexpensive if you look online for second hand stuff.
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You might have to enable the display of non-present devices and non-installed drivers, too. This requires two entries in the SYSTEM Environment, and will show you a whole bunch of greyed-out (not connected) device drivers. If none of them is NetMD, I bet you quickly figure out which of them is preventing the N505 from being installed. If that's waaay too condensed, no worries, we can guide you through.
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Forgive me but I always smell a rat when someone uses the word "just" or "simply". There's nothing simple about it. Usually. 1. Your installation will have likely defaulted to installing the 32 bit drivers 2. You didn't tell us but likely you are running 64-bit Windows. 3. You say you have drivers ready but you don't tell us which ones. You likely need a separate driver from the downloads section either 32 or 64 bit. 4. You need to have a battery in the N505. Generally NetMD machines cannot use the power of the USB though there are some exceptions. This is not one. 5. It may help to have a disk in the unit Finally you probably have to go to device manager and upgrade the drivers which may well be installed already as either "unknown" or not working (yellow exclamation). Also you don't mention whether this is "real" Windows, eg on Mac or Wine or VMWare. All sorts of other things can interfere with communicating with the minidisk, too. So it's not that simple.
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The only problem might be if the gear is partially stripped. You'd need the right lubricant and hopefully you have some experience working with tiny equipment. We had an expert in such things but he doesn't come by here any more. Prepare yourself for an adventure ... we will try to help. The best means to learn stuff like this is to compare with a working unit, which in some respects defeats the point. But nevertheless may be your best strategy. They are not hard to find. -
One of the gears needs lubricating or replacing. The silence is because the music is buffered (read into memory ahead of time).
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Nah, I have several LIP-8's and I'm sure at least one that's not in the greatest shape.
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Look for the file CMT-333NT.zip. Same model, effectively. Here:
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Hmm,,, if you can confirm the file NWUS.cat/inf/sys works under XP I can add this to the omnibus 64-bit driver so you can run under 64-bit Windows.
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That generation (the 510 also but NOT the 520) are known for this. Fixing it is iffy. Better to get a cheap deck off the Bay and save this one for parts.
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Sounds like you need a "NetMD driver" for it since that's the only thing I know of that transmits ATRAC3. Can someone tell me the PID and VID? Then I can work on it. I don't think they moved to transmitting via regular block drivers until Hi-MD, which this clearly predates. If OP (ie you) doesn't know enough to find them out (well, the PID because we know the VID is Sony) someone can find it. Maybe in some install file that I cannot currently lay my hands on. But the 64-bit driver install file needs to be modified, and I can do it for you. Stay tuned.
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RXG is one of the only disks I have consistently noticed problems with. Most of TDK's are brilliant. Maybe it's something to do with the transparent top.
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Stand by for much spudging! (For the ancient of those of you reading, I am irresistibly led to suppose that this tool originated in Much-Spudging-In-The-Marsh, with apologies to Kenneth Horne and the BBC). Will be a week before I have it though, With your skills you will probably have figured out a solution by then
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I don't have an LIP-12 but it looks to me like a bigger version of the LIP-8. This makes sense if you imagine that later models required less power.
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I did some checking, heheh. I think you have joined too many times with eerily similar credentials. I'm guessing that something at your end is mixing them up via cookies. Or (just possibly) our board (out of my hands and I don't have definite data to pass on) the login system mixes up emails and names. I recall something of the sort that happened to me. If you would like me to merge what I THINK are your various contributing member names (after checking with you first), I would predict your life will become easier.
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I already posted this link, here it is again: http://www.powerexpert.co.uk/digital-camera-battery/Sony/LIP-8.html
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I wouldn't tape it. Well done on the button by the way - those models were rather simpler in design, and you know what they say.... and there's less to go wrong. The microswitches can jam.However the whole system for keeping your MDs intact depends on it knowing when/when not inserted.You can try an air can, or conceivably some contact cleaner if you are careful and get rid of everything afterwards. Jim would know, but (sad refrain) he has not been heard of in months.
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I think you can find a used or busted MD (look in Ebay "for repair or parts only") for under $20 which would do for ever and ever. Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-MZ-R700-Recording-MD-Walkman-Mini-Disc-for-parts-repair-/351618299462 Well done to find service mode, in any event.
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This might have a clue in it: https://www.mail-archive.com/md-l@amulation.com/msg06477.html
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No you shouldn't need the solder bridge method. There's nearly always a key sequence. However R30 is sorta early. I think your best shot is to buy a deck. Another way is to buy a dead portable with the overwrite head broken (or deliberately break one). These blank the TOC VERY VERY EASILY!!!!!
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TOC cloning allows the TOC to be replaced. I'm not sure which devices allow it... most decks do, it's a combination of entering service mode and pulling the power.